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CandyRedRC46

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Posts posted by CandyRedRC46

  1. Thought I'd add my R1 conversion to the mix.

    Details are here:

    http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/77541-another-r1-front-end-conversion/

    As I outlined in the post specifically about the conversion, I'm in complete agreement with the major change to the bikes handling.

    It has built greater confidence and as someone else on this post has stated, with greater confidence comes better safety margins.

    Must add that I've got an Ohlins on the rear as well.

    I would do it again in a flash. Well worth it.

    Here's a pic of the finished product.

    Cheers

    Phil

    attachicon.gif20140629_131238-sml.jpg

    Damn Phil you got me beat! lol that's the 07 plus R1 front end huh?

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  2. 1525700_577365729000207_268795658_n_zps6

    I am running 2005 R1 forks in cbr954 triple trees with 2mm axle and rotor spacers, dan moto clip-ons and R1 wheel/brakes.

    Its awesome, with 7 wt fluid and 1.1 kg/mm springs, rides smooth with no fork dive under braking. Brakes are phenomenal by the way.

    The rear tire will lift effortlessly.

  3. Yup that's what my research shows too. I know 46mm is way too large to run with out smaller velocity stacks, unless you are running the hrc race kit cams, pistons etc. but I would like to have mine bored out to about 40mm.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    This may be a silly question, you being an engineer wannabee soontabee... is there enough metal in the throttle bodies to remove 2 mm from the walls without compromising integrity? Do you have 40mm Honda parts bin throttle plates lined up? If so, please share the model :beer:

    Honestly I was just going to buy a clean used set and send them away to maxbore.com and let them work their magic. If they can only get them to 38mm that's fine. Just smoothing out all the casting marks and knife edging the butterfly's and and pins should work wonders.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. Yup that's what my research shows too. I know 46mm is way too large to run with out smaller velocity stacks, unless you are running the hrc race kit cams, pistons etc. but I would like to have mine bored out to about 40mm.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. Nice upgrade!

    On a semi-related note… what kind of specifics can you give on the stiffer clutch springs? I'm assuming it provides a more solid and positive clutch engagement? I find my clutch a little "soft" when shifting hard and sometime when clutching a wheelie. Do you think stiffer springs would help in these situations? I especially notice it with hard shifts… it seems as though the bike takes a little longer to recover after a shift at high rpm… not a solid engagement of the next gear. Does that make sense? What are the downsides of the stiffer springs?

    I didn't install the springs to cure clutch slipping or anything like that. I purchased/installed them to fight clutch chatter on high RPM launches. With the factory springs, I could only launch at about 4000 rpms before the clutch lever turned into an on/off switch. The engagement is no harder than it was with the factory springs, but it is much easier to modulate at 8000 RPMs. Stiffer springs will not make the plates wear out any faster, but may shorten the life of the throw out bearing and master cylinder or any other parts exposed to the higher than normal hydraulic pressure. The lever pull effort was dramatically increased, but it is only too much while stuck in traffic. The added clutch feel and high RPM stability was well worth it though. The added spring pressure vs the added master cylinder pressure really helps to stabilize the clutch pack at high RPMs. Also no that I have the radial master cylinder, lever effort has been reduced and feel has further increased.

  6. Posted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted Image

    I just installed a Brembo radial clutch master cylinder off of a 2009 Ducati 1100 monster. The ratio has been improved slightly with the Brembo have a 1mm smaller bore 15mm vs 16, for less effort and more feel, with a wider friction zone. I already had 100 pound Barnett clutch springs, so the lessened effort is a god send. As an added bonus, the previous owner had 6 position adjustable levers already installed, which can adjust the friction zone from at the bar to about 1.5 inches off of the bar. So all in all I would say that this is a great modification for those seeking less clutch effort and greater clutch lever feel.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    • Like 1
  7. mainly brake delink for sheding weight and seperate control of the front and the rear brakes, it is fully adjustable for compression, rebound and preload, also it has already been sprung correctly for the vfr. other things, the R1 brakes are phenominal and radial brakes and upside down forks just look tits.


    there is also the possibility of the R1 front wheel being lighter than the vfr wheel. hopefully.

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