coderighter

So I got about 6k miles on the combo and all is well. I did find one "issue". I started noticing that some times when leaving a light, I would get a ever so slight hesitation. After some testing and research I found what caused the "issue". To understand, you need to keep in mind that checking the air fuel ratio with an O2 sensor is getting the info is after the fact. That is, the mixture has all ready been made and ignited. The "issue" was that when I would come to a light, I would down shift through the gears. I would throttle up to "catch" those the gears. The Autotune would try and tune to the fuel ratio that I had in the table for those RPM / throttle positions. The problem is that what the ECM wants is super lean for those RPM / throttle positions under deceleration. That's alot different mixture than what it calls for under cruise. Under this situation, the Autotune sets the trim table way rich (limited by the max increase possible you set in the Autotune). When you go to accelerate from the light, the trim table for those areas are rich and it takes a split second for the O2 sensor to read the mixture and correct it, making all well again. This can also be a problem when trying update the trims to your table, since some my not be "correct". Well, I came up with a very easy fix. The PC5 has connections to switch the Autotune on and off. I happen to have a adjustable vacuum switch left over from another project that I decided to wire to that on / off switch connection. I disconnected the vacuum solenoid and connected that vacuum line to my hand vacuum pump to use it's gauge, since that's the one I'm going to use to set the switch. I put the pump in the window pocket of my tank bag and went for a ride. The port was very stable, about 7-11 inches at cruise. I used that info to set the vacuum switch to trip at 14 inches and greater, which are the readings under deceleration. This turns the Autotune off while I'm decelerating. The switch resets at 12 inches which gives a real nice buffer area so that you don't get in a constant on/off, on/off. Problem solved, the Autotune on / off is seamless and all is now perfect. In my testing, I found that the Evap solenoid opens at around 15mph (ever notice a surge there?!?) and stays open until you either pull in the clutch, throttle to zero, or shift into neutral. I find this strange, I would think the canister would be purged under deceleration. I decided this could only cause problems with the Autotune, so I removed the Evap system and I'm using that vacuum source for my vacuum switch and I'm using the bolt hole that held the solenoid to mount the switch with a stainless angle bracket I had. I also got tried of dealing with the mounting of velco on the curved plastic, so I came up with this: . PC mount I can still get in tool kit under it and it keeps the electronics secure and away from the heat, while still giving good access to the USB port.

Yes, I'm using it. I believe its the best feature of the PCV. There is no gear position sensor input on the PCV, it compares a feed from the vehicle speed sensor to the engine RPM to find what gear you are in. Works great. You can set up a fuel efficient 5th-6th gear cruise while still having a smooth as butter 1st, 2nd and 3rd. I can also sneak through the neighborhood in 3rd gear @ 3200-3400 rpm without all the drama, no surge, no snatch.

Yes, plugs right in. If you want to do map by gear you need to tap into the vehicle speed sensor wire. I you use a Autotune with it and want to have it not sample until you reach operating temp, you'll need to tap into the temp sensor. Dynojet has decided not to support the PCV on any bike built before '09 regardless of make or model. My guess is they didn't want to do any reverse engineering. It also leaves a larger market for the PCIII, which I'm guessing at this point, has a larger profit margin.....or something.

Here's a really cool gearing tool. Lot's of cool info. http://www.gearingcommander.com/

You're right, Dynojet doesn't make or support the PCV for any bike built before '09. We know that the VFR hasn't been changed since '02. We know there are 2 model numbers of PCIII listed for 6th gen one for '02-'05 (#111-411) and one for '06 to '08 (#126-411). Those parts number are the same hardware, the only difference is the preloaded map. The "411" is the hardware and the or 3 digit number is the "stock" map for that model. I ran a '02-'05 unit on my '06 for a year with no problem. If you look, most Honda's use the same hardware, just different maps, example, the '06 CBR600 is #117-411. Guess what? If someone is having a sell on '06 CBR600 PCIII you can get it change the map, and you're good to go. Has anyone actually installed a non specific vfr power commander ***-411 and does it actually work? No, it does not always work. The info I got from a Dynojet tech rep was bad. I edited my post to remove that statement but it is still in qouted replies that I can not edit. Sorry.

I don't believe removing the EVAP has anything to do with your idle since the valve is closed when the throttle is closed. However, if your idle adjustment is too high because of some other problem, you could make the ECU think it's not "closed" therefore possibility activating the valve. When you had the bike mapped the tuner didn't really care what was happening before, he was just trying make it right for what you had done to the bike. Besides, 5% is not that much properly didn't notice, didn't matter. To be clear, I'm not saying you should or shouldn't remove the EVAP and I'm not saying removing it will fix or cause any problem. I just wanted to let people know how it worked so they can decide what they want to do with as much info as possible.

'Bump' Because I double checked and reinserted some info to the original post. Sorry

So..... I was getting some weird readings on my autotune down in the low throttle areas. I narrowed it down to light throttle deceleration. While the autotune would fix it next time I hit that cell in cruise or acceleration, the weird readings make it hard to create a good table to pass on to you folks. I had this idea to use a adjustable vacuum switch I had left over from another project (700R4 in a '71 Chev PU). The autotune has a connection for a switch to turn it on and off, simply set the switch to open on high vac. (More on the vacuum switch in a later post, that stew is still cooking.) So.... I start looking for a good place (vacuum wise) to install the switch when I spotted the EVAP purge solenoid. This got me thinking, in the old days when charcoal canisters first came out, they were purged on deceleration. Maybe I could slave a relay off the solenoid to control the autotune. To test if this theory still holds water, I connected a LED in place of the solenoid to find out when it activated. Well to my surprise, the solenoid activates whenever the throttle is off idle, the speed is above 14mph and the clutch is out. This revelation doesn't help me with my task but I thought I do a little more research and pass it on. Basically if you unhook the solenoid the bike will run a little richer whenever your moving under throttle. How much? Well the more throttle, the less it matters. I used my autotune to measure and it seems its about 4-5% at 5% throttle. By 10% throttle its about 2-3%, beyond 20% throttle I couldn't measure the difference. So removing the EVAP will change how your bike runs. It'll make it a little richer in low throttle areas. Mom always said I should share.

I have the speedo healer, and the gear indicator on an 07 with ABS. I am running at -7.9%, but have not noticed the problem. I have been considering getting a PCV. I will have to watch the response more closely now in the LOW RPM range. I think you'll be ok at -7.9%. Doesn't seem to be a big enough error until you get to -10 or so, but let me know if you find something.

Spin the collar with the tabs 90 degrees, thus taking them out of the holes they are catching on. Screw the barend back on lightly, apply compressed air (rubber tipped air gun) into the hole used to locate the switch assemblies while holding/gently pulling the re-attached barend, it comes right out. Took an hour of goofing around to figure out the first one, about 30 seconds for the other side.

Thats what the Genmar riser is basically. Yes, but not for reversed bars. Maybe they should offer a reverse bar model.

I thought about this, but you lose the tab that makes sure the bar doesn't move. I know the Helibar doesn't even have that tab, but i think it's designed to be that way. Seems like someone could make a piece that could go under the bar, like a really thick washer, with a slot for the bar tab and a tab to go where the bar tab used to go on the tree. Just a thought.

I agree with you it's pretty lean. I also wonder if it's a wild number, but considering that on 40% it gets steadily leaner from 6000 and up. So I guess this 17.3 at 8750 is not that wild, is it. From the left side of the bike, I use the more accessible O2 bung. It's the one with plate protector. I guess it's coming from Front left and rear right cylinder. Sorry I always forget cylinder numbering on VFR. Which one d' you use for your autotune? I used the same one, mostly because the lead off the sensor isn't that long. There's a connector is about 8-10 inches off the sensor and by using the closest bung the connector tucks up nicely next to the water pump. Oddly enough, that same cell on my 4th, 5th, and 6th gear was autotune set to +26, which is the highest number I have anywhere. You would think being that lean would be hard to fire. God forbid if you decided to cruise for any length of time at that 8750 with 40% throttle.