CandyRedRC46

9 hours ago, swimmer said:

What makes people think the factory fan setting is too high?  Honda have a long history of making reliable engines of this type so I am inclined to think they had a good reason(s) for choosing that temp.

Its is pretty widely accepted that the optimal engine operating temperature for safely making maximum power is around 185-195.

The cooler that you make the the engine (to a certain point), the more aggressive you can tune the fuel and ignition maps, with out worrying about causing detonation.

A 225F engine will suffer preignition with less timing advance on the same octane fuel, than an engine operating at 190F.

The more timing advance that you can safely run (to a certain degree), the more power you can make.

There are down falls to lowering the engine operating temperatures though (which I am sure honda took into consideration).

An engine operating at a higher temperature will allow the fuel to vaporize and combust more readily (which is also why it detonates more easily too)

If the fuel burns more easily, you have cleaner emissions and better MPG, with a more mild tuning.

Also the oil temperature should be over 220F to ensure that all condensation is burnt off.

So basically engine temperature is a compromise.

A 225F engine will need a more conservative tune and make less power, but it will be cleaner, more efficient and have longer oil life.

A 190F engine CAN be tuned more aggressively, to make more power, but it will have dirtier emissions and need more frequent oil changes.

On 5/10/2016 at 10:48 PM, Scheibs said:

Hi All;

I have a power commander 5, and Delkevic exhaust.  There are 2 toggle switches  by my left thumb. One of them causes the gear position sensor to read 3

in 1st through 3rd gear.  When it reads 3, there's a gigantic power improvement in 1st and 2nd gear.  The other switch cancels the top end restriction.  I've 

accelerated past 163mph and it was still climbing.  (I didn't care to go any faster).  The bike is a 2010 purchased used with these improvements included.

It was my understanding that the remapping of the computer limits was done through the power commander.  Am I Correct with that?

No, the Power commander only does fuel mapping. It will not remove restrictions. Sounds like the previous owner hacked up the Gear Position Sensor.

Man this is great stuff!

Running e85 or meth injection would negate the need for intercooling. Running a step or two colder plugs would help. Reducing coolant temps (which are already a concern on stock vfrs)  would dramatically help ward off any detonation concerns as stock the bike can easily see 225* F, ideally you would want to stay under 190*F. Most importantly, improving air flow through the engine and out the exhaust would lower the boost psi and create more power (as long as you don't create so much valve over lap that the boost just blows right through with out being compressed). Things like a real full exhaust, head porting, valve deshrouding, more aggressive cams (again paying attention to not dial in too much overlap) and larger throttle bodies would all allow more airflow out of the supercharger, lowering its psi and raising its cfm. It is CFM that makes power and lowering the psi will also lower the air charge temp, allowing you to either run a more aggressive tune or a more aggressive pulley combination to raise the psi back up...

What I would really like to see is a dyno pull with the injectors duty cycle overlayed. That way you could tell if you have fuel left or the injectors/pump is getting close to maxed out.

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If this is something the pcIII usb picks up then it should be in the map, no?

I fired her up first time with the power commander connected to win xp, but I can't remember anything from this many years ago.

It is stored in .djm file format I can see...

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What I would really like to see is a dyno pull with the injectors duty cycle overlayed. That way you could tell if you have fuel left or the injectors/pump is getting close to maxed out.

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One bar is 14.7 psi so 7 or 8 psi is around 0.5 bar. Sounds about right to me. :)

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You should see if you can find a compressor map for the supercharger. Look at it. Do the math. See how many psi you can take it to by red line, with which pulley combos (compressor RPMs) and what efficiency island it will put you in...

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Want to break 200 whp? Tyga headers for a real exhaust and Rapid Bike Racing for a real tune. That way you can pull the ignition timing back a few degrees, get a smaller supercharger pulley and or a larger crank pulley and safely add a few more pounds of boost. Another thing to look into would be larger injectors and fuel pump and then tuning for e85. Also you could do some head work, a port and polish and de-shrouding the valves and working the combustion chamber over to have slightly more volume, which would lower your compression ratio and allow for safely running more boost.

I have used the oem (16/43 530) chain and sprockets, a DID 15/43 520, a DID 15/46 520 and now a 17/43 520.

OEM combination was okay, nothing really worth noting. Speedometer is slightly optimistic.

The one down up front 520 DID was great with good acceleration and decent highway cruising. MPGs are not really effected. 80mph indicated is 70mph on gps.

The one down / three up 520 was insane, enough torque to pull a house off its foundation, but terrible highway cruising. City MPGs are a little better, while high speed highway MPGs suffer somewhat. 60 MPH indicated equals 50 on GPS.

The one up in front/ factory rear and 520 chain is pretty boring, acceleration is still okay, it just requires more clutch slip. It will still power up in first and clutch up in first fine, but it requires more effort to stand up than the other combos and will not wheelie second unless you are already up. It is great for long distance highway cruising though and has better high speed highway MPGs. I believe the speedometer is dead on accurate with this combo, maybe even a tad under actual.

I got my mapping where I like it, left it at 5% and stopped moving it over. Everything has been fine ever since. If I do any mods, I will put a few hundred miles on it and move another adaptive map over.

You do not need to do a custom dyno tune if you have the Rapid Bike Evo or Race, unless you have extensive modifications.

The supplied base map that the Race and Evo modules were shipped with, will be very close to perfect on most factory VFR800s or with basic slip-on, catless headers, snorkel flapper delete and air filter etc mods. The Race and Evo modules run in closed loop (taking in information from the factory o2 sensors or optional wide band to make necessary fueling changes) and will easily compensate for basic modifications and weather/altitude changes. Honestly the VFR800 comes equipped from the factory with a Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor and the factory ecu can compensate for altitude changes by it self, the Rapid Bike will not effect this.

Now on the other hand, if you are running modified camshafts, high compression, ported cylinder heads, over bore pistons, forced induction, nitrous, race gas etc.... you are going to want to spend some time on a dyno.

Its definitely worth it! Be sure to go GP shift. Once you go reverse shift, you''ll never look back.

I am running the Rapid Bike Racing plus the Rapid bike quick shifter. I went with Sato rear sets a long time ago, so it was a simple plug and play for me. I had been using the old Rapid Bike 2 and older on/off style pressure switch quick shifter, which worked okay but needed some upkeep, but I have to say the newer Rapid Bike strain gauge based quick shifter is phenomenal. It is fully adjustable for any amount of force that you could possibly want for initiating the fuel cut shift and requires no maintenance.

Even after a Jamie Daugherty fork upgrade, you're still stuck with VFR brakes.

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Okay, I've got an '06, and I'm ready to go -1 on the front, do I also need a new chain, or will stock do? And If I do, any reccomendations on brand/type of chain?

My understanding is an '06 is a sealed o-ring type? What's a good place to pick up a 16t front?

Thanks in advance!

Here ya go

http://sprocketcenter.com/street-sprocket-applications/honda/vfr-800-2002-2014.html

If I had a million dollars I would:

Catch up to Mohawk and Highsidenz with the engine mods

Catch up to Keef with the Ducati rear wheel and subframe mods

And catch up to Veefercrab with the new fairings and clutch cover

I think that would make the ultimate VFR and maybe even the ultimate motorcycle.

oh man thats nice!

Once you go GP, you'll never go back.

Sub'd good luck

Awesome work!

Do 36mm 3rd gen carbs offer increased performance vs 34mm 4th gen carbs? With that up graded exhaust, I would look into carbs as well.

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Awesome work! I'm subscribing now. Is this a 4th gen? I have a two brothers full system on my 6th gen, it lost some response below 2000 rpms (due to the much larger primary/secondary piping diameter) and gained massive mid range from 7000- red line (again, due to the much larger piping). I also advanced the ignition timing, which gained massive torque in the 2500-7000 range, so I am left with a bike that is a little softer in the idle-2000 range and much much stronger from 2500-redline.

shit, that sounds like a really fun bike now!

Honestly I'm not a fan of the traction control. I played around with it for a few weeks and then turned it off. No need for it on the street anyways. But the second stage that you hear in the launch, from 9000-11,000 is the "traction control". Its not a super intelligent system, there are no wheel speed sensors, it just cuts the power output.

Everything else has been great though. The engine braking adjustment works (its really just an adjustable fuel cut eliminator). The auto tuning works great, if you know what your doing (don't expect it to sort your fueling out if your mapping is wayyyyyyyy off). The adjustable quickshifter is awesome. The air fuel ratio read out is great. The ignition mapping is even better than my old RB2 (EVEN MORE AGGRESSIVE AND POWER).

I could go on forever. I just wish they were able to tap into the GPS. Overall, totally worth it.

No I haven't ran it at OSW in about a about a year. My best so far is 10.82 at 127.42 (untuned). I have since upgraded from the old "Rapid Bike 2" to the new "Rapid Bike Racing" module, with four wide band o2 sensors (one per cylinder for individual fuel mapping), launch control and a more aggressive ignition map, overbore throttle bodies with port matched heads and a four way adjustable rear shock.

If I can pull a 10.7 at 130 this winter, I'd be pretty happy. If not, maybe I'll throw a 25 shot at it lol.

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