Switchblade

I am a 2000-3000 miles oil change guy. New Honda filter with T6 oil.

It just cheap insurance .

T6 synthetic is 5w-40, the T is 15w-40 like the report specifies...

Oops's your that's dino..

The Doc is right... Rotella T6 5w-40 is full synthetic, the Rotella T 15w-40 is dino diesel engine oil.

What XRCRIS posted was his report from a sample of Rotella T 15w-40 dino oil

That is really kind of my point related to 3k oil changes in general. A huge waste of money and an Excellant Marketing Champaign by the oil Co's. Let's just focus on the Honda VFR here.

Honda Engineer's recomended 8k oil change intervals with Dino oil and if you follow any oil test reports Honda Branded Oil usually rates towards the bottom of quality list in most any oil comparo test.

Now let me put my simple mind to this issue starting only with a few facts first:

1- Honda produces high quality products

2- Honda engineers design those products

3- Honda engineers recommend 8k dino oil change intervals

4- Honda dino oil test in bottom half of quality testing(see about any test results)

5- Full Syn oil consistently test out better in all catigories vs dino oil ( to simplify only use info from top 5 Full Syn and top 5 dino oil from testing) btw no Honda oil on either list,

Now let me start some simple conjecture:

Honda engineers are comfy running their (lower quality) Branded dino at 8 k intervals, so by using a better quality dino oil like even the Rotella T mentioned here these same Honda engineers should easily approve 9k intervals using the better oil. Yes?

Full Syn oil consistently runs longer intervals while performing as good or more often better then similar dino's. Yes?

Now add together Honda engineered recommended 8k intervals, higher quality oil and now make it a high quality full syn oil and what intervals would you think those Honda engineers would recommend.

Just by using my simple mind, these 5 simple facts that are laided out above and the slightest amount of realistic conjecture I have some serious backing to be very comfortable changing my oil with a top 5 rated dino oil at 8k intervals.

I run Mobil 1 and am very happy with 6-8k intervals and have hit 10k once, wish I would have tested it!!!

All intervals can be adjusted up or down based on other factors like how, where, temps, how many 4th gear wheelies, etc. but in general

I consider any sub 5k interval severe over indulgence.

Peace Out and Save the Dinosaurs!

PS I'm Old and Slow but still run the piss out of my bikes and I've put over 105,000 miles on this one so far.

BR

Dude... it was 75 F in Nashville today... what are you doing on a Winter blues oil thread???

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Recovering from shoulder surgery. :-(

Darn .

I blame guys like you and Kimbell.

Doc said I over rotated my shoulder trying to achieve 150% throttle position attempting to ride with you guys!

T6 synthetic is 5w-40, the T is 15w-40 like the report specifies...

Oops's your that's dino..

The Doc is right... Rotella T6 5w-40 is full synthetic, the Rotella T 15w-40 is dino diesel engine oil.

What XRCRIS posted was his report from a sample of Rotella T 15w-40 dino oil

That is really kind of my point related to 3k oil changes in general. A huge waste of money and an Excellant Marketing Champaign by the oil Co's. Let's just focus on the Honda VFR here.

Honda Engineer's recomended 8k oil change intervals with Dino oil and if you follow any oil test reports Honda Branded Oil usually rates towards the bottom of quality list in most any oil comparo test.

Now let me put my simple mind to this issue starting only with a few facts first:

1- Honda produces high quality products

2- Honda engineers design those products

3- Honda engineers recommend 8k dino oil change intervals

4- Honda dino oil test in bottom half of quality testing(see about any test results)

5- Full Syn oil consistently test out better in all catigories vs dino oil ( to simplify only use info from top 5 Full Syn and top 5 dino oil from testing) btw no Honda oil on either list,

Now let me start some simple conjecture:

Honda engineers are comfy running their (lower quality) Branded dino at 8 k intervals, so by using a better quality dino oil like even the Rotella T mentioned here these same Honda engineers should easily approve 9k intervals using the better oil. Yes?

Full Syn oil consistently runs longer intervals while performing as good or more often better then similar dino's. Yes?

Now add together Honda engineered recommended 8k intervals, higher quality oil and now make it a high quality full syn oil and what intervals would you think those Honda engineers would recommend.

Just by using my simple mind, these 5 simple facts that are laided out above and the slightest amount of realistic conjecture I have some serious backing to be very comfortable changing my oil with a top 5 rated dino oil at 8k intervals.

I run Mobil 1 and am very happy with 6-8k intervals and have hit 10k once, wish I would have tested it!!!

All intervals can be adjusted up or down based on other factors like how, where, temps, how many 4th gear wheelies, etc. but in general

I consider any sub 5k interval severe over indulgence.

Peace Out and Save the Dinosaurs!

PS I'm Old and Slow but still run the piss out of my bikes and I've put over 105,000 miles on this one so far.

BR

Dude... it was 75 F in Nashville today... what are you doing on a Winter blues oil thread???

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Recovering from shoulder surgery. :-(

Darn .

No easy task but it does look good .

Yep, I'd say spread it around.

The more the merrier, and they are VFR owners after all.

+1 ...

I am not worried about the cost but you mite as well inquire if anyone is interested , really it's just right thing to do .

Unless the hose to the adjuster is cut / removed, R/R'ing the rear shock on a 6th gen ABS is a royal PITA. Turns what should be a short job in to an all day project. I had Jamie rebuild my ABS shock, but I could see why some wouldn't. Well worth it though!

I reviewed the post and yeah I am dreading it .

^^^^ And way to soft , I ran .90kg's front springs and they flatten out on me. Gonna get in contact with Jamie move up to .95kg's

David, did you ever make this change?

No Kevin planning doing it as a winter mod. Also need to email Jamie about it. When I first install the forks and the rear shock the combo was awesome. That was middle February and by the middle of October both front forks and the rear shock were flat and adjusted to max.

Oh, it for sure is gonna happen. Just not on the scale large enough to make it cheap for us early-adopters, that's all.

I'll make a separate post once I get costs from the other vendor. Maybe that will improve things. Should also post it up on that "other" 2nd tier VFR forum as well that I'm on...(just kidding folks...)

I know, I have been to that site also.

Sounds good .

Thanks Greg for the update.

Right now it was over $100 a set, USD. I was hoping to get that down by getting a ton of them made. Looks like that's not gonna be the case. I'll ask now about pricing for...six sets? Yikes. More when I know it.

That's ok I still want a set .

Ok. Here's where I am.

I got quotes on the part, but to be honest...I should get more. To me, it seems a bit high. And, at his price, I have added in nothing for me in all of this. Zero. Nada. I have also not added in shipping, and my time to get them/pkg them/ship them.

True, the guy DID redesign the part for the better, and took into effect all of the previous design points that seemed to be small issues for those of you who own/owned a pair of these in Gen 1: the bolt is no longer conical at the bottom, and the ridges are built-in on the base where the GSXR miror attaches to allow it to tighten and stay in the set position better. I truly think this was improved by the engineer's help. So, better design can/should = a bit more $, in my mind, right?

So now, I got a price, but he's asking about quantity. So, I have to ask:

Who might be seriously interested in a set (two mounts + drilled bolts) for the 6th gen? The 5th gen will be up next in line (if I get enough interest), but for now, let's start with just the 6th gen.

So, who's serious, and I'll count 'em up and see how many we might need. (Darth tells me he made/sold 50 sets when he did them.)

Potential 6th gen mounts buyers:

1) wgregt

2) Switchblade

I finally foud my problem for what the clock was resetting alone. I got the melting problem of the starter relay !!!

the starter relay was melted arond the fuse 30amp where the green plastic is , the red connector around the 4 terminals too.

now I have to change the wire with the white plastic connector.( change color)

One of my colleague at work went to his harness recall and they changed the small harness for the battery and starter relay for free.

guess who`s gonna show at honda next week?

Common problem with this bike , my 03 did the same thing .

Yes switchblade that is where I got the blow-up diagram I posted earlier.

What I'm asking is which numbers are the OP and JD referring to when they use the following terms:

- Cartridge tube

- Rebound valve

- Adj/connector rod

I figure they are all in number 11 yet this part doesn't come separated in the microfiche

Pretty sure one unit .

This one ? or 2 I should say .

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/2001/CBR600F4+AC/FRONT+FORK/parts.html

Sorry to revive a dead thread, however, does the bike needs to be set to TDC (top dead center) before removing the CCT? I'm getting mixed opinions on the matter.

No ..

You have a lot more time then me but yeah good catch .

Taking the hybrid 5.5 back to stock stopped being an option about the time the old subframe came off and I put the 6th gen on!

I will try to get some good pics of the mirrors and mounts so you can see what I did to mount them.

Update ..

Good news .

LED vehcle lighting technology is moving in leaps and bounds and many new designs had come up since this thread was started.

Have you guys noticed the new LED "light tube" lens designs that car makers are now using for their DRL's and tail lights. Pretty good stuff with in most cases, just one or a couple of LED bulbs providing all the needed light that is usually even more intense/brighter then the older, multi LED designs. More efficient, less cost to replace and much better lighting performance than multiple LED designs. Definitely the way LED lighting evolution is going.... Hope to see such in many motorcycles soon..

Even Walmart is selling them .

Stator ...

thank you , now I can ffinish my installation.

one more thing.... in the instruction , in testing section , line 5. " retest the voltage at the accessory wire....."

is this line is only for people who took the option with the vfrness.?

at idle i should have 13.5 to 14.5 i have 14.2 thats good. but when I rev the bike at 5k. I still have 14.2 , the instruction says 14.3 to 14.7volts

do you think my bike is ok now?

Your are good to go !

Welcome to the single nut club, looks like it's about to add more members.

I joined the single nut club last year, but not quite as stylishly as Phil has done :)

Got any cold beer in the frig ?