slowbird

I did it a long time ago to my old VF500 stock exhaust and it held up well. I don't see why you can't do it with a 5th gen if you prep it properly.  

Congratz on the bike! It looks great! 

How is the front tire writing painted on?

About the ticking, I'm not sure what you mean. Does the ticking increase with the revs?

Great read. Thanks for sharing.

....I do have a few gripes with the article though:

-They lump the 3rd gen and the 4th gen into the same category. So many great things about these 2 gen VFR's that they should be separated and talked about individually.

 

-It says the 5th gen was the gutsiest of them all with tons of torque, but the 750's had more torque.

 

-"...the VFR also gained the RC45’s fuel injection system and a whole heap more midrange." 750's had more midrange too. 

 

-Not one RWB model pictured in the entire article

 

-Not even one mention of Naca ducts. Sacrilege! 😅

Was it one of the unicorn K&N filters like I've got?


Also, anyone know why my Pipercross filter is different colors than all of the others I always see?
 

11 hours ago, Himble said:

No, the DSH95 is a dark metallic grey, which matches the colour of the heat shield.

Ah! I see. Thanks man 👍

12 hours ago, Himble said:

 

 

With the help of a local Honda motorcycle restorer and long time friend, I have obtained a can of enamel paint which very closely matches the OEM paint colour on the shield.  I've since removed the existing paint and the underlying rust trails and will respray the shield tomorrow.

For those that are interested, the paint is Dupli-Color DSH95.  It's commonly available here in Oz.

Cheers

 

 That DSH95 matches the red paint? 

Can't seem to find it online anywhere but down under 😥

Here is the finished product. Seb really does quality work. 😍

 

 

 

So I finally had a free day and got crackin on the clutch cover.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Removing the clutch cover was a bit tough. It was really stuck on there, and I really had to yank on it to get it off. 

 

Usually I find the most difficult and tedious process of doing something like this is removing the old gasket material but it came off surprisingly easily with my new gasket scraper tool.

 

After that it was time to pop off the old clutch plate and spring bolts.

 

 

I inspected the clutch disks and plates and they seemed fine. The Clutch springs measured within spec but they had this strange yellowish goop on them. 

 

 

 I thought maybe it was paint but it came off with some light scrubbing. 🤷‍♂️ I don't know.

 

Now this is where I hit a bit of a road block. The bearing that sits in the clutch plate would not go in easily...and by easily I mean it did not want to go in at all. it came off the old clutch plate easily but I couldn't put it in the new one at all.
I tried everything. Heating the plate and putting the bearing in the freezer. trying to smoothen out the inside of the plate. Light tapping....nothing. 

I ended up tapping it in there pretty hard. It was the only way. 

 

 

The bearing now feels a bit notchy when I spin it 🤦‍♂️ 

 

So I've buttoned it up for now and the bike feels fine, but I'll have to order a new bearing and polish up the old clutch plate and go back and replace them.

 

 

 

On 7/18/2020 at 6:04 PM, SEBSPEED said:

Put the cover on, you're good to go. You can change the clutch springs through the window without pulling the whole cover, too.

ooooooh yeeeeeah! I didn't even think about that, 😲

 The large O-Ring for the window is reusable?

Sorry for the late reply. Been busy. 

Lots of great replies and helpful info. Thank you so much.😉
Good to hear that some of the clutch issues that were mentioned on here were much higher KM's than what I currently got. 

I'll take a gander at the plates when I'm in there and see if they look glazed 👍

1 hour ago, iLikeThat said:

Taking off the cover is not really "in there" for a clutch swap. No point in switching out the clutch when it isn't worn out. If you want you can take out the clutch and measure the wear according to manual specs and change the clutch if it is on the last stretch. Otherwise I wouldn't bother.

 You're right that it's not really "in there" but I will be "there" if you know what I mean.

I'll already have the clutch cover off. I'll already have the 5 bolts and clutch springs out to install the nicer looking clutch plate and bolts.

 

Changing the clutch plates and/or springs at that point is just easier. But is it a waste of money at this point 

So I have been sitting on one of Sebs clear clutch covers for awhile now (not literally sitting on it of course)

Now, before I install it I have been really huming and hawing over whether I should replace some, if not all, of the clutch bits while I am in there. 

For the record my 2000 VFR has about 66,000kms (41,000miles) on her. My ownership has been about 20k kms (13k miles) of happy life.

It has had a few previous owners. I have an inkling that the bike may have been tinkered with in the past. Looks like it may have had a Power Commander on it previously. I think the o2's are disconnected. Airbox mods, Pipe, K&N air filter etc etc

 

I don't beat on the bike and maybe WOT rip it hard once in awhile. I don't do clutch ups or wheelies or anything.

 

A few years back I took her on a loaded road trip through America. It performed flawlessly on roads like Pikes Peak and Beartooth.
(See ride report below)

 

 I can say that throughout my road trips and entire ownership I have never had an issue with the clutch (knock on wood)

 

So I am currently stuck between 2 schools of thought. 

1. Don't fix what ain't broke

So in this case I'll just swap on Seb's clutch cover and be done.

 

2. May aswell while you're in there

In this case I'll install new friction plates and clutch springs.

 

The other option is to just replace the clutch springs. From my search on the forums it look as though when people experience slippage, the springs are usually the likely culprit, and they aren't very expensive.

I don't plan on getting rid of the bike ever.

 

 What is everyones thoughts?

 

17 hours ago, Grum said:

Coolant maybe but Brake and Clutch fluid definelty replace it, never greater than every 2 years, the more frequent the better. There seems to be no end of brake system horror stories caused by not replacing the fluid by two years max.

Really? Interesting. I haven't heard of any horror stories related to not changing brake fluid.

It is a good idea though. I agree with ya there. They are what stop us afterall

3 hours ago, rtho782 said:

Basically all the things, but for example it's the first time the final drive oil is changed, and the coolant.

 

Really? Oh. 

 Hmmmm....just my opinion but I feel like 24k miles is a bit early to replace the coolant.
Does the Brake fluid look dark? 

13 hours ago, rtho782 said:

Just booked it in for it's 24,000 mile service.... I knew this was a big one but £650!! fml 😞

 

What exactly does the 24,000 mile service entail?

I find most dealerships, both cars and bikes, like to charge for them to "inspect" things, which some techs just do a cursory glance. 

On 7/3/2020 at 2:48 PM, mello dude said:

If you do the delete, please do it properly with a fork swap and upgrade the rear caliper.

I am not a fan of the kits that just replumb the hydraulics.

 

 I'm just curious, what is it exactly about re-plumbing the brake hydraulics to de-link the brakes that you aren't a fan of?

Unless I was riding for a day or more I rarely rode with the bags on it. But after a pickup truck knocked over my bike in a parking lot, and the bags took the brunt of the fall, I always ride with them on. 

So they serve as both a great way to carry stuff, and giant frame sliders. 

I'll have to attach my go pro to the back of my bike and get some audio 

Hello fellow Popping/gurgling exhaust noises friend 😎

 

I'll come clean here too. When I was looking for a VFR I test rode a few 4th and 5th gens. I purchased the one I have now because the exhaust pops and cracks and I just luuvvvvvv it 😍

 

Sometimes when shifting gears a decent sized crack comes out the exhaust. When I'm slowing down in gear it burbles and pops. I don't know why 🤔 But it sounds heavenly. 💖

It has a 2 brothers high mount, The rest of the exhaust is stock. Still has the cat. It had a K&N filter in it. I swapped in a Pipercross and installed fresh non-iridium plugs and it cracked a tad more.

When I had my 4th gen I did the PAIR delete and my exhaust didn't pop any less but, like you, I don't wanna do it to my bike and lose my pops!

9 hours ago, coupedupsubie said:

You won't get rid of the pop and crackle on a 4th gen because it has carburetors. I recently got mine running smooth and it pops and crackles more on decel.

It's my understanding that the PAIR system introduces fresh air into the exhaust ports to burn off any unburned fuel vapor/exhaust gases. The fresh air ignites the leftover fuel vapor in the exhaust. 💥

 

Whether the Fuel vapor gets in there by Fuel Injection or by Carburetors seem to me is inconsequential. 🤔

Back to my 4th gen, when I did the pair removal I bought a kit on Ebay with the block off plates and rubber vaccum caps. I only did it because I was dyno-ing the bike and wanted an accurate A/F reading.  

I did the snorkel (iirc) and I definitely did the Pair removal on my old 4th gen and noticed no difference. Even the pops and cracks on Decel didn't lessen. 🤔

I did the flapper and snorkel on both my 5th and 6th gen and didn't notice anything.

 

My current 5th gen has the flapper mod done but the Snorkel is still attached.

 

Your mileage may vary

Very nice write up! Thanks for sharing.

I have been using the same Endurance tank bag for over 10 years.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The stitching that held the magnets in tore after so many years and I lost a couple magnets. I loved it so much I managed to find a almost new one on Ebay and scooped it up.

 

Here's to another 10+ years.

 

Welcome fellow Ontarionite. 

Post some pics of the VFR for us all to see

Great ride report! Makes me want to re-visit Ohio.

I went about 8 years ago for a 2 day trip after hearing about the 555/Triple Nickle. I took my ol' trusty 4th gen with a top box and a tank bag. Started bright and early in Toronto, hit the border in Buffalo into the US and slabbed it to Zanesville. Then I took the 555 south till it ended at the Ohio river, and spent the night in Marietta.

 

In the morning I took the 26 east. I don't recall what others roads I took but I do remember I took the 536 up to 78 (because I have a picture) 

 

I do recall the Ohio roads being a mix of "Wheee!" and "Whoa!". Gravel and dirty at times as you mentioned TimC. Also the 536 when I road it 8 years ago was real bumpy and broken up in places. I can totally feel you when you say these roads can be a 6/10ths riding pace. 
I very specifically remember one corner somewhere had signs showing that a hard right turn was coming, with arrows and caution signs pointing right....but the road went left. I though I had imagined it but when I went back through my GoPro footage I confirmed it. lol 😄 Very strange place Ohio. 

 

Thanks again for the report TimC 👍