Tightwad

When I did the this mod (all 6 filaments burning) myself a year or so ago, I checked battery voltage. With all 6 lights, grip heaters on high, and my GPS on, I was actually discharging the battery. I think it was around 11.7 volts DC, but this was at idle. I haven't done any "beefin' up of da wires" but it was up close to 13 volts at 4k rpm. So, I now don't ride with the high beams on like I use to, and I never sit and idle (stop sign or stop light) with the high beams on either. The light output is GREAT, and I have no plans of ever going back to stock. YMMV

Discharging at a low idle (under 1300) isn't uncommon or even wrong. I figured out how to make a 3rd part that would allow me to chose(on install) or change later from option to option. (move red wire from HB to LB onto the HB input, as it is OEM, using a short pigtal cable, leaving that pin empty)

I did the mod a while ago and must say I liked it better before. The problem is the low beam filament is designed for the reflector. I found that with my high beams on I loose the light directly in front of the bike. With my low beams I can see the road nice and clear (Pot holes other road hazards) but when I put on the high beams I get a dark spot about 30ft in front of the bike. Lots of light way out but not where you need it in my opinion.

Im going to set it back to stock wiring and install a set of HID in the low beams.

just my .02

I wondered about the focus, and honestly haven't ridden at night yet to check. I think you will find the HID mod doesn't help either, as the reflector is definitely not designed for HID and you get holes in the vision.

Undoing the MOD wouldn't be that hard really, although it would require terminal end changing.

On to the actual modding....First thing I did was blatently take the work of others and apply it to my situation. In this case banned! created a mod, it was lost some time ago, and Darth Bling recreated it here: Original Head Light Mod Thead I liked his Schematic...which I am terribly at drawing:

From this I determined I needed:

DPDT headlight capable relay...check

Wire...Check

Connectors...Check....errr...not all of them

Just looking for clearification, is that schematic from Darth's thread? Which mod does it represent?(EDIT: It is the LB-HB/HB) Why do you need a DPDT relay when the schematic shows a SPDT?

Neat mod though, if I ever take the front end of my bike apart, I might just do this.

Good catch, I meant SPDT, and that is what I used. That is the Schematic from Darths Thread, as mentioned. It is the LB-HB/HB as the 6 filament mod doesn't require a change in relay.

After reading all the various headlight mod threads, most particularly Fixers(may he be banned for all time as needed) version, I decided to make the jump and upgrade my headlight...utilizing the unused High Beam filament in the 2002+ assembly. As with all mods I do, I like to stay 100% plug and play, and if possible make it easy to replicate (or for sale....).

I won't bore you with pictures of the Nose Fairing removal....just a warning that this mod took 3 weeks and isn't done....my side fairings have been off so long I am getting tickets for indecent exposure. Not all pictures will be used, but you can check them out here Wiremybike Headlight Mod Slideshow

HL = HeadLight

LB = Low Beam

HB = High Beam

LB-LB/HB = Low Beam or Low Beam AND High Beam

First thing to do is decide...do you want to go from LB-LB/HB to LB-HB/HB or LB-LB/HB/HB (6 filaments).....Having 6 filaments going in high beam can be a bit of a stress, about 8 more amps worth. As this would only be when you are using High Beams it should not be an issue....but it is YOUR choice.

I chose to go for the LB-HB/HB option...which you would think would be easier/cheaper than the 6 filament option, but it isn't. It requires a different HB relay. Not a problem, I have dozens of them from the VFRness/Auxiliary Fuse Panel kit building. My Garage is NOT neat/clean/eat off the floor worthy(not that I haven't at times), but I like it....I call it my Mad Scientist shop:

On to the actual modding....First thing I did was blatently take the work of others and apply it to my situation. In this case banned! created a mod, it was lost some time ago, and Darth Bling recreated it here: Original Head Light Mod Thead I liked his Schematic...which I am terribly at drawing:

From this I determined I needed:

SPDT headlight capable relay...check

Wire...Check

Connectors...Check....errr...not all of them

I had to special order from overseas the HL Terminals. I bought enough for 15 HL upgrade harnesses...I will get more when/if needed. Working backwards the finished result is this:

Headlight Mod, 2002+ allowing High Beam in all 4 bulbs on high:

This same kit, minus the Red wire and Relay bits allows 6 filaments on High Beam....LOTS of light:

To install is just a matter of undoing and redoing the wiring loom. First locate the HB and LB relays....they are here (far right is LB, far left is HB..this is post install so the HB relay is different):

Remove the tape from the LB and HB relays, and from the HL connectors(Low Beam only)

We start with the HB relay...remove it and it's rubber overcoat from the bike, and disconnect it:

next remove the wires from the connector...sounds simple doesn't it??? well first I made this little shim, from a piece of a computer power supply casing. You could probably use something else....jewelers screwdriver perhaps:

Simply slide it down the back side of the terminal, where the catch is, and pull the wire out. Don't force it, things don't go well when you do that. Trust me:

http://wiremybike.com/Slideshows/VFR%20200...g_terminals.jpg

After all are removed, toss the relay and connector aside....you can keep them for spare somethings later...now you have wires like this:

See that Red w/black wire? That connectors your LB and HB relays. We don't want it to do that, so we clip off the LB side of the wire (double check, then check again)

Next disconnect the LB relay, and remove the other end of that Red w/black wire. Discard it as well, we won't be needing it anymore.

From here on my pictures, and my kit are not 100% the same, as I was not afraid to solder connectors right on my bike, especially as I had to be at work and needed lights.....but you get the same place either way....

Now we need to start connecting stuff back together. First we install the OEM wires into the included relay connector:

Red w/black(that we cut the one wire off) goes to pin #30 (power in)

OEM blue wire goes to pin 86 (this is from the HB switch)

Green goes to pin 85 (ground)

Red wire from kit goes to pin 87A (Low Beam on standard)

Blue wire with pigtail goes to in 87 (high beam)

The original Blue w/Black wire then plugs into the pigtail.

Red wire from kit(other end) plugs into the LB relay, and plug it back in.

Using double sided tape already on Relay, mount it where the OEM HB relay was located.

Route the new Blue wire along the LB harnesses, shorter side is for the LH side of the bike(if sitting on it, not when looking at the relays) Re-tape the harness to make it pretty, using Electrical tape (not Duct/Galfers tape, not matter how much you love it).

Unwrapped left side:

Next open the little tabs on the LB headlight connectors...see the empty spot?:

Thats where our new Blue wire goes:

I had to use pliars to adjust the terminal just a bit so it would fit in, then to seat it as well:

Once finished, repeat with the other side, finished result should look like this:

From here on its a cake walk....just button everything back up, and enjoy your now Modded lights.

This MOD is NOT reversible without some electrical knowledge, but has no reason to BE reversed either. I have not yet worked out how to make the LB-LB/HB/HB or LB-HB/HB option user selectable with a switch, but it could be done to invoke the extra 2 filaments only when desired. Wouldn't be hard, just not done yet.

This mod is for sale, if you don't wish to repeat the build process.

$20 for the LB-HB/HB mod, $15 for the 6 filament mod, plus shipping of course.

Click here to buy

Thanks all for the kind words!

For those who are interested, based on user feedback I have shortened the 12 gauge wires another 2 inches to try to save space.

Fishing pole support?

I would suggest combining the two bike wires into one end of a Crimp butt connector, and the Yamaha end into the other. Use 12 gauge wire for the Yamaha side.

I personally like a 16-14 gauge seamless butt connector, and use solder after crimping it and cover in shrink tubing. If you need a few, and will cover shipping, i can send them to you...I have lots.

The Group Buy is on! We have until 4/18/09 to solidfy the order count. See this thread for more details http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=50205

Discount depends on order quantity, so if you are thinking of a Pro Oiler for your VFR or another bike, or have a friend who is, jump on in!

No. It is what it is. Any further down, and one would prolly just paint the stocker. I like how it flows, on MY bike.

Fair enough, I have no need for one (at this time) so I was just commenting. I will say the quality looks up to the high standards I saw in my Bug Buster

Can it be angled down a bit more? It looks like it points straight out, and doesn't flow "Naturally"

I put my drawing skills to work today, after figuring out how to incorporate both the "Manual off" and "Forced on" options into one DPDT switch.

The switch is the lines at the top left, switch up would turn the fan on, switch down the fan would never come on. I pictured a "normal" 5 wire relay, because they are cheaper than a 4 wire NC relay.

Using the relay would mean that 6th gen's could use this mod too, as the relay would switch the high current?

The 98 and the 02 models use the same thermo switch. The Relay is really not needed, but it reduces the switch count to 1. Both bikes work by grounding the fan using the Thermo switch, this just allows you to do it earlier, or not at all.

I had a manual bypass switch on my V65 Magna that worked pretty well. I used this for a year with great results. Then, someone over on V4HondaBBS.com found that a fanstat switch from an Accura Integra (i forget what year) would screw right into my rad, and lower the fan turn-on temp by about 20 degrees! I installed one of these, and the bike hasn't even thought about overheating since. Maybe there is a similar solution here? Honda Civic, Accord, etc? Might be worth checking out....

Dave P.

I'll bet Tightwad could find one and put a kit together for us. Tightwad?

Other than possible changing a connector, this would be a simple modification. It would help if someone who worked for a dealer could investigate, as the only way most of us could do it would be by trial and error. I know when I sold autoparts we had specs for all the sensors etc. Back then I could have found one that worked, but I no longer have access to all those books etc.

I put my drawing skills to work today, after figuring out how to incorporate both the "Manual off" and "Forced on" options into one DPDT switch.

The switch is the lines at the top left, switch up would turn the fan on, switch down the fan would never come on. I pictured a "normal" 5 wire relay, because they are cheaper than a 4 wire NC relay.

Just looking at this thread again, because I've had the fairings on my 98 off and just replaced a faulty thermostat.

Auspañol you're idea of being able to turn the fan off would work perfectly! :fing02:

:laugh: Indeed this is a nice option. I have been playing with more high tech options that would allow a temporary override, but I think this would be better in most cases...just not as fun.

I have the fairings off my bike (again) doing a headlight mod, so If I remember I will take pictures of the wires needed, so they are easier to find. Should be easy to mod!

I am wondering if the SC kit would fit to my 6th gen with the frame slider in place?

There's no way it would work with that style of frame slider as that sits right where the belt runs. If you want to run frame sliders, they would have to mount further outboard or more towards the rear of the bike, where the frame bolts to the engine.

Never mind that the frame sliders pictures are basically useless, and guaranteed to crush your radiators on any impact....not where i would want a slider!

I got to see the results of this mod, very well done and clean as well!

Another option for your connectors would be to use a DB9 or DB15 or DB25 from a computer cable. Since the gauges are mostly low power the small wiring should be ok. You might even be able to use a Disk Drive cable that is flat...plenty of those connections to be had.

with ABS the only thing I put on that side is a Powerlet for charging the battery, or running roadside gear...non switched of course.

No harm getting the Recall harness put in. I should have mine done sometime....

having not eliminated mine....why are you reliminating it?

I did a similar install, but the button went under the windshield pillar....most people don't even see it. I don't worry about having my garage door opener on there because if they are in the garage with my bike, they can already get the door open. If they steal my bike, they have to bring it home to open the door.

B E A U tiful

Dang I am in love...and I am not usually a Supercharged person. What a nice kit, very well done! Now to talk the wife into a 5th gen with a supercharger....

Thats awesome

I chose Huggers on purpose, because the CF serves an eye-candy purpose, not a structural integrity purpose....if that chain were to whip loose, wrap around the sprocket and turn into a weedwhacker of sorts, the Hugger would be ripped off the mounts pretty quick...no matter the construction.

I am of course NOT saying they shouldn't be made of them, just pointing out that CF pretty parts (bar ends, whatever) serve only a visual purpose...much the way this fabric (CF real or fake who knows) does.

Still tempted to drop #35 on a yard of this, and see what it can do. I have a rashed body panel I was planning to practice my body work on...might be fun. I would think a resin layer over the top of some sort would be ideal, although that is beyond any knowledge I can pretend to have.

Isn't that sort of like getting silicone implants? Looks a bit better (personal taste I know), but you know it's not real. :laugh:

Sorry, the meds are wearing off.

DDO-VFR

The people complaining about the silicone implants are not the people enjoying them....right? If you like the look, does it matter if it is true Carbon Fiber? Obviously Carbon Fiber for a dash panel is form over function, as it would be way overkill to truly make a dash piece of carbon fiber (or a wheel hugger....whatever).

I generally dislike Carbon Fiber, but as a way to cover Road Rash in an inexpensive manner the Tightwad in me approves, if it can be done in a lasting way.