Tightwad

is that a good idea to have the R/R a ground?

I believe the entire body of the R/R is a ground.

I don't think it is important to have the RR body grounded, the units I bought thru Tightwad weren't internally connected to ground for instance. The mounting bolts will ground the RR body anyway. What is important is to connect the green wire from the Vfrness to a good grounding point and to have the RR body as snugged up to the metal of the frame as is possible even using heat transfer grease to eliminate air pockets. Some computer heat transfer compounds are full of metallic particles, I don't think that expense is warranted, we used to simply use silicone grease before the white gunk became available many moons ago.

Although this part of the frame gets warm from engine and exhaust heat, it is still much cooler than the internals of the RR can reach when in full bore (there was a recent post where this was elaborated to its full extent). The idea is to shunt this potential heat out to the frame as best as possible and keep the electronic bits inside at least as 'cool' as the bike frame, a computer fan may or may not assist but it sure satisfies that niggle in one's mind about doing all one can!

Mike

Very well said!

If anyone finds a source for these plugs, and would like one built, I would be willing for the stateside guys...but I don't have a source for the plug, and the picture given is not very legible unfortunately. Nice work tho!

What about something like controlling the voltage from the stator before reaching the regulator by moving the cores with centrifugal force of RPM increase if one can be designed into a stator like device?

Linear Variable Differential Transformer

<A name=LVDT>A linear variable differential transformer (LVDT) has an AC driven primary wound between two secondaries on a cylindrical air core form. (Figure below) A movable ferromagnetic slug converts displacement to a variable voltage by changing the coupling between the driven primary and secondary windings. The LVDT is a displacement or distance measuring transducer. Units are available for measuring displacement over a distance of a fraction of a millimeter to a half a meter. LVDT's are rugged and dirt resistant compared to linear optical encoders.

LVDT: linear variable differential transformer.

The excitation voltage is in the range of 0.5 to 10 VAC at a frequency of 1 to 200 Khz. A ferrite core is suitable at these frequencies. It is extended outside the body by an non-magnetic rod. As the core is moved toward the top winding, the voltage across this coil increases due to increased coupling, while the voltage on the bottom coil decreases. If the core is moved toward the bottom winding, the voltage on this coil increases as the voltage decreases across the top coil. Theoretically, a centered slug yields equal voltages across both coils. In practice leakage inductance prevents the null from dropping all the way to 0 V.

With a centered slug, the series-opposing wired secondaries cancel yielding V₁₃ = 0. Moving the slug up increases V₁₃. Note that it is in-phase with with V₁, the top winding, and 180^o out of phase with V₃, bottom winding.

Moving the slug down from the center position increases V₁₃. However, it is 180^o out of phase with with V₁, the top winding, and in-phase with V₃, bottom winding. Moving the slug from top to bottom shows a minimum at the center point, with a 180^o phase reversal in passing the center.

This is above my pay grade! I don't think it would work however, as we need the higher RPM. Controlling the output of the stator is how a Series regulator works...like the Compufire units. Shunt type regulators dump the excess to ground. I asked Rick about going Series with the R/R's they (and I) sell, and he says the new MOSFET version have been so good they have no plans to retool to a more expensive Series version.

I believe that's the mounting stud for "Radar's" frame sliders. R&G Racing uses a solid rod that the frame sliders mount to.

Indeed, thank you Chaz. Yes, I have the R&G kit on mine and it looked like the Radar mounts were poking out of the same location which peaked my interest.

Sorry, I missed this question. Radar used to offer them in Red, my replacements are black :(

I wanted to give this topic a bump since it took me a bit of searching to find it. Good writeup on the install...question for Anik however...did you have to trim the tabs on the bulb for it to fit?

I wonder if you could hot-wire your seat so that you got a jolt in the arse when you reach a shift point? Then you could keep your eyes on the road where they belong, and never miss a shift. (J/K, sorta)

Yes, this could be done. Let me know if you want one.....and whether you prefer to be shocked or just nudged....

If you do compare to the Darth Bling mounts, please adjust for shorter people...I find my mirrors have to be tweaked as far as possible for me to see out of them, and the light isn't parallel with the ground.

I think it is silly to argue about whether it will work…let the tests prove it…and then argue about the testing methodology. Throwing insults around is useless and won’t do anything but create ill will.

I am by no means a scientist…but I do love the theory and discussion. One thing I keep hearing is that “you can’t get as much work out as you are putting in”….I understand this theory, and it is true in every case I have seen tested, but I think the point of it all is that we aren’t currently at a 1:1 ratio of effort to work, and thus there is room to improve the ratio without violating any laws of physics. The effort to distill the HHO is a perfect example….why worry about the work involved to distill it as long as it doesn’t require a charging system upgrade (which would draw more power)?

If he gets 1 verifiable MPG more, without power loss, it will be a success. People are willing to run gas additives that claim the same thing…what’s the difference?

My thoughts on how to verify the upgrade I still stand behind…if you are adding HHO AND a Powercommander, you have to test them individually…otherwise you have no proof that the additional power and/or MPG changes are HHO related and not PC related, right?

It would be easy to tell if the Stator caused more work when under a load...check the HP output with and without a huge load applied.

As part of the testing it would make sense to dyno tune it as best you can on just gas, and measure the HP. Then hookup the HHO setup, but only the generation part, and measure the HP, then connect the HHO gas and tune it the best you can and measure again.

The difference between reading 1 and 2 would be the additional work the Stator might be doing...lost HP if any. The difference between 1 and 3 would be the benefit (or lack of) of using the HHO.

The standard Datel meters are water resistant, and hold up pretty well.

I don't think your insurance company needs to know if you are adapting the kit to a bike you already own -- it didn't come with it stock, and with most companies I've dealt with, they only care about the OEM specs of the vehicle you're covering. Now, if you purchase a motorcycle with a supercharger already on it, that's probably a different story.

I've also noticed that the insurance forms have a check box for Turbo/Nitrous, but not one for Supercharger, and besides, the kit is intended for off-road use only anyway...

:rolleyes:

The issue would be getting them to cover the repair/replacement of said unit if the bike took a tumble...there is exposed hardware that would certainly be damaged by a slide on the right side. I would assume coverage for accessories would be enough, but that is an additional cost.

He fixed too many to count, but knew that their failure was due to poor mfg/materials, not as much oiling.

Negative...

Honda great cam shaft crisis wasn't mfg/materials... Honda's great cam

shaft crisis was the result of a factory cost cutting measure... they

choose to mill the cam bearing blocks separately... there was no

matching of components... consequently the cam bearing blocks were not

line bored with the head... if the tolerances happened to add up...

the cam will flop about in the head.. you'll notice the edge of the

cams fail first... a sure sign the cam shaft tilted and was allowed to

strike the follower at an angle... this also explains why some cams go

100K while other only 20K...

Isn't this the definition of using poor MFG/Materials? instead of line boring they milled the blocks in parts....

It is where you add material to the dome thus decreasing the expansion chamber and increasing the pressure/compression.

So all that Carbon buildup may not be a bad thing?

I'd like to swap to a smaller diameter stator to reduce rotating mass, will look into that down the track. My bike won't ever run the typical S/T power loads; a GPS and the EWP are about it (and all of my rear lights and front indicators are LED which saves some current) so I could easily get away with reducing voltage output.

The Stator doesn't rotate, or the wires would get snarled up, the Rotor rotates. Not sure what you could do to lighten the Rotor.

Another plug for Keith at Mason City Honda. While I may not buy the parts to repair the valve damage I suffered, his prices for the parts came in under $200, vs $241 from Service Honda. I even spoke with his tech about what to do with my head and he suggested buying a new bare head over having mine rebuild. $560 for the head brand new.

What is different on the 06+ models for the map by gear? Do the have a gear indicator built in? I have been looking at building one for my bike (for fun), but didn't know if the later VFRs were different than my 02 in that regard.

I thought I had seen a diagram of circuit on one of these threads or your web site but I can not find it again, so you replace the red/white wire with a heavy gauge wire to handle better the amps, produced by the r/r.

regards

kev

There was a diagram of the 2002+ model, but it works under a different premise slightly. Essentially you have it correct, there is a 10 gauge wire from the R/R that goes to an inline heavy duty fuse holder. The is a wire that Y's off the 10 gauge that goes to the Starter Relay, where the original Red/White wire was. The other portion goes directly to the battery.

Sorry Tightwad,

I may have mislead you here, the connector to the r/r has indeed 5 wires. 3 yellow (stator) 1 green (earth) and 1 red/white, I fully understand the replacement of the yellow wires, with heavy gauge than standard and the relocating the earth to the battery, but why the replacement of the red/white wire and the inclusion of an extra fuse?.

It's the ignition switch wires that have been messed with, it should have a 3 pin connector, someone has fit a 6 pin connector (90-93) models, then cut out the two brown wires and left the other space empty, my question in regard to the ignition switch, was do you have access to 3 pin connectors that could be used for the rewiring of the ignition switch.

many thanks

kev

The entire charging system on the 90-97 models essentially runs through the 14 gauge wire in the starter relay. This leads to burned up starter relay connections when the connection gets less than ideal...it happens so often my kit includes the Starter Relay Connector repair kit I also sell seperately.

I duplicated the path to the battery, with a second fuse. This 10 gauge wire leads to much more stable charging, and no more melting down the starter relay connection.

No connections are made to the ignition switch...just the Red/White wire in the starter relay.

The 3rd and 4th gen VFR has a 5 pin plug, with 3 smaller stator connections and the larger power and ground connections below them. If the R/R doesn't have this connection, then someone has spliced an R/R from a different model in.

The wires from the R/R plug go about 24" to another connection, where the stator wires come to from the stator.

Tightwad,

I hope so,

do you do a loom to fit the 750 fv version, as I might as well replace the wiring whilst I have the bike in bits.

kev

The VFRness for the 750 is different from the rest in that it doesn't T into the charging circuit, but actually replaces a good bit of it...see the thread linked in my signature for more details, and you can find it on my website of course....but better data and pictures are compiled here on this great site.

Joshua

Just joined vfrd and found this thread,what a bonus.

This is my second vfr750fv, which I bought 2 weeks ago, last owner replaced the battery and r/r, but after stripping the bike to go through end to end, as I do when I buy a new bike, I found the plug to the r/r has a burnt terminal, on removal from the unit, I can see some burning to the terminal, only very light, question is, will I have to replace this, or can I clean up the pin.

I have in the past, on my own bikes and my son's removed the connector which joins the alternator to the loom and to the r/r and hard wired it.

The fv(97) has 5 wires 3 yellow 1 red 1 green.

I do like the idea of the loom ( plug and play)type.

Once the connectors burn, they don't seem to be the same. Hopefully you caught it soon enough!

Joshua

Am I the only one who can't see the pics in this thread?

c

Not sure what happened to the pictures Lobster posted, they were (are?) hosted separately from VFRD. I can't see most pictures from work so I can't tell what the issue might be.

The pictures shown are of a less refined model that was used for initial fit, I haven't had the opportunity to install one myself on a 2000-2001 model, but the 98-99 model would be very similar.

The bad: The constant noise is mostly gone but I can still hear an intermittent rattle/tick/noise so either my back one is bad too or something else is amiss.

Its hit or miss to get a tentioner that doesnt rattle , just look at those who've replaced them multiple times even at best they dont rattle for a while , being you did get change on the issue , says you replaced the right part.

You probably seen my mention on the issue with oil type that corrected my noise and it was loud& Kronic , but I recently noticed The oil hole through the gasket can barely fit a needle through, I wonder if increasing that hole would free the oil flow alittle and aide with the body rattle, so people can use what ever oil they want and be noise free.

Turns out I only heard a minor rattle on the couple miles back to my house. After that....dead quiet! So far after 3K miles it's silent.

3K miles in a month??? Did you take another trip? My bike went a whopping 2 feet in the last 2 months...and that was 2 feet to the right so I could get better access all around it.

Looks like fun! I wish I had the technical drawing skills you guys have (or the time/energy to develop them).