vanion2

Yep. I just recently had to order a part for a Goldwing that I damaged when my bike tipped over. Saved me about the same for the part and the Goldwing owner was completely satisfied with his new OEM Honda part that matched the paint perfectly. This was after doing some comparison shopping around a few of the websites that usually offer good prices.

As long as Keith keeps offering those competitive prices I will keep shopping there at Mason City.

Wow. Nice first post. This should be interesting to watch. Good luck (maybe PM BLS to get his attention?).

Very nice! +1 on the pilot's view of the cutoff.

And the purpose of baking your parts is?

Does it release some adhesive or something?

Obviously I have not read the instructions.

Yep. Softening the glue that binds the shield to the housing.

As far as I know there are no internal ballasts unless it is some high end cage and the projectors would be even bigger to accomodate them. Not something you would want for the VFR.

You probably could have freed up some space by removing the lower reflector. Something you may want to consider as you don't want the projector touching the lens. Vibrations will cause scuffing of the projector and create hot spots in you beam pattern. That and the heat of the projector could potentially melt the lens over time also causing beam pattern distortions.

I know this means baking it again but you probably want to do this anyway because it will be easier to adjust the projectors with the lens off anway to make sure you have a nice horizontal spread when you test everything on the VFR.

Still, this is looking very nice and I give you massive kudos for doing HID the right way.

Here's a how-to for HID projector a guy did on another bike: http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pdf/trs_tech/Sportbike_Stage_III_Retrofit_Kit.pdf

Putting HID bulbs in your stock housing is bad for oncoming traffic and illegal. Don't be part of that crowd. If you want to do it right look here:

http://www.theretrof...e.com/index.php

Retro fit is the only way to go. Also cheap ballasts = crappy flickering and lower bulb output and life. Each bulb should have its own ballast. That's how they are designed. Stay away from eBay for your components because you get what you pay for. I replaced my cheap Xentec ballasts with the Morimoto ballasts at the site above and the difference was huge using the same bulbs. The cost was significantly more but the quality was worth it to me. I don't want to keep swapping ballasts or bulbs every couple of years.

Everytime I see someone running cheesy HID bulbs in their stock housings I just turn on my MR2 lights and when the projectors drown out their crappy spread it makes me grin.

No need to replace the rear pads if they have plenty left. I never have had my front and rear pads need changing out at the same time yet.

Nice to show off your work covered in bug guts. At least we know they will hold up to impacts.

Send a PM to Darth Bling.

He made a kit for a number of us with the mirrors and adapters:

http://www.vfrdiscus...ors-on-6th-gen/

It's been a while, but he may still be able to set you up.

Pics or it didn't happen!

I put wider rims on all my vehicles...except for the bikes. I love railing in the twisties too much to take away from that. That said I see no problem with people making the bike more suited to their riding styles.

Keep thinking out side the box and take plenty of pics along the way.

Looks good so far.

Honda is like any other major automotive producer. They will always do what's in their best interest first. That usually means what's in your's as they want to sell you their product but if they can get away with something they will.

And sales reps (of any retail product) are a total waste of time. Half the time they are ignorant of what they are selling and the other half they will tell you only what you need to hear to get a sale. So in the future don't waste your time and energy with them.

Simply start a petition and forward it to customer service when you feel you have enough signatures. Keep in mind though that even if you do get a response it won't happen quickly as it has to happen in a way that protects Honda first and you've all ready bought the bike so they won't feel the need to rush. Good luck!

I'd leave my boyfriend for this bike.

Ouch! lol.

Damn nice XX though. You got that looking shaweet!

Ugh...I need to get you an updated shot of my bike. The one you have still shows the original corner panel before it was painted and doesn't have the vinyl striping that was added a week later.

Love the whole setup though. That was a great idea and very organized.

.... Fortunately, with a bit of work, the trumpets can be seperated from the compressor and mounted remotely.

-Jake

That's what I did. Not too difficult really, and the compressor is more protected

Same here. Mounted the compressor on the left side vertically so it is covered by the side fairing and mounted the trumpets under the front cowling pointed down for drainage. Just ran an air line from the compressor to the trumpets and nothing but sweet, heart wrenching, music ever time some cager tries something stupid. I keep forgetting how loud it is until I have to use it again.

Thank you indeed! Every time we get a computer challenged VFR member quoting a ride report I cringe. Score one for the HS maestro!

I buy off eBay all the time. Haven't been burned yet but then I also read the feedback ratings, stick to certified sellers when possible, know what I want before I shop (IE a name brand), and live by the rule "If it seems to good a deal it probably is." I will pay a little extra gladly from a better rated seller any day and always use a credit card even when using PayPal.

I do agree that the BS eBay and Paypal make you go through to get a refund are stupid retarded but the one time I had to go through it I got my money back and they shut down the account of the offender.

Always good to know about a particular seller though so thanks for that.

You probably should have insisted on the refund first before changing your feedback but hind sight being what it is...

I have to hand my badge to the gate guard every time I enter so what I simply do is tuck it in the front right corner inside my tank bag. I have a clear visor in there for "just in case" so it holds the badge up against the side wall quite nicely. On approach to the gate I simply unzip that side of the tank bag. I pull up to a stop next to the guard, reach in and hand the guard the badge. When done I slide it back in and ride off. I zip up the bag once clear of the gate while driving down the road. Total time is about 10 seconds. No modifications required. Badge is always safe and out of sight.

As opposed to the cruiser riders who pull up and spend near a minute fishing it out of their shirt pocket pissing everyone off stuck behind them.

I suck at waiting and to see this finished in a couple of months....ugh.

Totally worth the wait though. Great job thus far. Looking forward to the finished project and break in ride report.

For you ABS riders out there the Fuzeblock fits quite nicely behind the front right turn signal under the fairings there.

@Chuck2: The brake light has 3 wires. One negative (used for both filaments in the bulb) and one postive for the running light portion (which turns on when you turn the bike on) and the 2nd positive is to activate the 2nd filament in the bulb for the brake lights. Tapping into the running light portion means his relay turns on only when the bike is on. You don't want to tap into the "brake" light wire or you relay will only turn on when you hit the brakes.

And I simply ran my negative wire to chassis for the ground. You don't have to wire the Fuzeblock negative to the battery negative in order for it to work.

Would it be easier just to get a 5th gen? My VTEC doesn't kick in ever. And the cam chain tensioners never need adjusting. No valve float...

/fail - move along...nothing interesting to see here.

Ok, that explains the difference in power over 6,800 rpm. I wonder what difference you would get if you made those modifications first, mapped the fuel injection for optimum performance and then rigged the engine to run on 4 valves constantly and then mapped the fuel injection for that. My view is that VTEC is mainly for noise and exhaust emmissions, does nothing to improve performance and just adds a lot of complexity to the engine. JB

You would probably see a curve that almost matches the 2nd run after the modifications. I see the peak hp on the 2nd run about 107 hp which is typical with a tuned VTEC VFR without the VTEC modification you were asking about. The first run looks like a stock VFR base line curve. Even the torque curve looks normal with typical gains with a properly mapped PCIII/V or similar product.

So in a nut shell running all 4 valves all the time doesn't look to gain you anything more than what you would get from the usual performance mods and tuning based on what I see in the graphs. Of course you can do the mods and have it tuned and then do the VTEC mod yourself and compare them.

Looking good so far! Keep rolling out the updates.

I don't know where to get them. Just curious why you want them though.

If you want to protect from tip-over, then regular sliders will do just fine.

These bars will do nothing to protect plastics in case of a crash at any speed above 5 MPH. They may result in even more damage though when they fold and crush plastics and possibly radiators. Just my 2C

Crash bars are much more effective than frame sliders. You just don't see them used often because they are typically focused on the stunt bike market.