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Tyy

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About Tyy

  • Rank
    Club Racer
  • Birthday 04/01/1998

Profile Information

  • Location
    Ontario
  • In My Garage:
    1984 VF500F, 2014 Grom
  1. 13 months later... After 2 more visits to the motoshop and some negotiation, the bike passed inspection. This is the 3rd day out riding. I am on the coast of lake Ontario, near Canada's Chernobyl. It was a particularly misty day near the water; we've had some weird cold spikes from the Hurricanes. This is near the evacuated area of Port Hope. There used to be a uranium enrichment and radium plant which employed most of the people in Port Hope. They leveled the facility when they discovered it was contaminating the soil after 40 years or so. The direct vicinity was deemed uninhabitable, and many homes were boarded up. Although it is believed that nearly all of Porthope may have been at risk of health complications from the low-level radiation. Today the area is being cleaned up by burying contaminated topsoil at a location further away from town, but there is still an uninhabited area. It is branded as a "Protected Nature Area", but really its just to protect people from staying in the radiation too long. If you look closely you can see lake Ontario above the trees, its a little confusing because there are no reference points in the mist.
  2. That Y pipe is not the vacuum line is it? Mine doesnt have one of those. The petcock doesnt have a prime position, but I think I know how to do what youre saying. I could remove the spring and diaphragm and just cork the vacuum hose = always dumping fuel. Only thing I am worried about is whether the petcock can still turn off the fuel because mine does what you said Dutchy. When its running I can turn it to off and it still draws fuel. I am hoping that wont be the case when the fuel pump is off.
  3. Looking for suggestions on what to do with an engine problem I am having. At wide open throttle the bike burbles and loses power like it is leaned out. I have been reading from different sources and I think it is an issue with the fuel petcock. I have cleaned the petcock out with carb cleaner and compressed air in the past. I dissembled it too. From what I've read the engine has less vacuum at WOT and this can result in fuel starvation. The only other clue is with my vacuum hose configuration. The way the lines were hooked up when I got it is how it is now. There are two outlets on the petcock one above the diaphragm and one below. It is hooked onto the one above. I presume the lower one is supposed to be a vent and not actually hooked up to something? Please advise.
  4. Hmm, I would never have known. I assumed the pattern on my engine was not a coincidence. I will make note. Thanks for the appreciation!
  5. I have recently mounted a Magna 500 engine in my Interceptor because the original engine blew up. I am going to make a quick guide about the differences in mounting the engine and how to do it. To swap the Magna engine in, you are going to need an Interceptor engine for parts. Hopefully if I make this knowledge publicly available it will lead to more VFRs being revived. Before I start it should be said, any maintenance is easier with the engine out. Get any tune ups and refurbishing done before you put it in. Step 1 The water pump covers need to be changed because they are infact different. The one on the left is the interceptor and the right is the magna. The angle of the magnas pipe is such that the rubber hose joiner will not connect it to the aluminum coolant pipe. This part is on the left side, down low. On top of making the coolant hoses connect you get a drain bolt too! Make sure you wipe down the surfaces of any debris to prevent a leak. There is a rubber gasket in here which if its in good shape you can reuse. You can not do this with the engine in the frame. I found this out halfway through putting my engine in and believe me it sucked redoing all that work. (The lower left bolt is trapped behind the kickstand once it is mounted in the frame.) Step 2 The wiring loom is different. The neutral switch and its connectors are different between the two bikes. This is located on the lower right hand side of the engine. You will need soldering tools and a length of copper wire. The interceptor looks like the picture above. It has one wire which joins into a loom which consists of 5 other wires, ending in a six pin connector. The magna has two wires coming from here and ends in a two pin connector. Although, the 6 pin connector which is present on the interceptor contains only 5 wires on the magna. There is nothing on the interceptor wiring harness to plug that connector into, so you need to take one of those two wires and make the 5 pin connection into a 6 pin. At this point I suggest you take a look at your wiring diagrams to see whats going on here. This wire on both of the bikes is the neutral switch wire(Red and Green). The magna comes with a redundant connection similar to the two wires you will find at the front of an interceptor. The redundant wire is green and orange. DO NOT MIX THEM UP. Here is the interceptors wires that come off the engine. You will need one of the square connectors inside that pin connector. I took the red and green wires connector. You can fold the tab over with a very small flat head screw driver and pull it right out. Here is the magna engines neutral switch wires. Chop it. Yes do it. Trust me do it. At the tip, not the base. Now you should be looking at a bunch of stuff like this. Say good bye to that 2 pin connector you wont be needing it. You just need exposed copper to solder onto. Remember to slide your heat shrink on before you start soldering. I am using a length of white wire to extend the red and green wire. You need enough to reach the junction of pin connectors on the left hand side of the bike. You will also notice the magnas wiring loom is shorter and barely reaches that spot. I had to take the receiving end out of its clip to get extra slack. You can see the square connector there too. Close up of the connectors you will be needing. The red and orange wire will be connected to something like what I have on the left to ground the wire for safeties sake (No the wire is not hot). I tested and it makes no difference whether its connected or not. I am fairly sure it does nothing. The red and green wire will connect to the square connector on the right. You will need to put a length of copper wire in the middle so it can reach its destination. Red and green wire done. Yeah its blue for me now. Orange and green wire done. There it is in action. Just push your newly made square connector into the empty space on the magna engines 6 pin connector. Make sure you fold the metal tab back down or glue it in place. Now when you turn your electrics on the bike will be able to see its in neutral, and more importantly START because of that! Step 3* The front exhaust headers connect differently on the magna than they do on the interceptor. On the interceptor there are two studs that you thread the nuts onto. With the magna there is one stud and a bolt hole for a bolt. This is what the magna engine looks like. You are going to need to find a long bolt that fits into those threads. I ended up using an alen head bolt, but the nuts that go on here are ten millimeter, so try that. Simply thread a nut onto your bolt first and then put it through your header and into that hole on the right. Tighten down the bolt first so it doesnt interfere with anything. Now just tighten the nuts as you would on your interceptor. The mating surface is further inside on the magna as well, so you are going to need to ditch the stock nuts that are capped. Be sure to test for exhaust leaks once you get your engine fired up. Mine was leaking like a sieve. Turns out part of this was a misunderstanding on my part. All the 500 engine exhaust studs can be removed. Something to remember if you are missing some like I was, thank you jeremyr62* Step 4** The magna comes with gravity fed fuel petcock. The interceptor needs vacum to pull a diaphragm open. You will need to unscrew the vacuum nozzle that is on the interceptors engine and put it on the magna. Just trade the vacuum nozzle for one of the phillips head plugs in the magnas engine. Those plugs cap off the outlets for synchronizing the carbs. Picture of this soonTM** You are done I ran into no other major differences when I was installing my engine. Everything else is identical when you install the engine. From what I have been told and read. The magna engine has longer gear ratios and different lift cams. This results in a slightly different preforming engine, for better or worse depending on how you see it. Good luck
  6. <iframe src="https://www.facebook.com/plugins/video.php?href=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2Fty.strick%2Fvideos%2F10209794846817976%2F&show_text=0&width=268" width="268" height="476" style="border:none;overflow:hidden" scrolling="no" frameborder="0" allowTransparency="true" allowFullScreen="true"></iframe> HTML code has not been working here on the forum, but my friend took a short video. I have gone from no engine to a running bike in the last week. Firstly, I put the engine in because I want to test it before I take the head off. I think the compression issues might be because the cylinder had lost its rag corking the intake. Rust had started on top of the valves and I think that might be a contributor. Now onto what I've done, I repainted some of the frame while I had the engine out. There were actually a couple major differences in mounting the Magna engine, I took a lot of pictures and I think I'll be making a how to thread. Once I got the engine wired up and connected I was able to compression test it with the starter. I got ~120 psi on 3 of the cylinders(142 is the spec). The problematic one was at 90psi. I had to redo a lot of gaskets because they were turning to dust. Got to go back and do the alternator gasket again because its leaking. I did a valve clearance before I put the engine in. Re-gaped the plugs and painted a few parts I could get to while it was out. Took a whole day of trouble shooting to get the engine to start. Pouring gas down the spark plug holes and squirting quick start eventually got the engine to cough to life. It also gun shotted a backfire too because of all the vapor in the exhaust. I am buttoning down the engine fuel mixtures and stuff right now, but I think I'll be taking it out for round two at getting it on the road soon. Heart surgery successful
  7. I just finished doing a soapy water test along my headgasket. There were no sources of bubbles. I was running an air compressor right into the sparkplug hole, with a hollowed out spark plug adapter I made. It was running at 80psi. Any more pressure and the engine was turning itself past TDC. Is it possible that the gasket only broke into a cavity inside the engine? It seemed like there is no breach to the outside. As a reminder, I got 60, 30, 60, 70psi with a drill attached to the alternator. I dont know what to think because of the oil colour. As far as the water goes, it may have been already in the bottle. When I drained the oil there were no bubbles or foam. I could try to hot wire the starter, if anybody could tell me how to do that. I am really stumped...
  8. Got the engine out. I compression tested the Magna engine with a drill. I got a reading of 60 and 30 psi on the front cylinders, and a reading of 60 and 65psi on the rear cylinders. I think the front gasket is toast. I found one on Ebay and ordered it. I also noticed the oil that has been sitting in a bottle for awhile has seperated. There is water on the bottom of the bottle. Spark plug from the cylinder that went on my 56k engine
  9. VF500 new restoration, carb advice?

    I am running 120 main jets with 4-1 straight pipe. I also upped the slow jets. I think slow jets would give your bike at least a little more stability when accelerating. More fuel = lower temperature right? I would highly recommend the extra fuel inlet mod, I found evidence to suggest it makes a difference. There is what mine looks like fully installed. I also have pictures of the carbon deposits showing a lean mixture towards the 4th carb. Pretty straight forward procedure. Just match the same spot on the other side of the carb with where the OEM inlet is. Just look out when you drill through, that you dont punch too far in. There is a fuel filter below the 4th carb that will get munched if you hit it with the drill. I did that to mine, but hey its nothing an inline fuel filter wont compensate for.
  10. Carnage! That came out of the exhaust, along with a fair amount of oil. I am hoping on dropping the engine today. I also got my hands on a compression tester for the new engine. I was wondering if anyone knows whether I will have electrical issues with the Magna engine. If anyone has a shopping list for replacement engine parts, it would be greatly appreciated. There are a lot of ebay ads and what not for engine gaskets, but I cant find standalone rear cylinder bank head gaskets. I am going to inquire about the valve spring kit that was mentioned earlier in this thread. While I have the engine out, would it be worth sending it to a machine shop? What would I ask them to do exactly? Ive read about hot tanking, and resurfacing the heads, but I dont know if that is actually worth it.
  11. Ummm a Magna engine?? Is this thing going to work? The mounting points seem to be the same. I inspected the engine under the valve covers, since I need in there to do a valve timing, and it looks rust free. My 56'000km engine had rust though. As with the paraffin thing, how do you recommend doing it? A quick google search is trying to tell me its a bad idea.
  12. Do you mean splitting the heads? Is there anything in the way other than the bolts? Can I do a compression test turning it by hand, or maybe a drill?
  13. Rejoice! I have got my hands on an engine! Thanks to my aunt and uncles connection with a person from the Vintage Road Racing Association here in Ontario I got this engine for free. It was destined for the dump Ive been told. It looks like it has been sitting for a while, very dirty on the outside and one of the intake ports was not plugged, it has rust on top of the valve. However, the rest of the valves are clean, under the valve covers it is rust free. Everything moves when I turn it over with a wrench. Ive yet to peak inside the cylinders, but I managed to prop it up on some wood to drain the oil. Here's where I am worried. The oil seems milky. I dont know if this is because it has been sitting for a long time or if it is coolant contamination. I do not know what year this engine is, it has bare metal side covers. Also tell me if this next picture is what I think it is... Lastly here is my engine model number, if anyone recognizes where it is from.
  14. Hello all, I have silently been working on the VF500 for awhile. I got everything sorted out except the engine. It runs and drives, but it does indeed lack power on the high end. I assume the power issues are only because of the 4th cylinder not making compression. Recently though, on a ride to the shop to get it inspected, a loud rattle developed in the right side crank case, near the clutch. With the surmounting engine problems I want to swap the engine. This leads me to my current predicament, VF500's in my area have been either too expensive or pillaged for parts. There is however a VF1000 for a fair price. Would an engine swap be possible from the 1000? How similar are the bikes(both are '84s)?
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