Africord

On 10/26/2017 at 9:00 AM, Dutchy said:

Aaaaaaaaaaand..... Back in the books....

 

 

Passed exam 1&2 this month, final next week.... 

 

This is one I have never held.  I worked in internal audit back in the 90's. I let my CISA go in 2003. Just holding an inactive CPA license.  Wish you the best on the final!

Just picked the Purolator Pure One PL14610 and discovered they are no longer putting the rough yellow coat on the outside anymore which made it easy to install. It now looks like this:

 

 

Have the Walmart or Mobil options picked any outside texture to assist with installation?  I ended up using a filter wrench to get it tight and put a slight dent in the filter. I'd like to avoid that situation.  I've had filters leak in the past because they weren't tight.

 

Are these any good?  http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-end-cap-oil-filter-wrenches-94096.html

Okay, my 02 runs HEL lines, EBC HH pads front and Honda stock pad rear, stock forks and shock, and I can stop on a dime and have great feel. My master cylinders and calipers have 50,000 miles on them, and I haven't rebuilt them. Given that the bike only had 20,000 miles on it when I got it, I suspect they have never been rebuilt.

I'm smelling some sort of hydraulic problem, and given everything you have done, I would bleed the brakes, again. I have no idea of your skill set, but I passed on installing new lines (as you probably know, there are 9 including the clutch), and handed it off to a private shop because I suspected I would never get the lines bled correctly.

I tried for a trip I'm taking in July and ended up with a waypoint that was unexpected and not on the route. For example, my route goes from Lincoln, NE to Fremont, NE and goes up to South Sioux City all on US Highway 77. At no point can you reach Omaha on this route. Also have a reference to Baker-Annapolis, instead of Minneapolis when approaching the Minneapolis-St.Paul, MN area. The final destination for this route is International Falls, MN for the CMA "No Boarders" Rally.

A quick check around the interwebs seems to indicate that these forks would fit better with Ducati 1098s, or older R1 triples. Looks like a lot of work to me.

Look up "triangle mod" in the forums. Your 6th gen connects its linkage via an 2 isosceles triangle shaped piece of metal. If you rotate that 60 degrees, you will get a 3/4 inch drop without changing out the bone. Also, if you need a major drop, you should look at these guys: http://www.sigmacycle.com/. I used the triangle mod and ordered their sidestand to address the need for a shorter stand. I'm still able to put it up on the center stand at 3/4 inch down. I doubt that you could still get it on the center stand with a larger drop.

Not yet. But I am interested in the resolution of this question. Have you checked with Knight Designs? http://www.knightdesignllc.com/

It occurs to me that they would be able to set you up with lower pegs that would give more heel room.

I've seen other's use a GP style exhaust, but to me, the 6th gen tail doesn't look right without the undertail mufflers.

It is amazing what a few small tweaks mean in the context improving ergos. I have the GenMar risers, Buell Ulysses pegs, and a Rick Mayer seat. My endurance went from about 300 miles in a day to 500 miles. As always, YMMV.

Not necessarily. If the internal diameter of the end of the Helibar and Convertibar are the same. The Throttlemeister weight would do the job of damping the bar even if you don't use the cruise control feature. But as a big fan of the Throttlemeister, I don't know why you wouldn't. I don't see a separate Throttlemeister listing for the Convertibars. The current Helibars (post-2004) use the same Throttlemeister as stock Honda bars.

Actually, they are claiming that the synthetic line traps more dirt than the PureOne. 27 grams vs. 13 grams. They are claiming that the synthetic filter is a 10,000 mile filter. (Not that I plan to try that!) Price was identical to the PureOne, $5 at Advance Auto Parts.

A new wrinkle. Purolator has brought a new "synthetic filter" for use with synthetic oil. The part number for the 3.25 inch filter is real similar to the Purolator One, PLS14610. I found out because my local parts store was out of the PL14610, which also fits my 2008 Accord EX (4 cyl). Any thoughts on the technology? I didn't a reason to use or not use the filter as I only use synthetic oil on my 6th gen. Here's the link to the marketing on it. http://www.purolatorautofilters.com/products/oil_filters/Pages/SyntheticOilFilters.aspx

tried to speak to Honda reps at Int MC show in NYC this weekend...they were extremely unreceptive, bordering on rude to me they did not want to hear about it or even acknowledge the problem... total BS !!! i am very disappointed in Honda ...makes me wonder if the have any interest at all any more in selling motorcycles.....i have owned a Honda since 1971, didn't seem to phase them....spent some time speaking to Dante at the Bazzaz booth with much better results....still don't think i should have to spend $1000 to make a $16,000 bike run correctly Honda acted like i was making this stuff up !!!!!

Their reaction is classic. No business wants their "laundry" aired in public at an event where they are promoting their product. While I appreciate your passion, Honda's reaction is pretty normal. Honda has often been slow to react to problems. I also own a 2008 Accord and a class action suit was filed and won to ensure that repairs to my rear brakes due to a dragging pad problem were covered by Honda. I think Honda would have resolved it through a recall program eventually, but the suit forced their hand.

I'm surprised about all the responses of folks using synthetic. I thought the manual said not to use oil with certain kind of friction additives or something, and every synthetic I've seen has them in the oil?

The issue is the wet clutch. Friction reducers and a device that needs friction can be a bad combination!

There are multiple pauses causes to wrist pain. Two I would check into are grip angle and holding on too hard. Check the alignment angle of your forearm and hand. If there is a twist here as you line up on the bike, I can see that would be cause for pain, particularly if you are "locking out" your elbows. I always try to maintain some bend in the elbow to grant relief to my wrists. I also use a Throttlemeister to allow me to let go of the right grip and flex the wrist and hand on long runs. I don't have my IBA, but I do have a couple of 500 mile days to my credit. Hope this helps.

Another wrist-pain sufferer here, looking for relief. I've gotten control of my body position for the most part, relying more on my lower back muscles to keep my weight off the wrists, and that's helped some. Plus, I just test rode an R6 the other day and had no pain at all, so I'm tentatively ruling out body-position as the culprit.

I tried out a crampbuster for the past few weeks. That's helped some on the slab, but the thing moves around alot and tends to get in the way around town. I'm ordering a set of grip puppies, and have some hope that those will help, too.

Is there any way to install weaker throttle / return springs? I have it in my head that the grip is just too difficult to twist/hold.

I've got the Honda accessory heated grips. They are bigger, and harder, and since I added the Throttlemeister, just about perfect.

That's a pretty radical lowering for that bike. I used the infamous "triangle mod" to drop mine approximately 1". Here's what I've learned:

1. You will need to adjust the fork tubes up the triples to level the bike.

2. You will want to adjust spring preload on the forks to set up proper sag.

3. You will want to increase the shock preload to restore proper sag and get the rear shock function correctly.

4. Lowering the bike even the small amount I did makes using the center stand a lot more work, probably impossible without modding it on a 3 in drop.

5. You will need a shortened side stand. Mine came from http://www.sigmacycle.com/Default.aspx They don't offer one for a 3 in drop. Their kit is designed to produce a 1.5 in drop.

6. Have your shortened stand in hand when you start the lowering project. (Don't ask.)

There are posts on VFRD on all of these issues and strong opinions for and against lowering.

I'll bite. Is there a reason you didn't want to use a HA-8098 K&N in your bike? It appears from your sig you are riding a 6th gen.

No, I couldn't find them at $35 for the pair either. Mine came from the local HD dealer. I haven't mounted them yet, so thanks for the heads up. I have a new Dremel I'm itching to break in. Sounds like this is the project!