FJ12Ryder

Software isn't available from the vendor? That's not a good sign.

Have you got another battery you could stick in there just to eliminate the battery? Seems pretty darned unlikely that is the problem, but you got to try things. You might do a continuity check for all the grounds you moved around.

Did you disconnect the powerlet plug? I can't see that being the problem, but stranger things have happened. Are the black wires coming off the batter for the powerlet plug?

That sucks.

Just a note, if at all possible put the positive bolt in first and the negative side last. That way even if you contact the frame while putting in the positive side nothing will happen. OTOH if you touch the frame while bolting the negative side, no big deal. You probably already know that, but just a heads up for people that may be unaware.

But you're sure right about a lot of wire to stuff in there. I noticed that when I did mine.

Very nice.

For the same reason they use ultra-high ratio gears and slicks: every little bit helps, but it isn't anything you're going to run for street use. But ceramic bearings for everyday usage, meh. IMO of course.

A certain amount of cool factor, but you'd have to make sure everyone knew about it.

Color me still skeptical about a 3-5 hp gain with wheel bearing change. But that's just me.

I dunno, if the nylon gets loose the nylon wears out rather than rounding off the corners of the nut. The aluminum might round off a bit of the nut so it won't be tight. I think I'll stick with the nylon, not that it's been a problem,

Are these USB ports waterproof when they're plugged in? It didn't really look like it, just that they had a cover so they wouldn't get water in when they are not in use.

You're on the right track with freezing the bearings. That's the first step, then have a driver that is a little smaller than the OD of the bearing. A little anti-seize on the ID of the wheel bore, and gently drive the bearing into the wheel. Make absolutely sure you're square to the opening so you don't get the bearing started at an angle. And most of all: don't forget the spacer between the bearings. Make sure your wheel is supported on a non-scratch surface and you should be golden.

Yep, it's great. The acceleration is wonderful. I'd never go back.

I just got back from a ride and checked my speedo and odometer while I was out. My speedo is off about 12%, shows 82 mph when I'm actually running 73, this is measured against my bicycle computer and the GPS. The odometer is off by a touch under 5%. In 10 miles it showed 10.46 miles. I checked the rpm vs speed but forgot what it was. CRS syndrome.

Mostly they break because, from what I understand, people are trying to break the chain before grinding the rivet heads smooth. A high quality chain breaker will easily run nearly $70 by itself, so you're paying about that for a chain breaker/rivet tool. It just isn't strong enough to break a chain that isn't prepped. Sometimes it just of irks me that some will pay good money for useless bling, but balk at paying for decent tools. Just kind of a pet peeve of mine.

I believe that most of the times the master link tools break is because they are used to try and "break" the chain, and most are under engineered to do that. That's what I've noticed anyway. It would be very tough to break a master link tool by swaging the master link pin over. Like I've heard over the years: "There's never enough money to do it right, but there's always enough money to do it over."

I like ingenious ideas as much as the next guy and as an emergency fix it's a good idea, but why not get the right tool for the job? Would you buy a crescent wrench when you actually need a flange wrench? Sometimes the best tool for the job is the tool designed for the job. These tools are not overly expensive and are something you'll use again.

Looks sharp. That red looks like it matches very closely.

Id actually prefer first gear taller(its only good to about 60 mph), gearing it down just makes it useless for most purposes, and making the back wheel break loose easier in wet conditions.

Not me, I use 1st gear mainly for pulling away from a stop. Lower gearing makes that easier on the clutch, especially with two people up an incline. Taller 1st gear makes very slow traffic a real PIA, not to mention a clutch killer.

That's where I got my set. He puts in a couple long ones for a couple of the front.

Yes, it takes 7, and they are great.

I'm really happy with the 17-45.

Yes, you can put too much oil on the K&N filter, in fact you put on waaay too much oil. Generally speaking you put on enough oil to color the pleats. I usually put on enough so the filter is uniformly red, maybe two light coats. One coat overall, then wait for it to soak in and then another light coat to hit the spots that I missed the first time.

You said you "Let it dry", but it's oil and it doesn't dry. You'll probably be okay after some of the oil gets sucked out of the filter and the engine can start breathing through the material again. It can really screw up the sensor in a diesel engine if you use too much oil on a filter, but I don't think the VFR will have a problem.

I'm running the stock chain with 17-45 combination.

I went with a 45 tooth rear sprocket, and stayed with the 17 tooth countershaft sprocket. I didn't go smaller in the front as I didn't want to increase angular velocity of the chain. That increased acceleration and I do like it.

My RPM at 75 mph went from 5500 to almost 5900. The odometer was dead on before the change and now is off by about 4%. Speedometer is waaaay off, probably about 15%.

I installed a bicycle computer so I can see my correct speed. All in all, I think it was worth it.

Also I do have an 18 tooth countershaft sprocket that I tried out and really didn't like it. I never really noticed any increase in mileage but there was a lot more stress on the clutch due to the higher gearing. First gear is pretty high anyway and adding another tooth in front exacerbates the slipping to get started. Plus you have to downshift one or two gears to get passed a car in a hurry, if necessary.

Darwin award candidate if you ask me.

Got to admit, that does look kind of scary to me too. I, for one, would have to give a tire/wheel combination like that a pass, even on my car.

Not for me, but whatever floats yer boat.

Whiz-bang is what we're all about.

Good point, as I just spent $50 on a silly rear wheel plug.