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All things considered, our bikes have a very limited top end push and we hit a wall around 140 mph realistically. Has someone modified their fuel tank, to facilitate a ram air duct to the front fairing area? I saw bodywork for the RVF that indicated this was happening then. Has anyone undergone this now? http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/hondaz/RVF75093.html case in point... One could maybe use a duct under the front fairing, or repurpose the rather gigantic turn signal spots for ducting. A turn signal 2-into-1 setup would yield positive pressure at 80 and above, no doubt. and since the ducting would be travelling up a decent ways I don't think water ingestion during bad weather would be much of a factor in not running a setup like this at all times. Does anyone have 2 cents on the matter? As it so happens, this is the RC45's airbox design. Note the crazy looking air filter, identical peripheral vacuum accessory setup, and the seemingly one-intake top box setup. Maybe if I got ahold of those intake stacks.... :) nah. they're like 44 pounds sterling each on the site I found this fiche on. like holy shit.

My bikes open air sensor started first doing some weird things, it says that outside air temperature is very low, and after a while it started to just display 2 lines. Next day it was only 2 lines. I read that it might be faulty sensor or connection problem, but when I took everything apart, I didnt find the sensor, only clue was that it was on the nose of the bike. Could someone help me to locate the sensor, as the connector which comes from the speedometer is disconnected.

Hey guys, the clutch lever on my '98 5th Gen is suddenly feeling different immediately after I picked it up from a laydown on the grass. Went wide in a parking lot turn after hitting an edge trap, and it just slipped out from under me and plopped onto it's left (clutch lever) side. Wasn't very hard or violent, just some shallow whtie scratches on the left fairing. But the clutch lever, which looks totally fine and undamaged to my eye, felt much weaker. It takes much less effort to pull it in, until the last 1/4 of pull when it's at the handlebar, which is also the same place the friction zone has now moved to. It used to be the clutch would engage as I let the clutch lever nearly totally out. say 3/4 all the way out. Now that friction zone of the clutch is right next to the handlebar/grip, and the rest of the clutch travel is noticablly weak. It works, I rode it the few blocks home but it worries me that the friction zone suddenly moved. What could the problem be? 1. The clutch fluid is murky/brownish (although according to owner it was replaced last season), I've been told to replace it so maybe that has something to do with it? 2. Maybe some of the air in the fluid resoivour on the grip got into the piston or fluid line to the clutch when it was tipped over and the fluid was sloshing aroudn not where it normally is? 3. When the bike did drop I somehow accidently gave it a big rev before immediately shutting it off. Probably happened when the wheel lifted into the air (adrenaline of dropping the bike clouds my memories, you guys know how it is). Could that very short hi reving have cooked the cluth somehow? 4. Lastly there is an adjuster wheel on the clutch lever. I've played with it and it doesn't seem to have helped but maybe the drop somehow moved that? Thanks for any adivce or tips, I badly need it!! - Josh