Ryanme17

This was my first thought when reading the thread title, but it could be the clutch switch as well.

Yes, any decent shop will have plenty of experience working with ABS plastic. Every car nowadays has plenty of plastic--almost always over the bumper, and this is the first part hit in an accident.

IIRC, Cozye's map was done carefully and with deliberate testing using a seat-of-your-pants-ometer. Most dynometer shops are set up to make maximum HP on your literbike/hayabusa and may not provide a remotely smooth map at part throttle and lower RPM conditions.

Just ridiculous. The very idea that hard parts sliding will stop you faster than rubber tires never made sense to me. I suppose if you were going to slide UNDER the semi-truck, lol!

Was it cold when you tried to start your bike? Don't forget a cold battery will have a much harder time starting than a warmer one in the same state of charge.

I guess that makes sense. Cars with wheels less than 7" wide are going to be smaller cars and so 17" would be too tall. No market for that. Bummer.

Monk is right. Please do not attempt to jump your battery off of a running car. This needs to be done with the car off. The amount of electricity required to start your <800cc motor won't even affect the car battery, there is no need to have the car running and the extra voltage could do damage. I, for one, am glad that you asked for help. I live in Michigan and would hate to buy what I expect to be a shiny nice 2007 VFR only to find out the wiring has been fried, and the battery is only good for a few starts. When I first started I asked plenty of stupid questions, and if I had been missing part of a battery tender I would have been confused, too. I had the fortunate experience of receiving lots of encouragement along the way. Now, if you look through my posts, you'll see I probably answer 20 times as many questions as I ask. Let me be clear, I am criticizing no one. I know it can be frustrating to try and moderate an open internet forum. I have seen how that can attract people who embody the opposite of what VFRD stands for. Go to a GSX-R or a even a CBR website if you don't believe me. It is because of these policies that VFRD is not only more civil but more open to seemingly stupid questions. I'm willing to bet if this had been asked on a GSX-R forum, there would have been dozens of one word responses (fail, noob, etc.) This is your best bet, plug one end of the attachment into the powerlet on your bike, and the other end into your battery tender (assuming your battery isn't completely friend by now-which is likely is). I have bought from Tightwad many times and ALWAYS have a better experience (and usually much, much better prices) than if I had bought something from a big-retailer. I highly recommend www.wiremybike.com

Quickshift is PCIII USB compatible.

Why not do this with a 17 x 6 car tire and a normal sized tire? Other than a heavier wheel, if the spacing lines up, this shouldn't negatively affect handling like the flat profile on his 200 mm wheel will, and would let all the farklers add whatever wheels they want. Am I missing something?

No, the Power Commander III changes the bike's fueling map by adding or subtracting fuel at a specific throttle position and RPM. So the gearing won't matter. This may affect the PCV's map by gear feature, however, this is something I am not sure on. If you aren't going to add autotune, quickshift, or map by gear in the future, then there's really no advantage to paying to get a PCV. It adds a few more RPM positions and has a marginally quicker processor (if I recall correctly), but you should be just fine with the PCIII.

Exhaust mods will give you: Much louder sound, slightly less weight, WORSE fuel mileage*, and maybe a tenth of a horsepower increase. *VFR's tend to run lean as it is. By adding a higher flowing system, it will run more lean, and this should be corrected by adding more fuel with a Power Commander.

It's possible. Would be worth checking your battery and charging system (PLENTY of posts on here about that), but now that Veefer800Canuck mentions it, a grounding issue does sound likely.

I would start http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/16-fi-light-how-to-read-error-codes/page__p__788724__hl__+reading%20+fi%20+codes__fromsearch__1#entry788724 Here.

Nah, this is only a one-beer job--And that's assuming you drop at least one screw! I wonder if I am at fault here, for often railing against how easy it is to drop those stupid screws I may have contributed to the perceived difficulty of this task. I'm still gonna stand my ground and say a magnetic screwdriver and a little magnet on a stick are essential for this task!

At the track they were fantastic. Great turn-in, held like glue, seemed to wear pretty well. I got almost 5,000 miles out of a set of Pilot Powers (including a track day) so we'll see how these compare for mileage. If what you guys say is true, I might swap them out before they run out of treads, just to get best grip.

Should we make this a mandatory read before asking an oil-related question?

Oh yeah, I did shave it down a little bit originally when I put the throttle-lock on. I'll give that a shot.

I took my handlebars apart to re-route some wires (took the risers off for a change) and I can't seem to get my throttle to spin freely with both the throttle lock on. The wire from the heated hand grips is rubbing against it and making it return more slowly than I would like. I had it on before and it wasn't a problem, but I can't figure out how I did that... Did I have the wire on the inside of the throttle lock? How would that work? Has anyone else done this? Maybe I could just make the wires more slippery? What could do that? Something like Scotch tape but with better adhesive??

Why?