YoshiHNS

All those features will require a ton of additional sensors added to the bike. For development, a Pi or Beagle would be fine, but you might end up having to design your own board to reduce the footprint and get the layout you need.

Good luck with this project. I would suggest to just go with good ole hardware buttons and forget the touchscreen. Maybe not great for address entry, but for a bike it would be much easier to deal with.

I thought fast acting was in terms of fuses. Either the fuse would blow as soon as it was over powered, or it would take a few seconds to blow.

How about our resident drag strip runner give them a shot after he gets his dyno done on everything he has done so far. The bearings are going to be cheaper than a port and polish methinks.

Color me still skeptical about a 3-5 hp gain with wheel bearing change. But that's just me.

I would be less skeptical about the friction coated ceramics. Not all bearings are created equal. It is a bit hard to imagine that the rotating mass in a bearing is at all significant compared to the rest of the wheel, but friction is friction. Maybe 5HP from switching out the transmission bearings is more likely and not the wheel bearings.

From what I've read, the bearings are still the steel and chrome races with ceramic balls.

Bringing this one back from the dead. Spotthedog posted this up on the VTR250 forum.

http://vtr250.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&p=6601&sid=7686ab2ccee614d38d53de4d51975a00#p6599

One of the threads I read is quoted below. I can't remember what I read that netted 5% but that may be optimistic.

Fianlly a trusted source has dynoed these gains. Thanks Tommy Micili, a kick-ass drag pilot/builder:

http://www.cqcmagazine.com/jul-05/citizen/index.htm

"I just did a Ceramic wheel bearing test on a 2007 GSXR 1000 2 days ago. We made numerous pulled on the bike then pulled the rear wheel and replaced the wheel bearings with WWB (World Wide Bearings, Inc) ceramics. The bike picked up just over 3 HP at peak but picked up 6 pounds of torque. This increase is shown through out the entire range. I will have the results up on our website in a couple of days. Here are some results on the same test I did on a 2006 ZX10.
http://www.psndealer.com/dealers....ngs.jpg

"Both of these bikes had under 100 miles on them. I have also tested these bearing in my stock 2000 Busa which had 10,000 miles on it and the gains were between 4 and 5 HP. I did another test on my busa in which I disassembleld the motor and Microblue coated the internals and put ceramics in the the trans, that mod netted 12 HP. I have dyno sheets on all of my tests and I'm happy to pass them on. PM me if you have any questions.
"95% of all Prostock race vehicles in every form of motorsports run ceramic bearings wherever possible. If they didn't work they wouldn't be using them. These guys are the best in the world and they believe in the benefits of Ceramic bearing over conventional bearings.

"Microblue is a friction fighting coating that we use on anything that moves. Microblueracing.com is the website. Ask for Craig and tell him I sent you, he can educate you best on these coatings.

The bearings are still really pricey. But considering how they are still less than a full exhaust system, it's not that bad for those in the hunt for more HP.

The all balls site has the fork conversion. You look up your bike and it gives the steering head bearing ID, OD, and heights, and those of other bikes that are or are close to the same. It's up to you to figure out which bearings you need to use and decide if it is really going to work.

It gives you bearing stack heights, not stem lengths.

Right, just bearing dimensions. So it will give you an idea if a different stem even has a chance to fit. Still need to get the stem lengths and compare.

The all balls site has the fork conversion. You look up your bike and it gives the steering head bearing ID, OD, and heights, and those of other bikes that are or are close to the same. It's up to you to figure out which bearings you need to use and decide if it is really going to work.

Wow. Someone really wanted those forks on that bike. And I'm a little bit confused on what's going on with the top stem nut, er..bolt?

Also, last time I glanced at them, I thought you could get a set of 929 triples for closer to $150 if you were patient.

Keith. Looks like you have to find an axle that will fit into the 5th gen eccentric correctly. I know I sent pictures showing how the VFR and one of the ducati axles won't work (I'll have to look up which one I got). I can't be too much help checking my parts as they are all buried while we finish the flooring in the attic.

You have to have a full drawing or they can't do anything. Just google search for a machine shop. And be warned that half of them do not know what they are doing.

a custom set of triples, one off, should be between $400-$600, depending on how fancy you get.

Yes, you can manually machine them. I actually designed mine with manual machining in mind. It just takes longer. Also have to be careful of who's doing it. Might find another shop who's going to miss machining the triples by 1mm.

Well, you either have to adapt the wheels/rotors/calipers to the VFR spacing, or just change the location of the bores when you are machining. If you are manually machining it, it is a slight nuisiance since you have to keep the wall around the forks consistent for all spacing values. But the other way you have to space rotors differently and adjust wheel spacers.

Wow. Just realized that I never measured the diameter of the eccentric. That was only a slight 'oops'. I'll have to see about getting that size today when I stop at the house.

I did find a suggestion that the 1098/1198 eccentric is 112mm diameter. The 848 is smaller, maybe 98mm.

http://www.ducati.ms/forums/56-superbikes/143980-eccentric-hub-dimensions-single-sided-swingarms-2.html

From this CF post, it looks like the 4th gen VFR is 105mm diameter, triumph is the same, and the RC45 is 117mm. If the 5th gen is the same as the RC45, then there isn't a direct swap eccentric from what we have looked at so far.

http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1610978

Well, you could always put that shim in there like someone showed recently. Not my first choice of action though. Maybe the 1098/1198 eccentrics are larger diameter? The axles should be different diameters, so maybe the eccentrics are as well. They are a bit pricey on the ebay to just buy one and see, and it's more miss than hit on a seller that will give you dimensions.

I am thinking of sending a spare 5G frame to Italy to ask them to modify the triples for me. I may have to purchase a run of them to get them made this way but we would know for sure the yare the factory offset and would be perfect for 54/50 USD forks.

Wait. You're going to mail the entire frame to italy to have triples made? Sounds a bit excessive. Hell, I've had triples drawn up for a while and planned to machine them. Except the one small CNC mill needs a new screen before we can test it, the other small one was wired wrong by the electrician and doesn't work right either, and the two big ones always have work on them.

What is the end goal? Steering stops correct, ignition mount, 50/54 bores, VFR offset, VFR spacing? I always thought it would make more sense to leave the fork spacing to whatever the donor forks were.

Just thought about it. Do my 4th gen numbers line up with the 5th gen stuff? Are the eccentrics the same OD even?

No. I just need to figure out a time when I can get into the shop and the machine is open. My last many visits to the shop have been actual work stuff and not personal project fun. I have a ducati axle to measure things up to, and the triumph axle to machine. Have to remember where I have the ducati nut and cone to check everything to.

It's just a time issue. I might be able to sneak in something really early Saturday morning, but no idea what machines are going to be open or how long it will take to dig up the tooling. I think I figured a way to do the drive pins in one shot, but until I try there's no way to know. And I haven't seriously looked at how to hold the axle for machining.

I'll call the one shop and see if they can do the drive pins that I asked them to do before November sometime soon.

Don't get me wrong, I wasn't taking a stance for or against linked braking systems, I was just pointing out that if someone thought that their "mushy" brakes were due to them being linked, that this wasn't necessarily the issue. I just used your post as the reply option as your comment of "effe these linked brakes" caught my eye. I totally get, "to each his own" but I think that proper bleeding and better lines is the key to removing the "mushy" feeling, not getting rid of the linked brakes themselves...

Not so much 'linked brakes cause mushy levers', but 'linked brakes are a PITA to bleed to get a firm lever'.

Try Coremoto if the usual names don't have anything. I think you can get custom length lines from them as well.

There probably aren't any kits because of the linked braking system. Not as easy as three lines running from point A to B.

Bleeding the linked brake system isn't exactly easy either.

The lever is mushy? Then you need to bleed your brakes. If it's still mushy, you still have air in the lines.

This needs to be flagged as porn.

:wub2: :wub2: