vanion2

Just out or curiosity, is your ignition switch sticking?  My 02 switch starting doing that because I think the spring got worn out.  Just an easy thing to check and one more thing to eliminate before the deep dive into wiring world.

The VFR has found a new home.  Moderators are welcome to delete this post.

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

Here's the GW in the sunlight at 10K feet above sea level. 

 

And because this is a VFR site I won't keep posting pictures of the GW after this.  I don't want anyone think that I don't love and have the utmost respect for the VFR. 

3 hours ago, rangemaster said:

Hello vanion2,

I haven't been on in a bit and when I do I see your 'back in the fold'. So sorry to hear about your close escape at the house, super happy you and yours all made it through without injury. Everything else is just 'stuff'. Is ZIA VFR still around? And, did you consider a ST 1300 ? guy at work has one and loves it. I sent you a PM.

Rangemaster

ZiaVFR is still around.  I am hoping to set up a ride with him in the very near future.  You are always invited and I will keep you in the loop.  I did consider an ST1300.  I tried to test drive one but it was so heavy and I couldn't get both feet on the ground that I didn't even take it for a test drive.  It has a custom seat and the salesman didn't know how to adjust it. 

First 2 up ride today.  Another pass down S14 only this time at a more sedate pace with the wife on the back.  Her response after the ride?  "Love my throne!"  Apparently the GW has been royally blessed. 

2 hours ago, TimC said:

 

Maybe they're comfortable, but I've never understood the thought of, "Hey, I know!  Let's make part of the motorcycle you hold onto more slippery!!"  Genius.  

Seriously?  Give a guy a few days to upgrade those grips!  I have seen them on a lot of Goldwings so I am not sure they aren't standard.  And they aren't heated which I object to since I spoiled myself with heated grips on the VFR.  Can't be rolling around on that couch without heated grips!  🤭

 

Anyway, I finally got it out on some twisty roads and I'll be damned if I can't lean that GW through my favorite S turns as fast as my VFR.  It's only slightly disjointing when the foot pegs touch down and make pretty sparkles.  Maybe it's just me but it seems easier to lean on the GW than the VFR.  I suspect the low center of gravity is the culprit.

 

Cool commercial by the way.

I got to get into some leans this morning and was surprised at how planted it felt.  I am still learning where the limits are but I can't wait to ride it again.  Good thing I drove it to work this morning.  😁

3 hours ago, Dutchy said:

 

 

 

Highway pegs are coming off and the pin striping.  Possibly the driver back rest as well if I can't tighten it down.  It flops around right now. 

Just over 43K miles.  No ABS so that will take a little getting used to again.  I will get some out door shots when I get it registered so you will have to settle for this as proof I have one now (and the beautiful VFR just behind it).  😋

The cases that I lost the keys for were V35 side cases.  Still someone may benefit from that information so thanks for sharing!

Just added an 06, pearl white Goldwing to the stable.  Now I am in trouble because what does that mean for my beloved VFR that I have been riding since 2006?  The good news is I own both of them out right so I have time to decide which one will be the keeper but my gut already tells me I may be seeking a new home for the VFR.  I love it but the riding posture on the VFR is hard on my lower back (even with conditioning and focus on using my core) and after a few hours of riding it really takes a toll.  It's why I had to find the next best thing.  The FJR1300 I test drove felt more like work than fun but the Goldwings (yes, plural) I test drove had that VFR feel to it.  Inspiring and fun (yes, an almost 900 lb bike fit that description).  Best of all, the seating position is perfect for me without modifications (I have custom bar risers and extended brake/clutch lines on the VFR) and the seat.  Wow.  No more sore butt in my future.  I will need to put the GW through its paces before reaching any real conclusions to be fair and I know I can't expect to be able to carve as deep on the VFR but more of my rides have been about smooth versus fast and since the house fire my wife has been wanting to 2 up with me and our last ride on the VFR left her a little sore from the seat.  I don't expect that will be a problem with the Queen's throne.  

 

No, I don't have the space for MBD and don't want to pay $400+ per year on insurance on a bike that hardly gets ridden.  Besides, both of those bikes need regular exercise and I don't want either to get neglected.  And my daughter sat on the Queen's throne last night as asked that when I was done riding it for good if she could have it and she is only 9 years old.  😆

T

On 5/8/2021 at 5:20 PM, ShipFixer said:

Yes - these are easy to replace with new tumblers and keys.  Part number is Givi Z228:

 

GIVI Z228 3 Lock set and 6 matching keys https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0046AYXQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_B6ZFFKZAZ2MXPG0VVJZC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Already got that kit on the way.  ;)

 

On 5/9/2021 at 8:52 AM, JZH said:

Well, a bit late now, but don't all GiVi lock cylinders have the key codes etched onto the face of the cylinder?  It's the same code stamped into the keys. 

 

Mine all do, but they're all pretty old by now.

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

Mine do as well.  Unfortunately that did not help at all as the keys Givi use are hard to find even in a locksmith's shop.  They tried several keys based on the key codes and even tried to make one from scratch with no success.  Besides, now I will have all 3 cases keyed the same since I ordered the kit ShipFixer listed above last week so I call that a win regardless.

Never mind.  I took the side cases to a locksmith and I am glad I did.  They tried to make a key which surprised me because my research turned up just making a duplicate was a challenge.  As expected they were unsuccessful.  Next was trying to pick the lock.  Also unsuccessful.  Apparently the Givi locks are no joke.  Finally it was drilling the locks out.  If you choose to do this be careful and take your time.  You need to go at a slight angle towards the top of the case and don't go too deep.  There will be a slot on the bottom that a flat head screwdriver can be used to unlock the case.  If you go too deep then you're hosed.  It cost me a total of $35 for both (YMMV) and it was worth it after watching them.  

 

The good news is the Givi lock and keys sets are easy to find on Amazon for a reasonable price so I ordered a new set and removing the lock assembly is pretty easy.  

So I have 2 x V35's that are locked closed and no keys to open them with.  Any suggestions on how to get them open without damaging the cases?  I  already ordered a new set of Givi locks with keys so I  don't care if the current locks are destroyed but I  need the cases intact.

 

TIA!

I wanted to add a few more things here.  I ran across a couple riding the R1250RS.  It was impressive to look at so I asked the pilot how he liked it.  He said it was a great bike and his only complaint was replacing the rear tire every 3000 miles.  I wasn't clear on if that was due to the fun factor or always 2 up riding.  

 

To be honest though my next bike is going to be a used Goldwing.  I made the mistake test driving 2 different ones after testing an FJR1300.  You can lean those a lot more than you think and the weight being so low was even easier to handle than my 02 VFR.  Seating position was very close to the 1000SX, I could one foot it at stop lights comfortably, and they move quite quickly with a bit of throttle. 

 

The R1250RS would scare me trying to move it around my garage and the 1000SX could 2 up but my wife won't due the sport bike perches any more so I would always be riding solo.  Throw in a Goldwing with a queen's thrown that is still putting smiles on my face in the twisties and I win.  In the mean time I will just have to "settle" for my VFR.  

Kawasaki Ninja 1000SX.  I got to sit on one and it felt just right.  It's also light.  I could see myself putting miles on that bike comfortably. 

Funny that I just saw this thread. I just finished replacing my R/R. Stator checked out just fine.

2002 VFR with just under 64k miles. The connectors from the stator were burnt. Badly. I was lucky nothing caught on fire. Replaced with an SH847 R/R and new wiring kit. I pray the stator never goes because funding one for an 02 would be a nightmare.

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Well the R/R kit arrived and was installed. Nice kit. Came with solder bridges and heat shrink that I used on the stator wires (I don't crimp on vehicles) so I know it won't come loose or suffer from debris. Did the stator test again at the connector to double check and all was well.

Fitting that beefy SH847 R/R in the stock location was a chore. I had to lose the fairing bracket and shoe horn it in but it fit, just barely, without bending any wires from the connectors. From there I routed the battery wires under the tank, like I did for the VFRness I removed, and wired it up to the battery. Before buttoning everything up I turned her on and the volt meter read 14.4V at idle. Satisfied, I put everything back on the bike only to discover the large breaker on the positive wire was in the way of the seat. Due to it's placement on the wire there was no place I could tuck it out of the way so I had to work the seat on but got it to fit. I will probably address that issue in the near future because I am picky like that.

I took her out on a trial run and the volt meter stayed stay at 14.4V but never got higher than 14.5V. Of course when I ran the high beams it dropped 1V but that was expected. Call me satisfied and happy to have my VFR back on the road. I especially love the fact that it bypasses the stock harness ridding me of all the known harness issues.

Thanks for pointing in that direction. Jack was a pleasure to do business with. Very responsive and quick to ship the kit. The kit wasn't cheap but then quality work rarely is.

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Nevermind. I really should do all the reading on the roadstercycle website before asking questions already answered. Lol. Taping off the connector and tuck it away. I love simple solutions.

And Jack is very responsive to email. Already confirmed my order will ship on Monday. I love responsive customer support.

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I ordered Jack's adapter plate with the kit.

Now what do I do with the 6 pin connector that comes from the stock R/R? The one with 5 pins? Does the SH847 connect to it? Or will I need to modify it like I will the stator 3 pin connector?

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Thanks for the information! I ordered the kit just now with the SH847. I emailed Jack last night and he said the same thing. This will also fix the charred stock connectors. And I will definitely solder and heat shrink the cables.

 

I use a Fuzebox to power my accessories so that won't be an issue.

Guess I better start pulling the VFRness off now.

 

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Never mind. I see the super kit package and it specs out the wiring length.

Have you done this to your VFR? Any pointers for installation? What all did you purchase yo make this straight forward?

Sorry for so many questions but I want to do it right the first time because I rely on my VFR and want to get everything needed at once so I can get her back on the road.

TIA

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What Rectifier did you order?
 
If it's that Rick's one I see on the site, cancel the order. Abort. Abort. Abort.
 
The best bet is a SH847, or at the very least a FH020AA. With a kit from roadstercycle you bypass the stock wiring harness entirely, negating a need for a VFRness as well.

Ok. You have my attention. I don't see a VFR specific harness though so If you know the length that is needed please educate me.

And are you saying I can get rid of the VFRness if I go this route?

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It finally happened.  My trusty 02 VFR started showing low voltages on the voltmeter I had installed.  Regardless of rpms it was reading 12.2V - 13V.  I pulled off the right cover, disconnected the stator connector and ran the stator tests.  .5 Ohms or less leg to leg.  Reading open leg to ground on all three legs.  Idle voltages were reading mid 20VAc and reved up to 6K rpm was showing 75VAc.  Of course the connectors were fried and then some though.  Glad to know the stator is still operating as the 02 stators are next to impossible to find.  (Is it true the 03+ stators don't fit?)

I know it isn't the battery as it was purchased at the beginning of the month when my last battery gave up the ghost and wouldn't even turn over the engine.  Thankfully this was in my garage.  When I put the new battery in is when I noticed the voltages were off.  But the problem is intermittent.  Sometimes it would read low and other times it would read fine.  Not willing to be left stranded though and with the intermittent problem progressively getting worse I decided after 66K miles and 16 years I would just go ahead and get everything cleaned up.

 

Off to wiremybike.com I went and ordered a new mosfet R/R, a new 3 pin connector kit so I can replace the charred pair that I have, and a new VFRness relay as mine was hot to the touch even when the bike had been sitting for the past couple of days.  Makes me think that my relay had failed and was shorting.  Now I am just waiting for everything to ship.

 

So Tightwad, if you read this know that I have sent you an inquiry with some questions.  Most specifically, how long will I have to wait for that R/R.  😉

My 6th gen is at 66k miles and this past year I had to replace fork seals (and of course the fork oil and dust seals), the clutch pack, chain and sprockets. The only thing left on my list are tires but I still have some miles left on my PR2s so it's time to catch up on my ride time (down for 2 months) now that every thing is finally back together.

I was seriously close to trading it in on a FJR1300 but the 2 test drives I did on the Yamaha left me uninspired so I decided to keep the VFR. It always leaves me smiling and I couldn't say the same about the FJR.

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Good news! I figured out what I did wrong. I did indeed switched the A and B friction plates. I needed to read the Honda manual closer because it even says the first friction plate inserted has the largest ID.

 

I took it for a test drive to fill up the tank and it shifts beautifully. I am so happy to have her back on the road. Thanks for all your help!

 

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