TurdEngineer99

thnx for the tips, all after changing 30 amp fuse & going thru most of the harness points, relays, along with opening the engine stop switch/starter button housing - sprayed contact cleaner in all, I let it sit overnight. yesterday, I put alligator clips from 30 amp fuse holder to the female harness clip, turned the key, flipped switch to on/off a few times then heard a relay "click; pressed starter button with a successful crank & fire up! the 30 amp fuse holder & harness with wire in between are definitely 'tired' looking and will replace those today. you know, I bought a Honda to avoid these issues, however, for a 14 yr old bike and 8 yrs of ownership, this is the only problem I've had with it, so that's not bad at all.

Hello folks took the bike out of winter layup - basically, I remove battery and then refitted just like I've done every winter. 02 non-ABS with 26k miles. only mods are 02 sensor delete, air box mod, and orig. exh. mod. so, turn the key, lights come on and the fuel tank level shows up. then press the engine stop switch to the on position and the fuel pump doesn't 'whir' nor does the engine crank. Battery is fully charged Oh joy! here's a run down of things checked and/or known 1. tank is full 2. all fuses checked for continuity - none blown, except the 30A near Neg terminal on battery doesn't look all that good 3. put battery across the fuel pump and it works 4. bypassed the starter relay and engine will crank 5. disconnect various harness connections, cleaned each with contact cleaner 6. none of the relays 'hum' 7. the wire between the 30Amp fuse mentioned earlier to the harness connection is dry and the jacket is splitting, but not broken. 8. the recall was never performed on the bike; no vfr-harness, etc. 9. the starter switch was sticky, opened up the plastic housing and cleaned it. No longer sticky now. 10. the only other oddity other than described above is when right hand turn signal put on it doesn't light unless you keep pressure on the switch then it will blink. after I press "post", I will get back to troubleshooting.... thnx Tim P.

Ok, completed the conversion on Friday evening. Between 2 sick kids this weekend and spring cleaning chores, finally assembled the rest of the rear end. Took it for a spin and definitely stiffer; I also swapped the stock springs for 1.1kg sonic springs 2 weeks ago. Regarding the bracket - it's been cut to suit the fitment of the new shock. I had the right side bracket modified with fasteners to keep the right side brake prop. valve stationary.

unfortunately don't have room for that...thnx though

will be cutting the bracket. BR - thnx for the advice & link, very helpful!

2002 VFR non-abs bought a 929 shock from JD about 5 years ago, finally getting around to installing it. old shock out, cleaned up everything in there, ready to fit new shock in. I've lost my notes from researching this and the other forums. Where im at right now is the bracket that holds the proportioning valves for the linked brake system. The bracket which spans left to right is obstructed by the reservoir on the new shock. I know the valves need to be firmly fixed, so Im thinking I need to carefully crop out the center section, refit the left & right sections of the bracket, mount the valves. But now the center section has to be fastened somewhere because it serves as a mount for the rear brake line. Would it be advised to weld/fasten it to the rear sub frame or a different location? If anyone has done this conversion, please let me know if I'm on the right track! Thnx

Brian see your location is mid-Hudson valley, where specifically? I google mapped New Milford CT to Red Ranch Motel, 75 miles, 1.5 hrs, 3 routes, I think I would take most scenic and twisty route through Sharon CT into NY....RTs 189/82/23 to Rt 32. If the weather turns foul, I need to bow out. otherwise, still tracking forecast day to day

Thanks for the reply Seb

ok so how does this work.... meet up when/where/what/how/etc? staying at the same mo/hotel each night? assuming each person is responsible for their own reservations... so I've got Friday off, my plan is to begin ride on Friday morning to Catskills area

Understood...thnx

Terry, thnx for the info and the link. at next oil change interval, will open up and inspect the selector mechanism and depending on discovery, begin saving up for this kit... slick stuff there~

Follow up... took bike to work today, oil level is normal. 1. adjusted clutch lever as suggested by Mr DannyMoto-san~ 2. accelerated easily thru 1-2-3, preloading the lever, gears engaged once throttle off/clutch pulled in w/ little effort, did this several times, no issue 3. then tried shifting gears thru hard acceleration - this is where the phenomena started again. I could feel the shift lever had no resistance when shifting to 3rd gear. I "pumped" it until it I could feel the motion of the travel change and preload, then I could engage it. Same going into 4th gear as well. WIll I have to go down the road of opening up gearbox?

I will try this tomorrow what kind of disassembly? as in splitting the engine casing apart?

As of today, 02 w/ 22k miles. At a stop, start accelerating through 1st and then 2nd gear. Then pull the clutch in for 3rd and noticed that it did not engage when I released the clutch. Pulled in the clutch, and then retried - it went in on the 2nd try. Came to a red light, then accelerated at the green, didn't happen. Came to another red lift, then accelerated at the green, then it happened again. The only maintenance done on the bike recently was a chain clean & tension adjust - pretty routine stuff and this was about 200 miles ago. Anyone experience similar with their bike? Any solution?

Turd = Tim P.