YoshiHNS

For 5th gen (and probably 6th gen), 1098 works better. For 4th gen, 848 fits with mismatched parts. Have to consider wheel/tire clearance on the 4th gen, which was meant for a smaller wheel than the 5th gen.

When I went to Mid-Ohio a few weeks ago, they had to implement a ban on ALL oil filters with the nut. Not just K&N, since the same company really makes all of them rebranded.

Two bikes with them had them pop at the track. Sticking with OEM pays off.

Hi YoshiHNS,

Thank you for your donation of 50.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.

Thanks VFRDiscussion

No pics or measurements needed, just to confirm that the wheel is supposed to fit right on the drive pins and have little to no movement on them, without putting the cone and nut on.

Here's a question for you Murray, since I don't know how it's supposed to exactly fit.

The 848 wheel is driven by the four pins. Does it also locate the wheel? When I repaired my wheel, I also had an 848 axle to test fit it, and the wheel is rock solid. No movement in any direction whatsoever. I took this as I did a good job re-cutting the holes for the pins in the right location.

But then there's the cone washer that sits against the wheel. Originally, the nut and cone were two different parts. I took this as the cone could shift a bit and settle into the wheel if it was slightly off. But then, that means that the wheel may not be perfectly concentric with the axle.

Aftermarket parts have the cone and nut as one piece, meaning the cone will push the wheel to be concentric with the axle. But if the drive pins or holes on the wheel for them are slightly off, then there will be an overconstrained condition. So are the holes for the pins supposed to be slightly loose to account for this? Or is everything really made to that good of a tolerance? How did your wheel fit up?

Pretty sure I remember SSBurns programming one at TMAC this year on his 4th gen.

They didn't seem to spend a lot of thought on what went in the quoted sections. And they could have shown or talked about some of the real fine details that are easy to miss from pictures of the whole bike.

That's too small of a frame for that engine. You need to do something more to the SAE Formula scale.

Move on to the next bike magazine. There are surely a couple others out there that are worthwhile.

The cush drive is a sweet idea. I might have to give it a go.

How do I submit to those blog thingies?

Click blog at the header below the banner. Top right has a button for 'create blog'. Do the agree thing and start filling it out.

switching between the stock and finished pics, the tank really makes a huge difference. Stock 4g tank would not have worked at all.

That's coming to tmac right?

It looks even better in person!

And avoid Stewarts at all costs

Why do you need to put an analog pressure gauge there? There wasn't a gauge before, why does the kit come with one (or require one)?

Go look at the thing I rescued. That's way too much.

If it's running, clean title, and looks like it was actually maintained in any sort, $800 absolute tops.

If you are doing significant modifications to the bike (AKA track or SF), it saves a ton of space, and 1lb of weight maybe.

Unless you are running too hot, why is it even something you are going to mess with? There's a thread on here about running without one IIRC. So unless you have temp issues or want to relocated it, I wouldn't mess with it, yet.

There are very few of those bikes that I would even want to sit on, let alone own.

I'm pretty sure I've seen that mad max VF before, so maybe it isn't even one of their builds. It looks like it's much better done than the rest, so that would suggest so.

Did you test that meat thermometer? I bought one, and it wasn't close to being accurate. When a glass of ice water registered at 24F, it got tossed in the 'not for flight' parts bin.

An actual update. After a few months, I finally have the last parts for the swap.

Just have to set a weekend aside to machine the threads and press everything together.

So there is now no breather tube??

Would that not cause problems of some sort?

I believe he said he put in a breather line routed to the airbox.

Think you can give a few details on some of those items.

The welch plug. I was looking at that when I started the electric water pump conversion, but figured that would be a job for the lathe. Got any info or pictures on it? Anything to reduce machining time is great.

For your 848 conversion, did you do the same spacer arrangement I determined? I'm still waiting on those longer drive pins. Oh what I'd do for access to a nice Hardinge.

The in tank pump. Was that just a cut and fit? I saw one person who did an FI conversion actually make a separate tank that was just gravity fed from the original and put the in tank pump in there. Sounded heavier and more stuff to hide, but a somewhat simple way around the problem.

Why the rear valve cover swap?

Race season came to an end, no? ;) can't wait to see something new on this thread :)

Race season just started back up

Is the angle an issue? So the mirror will sit lower. But looking at that picture, the 8g are a fair amount lower than the 6th gen. The angle the mounts are at look to be similar. Difference is the 8g bend down, where the 6th gen go straight.

Are those even real pictures of the bikes? Didn't know the 6th gen came with 80/20 tires.