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Switchblade

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Posts posted by Switchblade

  1. It's true what switchblade says that after you've crashed a couple of times you know you'll probably recover and you might as well get on with it.

    Something no one else seemed to mention to watch for becoming reckless after a crash. After my last big crash in 03 i proceded to loose my good driver discount in a big way during the year after. I got five tickets for stuff like rolling stops at stop signs and ten over speeding tickets, riding inside the "cone zone" right in front of a black and white, pure stupid stuff, not the Sunday morning ride like your hairs on fire stuff.

    I started riding again before the bones were fully knit because I just couldn't sit in a car listening to NPR for one more commute which may have had something to do with it.

    I learned to take a zen moment before I got on the bike and clear my mind, trying to be aware of everything but focusing on nothing. It really helped. I try to do it to this day.

    +1 stop and take a zen moment.

    I find myself pulling off the road and relaxing for a couple minutes.

  2. I responded via PM...but for those who also want to know:

    I screwed up and made both ends female on the purple wire. Could be my inner female lovingness manifesting itself? could be too many late nights? Either way that one was my fault...sorry about that!

    There are no unused R/R or stator connections when installing the VFRness. It fits inbetween the existing R/R (not stator) connectors. This provides a duplicate path back to the battery, instead of an alternate path as many other options do...which inherently have the same issue the VFR does over time.

    That explains why I had no high beams, or front signal lights. Remember I had the HID kit so I had low beams . The previous owner had straight wired the stator and R/R.

    P.S. I fix the purple wire wasn't a big deal but did not want you to make hundred of the wrong ones !!!

  3. I ponied up the bucks and got ASV C5 levers.

    They are supposed to pivot forward instead of breaking, but I think

    it depends how the bike lands. Maybe good for a tip-over but I've read

    people breaking them on the track. Good thing is they are replaced

    under warranty.

    The main reason I got them was that they have a much wider adjustment

    range than the Pazzo or Chinese knockoffs.

    Take a look at the website, but if you decide you want them, shop around.

    MSRP is $120 per lever.

    I got mine from motomummy.com but their prices have gone up since I

    ordered mine. They let you mix long/short if you like. I stuck with longs

    since I didn't know what shorts would feel like.

    ASV Website: http://asvinventions...eakable-Levers/

    Review here: http://www.roadcarvi...c5-lever-review

    I also saw TRW levers listed on Ebay a while back. They look like Pazzos but

    even higher priced than ASV C5s.

    +1 I really like mine also .........

  4. A couple of problems with VFRness kit with acces.

    1. What do you suggest to do with the old stator and r/r wire connections

    2. From the VFRness harness to the 4 port Acces. there no way to connect the purple wires together .

    3. Send a couple 15A fuses for the 4 port Acces. block.

    Here are pix's of the purple (both female connectors) wires.

    P.S. I have email you a couple of times ..............

    post-18972-0-80225400-1315588400_thumb.j

    post-18972-0-68825400-1315588428_thumb.j

  5. +1

    Everything worked as it should when I turned the adjustment knob. You could even hear a change in the throttle bodies (Hissing noise) as I turned the knob back and forth, but there was no change in idle speed. It just hovered around 1000-1100 rpm and didn't change when turning the knob. Once everything was connected the adjustment knob worked. Switchblade, are you saying the the "non adjustable" valve is actually adjustable?? I just adjusted them to 19Hg across the board, put everything back together and adjusted the idle up a bit from there. Two of the cylinders were way off (10 and 15). I only drove it around the block late last night so I don't know if there is any drastic change. This bike has always had a horrible surge and a really jerky throttle response. Been that way since new, maybe I have something else wrong

    Locktite #3 in at what ever the book tells you to and set the other three to the same value and that solve all throttle problems !!!!!

  6. I had 1 issue though, the idle would not adjust during the starter valve adjustment procedure. Anyone have this problem? The idle would adjust fine once everything was connected and put back together but would not with the MAP, vacuum hoses, air box disconnected. Thoughts??

    Never seen that before. When you were adjusting the screw could you see the pistons moving at all, or even the idle adjustment plate move?

    Make sure your base line cylinder which I think is #3 is at its preliminary setting. Had the same problem when I did mine thefirst time. Its was supposed to be lock tite to a factory value. It was not and vibrated to different setting. Drove me crazy for about 15 minutes.

  7. Righto, seems Murphy is kicking my ass. I got the motor out of the new bike no problemo - we just lifted the bike off the stands, lowered it to the ground and loosened the mounting bolts before lifting the frame and fork assembly off it.

    However, whilst attempting to remove the swingarm from my '02 it seems my swingarm pivot bolt has rusted itself to the spacers. The pivot bolt and spacers spin nicely in the bearings, but I have bashed the F*CK out of the bolt to get it out and it is NOT moving. The pivot bolt nut came off nicely, and the pinch bolts are of course removed.

    I would just give up on it and use all the stuff from the new bike, but I currently HAVE to get the swingarm out because I need the freakin' swingarm bracket. Why? Because the other one from the new bike has the sheared-off centrestand bolt stuck in it! RAGH!

    Anyone got any advice for getting this little shit out? Right now it's practically soaking in WD-40 to see if I can get it to free itself overnight.

    Anyway I've given up for the evening as I have an early start tomorrow at - of all places - Honda motorcycles head office Australia. Is there some irony in there?

    If it is left hand thread just use normal bit(right twist) with a drill and drill it out !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  8. Well, I'm in no way qualified to determine whether or not the MOTY led to my Stator(s) failing. Buuuut, I've since removed them all. Including from the VFR which had no symptoms of impending failure. It is the only non-stock, non OE stator. Bought a new AGM yesterday, charged it up overnight, and stuck it in there today.

    Again, the VFR had no problems with the MOTY. 1200+ miles over the 4 1/2 days of TMac. Strong charging, started every time, never below 13 at key on.

    My R/R went out shortly after installing the MOTY, not sure if it was the cause but did not like the timing.

  9. After a bit of research and looking into the links provided, Ive decided on:

    OEM oil filter- Sounds like its a premium filter, even though a premium price. I also heard the bypass valve opens at 7psi to help lube during cold starts, compared to some others (like Mobil 1) that open at 25psi. Doesnt mean a lot to me but seems like a big difference.

    Motul 300V 10w40 oil- Sounds like its the best you can buy, again at a premium (premium) price. Read something about 10w40 not being recommender for motorcycles with a wet clutch but in the Honda manual 10w40 is recommended for my climate.

    +1 and sometimes you can find 3 filter pack on FleaBay and AMAZON for around $13.00 !!!!!!!!!!

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