Guest phlatlander Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 It's back together :thumbsup: . Man I love how this bike looks, can't explain it, it just does it for me :rolleyes: . Sorry, back on topic. Used a r1 r/r and wired it up using the stock connectors. Cut off the connectors from the old oem r/r and wired into, using button hook method and soldered, to the new 10awg charge wires. Used a 25amp fuse in the positive charge line. Why 10awg, because it was the only high strand that I could find locally and mostly b/c it was only $0.25 a foot. Also installed a datel volt meter using one of the legs from the additional fuse block (just an advanced auto 6 fuse unit under the seat-would be the same as using one of the legs of a blue sea unit). The fuse block is controlled by a relay that is triggered from the rear tail(running) lights. Results??? 14.3 volts at idle upon the first fire up in 2 1/2 weeks, note battery was at 12.75volts b4 leaving on the test ride. Went for a test ride and looked down at the datel, 14.3 up to a max of 14.5 around 4k. Looks good. Come to the first stop light pull in the clutch and hit the brakes, datel went down to something-not sure it caught me off guard Stopped at the light, with clutch in and revved the engine and voltage came back up to 14.3, ok must have been a fluke. Went about 3 miles at 30-45mph and the datel showed 14.4 most of that, never lower and 14.2. Come up to the next turn, pull in clutch and put on the brakes, same deal voltage drops to 12.6-13.2vdc? Complete the turn and give it throttle again and the datel goes back up to 14.4. 2 miles later start slowing down for the next turn, this time I don't touch the clutch, just the front brake lever, datel stays at 14.4 might have dropped to 14.3 at the very least. Was more traffic at this corner so I didn't look at the meter again until after the turn. Once I looked down datel showed 13.5-6ish. More throttle brought it back to 14.4. Now I'm wondering whats going on. Keeping rpm between 3-4k i accelerate and hit just the front brake lever and watch the datel, rock solid at 14.4. Speed back up and hit just the rear brake pedal, datel shows 14.4. Speed back up and pull in the clutch and coast, datel shows a drop just can't remember to what, hit both brakes with the clutch in and the datel drops to 12.something-13.5. Did this a couple more times with just one brake lever/pedal at a time and both times the datel dropped down to at least 13, one time I broke pretty hard and thought I saw 11.8volts. So I think it's something to do with the clutch. Get back close to the house and turn on the blinker but don't pull in the clutch and hit the brakes to slow for the turn, datel drops again. Pull into the garage, take the gear off and pull the seat. The top of the r/r is warm but not what I would call hot - somewhere between 30-50 degrees warmer than ambient temp. Loosen the left rear side cowl and feel the stator wires, yup pretty hot. Not so hot I couldn't touch them but hotter than the top of the r/r. So I'm now thinking I have something going on with the left switch pod/clutch? Will verify some of the above sometime in the next couple weeks and try different combinations of switches, brakes, clutch. Ideas??????????? As for the chart: Battery Voltage = 12.75v - keep in mind the battery was charged and not connected to the bike while work was being done. Checked upon return from test ride = 12.97. Checked again 2hrs later = 12.76. Will check in the morning too, expecting 12.6. Charging voltage at Idle = 14.3v - multimeter testing directly at battery and on datel. Charging voltage at 5k rpm = 14.3-14.5v from datel. Resistance between battery ground and frame ground = 0.1 ohm. Resistance between all 3 legs of the stator = 0.3 - 0.4 ohm Continuity between all 3 legs and ground = none AC voltage from stator (with rr Unpluged) at idle = 18-20vac was jumping around alot. AC voltage from stator (with rr unpluged) at 5k rpm = measurement not taken. AC voltage from stator (with rr pluged in) at idle = didn't do that today but on wednesday it was 11-13vac. AC voltage from stator (with rr pluged in) at 5k rpm = measurement not taken. DC voltage at the battery side of the +/- rr Connector = Identical to battery voltage (Bike off = 12.75) DC voltage at the RR side of the +/- RR connector (connector unpluged, measured directly across the red and green wire) at idle = measurement not taken DC voltage at the RR side of the +/- RR connector (connector unpluged, measured directly across the red and green wire) at 5k rpm = measurement not taken Note: bike has new battery, r/r, and stator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 Measured voltage at the battery this morning with key off was 12.77. Maybe this is just normal for the voltage to drop when braking? Doesn't seem like it should though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 I am not sure if I am totally missing your point, but when you pull the clutch in obviously engine RPM drops, so the stator is putting out less voltage, and the R/R converts that to a lower DC voltage level. also when the brakes are applied, the brake lights come on so that causes a drop in voltage. anyway, as long as you are seeing mid 13s during normal riding (4-6k RPM), you don't have anything to worry about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FotoMoto Posted July 9, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted July 9, 2007 I am not sure if I am totally missing your point, butwhen you pull the clutch in obviously engine RPM drops, so the stator is putting out less voltage, and the R/R converts that to a lower DC voltage level. also when the brakes are applied, the brake lights come on so that causes a drop in voltage. anyway, as long as you are seeing mid 13s during normal riding (4-6k RPM), you don't have anything to worry about. +1 Yup, you're over analyzing the data; kinda' like riders new to a digital water temp gauge. One rider with a datel noticed on a trip that his r/r had gone into overcharge mode so he flipped on the high beams and hooked up a dc thermos to his accessory plug (talk about luck). The drain got the voltage down low enough to make the next major destination where he could get another r/r. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 Thanks for the replies guys. And i agree. How about this, when you pull in the clutch the rpms do drop, down to idle which means the r/r should still be putting out 14.3vdc, same as when the bike was idling in the garage. When you hit the brakes, absolutely, the bulbs will illiminate and the voltage may drop. I'm going to go out tonight and do a little more testing with different scenerios. Primarily to see what the voltage does when I pull in the clutch. Because in my mind that would be the same as idle voltage. Any more opinions would be greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FotoMoto Posted July 9, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted July 9, 2007 Fan running? Big draw. Also, you'll get a high voltage reading at idle after you start the bike as it's "topping off" the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 How about this, when you pull in the clutch the rpms do drop, down to idle which means the r/r should still be putting out 14.3vdc, same as when the bike was idling in the garage. I get very high readings when I fist start up the bike, 14+ at idle. However after some riding, when I come to a stop and the bike is idling, the voltage is usually around 12.8 to 13. When I rev it up to 4-5k, the voltage jumps up to 13.5V or so. The stator & the regulator/rectifier are electrical devices with a large amount of temperature dependence. That is, the R/R behaves differently when it is at 120F compared to when it is at 70F. this can explain what you are seeing. You might be able to confirm it by comparing readings at idle before and after a ride. The charging system is pretty much doing its job if it is putting out between 13.3V and 14.3V during typical operating conditions (4-5k RPM with the bike hot). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 Good idea. I will test b4 test ride and after test ride idle voltage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 10, 2007 Share Posted July 10, 2007 Goldvfr, Good call, bike was at 14.3 at idle, cold-right after start-up. Went for a 15-20 mile ride, ambient temp was 85 degrees with about 40-60% humidity. When I got back to the house let it idle and was between 12.8-13.3 and would jump higher if I blipped the throttle. Bike temp upon return to the house was 206degrees. Thanks for the help it is VERY much appreciated. Wouldn't you know it, got the bike running just in time to go out of town for a few days on business, and the weather looks nice this coming weekend, ?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 10, 2007 Share Posted July 10, 2007 Goldvfr,Good call, bike was at 14.3 at idle, cold-right after start-up. Went for a 15-20 mile ride, ambient temp was 85 degrees with about 40-60% humidity. When I got back to the house let it idle and was between 12.8-13.3 and would jump higher if I blipped the throttle. Bike temp upon return to the house was 206degrees. Thanks for the help it is VERY much appreciated. glad we could help. Wouldn't you know it, got the bike running just in time to go out of town for a few days on business, and the weather looks nice this coming weekend, ?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?! that's usually how these things go, sorry can't help you there :blink: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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