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Switchblade

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Posts posted by Switchblade

  1. Found these while looking for a exhaust system.

    EL00017_2.JPG

    Honda VFR 800 1998-2010

    Model: EL-00044
    Unit Price:
    USD

    $15.10

    https://www.dan-moto.com/DM_INT/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=129_141&products_id=826

    You must have forgotten what the thread was about. Two resistors costing just a few cents each do the same job.

    No did not forget but for $20.00 to the door I wouldn't make mine .

    You would spend $20 over $1? There's no "making" to them. Just snip the excess length off the leads and stick them in there. Add a little bit of tape to keep them from falling out and you're done.

    All ready have a set of home made .

  2. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!! First time posting and this was my first performance mod. It is sooooooo much smoother now. Mind you, this is actually my first bike, so I just thought the rough ride at low revs was a lack of skills (and that may still be the case). I had considered the PAIR and flapper mods but I think I will quit while ahead. If I understand correctly, I believe this mod is the alternative to the PAIR mod. I know zero about mechanics. Thanks to the creator of this post and everyone else for your feedback.

    Since this is my first official post, I included a pic of my 2007 VFR (I hope it works - having trouble posting pic). Thanks for all of the advice. I couldn't continue lurking with a clean conscious without acknowleding the forum for all of the great advice and humor. :)

    P.S. The exhaust was done today; O2 mod completed a couple of days ago. Delkevic mini carbons.

    Dude Welcome love that paint scheme. Is dark gray painted ?

    Need to do a introduction post .

  3. Ah, Switchblade, I see that you do have them, but mine are a different compound (FA388HH). Perhaps the more aggressive pads come with the heat spacer?

    I thought all EBC's did but guess not, learn something every day on this site ..

  4. Double-H™ Sintered Superbike brake pads benefit from the highest friction HH rating for maximum stopping power, made in the USA from sintered copper alloy like original pads for longer life and perfect braking stainless steel radiator plates are fitted to reduce heat transfer into bikes hydraulics where required. Some callipers feature phenolic pistons and generally these do not require insulation.. The unique double segment vented design improves braking under all riding conditions, wet, dry, hot or cold. On wider EBC brake pads this keeps the pads cooler and prevents pad drag and overheat or fade.

  5. Switchblade, on 07 Jun 2014 - 06:34 AM, said:snapback.png


    Which pads did you install? EBC pads have them .

    The picture is of the stock pad and bracket. I installed EBC HH as replacement, but they did not come with one of their own.

    Thanks for jumping in!

    Jumped in because they do come with spacers !!!

    EBC 002

  6. So question about changing the brake pads. My stock pads came with a metal bracket attached to the inner pad on each side. I didn't realize this until I was cleaning up. What is this, how important is it, and should I dive back in and attach it to the new pads?

    attachicon.gifimage.jpg

    Which pads did you install? EBC pads have them .

  7. With about 90 minutes poking about with a 4mm magnet on a wire I eventually managed to retrieve the cap - hardest bit was getting it properly aligned inside the engine case to withdraw out cleanly - relived doesn't cover it! Just off to attempt re-fit #2 now! :fing02:

    Welcome PurpleTurtle and the wire and magnet deal was what I suggested for Spud but he got it out another way. I think.

  8. I am in the process of doing the sync now and can't get idle to rise above 10.5K RPM.

    At its highest, I can hear quite a bit of air being sucked into the starter valve openings. If I turn the idle screw down, the hissing stops (almost) and the readings on the manometer increase, meaning that there is more vacuum.

    Now, turning the idle screw down doesn't have much of an effect on the RPM.

    What I have resorted to is turning the idle adjuster such that I get 20mmHg on the 4th cylinder and then I adjusted the other cylinders to match. This incidentally is the highest RPM reading I can get at about 11K. I am using the ECU wire to measure RPM.

    Does anyone know why my RPM doesn't want to go up?

    I have soaked the adjuster with PB Blaster on the throttle body and it moves fine within a certain range, so I don't think is't mechanical...

    Before you started did you have any problems with adjusting the idle r.p.m.'s?

    Just to satisfy me, the so called non adjustable starter valve , make sure it's not loose. Because mine was I would set it and it would change,. In other words the non adjustable valve would turn , the idle was all over the place. After I found it, I set it and crimp it. After that 15 minutes I had them all set the same .

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