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CandyRedRC46

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Posts posted by CandyRedRC46

  1. Here's a couple videos of testing out the youtune module, launch control and traction control. I have the launch control set to hold at 9,000 RPM's. Once it detects a 500 RPM drop, it moves on to the second stage (traction control) which limits output until reaching 11,000 RPMs. You will hear some missfires in this second stage. After Passing 11,000 RPM's you reach the third stage and you have full power again.

  2. Hey guys,
    Long time no post. Just one of those things where everything is working good, so I haven't been tinkering with it and I have a car project that needs a lot of work, so I haven't messed with the bike in a while, just riding it :) anyways I have a couple videos of messing with the launch control for you. HEADPHONES IN AND TURNED UP BEFORE WATCHING!!!

  3. You should be able to verify by adding 5% in the idle cell of those two cylinders and then watch their AFR go down and then vice versa for the other two. I'm not sure if you can do individual injectors with only two o2 sensors but you should look into it.

    After installing, I verified that every injector/cylinder/o2 sensor was paired correctly.

  4. Awesome to hear! Thanks for your feedback badelman! Far too often, you never hear from the guys that are happy with their product and only hear from the guys that are having issues. So it is great to read about your positive experience!

     

    Anyways, the best thing about the new Rapid Bike Racing is that you don't need to spend $250 on a dyno session with every mod that you do. So right now your bike is tuned for your stock setup. Then after you put on the pipercross filter and maybe do the snorkel and flapper, the rapid bike will tune for that after a few hundred miles.

     

    If you ever feel like putting slip-ons and maybe a catless header on sometime in the future, you can do so, without ever having to worry about tuning ever again. Just ride around for a few days and a few hundred miles, then do one hard high speed highway trip with lots of high gear high throttle pulls and then go home and apply the fueling changes.

     

    I wouldn't get too wrapped up in constantly applying changes, because they will always be a little different based on the weather conditions at the time that you were riding and your riding style that day.

     

    Just move the mapping over once or twice and let it be until you do another modification that would require different fuel mapping.

    Also you should save your maps before applying changes, jusy in case you don't like the changes that were made, so you can revert back to how it was.

    • Like 1
  5. Yeah I bought my old rapid bike 2 from them (Lenny in New York) 3 or 4 years ago. I think I was one of the last guys to get anything from him. He was a really nice guy and really helped me out and helped me set everything up via phone and his laptop, but man it took for ever to get everything shipped. Excuses about blizzards and hurricanes and everyone in the office getting sick etc, I was getting nervous I was going to get ripped off, but eventually everything came in.

     

    He did eventually stop returning my phone calls and emails when I started asking about why my RB2 didn't hold multiple maps like the RB3, which I thought at the time I had bought and really really wanted launch control, which the RB2 wasn't capable of.

    It wasn't until meeting Yaman at Cycle Pro / Rapid Bike that I found out that Dimsport had let Lenny go in 2008 or 2009 and he was just liquidating all his old stock and products and I just got stupid lucky with being in the right place at the right time. Pretty much everyone else that tried to buy a rapid bike from Lenny got the run around.

     

    All in all I did get really lucky though. I got a really cheap introduction to the older Dimsport technology (RB2 and RB3 technology and quality blew the pc3 and pc3usb out of that water) and then I met Yaman, all the guys at Cycle Pro and all the guys with Dimsport in Italy, after setting up that group buy for the vfr800.

     

    Its funny how it all worked out. I bought an old RB2 from a company that was going out of business. I loved the product so much that I wanted to find what I thought was the next up in their product line ( the RB3 which was apparently still pretty old stuff, but I hadn't heard of the Rapid Bike Evo and Rapid Bike Racing yet). So then I found a Rb3 from a cbr1000rr on eBay and tried to make it work on the VFR and I couldn't.

     

    I was searching for places to get it diagnosed and then I find out Cycle Pro was literally five minutes down the street from my house and they were the new north american Dimsport/ Rapid Bike dealer.

     

    I've had my Rapid Bike Racing for seven or eight months now and couldn't be happier. Plus I just got the youtune module two months ago and it just keeps getting better.

     

    I need to get out to the drag strip and dyno asap, but have just been really busy.

  6. The thing is everyone knows that your basic stock vfr800 should put down about 95 to the wheel and your basic slip on/catless header/filter/air box/ tune vfr800 should do about 100 to the wheel. But you always get the one guy with an optimistic dyno putting down 110 or 115 to the wheel with the same set up or someone with a really conservative dyno only putting down 90 or 95 with that set up also.

    So I want a stock or basic mods vfr800 there so we can go back to back and I can say, "I netted x extra HP over stock at y RPMs...." Because me saying "oh I made x much hp" is pointless, since I could make y HP on another dyno and z HP on another dyno.

  7. Well I applied the updates to mine on Saturday & finally got my wideband O2 connected & took it for 4 rides & abused it in the lower gears to work on the fueling, can't do high rpm in high gears as the speeds involved are silly, saw 125 on the speedo at one point & my speedo is corrected !

    It was so rich at low rpm >7K & low throttle opening, all the way to 60% throttle & above 7Krpm, showing 10/1 or higher fuel ratio. Some cells had auto tuned to +30% in that range, all with the old exhaust headers & intake setup last year. The narrow band sensor when removed was black with thick soot !

    So after 4 runs & 4 reductions by 50% each run for all + cells between 1500-7500rpm & 5-60% throttle, the engine works like it used to, it was so fluffy from all that fuel, it now responds much better & feels much stronger. So riding to work today & monitoring the readout, it shows in the 12/1 range when cruising & 13.2-13.5 when on it at higher revs. The readout is quite stable, which I was NOT expecting. I'm using an AEM digital gauge with the new Bosch LSU 4.9 Wideband O2 sensor.

    So still a little fuel tuning to do, then I can concentrate on the ignition map. Hope to get it sorted this week/weekend. Then get a dyno run :)

    CandyRed, Yamman agreed to give you free dyno runs to check your power, so get over there & get a power run & let us know if those sprint time calculations are anywhere near ! I really want to see a dyno printout from your bike, as do most of this VFR performance community on here.

    Rush, you could weld 4 O2 bungs into your headers & then run either 1 MTB or 1 O2 sensor like mine & tune one cylinder at a time manually. Cost is 1x O2 sensor system & 4x O2 bungs, plus pipe removal/welding/refitting.

    Have at it guys :)

    I wanted to do that with moving 1 my tuning bike around to each cylinder and tune them one at a time, but I didn't, either because it would have taken for ever or because the MTB get paired for life and locked into their original configuration. I'm not sure, I forgot, but I do not believe that the rapid bike software is set up for that. I don't think it will allow you to tune one cylinder at a time. I'm pretty sure that that's what I would have done if it were possible.

    Also yes, I would love to dyno my bike, but there is no point with out a baseline. I'm not going to post up a dyno sheet with out anything to compare it to.

    So as soon as anyone in the central Florida area with a stock or midly modified VFR VTEC wants to step up to the plate and meet me at the dyno for back to back runs, I'll gladly pay for their gas and dyno :)

  8. Traction control

    Engine braking control (fuel cut eliminator)

    Quick shifter control

    Air fuel ratio read out and on the fly target control

    Launch control

    Rpm and throttle position read out (on fly by wire bikes this works as cruise control too)

    I'm not going to try and sell you guys on traction control for a 100 HP bike, but launch control is f$%&ing awesome! And everything else functions marvelously.

    I never needed to do any dyno work, as my bike is now auto tuning. But if anyone wants to meet me at a dyno shop in the central Florida area for a baseline run, I would be more than happy to do some pulls and post up the numbers for you guys.

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