Tightwad

I found the schematics/instructions for one that was developed for an RC51 initially, then adapted to the ST and the VFR. I am thinking of trying it out, looks like a fun build.

http://www.speedzilla.com/forums/rc51-general-discussion/43866-my-home-built-rc51-gear-position-indicator-includes-plans-1.html

I found a great replacement for the Honda part, and at only a fraction of the price from www.bikebolts.com. You can also find them on my website.

These don't require any drilling etc, and work in all but the thickest locations!

Pictures? Better excuses for not having it fitted this afternoon???

I am sure you are envied by most of the other VFR owners now...

Basically, there's a guy @ the other end of the country (Dave) who I'd like to do the work... he's not available until then!

Once done the bike'll be:

VFR 800 Fi1

AA Perf supercharger

Ohlins rear

Staintunes

V-Tec front

PCIII

Givi wingrack

Zumo 660

I'm sorry...did I just drool on my keyboard? :goofy:

Pictures? Better excuses for not having it fitted this afternoon???

I am sure you are envied by most of the other VFR owners now...

After quite a few commutes to work and back, and I enjoying these pegs...even at short distances. I have also gotten compliments from a number of my co-workers, who liked the clean look. I am short enough that the pegs make it a bit more work to not lean on the bars, as my legs take up less of my body support, but that is probably all in my Genes...I am only 5' 8", with short legs (30" inseam).

Green or brown wire. I'm assuming the long blue wire off of the fuse block is used for this...

I believe the wire you want is brown with a blue stripe, and yes, use the long blue wire. Part of the kit is a T-tap that you wrap around that wire, then crimp closed with pliars. This forms a female connection the male in of the blue wire will mate with.

Well, I am two days in to riding with the new lowered pegs. I am VERY impressed with the level of detail that has been taken, and with the thoroughness of Randy in the design and tweaks being made. I am uploading some pictures to my Photobucket account, and will link them here for an initial view....these are "under development" pictures, so the final product is still changing a bit.

I think the new tapered design is much sportier than the Buell version, and fits more with the VFR. The peg bolts up with zero problems, and I had just enough adjustment in the brake pedal to move it without having to take the assembly apart and shorten the rod. I also adjusted (after the first day) the brake light switch....opps. Shifter was easy to adjust, remove it and drop it down a couple teeth, until it is about level with the ground.

OEM:

Lowered:

As an aside...how much tooling was required to start using that lathe? where do you source your material?

The last time I did any machine shop work i was in college and had it all right there for me.

20 - 8 = 12 mm x 2 = 24 mm which is just about an inch.

Sometimes an inch can make all the difference in the world. Ask your wife/girlfriend. :happy:

I don't about you guys, but if 24mm is enough to make-or-break, I'd be rethinking what I'm trying to move my bike through.

Or open the other door...you did say they were double doors.

I understand on the bar end length, as I have a vista cruise that takes up a bit of mine, but my hands aren't that big so it isn't an issue.

I wish I had a lathe and mill

Hey glenn does the OLD SKOOL dude still have them ))))) willing to send them West.

Would be a great addition to take the Summer Summit In August

Hi Axel,

PM sent.

Glenn

I too am interested, are the bars included/available?

Very nice! I know of a CNC machinist who might be willing/interested in making these if the specs are available.

How key is the steel type for the bars, and why the two different types?

It wouldn't be pretty, but I bet you could make a clutch line extender that would remove the need to run a whole new line as well.

Hi everyone, I have 1-inch or 3/4-inch risers with the stock clipons. It appears the clipon is pinned into the riser and the riser is pinned to the triple tree. (Confirm this?)

I would LOVE to rotate my clipons forward slightly to reduce the bend in my wrist. I'm waaay more broad-shouldered than the test person who sat on the bike when they determined the bar angle. I have to bow my arms in funny for it to be comfortable...

Other than helibars...can I do anything with the risers and stock clipons I have??

Thanks so much,

~Adam

Hi Adam,

You have tried slackening the bars off and pushing them forward to take up the movement in the assembly ? There isn't much there but it may help. Otherwise your options are simple : File off some of the front edge of the engagement tab on the bars, or the risers,or both. Obviously this reduces the strength..

The risers replicate the tab engagement , so some people will simply lift the stock bars up the fork leg and retighten them there without a riser - this gives the same effect but the bar WILL rotate around the fork leg under heavy pressure so that would be your call safety wise. It could turn a simple parking lot tip-over into a new tank purchase..

In any event, you won't be able to move the bars FAR forward without finding the levers/switches hitting the fairing on full lock.

Rod

Rod,

Are you still selling Bar Risers? How does one go about seeing/ordering them?

very beautiful work! Makes me drool over having a lathe, mill....and of course the knowledge!

I sent this review to Steve at BikeBolts. He was very welcoming of the feedback, and is going to make some of the changes I suggested! His desire is a kit that is 100% perfect. He even said he would send me the changed parts, which I will install and then update this review for.

Bravo to people who really want to make customers happy!

Do they appear to be painted or anodized?

From their website FAQ's

What color are the screws?

All of the hardware is made from 18-8 stainless steel. Unlike regular steel, stainless steel is not compatible with any type of chemical coating (i.e. anodizing) or paint. Therefore the material/base color is silver which is identifiable with nearly all stainless steels.

What are the colored screws colored with?

The colored screws are color coated with a baked on powder coat enamel that is cured at temperatures ranging from 400°F to 450°F. The coating is extremely resistant to chipping, scratching, or peeling. Only the head of the screws are powder coated to prevent build-up in the thread grooves. The type of powder coat used is known in the industry as a TGIC or (triglycidyl isocyanurate) powder. This powder is commonly used on wheels (automotive & motorcycle), motorcycle frames, and aluminum extrusions. This coating is not indestructible but is far superior to paint and anodizing.

The Chrome is actually a polished stainless steel finish. By polishing the stainless steel screw head to a mirror finish, the finish of the polished stainless steel exceeds the chrome plating shine and includes the superior corrosion resistance of stainless steel.

I am not sure if this belongs in Mods (since it is one I guess) or in some Aftermarket Review section as yet not created...

About 6 months ago when looking for replacement fairing clips, I came across www.bikebolts.com. They make colored hardware to replace the fairing fasteners on many bikes, including the VFR. I figured I would try them out, and add them to my site if I thought they were any good...I won't put anything on there I wouldn't personally use (thus no LED kits as yet...). I finally got around to ordering the kit (I used the "Color match my bike" option)a few weeks ago, and installing it this week as I had my forks off so I was in a good position to tinker.

I will break this review down into the Bad, the Good and the Pictures. Hopefully I can offer enough detail for any questions.

THE BAD

I hate reading gushing reviews where the downside is hidden within the text...give it to me straight please! Being as I feel that way, I like to write reviews that way...my wife says I am pessimistic, I say I am a realist. I am probably pessimistic.

Issue #1. The replacement hardware is not an exact replica of the existing hardware. The Allen Head bolts have a smaller diameter head, and employ a plastic washer to make up the difference. I realize the over-sized head Honda uses would be much more expensive, but I prefer it. In addition instead of a 6mm bolt with a should to hold the fairing to the frame, they have a special washer with a shoulder in it. They work, but the plastic washer diameter is a bit smaller and I would prefer it be the same size. Also the tool to remove the bolts now goes from a 5mm allen wrench to some 3mm and some 4mm....more tools to have with you, and not the same tools other VFR riders might have!

Issue #2. They didn't include enough plastic fairing rivet thingies to replace all of them....short 7 that I can tell(I counted 15 total, they include 8!). This isn't a terrible thing as some you can't see without standing on your head, so you might not notice the inconsistency anyway.

Issue #3. They sent a part that was supposed to replace the Fender/Brake line bolts. They were not even close to what comes on the bike, which is a special 6mm nut attached to a square washer piece and a 30mm length bolt. They sent an over-sized plastic bushing, a 6mm nylon locknut, and a 20mm length bolt. This was especially too bad because my bolts have been missing since i bought the bike, and I keep forgetting to replace them.

Issue #4. They specify 16mm length bolts for the top of the fairing where the cowl and the uppers connect. This should be a 20mm bolt, and even the 20mm bolt they send for use in another spot isn't quite long enough with the plastic washer on if the Well Nut is new....but this can be overcome by installing the original bolt for a few days until the rubber well nut doesn't return to original length when the bolt is removed.

Issue #5. The left and right fairing connect at the bottom with two of those nifty Honda plastic rivets. The front one passes through a thicker boss, and I couldn't get their replacement rivet to secure, it just wasn't long enough.

Issue #6. They send a replacement bolt for the Plastic Windshield bolt cover thing....not sure the name but it is a triangle wedge shaped piece that normally holds on with a Phillips head bolt. Having this color matched is a bit odd since the part is black...it sticks out PLUS the bolt is 3mm too long anyway...I didn't install those.

Issue #7. Not sure if this qualifies as an "Issue", but they send a replacement 20mm length bolt for the windshield mount. The windshield mount bolt is under that Triangle Wedge shaped piece and isn't visible. I used the bolts for my Top Cowl/Fairing connector bolts since the length would work.

Issue #8. The plastic rivet replacements heads are a bit wider than the stock ones, so they look odd where the dash connects to the funky shaped cowl piece. My son said no way so I didn't install them there.

Issue #9. This is pickier than I would normally be, and is probably being over pedantic, but the paint color wasn't an exact match...it was a bit oranger, or lighter colored. Now the difference (to me) is not great, but others may see a greater difference.

Ok, that wraps up the Negatives. I tried like crazy to list them all, and hope I explained well enough the differences. I prefer to talk about the positive points, so I will do that, even though they aren't as numerous, I still feel they outweigh the Negative by a huge margin!

THE Good

Positive #1. This is a total body hardware replacement kit (or designed to be, issues noted above). To buy the same parts from Service Honda would be $81.32, with a list price of $106.99...+ shipping...estimated to be $12?. Compared to the $39.12 (shipped) price from www.bikebolts.com (10% less from me, when I get them listed or by contacting directly to order) and you have a heck of a deal if all you need is replacement bolts. You can save $10 by not having the color matched if you prefer.

Positive #2. Stainless Steel. Each of the bolts is stainless steel, which offers superior corrosion resistance and are also lighter weight. They go to much effort to point out the weight savings is NOT great enough to matter of course.

Positive #3. Fairing clips! Instead of the Honda clips made of black gold or whatever, these replacement clips are a screw type clip. They are also not the 6.3mm (1/4") clips many try to pass off as a replacement...these work exactly as needed, but use a screwdriver (#2 Phillips is ideal) to remove and replace. As noted I didn't put them everywhere as I like the OEM look in some places, but it sure saved some cash!.

Positive #4. Well Nuts. They send new Well Nuts...8 of them. This is great for those who have some wear out or tear. I don't suggest changing your good ones, rather keep these as spares....much cheaper than the exact same Honda part.

Positive #5. Installation. They include with the bolts a microfiche shot showing where each bolt goes, by number. They also include a list of how many of each you have.

Positive #6. Packaging. I hate putting together furniture and trying to match the intended hardware when some is 16mm and some is 20mm and so forth. They included 4 different bags, separating the bolts so that you only had 1 length of each kind of bolt per bag. The bags are labeled with the hardware # and quantity for easy reference.

Positive #7. Selection. They offer a good selection of vehicles and colors....all the colors you could ever want (Yes Timmy, they have Flat Black), as well as OEM color matching.

Like I said, not as many Positive points, but definantly a deal! I am going to send them this same review, and see if they will modify their kit. I can't speak to other model years of course, but from what I understand they have replacements for the DZUS fasteners for the older models.

THE Pictures

Here are some shots from my install. I have a somewhat crappy camera, and did not take "while I was working" shots. The only picture I don't have is of the front black part, which now has red bolts and an interesting look...I couldn't put it in Bad or Good...The contrast is cool but I think I would prefer black there.

The Front Fender:

Front Cowl mounting spot:

Front cowl multiple bolts...sorry it's kinda oranged out:

Replacement Fairing Clip:

I hope you guys liked the review...if you have any questions let me know!

Joshua

Service Honda's shipping is a killer! 22% they want for my $90 front seal/bushing order. I hate paying so much when i know what shipping will cost on those items. I am going to give Keith a call at Mason City and see what it comes to.

*edit* I ordered my parts...saved $15 over the Service Honda price, and only paid $7 shipping instead of $20. Total savings was close to $28 that way, plus I was able to order a couple pints of fork oil and thus save a trip to the dealer (20 miles)....very nice, Keith was good to work with.

Initial measurements sent to Randy as requested. For those that installed the Ulysses pegs..do they angle farther forward or is it just me? Does it seem to be an issue?

I just saw this...and have been considering a lowered peg as I have knee problems...I am not sure if I really can use them, as I don't have long legs, but I would be willing to take measurements, fit them, and give feedback. I sent Randy an email.

inquiring minds also wish the video was on VFRD not youTube or whatever...I don't get to see it at work:(

Found an interesting article/feedback on the Galfer Wave Rotors, and how they are better. They did say that they chew through pads faster, but braking is much improved at the rotor bleeds heat better, and presents a new surface to the pad as the wave goes around.(but the pad gets chewed by the new surface....I guess it is a tradeoff)

http://www.webbikeworld.com/carym/wave/

I have never bought the Wave Design either...especially with more surface area empty than filled in. I would thing less metal means more heat/cool cycles = more warping and less effective braking....let alone the cheese grater concept, which large holes would seem to encourage.

Slotted rotors run cooler, but 1/2 the surface area would seem to just heat right up.

'98 INLINE. Looks to be a direct replacement for my 4th gen except 1/2 in higher.

Still looking for your pin location! Straight or off-set?

thax

I took INLINE to mean straight, not offset??

I finally rode in the dark....light was just fine, and definantly brighter and in different areas, but I didn't feel I lost a ton of short range, no dark spots.

Yeah that short range light is what I want back. I don't feel the light I gain in distance was worth the cost of my short range light. Before I did the mod I had upgraded all four bulbs to Piaa bulbs. Not cheap but HUGE difference in light. Long and short distance light. Im going to go back to stock wiring for now..

Why not use all 6 filaments? Get the best of all worlds!

I finally rode in the dark....light was just fine, and definantly brighter and in different areas, but I didn't feel I lost a ton of short range, no dark spots.