redmarque

I've got one of these for my Tig setup. It's only a light duty 150 amp, but enough for what I use it for. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Oerlikon-Citig-1500-AC-DC-Tig-Welder-Auto-Helmet_W0QQitemZ370279228025QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_3?hash=item56365ca279 Bought a WP-20 small head watercooled torch for it too. Watercooler is made from a pair of honda firestorm Rad's and a central heating pump from ebay... works well. :biggrin:

Very, Mr Hossack is a living legend in my book.. Here's hoping he's receptive to some vfrdiscussion!

Very nice job you've done there. Top marks! :warranty:

What the Whyte PRST 4? yeah I want one! You can't pedal standing up (honk) very well but they 'float' over anything rough x-country. have a look at the new whyte bike's rear quad-link/tara swingarm works. Whyte was a ex-F1 benetton suspension designer. Done rear's for Marin bikes too. :fing02:

Thanks RC Some how I thought you'd know him. afterall you knew his work email address! Yes i've done a bit of research on him and looked at quite a few of his designs. For the others reading this thread might be interested in seeing the MOD bike and his BMW conversion on youtube: Hossack on youtube Also the Whyte Mountain bike PRST series which I think is based on his ideas: I found it a real shame that BMW stuffed him over with regards to his patents, but that's big corporations for you... :fing02: The BMW 'Duolever' design doesn't do his system justice either. most test riders say it's 'numb' I'd be honoured to have Norman's input or whatever he can spare, or if he's fedup/had enough then will undersand. I'll message you my details in a min. Many thanks, Red.

Hi RC46, Are you lucky enough to know Norman H personally? I would like to have a conversation with him but only announced/introduced (call me old fashioned) :fing02:

Cheers shrek. Always liked the TL1000S+R. nice stompy motor... sound the business with racecans on too.

My! One day without electricity here and a whole page of thread appears! Some good discussion too! :rolleyes:

Yep that's type of thing.. as Seb suggests have one rad at the front and one at the back. The Britten.. now that's a motorcycle! (think I'd better go lay down now. Phew)

Top man! :comp13: that could work well. Any chance you could have a measure up on your TLR? :fing02:

Yeah that's good Seb, like your thinking... Kinda DIY setup of how the Ducati streetfighter radiators layout Apreciate the effort you took with MS Paint BTW

Good Questions Pete! I had to look it up. The .30 in 4130 is the average percentage of carbon in the steel. Apparently "it is difficult to make a weld that does not crack or does not have hidden inclusions or occlusions in the weld." with more that .30% I plan on using 1 inch 1.5mm wall CFS 5 BK (Carbon Manganese) which has .23% carbon and has a tensile strengh of 600 N/mm2 Yes, it's difficult to get small lengths from stockholders in the UK too. luckly the fabricator that welded my last frame has quite a few off-cuts. but still the tube i'm using comes in 15m lengths! Will have to do a bit of hunting to find En24 Steel in small quanities.

Sounds promising.. a bit like a benelli tornado with under seat mount rad and fans? Or.. how about a couple of ktm 640/superduke side ones? mounted at a slight top tipped over and inwards? could add a small rad under the seat too for extra cooling like you say?

Yes.. I'd like a more V -shaped radiator but have yet to find an suitable rad from another bike that would fit the space. Could always add a mesh guard over it though?

I can analyze assemblies. Excellent! once i've added more detail i'll PM you to discuss 'virtual' breakage :comp13:

Couple of small updates. purchased a set of 04-06 R1 Raidal Calipers. I'll need to modify the hossack fork design to fit these! :offtopic: measured/added the Ducati 748/916 Radiator to the model. Packaging packaging!

More work in progress.. Proposed design to hold the horisontal jig tubes level.

Ok 6061 ally tube one it is then! better brush up my tig skills. :fing02:

Yep, this is one for the NC30 something like this: (but definatly not the paint job :blink: ) Tyga Performance

Designed the rear subframe... single seater only this time. next which seat unit should I use? Seen some nice one's by tyga for a NC30

OK! things that really fried my noodle on MK1 were the rear engine mounts! Mr Honda decided that they should be of different heights and not in line with each other. :laugh: Solution: keep the frame symetrical and use mounting plates to to allow for the difference. Note the left offset of the rear shock top mount- single sided swingarms though looking good cause headaches!

15ft? that's a pretty tight turn to be doing at 35mph? but understand what you mean I think! Can you analyze an assembly of parts with solidworks?

Kinda.. i made this stand so that the exhaust could stay on and everything would be level. even has a cut-out for the drain plug When i've stripped the old frame i'll put it on the scales and let you know. I remember weighing it before, but without the stearing assembly attached to the frame; it was about the same as stock IIRC. New frame 'should' be bit lighter.

Here's the new bench I've made for the new build.. nice and flat. Top is 5mm thick rolled steel. note the giant t-square used to re-measure the engine with.

Jamie.... :laugh: Sometimes the 'Mate' proccess in SW can be a pain.. (or more likely my understanding of it) Designed/added the steering linkage; it's now put the ball joint/fork position out of place. :cool: Will need to add some 2mm stiffening plates to the arms. pivots; using M8 rodends Do you guy's think it's worth perchasing radial calipers to use with the 296mm braking wavy discs, or should I continue with the conventional yamaha blue spot ones I had before? bear in mind the master cylinder is 2005 R6 brembo radial model.