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About Tyy

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  • Birthday 04/01/1998

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  • In My Garage:
    1984 VF500F, 2014 Grom
  1. Shhh... they are hibernating
  2. Gosh I forgot we had that table. Thanks and I'll try not to ask any more dumb questions
  3. I am in-fact reading from the right location then, but I still have no idea what carbs I have. Should not matter since I am going off of the previous setup as a baseline rather than stock, but it would be sweet if I had some later model carbs.
  4. What have you got that seat covered in? I am also curious what your wheel setup is in this picture because those look like radial tires! I just found something weird out. The jets I took out of my carbs were sizes 102 and 105. The frame is a 1984 bike, so I would have thought they were the same size and larger given it was jetted for a custom exhaust. The only markings I can find are VD on the side and a code that reads: 5 6 B (triangle) W D (and a Japanese letter). The slow jets I took out were 38s, so I definitely have 40s installed. I am going to go with 108s for the main jets. I'm assuming someone more qualified than me set up the carbs and Henkel pipe at the same time, so 3 sizes bigger should account for uncorking the supertrapp and a K&N right?
  5. I am curious whether you run offset front and rear cylinder jet sizes? Would this difference be due to unequal length headers? The pipe I have on now has a lot of unnecessary bends that make me think it is an equal length setup. Also I wanted to mention that I have upped the slow jet by 2 sizes, I want to say its a 48 now. This fuel ratio issue totally describes the trouble I have been having once I get into 6krpms and up. Also that is a sweet video
  6. I can tell there is a lot more to stretch out, but I definitely have thoughts of high rpm valve carnage in the back of my head. What setup were you running with 112's exactly? I honestly dont know how many sizes down I should go because without the filter on, this thing seems to be in its sweet spot now
  7. I've got some science and a video to share. I had a thought last night and looked up the rear wheel size on the magna. Turns out the tire sidewall makes up for the difference in the circumference of the 16' wheel, but while I was at it I used the same gearing calculator to determine what rpm I am riding at to get a top speed of 120. The rpm needed to reach 120kmph with my gear/wheel/tire setup is 6200rpm, for reference the max possible speed is 218kmph at 12000rpm. This calculator does not include any power numbers. I would assume because the power doesnt relate to the top speed, only how long it takes to get there. With this said, I could potentially reach a higher speed if I gave the engine more time to do it or if I milk more power out. Although I am not too keen about holding it up that high for very long. I want to insert a clip onboard a magna to show you what it sounds like on my end. https://youtu.be/tOpbJvGbbrY?t=88 (Pardon the hysterical squealing in this video hahah) This is a video I took yesterday to show you how it sounds now without the air filter I want to note that I am fairly happy with the bikes performance now. I want to hear any suggestions though about jet sizes or maybe your opinion on running no air filter. I owe you guys a thank you too, @jeremyr62 @Dutchy @TheDutchy @Forbes
  8. I just got back from a ride without the air filter. I did not find the dead spot at the top of my rpms. I took it on the highway and it was still pulling me forward at 120kmph. I let off though because it was screaming like a banshee. Overall I think the leaner mixture is way better for it. How many jet sizes back from 117.5 should I go to simulate no air filter? It does take a little choke or twist of the throttle to get it started in one shot.
  9. Kilometers per hour. I have checked and rechecked all the major things. I have a suspicion that I was hoping one of you might reiterate to save me the embarrassment. I think it is still just running overwhelmingly rich. I am going to open up the air box and see if it makes a difference, and hopefully confirm something.
  10. Firstly, we are talking 110 km/h, but again I dont think there is any issue at all up until that rpm. 0-110 real quick, but not any faster I did the test again with these instructions and I got a flow rate of about ~800ccs a minute. Does flow-rate relate in any way to the fuel pressure? I asked about the ignition timing as well because something I've read about is the intake opening before the combustion is done. I did all of my valves to spec and maybe a little tighter than usual, but not my much. Given my previous experience of finding adjustment screws backed all the way out into my engine. Is there a way of adjusting the ignition on all cylinders at once? Also I was wondering if I could test a leaner fuel mixture by removing my air filter?
  11. I've got some more info to share. I have been riding a bit and I've tested some higher speed riding. I'd say there is no difference in my top speed, but it does feel happier. I also tested bypassing my fuel relay, it made no difference. I tested the fuel pump output as well. The source I found says it should pump 700cc out of the lines with the petcock closed. I got way less than that, but 700cc seems excessive no? This is the forum I read Also I was wondering if there is a way to change the ignition timing on this bike without doing every single valve over again? As per @Forbes ' suggestion
  12. Well then... before I patched the holes in my exhaust and intake I was topping out at around 110 before the gargle explody noises start. I have lower profile tires on which can account for a small decrease. I will try a top speed run once I am certain the new seals are settled in. Again the best way I can describe what my "redline" sounds like is rapid small backfires or gargling if that helps the diagnosis. Yesterday for the first time I accidentally fell from 2nd into neutral, but when I did the engine revved up to the stratosphere. Yeah I know its bad for that to happen, but my point is that the engine should definitely sound like that all the time when I am at redline.
  13. Yesterday I completed the operation. I've got fresh carb boots and... umm this is going to sound funny. I got new exhaust gaskets too after learning the new engine didnt have any attached to it. I never took any out of the old engine, so I didnt know they were there. I didnt know they were there until one of them fell out and landed on the floor of my shed that is. Ta da! Some carb boots on the right. Before on left/after on right I was able to do this in record time because I didnt remove the engine to get at the rear headers. With an arsenal of articulating and bendy socket extensions, I was able to remove them. The winning combo was medium ratchet -> medium ratchet extension -> medium to small ratchet adapter -> small ratchet extension -> small articulated extension -> 10mm Spark plug socket. You can see my working space on the right. The bike sounds amazing now. I think I can actually hear the cams on idle going "wop wop wop wop". It is too early for me to say whether I have gained any power or if its the placebo effect. Although the rpm problem still remains. It doesnt feel as boggy, but holy hell it doesnt sound healthy either. I will try to do another spark plug test soon once it is dry and warmish. May I ask, what speeds are you guys getting to with each gear? I'd like to know how this thing compares with whats going on.
  14. That is AWESOME!!!
  15. I have a development to share. Just today I took the bike out for its last ride before I empited the coolant and oil. I noticed that my bike was running incredibly well in the cold weather. I let the engine get up to temp before I left the driveway, so its not the engine thats cold. Could the thicker cold air really make such a difference? What does this mean in terms of the fuel mixture? Yeah I know I still need to fix it before I ask this question seriously. Speaking of, I bought an electric heater so I can work on it in the shed this winter. I regret to say, but what you heard in the video is all its got. I have read up and again the vacuum leaks could cause an artificial redline of sorts. As far as I understand its because the engine cant get any more fuel or air to keep going. We are going to find out soon. Pleeeeasse wish me luck with these next few weeks. I am having nightmares of cold bolts snapping in half