Member Contributer shaynus Posted July 10, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted July 10, 2016 Hi all. I have just asked this question / request in the electrical section, but thought I would post here too for more exposure, and hopefully quicker response. I'm trying to fit an R1 ignition switch to my 00-01 5th gen to go with the R1 top triple clamp I'm using for my front end swap. The problem I'm having is that when I wire up the R1 switch (just with jumper leads at this point ) the fuel pump wont prime. Plug back in the orginal switch and everything works fine. There is the mysterious pink wire that is in the original switch harness but not in my Haynes manual. From what I can gather there is a trick to circumvent this. I understand peoplenot wishing to shout the fix from the roof tops, but could someone please PM me ASAP so I can move forward with my conversion while I still have some days off on leave? I want to get the switch sorted before I go on with fitting any more parts that I will just have to take off again. Thanks for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GleninAus Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 I'm curious on this too. The Pink wire leads straight into the ECU. The Haynes 2000 + wire diagram has it shown. Really effective anti hot wire lock replace device has me wondering if the ignition key lock is coded to the ecu or is it as simple as a resistance load to circumvent the pink wire. I wanted to replace my ignition as the one of the wires needed replacing and found it hard to get one with the pink wire setup Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Madsen Posted July 10, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted July 10, 2016 Take a look at this video, I think this is what you are looking for Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer shaynus Posted July 10, 2016 Author Member Contributer Share Posted July 10, 2016 Thanks Madsen. Looks like I need to take a trip to my local electronics store Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Madsen Posted July 10, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted July 10, 2016 Only glad I could help :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer shaynus Posted July 12, 2016 Author Member Contributer Share Posted July 12, 2016 Arrrghh! This is doing my head in. I did what I thought would work, replicating the OEM igmition switch circuit and no luck. Use a 9v battery to the pink wire and it works. All I can think of is that I used the wrong diode, bur the 'test' voltages I checked seamed to make sense.... sigh. It shouldn't be this hard! Frustrated rant over! ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer shaynus Posted July 16, 2016 Author Member Contributer Share Posted July 16, 2016 Sigh... turns out it IS that easy, if you don't make silly mistakes! 1st diode was 0.3V, not 3V! To make matters worse, when I tried using the diode fitted in the original switch to test my new switch circuit (had to re-wire the switch contact configuration to match the VFR) I didn't actually turn the OEM ignition switch to 'on' when testing... Doh! And double Doh! :-) New (R1) switch circuit completed. I installed a small change over relay in it to mimic the OEM switch circuit. Probably not needed, but I figured it was safer to match new for old, like for like, in case it had some function I wasn't aware of, like keeping the thermo fans running after shut down, if required or something. Good thing I kept this to myself, could be embarrassing if others found out what a rookie mistake I made! ;-) At least now I can continue with my front end conversion! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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