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Posts posted by Switchblade
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Found these while looking for a exhaust system.
Honda VFR 800 1998-2010
Model: EL-00044Unit Price:$15.10
https://www.dan-moto.com/DM_INT/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=129_141&products_id=826
You must have forgotten what the thread was about. Two resistors costing just a few cents each do the same job.
No did not forget but for $20.00 to the door I wouldn't make mine .
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Found these while looking for a exhaust system.
Honda VFR 800 1998-2010Model: EL-00044Unit Price:$15.10
https://www.dan-moto.com/DM_INT/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=129_141&products_id=826
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Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!! First time posting and this was my first performance mod. It is sooooooo much smoother now. Mind you, this is actually my first bike, so I just thought the rough ride at low revs was a lack of skills (and that may still be the case). I had considered the PAIR and flapper mods but I think I will quit while ahead. If I understand correctly, I believe this mod is the alternative to the PAIR mod. I know zero about mechanics. Thanks to the creator of this post and everyone else for your feedback.
Since this is my first official post, I included a pic of my 2007 VFR (I hope it works - having trouble posting pic). Thanks for all of the advice. I couldn't continue lurking with a clean conscious without acknowleding the forum for all of the great advice and humor. :)
P.S. The exhaust was done today; O2 mod completed a couple of days ago. Delkevic mini carbons.
Dude Welcome love that paint scheme. Is dark gray painted ?
Need to do a introduction post .
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You probably could take the old's CCT's and make your own manual CCT's ..
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About two hours had both of mine changed, not bad . The front CCT was definitely the one pecking . After removal when compared to the new CCT the spring was gone ..
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update: yep it was a bad rectifier, replaced it and it's charging like a champ now! www.wiremybike.com is awesome!
You the man ...
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Ah, Switchblade, I see that you do have them, but mine are a different compound (FA388HH). Perhaps the more aggressive pads come with the heat spacer?
I thought all EBC's did but guess not, learn something every day on this site ..
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Double-H™ Sintered Superbike brake pads benefit from the highest friction HH rating for maximum stopping power, made in the USA from sintered copper alloy like original pads for longer life and perfect braking stainless steel radiator plates are fitted to reduce heat transfer into bikes hydraulics where required. Some callipers feature phenolic pistons and generally these do not require insulation.. The unique double segment vented design improves braking under all riding conditions, wet, dry, hot or cold. On wider EBC brake pads this keeps the pads cooler and prevents pad drag and overheat or fade.
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So question about changing the brake pads. My stock pads came with a metal bracket attached to the inner pad on each side. I didn't realize this until I was cleaning up. What is this, how important is it, and should I dive back in and attach it to the new pads?
Which pads did you install? EBC pads have them .
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Got two on order also ...
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Excellent idea ..
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Nice job !!!
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Install the Galfer full S.S. brake and clutch kit today .
Just use the old turkey baster and manually pump up the system with no problems ..
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No-one has developed such a kit for the V12, no.
No .
does anybody know if similar mods can be done on VFR 1200 STANDARD AND AUTO
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Does this help ..
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Much better than the K&N or the BMC filter.
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With about 90 minutes poking about with a 4mm magnet on a wire I eventually managed to retrieve the cap - hardest bit was getting it properly aligned inside the engine case to withdraw out cleanly - relived doesn't cover it! Just off to attempt re-fit #2 now!
Welcome PurpleTurtle and the wire and magnet deal was what I suggested for Spud but he got it out another way. I think.
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Looks good .
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Stator or R\R I would go head and replace both ..
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I am in the process of doing the sync now and can't get idle to rise above 10.5K RPM.
At its highest, I can hear quite a bit of air being sucked into the starter valve openings. If I turn the idle screw down, the hissing stops (almost) and the readings on the manometer increase, meaning that there is more vacuum.
Now, turning the idle screw down doesn't have much of an effect on the RPM.
What I have resorted to is turning the idle adjuster such that I get 20mmHg on the 4th cylinder and then I adjusted the other cylinders to match. This incidentally is the highest RPM reading I can get at about 11K. I am using the ECU wire to measure RPM.
Does anyone know why my RPM doesn't want to go up?
I have soaked the adjuster with PB Blaster on the throttle body and it moves fine within a certain range, so I don't think is't mechanical...
Before you started did you have any problems with adjusting the idle r.p.m.'s?
Just to satisfy me, the so called non adjustable starter valve , make sure it's not loose. Because mine was I would set it and it would change,. In other words the non adjustable valve would turn , the idle was all over the place. After I found it, I set it and crimp it. After that 15 minutes I had them all set the same .
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No gasket ...
This a old thread ..
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Never thought that . Looks good ..
Make Your Own O2 Sensor Eliminators
in Modifications
Posted
All ready have a set of home made .