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Tyy

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    38
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About Tyy

  • Rank
    Club Racer
  • Birthday 04/01/1998

Profile Information

  • Location
    Ontario
  • In My Garage:
    1984 VF500F, 2014 Grom
  1. I just finished doing a soapy water test along my headgasket. There were no sources of bubbles. I was running an air compressor right into the sparkplug hole, with a hollowed out spark plug adapter I made. It was running at 80psi. Any more pressure and the engine was turning itself past TDC. Is it possible that the gasket only broke into a cavity inside the engine? It seemed like there is no breach to the outside. As a reminder, I got 60, 30, 60, 70psi with a drill attached to the alternator. I dont know what to think because of the oil colour. As far as the water goes, it may have been already in the bottle. When I drained the oil there were no bubbles or foam. I could try to hot wire the starter, if anybody could tell me how to do that. I am really stumped...
  2. Got the engine out. I compression tested the Magna engine with a drill. I got a reading of 60 and 30 psi on the front cylinders, and a reading of 60 and 65psi on the rear cylinders. I think the front gasket is toast. I found one on Ebay and ordered it. I also noticed the oil that has been sitting in a bottle for awhile has seperated. There is water on the bottom of the bottle. Spark plug from the cylinder that went on my 56k engine
  3. VF500 new restoration, carb advice?

    I am running 120 main jets with 4-1 straight pipe. I also upped the slow jets. I think slow jets would give your bike at least a little more stability when accelerating. More fuel = lower temperature right? I would highly recommend the extra fuel inlet mod, I found evidence to suggest it makes a difference. There is what mine looks like fully installed. I also have pictures of the carbon deposits showing a lean mixture towards the 4th carb. Pretty straight forward procedure. Just match the same spot on the other side of the carb with where the OEM inlet is. Just look out when you drill through, that you dont punch too far in. There is a fuel filter below the 4th carb that will get munched if you hit it with the drill. I did that to mine, but hey its nothing an inline fuel filter wont compensate for.
  4. Carnage! That came out of the exhaust, along with a fair amount of oil. I am hoping on dropping the engine today. I also got my hands on a compression tester for the new engine. I was wondering if anyone knows whether I will have electrical issues with the Magna engine. If anyone has a shopping list for replacement engine parts, it would be greatly appreciated. There are a lot of ebay ads and what not for engine gaskets, but I cant find standalone rear cylinder bank head gaskets. I am going to inquire about the valve spring kit that was mentioned earlier in this thread. While I have the engine out, would it be worth sending it to a machine shop? What would I ask them to do exactly? Ive read about hot tanking, and resurfacing the heads, but I dont know if that is actually worth it.
  5. Ummm a Magna engine?? Is this thing going to work? The mounting points seem to be the same. I inspected the engine under the valve covers, since I need in there to do a valve timing, and it looks rust free. My 56'000km engine had rust though. As with the paraffin thing, how do you recommend doing it? A quick google search is trying to tell me its a bad idea.
  6. Do you mean splitting the heads? Is there anything in the way other than the bolts? Can I do a compression test turning it by hand, or maybe a drill?
  7. Rejoice! I have got my hands on an engine! Thanks to my aunt and uncles connection with a person from the Vintage Road Racing Association here in Ontario I got this engine for free. It was destined for the dump Ive been told. It looks like it has been sitting for a while, very dirty on the outside and one of the intake ports was not plugged, it has rust on top of the valve. However, the rest of the valves are clean, under the valve covers it is rust free. Everything moves when I turn it over with a wrench. Ive yet to peak inside the cylinders, but I managed to prop it up on some wood to drain the oil. Here's where I am worried. The oil seems milky. I dont know if this is because it has been sitting for a long time or if it is coolant contamination. I do not know what year this engine is, it has bare metal side covers. Also tell me if this next picture is what I think it is... Lastly here is my engine model number, if anyone recognizes where it is from.
  8. Hello all, I have silently been working on the VF500 for awhile. I got everything sorted out except the engine. It runs and drives, but it does indeed lack power on the high end. I assume the power issues are only because of the 4th cylinder not making compression. Recently though, on a ride to the shop to get it inspected, a loud rattle developed in the right side crank case, near the clutch. With the surmounting engine problems I want to swap the engine. This leads me to my current predicament, VF500's in my area have been either too expensive or pillaged for parts. There is however a VF1000 for a fair price. Would an engine swap be possible from the 1000? How similar are the bikes(both are '84s)?
  9. Hmm... I will test how securely my Henkel pipe is attached in case I do need to remove the whole engine. Actually yeah I need to clean that thing anyways. Just a side note; what have you guys used for surface rust? I bought CLR Metal Cleaner.
  10. I got the bike off of my makeshift motorcycle lift today. I ought to know before I choose what to do next, if you can remove the rear cylinder head without taking the engine out. If I can indeed do that, it would save me an enormous amount of time and effort. I'd like to hear from somebody who has possibly tried this.
  11. VF400F resto-mod

    Before you undertake a wheel swap, may I point you in the direction I have gone? Changing the tires from bias-ply to modern radials really changes the look of the wheel. New paint or power coating could help too. Also I am curious, with these changes that you are making, are you aiming for a speed demon or an agile dancer? Remember, if you make the diameter of the rear wheel smaller, you lose top speed. Tire profile effects this too.
  12. How old are VFR owners?

    At 19 years old I am a young Padawan, learning about the ancient(early gen) VFR order. You may think that I am falling on to the dark side if you've seen my custom build, but I assure you that I still see the light.
  13. VF500 Rest0-mod

    Additional Fuel In I have routed fuel line to my new inlet which is located on the fourth carb New 14t Sprocket and Chain I chose to go down a tooth for my replacement sprocket on the front. I bought a new O-Ring chain from china to go with it. New Alternator Cover Gasket The alternator cover was dripping oil, I figured out that the bottom of the gasket was demolished. I traced the cover and cut a new gasket out of gasket paper. p.s.- not rust, chain wax New Paint Scheme The covers were fairly scratched up. I could have bought black paint to repair them, but I had leftover red paint from the wheels, so that is what I used. I was unsure about how the rustic finish would go with the bike, but I am pleased with how it turned out. I hope others agree. DUN DUNN DUNNNN I did not know how this forum would receive this design choice, so I kept it a secret until I could show it in action and ready to go. I have not seen any other VFs here that have gone this direction, so I hope some of you can appreciate this "different" look. I just love how the lines go together. I could not have imagined a better fit. This is a headlight assembly from a scooter made in India. Those are projector headlights in the middle. I attached it using some stainless steel brackets I made. I am suiting the whole bike in LED blinkers too. New Instrumentation I chose to go digital with an LCD speedometer. This particular one is made by a guy in Asia. He builds different electronic gadgets himself and sells them cheap. The only catch is they are not designed for particular bikes in mind, so it takes some fiddling around to get it to work for your bike. On the left is the OEM plug off of the analog speedo, and on the right is the new one. After deciphering the badly translated wiring instructions and the stock wiring map, I soldered the old wires into the new unit. I put a little extra wire in the middle. Some of the features are improvised. The temperature gauge is now full fuel and empty on the new thing. Oil warning light is a low beam indicator. Everything else is normal though. This thing does a neat little dance with the numbers and needle when you turn it on too. Misc This is just an overview of the bike's state right now. I got the wheels back on, rebuilt forks are in, exhaust pipe is on an looks sweet( I might be building a baffle for it, we'll see). All the bolts are torqued in. All the hard to reach maintenance is done. I just need to pop the mirrors in the handlebars, wire some new plugs in, put the gas tank and fuel lines together, finish some more maintenance, give the surface rust a clean with bleach, and then I'll be firing it up. Y'know what I've just realized this is reminding me of? The Borg from Star Trek TNG. RESISTANCE is FUTILE. YOUR motorcycle WILL be ACCLIMATED to the collective.
  14. VF500 Rest0-mod

    Just a sneaky peak. How am I doing so far? Awesome or awful? I will be detailing the recent work I've made in a few posts when I have the time to write it out. Stay tuned