dr.toto

Thanks to everyone who posted that has exp. with these items. You helped me make some decisions. For us old guys that have regular work exp., it's great to find out the pitfalls before spending money.

Sad story. This happens all to often in the performance industry. Cycles, cars, dragsters, you name it. It shows that lots of people have trusting souls. That is better than being an all out cynic. The difficult part is knowing when to cut your losses and retrieve your stuff. In the hotrod world a few years ago, United Speedometer came to light in a negative way. People lost their obsolete speedos with no way of retrieving them. I'd hate to be the guy doing a restoration and having the only one of something and having a business rob me of my property. My sympathies to all who lost out with this guy.

Welcome to the forum. If you have found the right links, you'll see detailed info on conversions.

I have a 600 f4 unit that I just weighted. This was with the axle, spindle, brake caliper and mount , chain adjusters and a little dirt. 16 lbs.

When you get finished, I'd like for you to weight it and see how much weight you removed. Welcome to the board.

I made my own helibars. They are perpendicular to the forks as you mentioned. It made alot of difference for me.

Add me to the list on 5th gen. I doubled the 4 charging wires running back to the battery and gained almost 1 volt at 5 grand. The idle volts are up about a half volt. It never has been right since I put a new regulator on about 2 seasons ago so I'm ready to go with one less worry. :biggrin:

Back in the late 80's and early 90's, someone was selling 11mm blower drives. I assume you know this because RCD made your pulley. I have forgot most of what I knew about this. I was a believer in the 14mm that was real common. I think if you do some research with blown alky racers, you might find out if there is another source.

I printed off Scootrs test info. It was an eye opener for me. The only thing that wasn't really discussed was "when do you need the higher level of protection"? For the average rider, you can use any oil, change it regularly, and run your bike 100,000 miles, disassemble it, and not find much wear. If we're going to have the oil poll, lets not forget the filters, too. :P

20 days? Did you take alot of breaks? The end result is nice.

I bought one on ebay last night. I'll see if this is the fix for my missing .5 volt.

My sympathies. It's real hard to watch a creation die. I think you'll find the new direction to be very good. Those of us with dual sports have just as many smiles as other riders. We get to see the other side of the mountain also. :D

For those that want to know, this mod has been done on just about every modern sport bike. I first read about it on the ZX12 forum several years ago. Most bikes need some work to adapt. How many mods cost less than $50?

The 2 differences in the 954 and 929 shocks are: spring rate and location of the gas canister. I used a 954 and changed it out for the 929. I only weight 140 lbs. The spring rate wasn't a problem. The 929 canister is farther away from the exhaust pipe. I felt more comfortable about that. The tech at Penske said that the oil temp in the shock is more controlled by the usage of the shock rather than it's environment. Either works fine.

The part I like most is this guy has a HAAS and I don't! :D

First, you remove the calipers, you may find it easier to loosen the bolts on the rotors before removing the axle and then removing the rotors. Then loosen the clamps on the axle,unscrew the axle and cautiously remove it while supporting the weight of the wheel so as to not damage the treads. Rotors bend easily so don't allow the wheel to lay on them. Remove both rotors. You have the 2 bearings and center spacer to remove. You can push the spacer off to one side that allows access to the bearings at either end. Using a long drift or flat end punch, evenly tap out one bearing at a time. Don't miss and hit the seal on the bearings. After you have removed the components and the tire and valve stem, find someone with an aluminum vat to throw the wheel in. They have carb cleaner in them. If you have your wheel blasted, you will have more work to do. An engine machine shop would be where I would go to find the vat. An engine vat is caustic and will destroy the wheel in minutes. So, make sure it's only carb cleaner or something else similar. It is possible to use aircraft grade paint stripper also. If your wheels are high mileage, you should consider replacing the bearings. The rotor bolts may be very tight. Make sure you have the correct size tool that's not rounded to avoid rounding a bolt.

I'm with HS on the seat design. I just redid my cbr1000rr seat by cutting out the center and installing the foam off a gsxr1000 seat. Had I known about the temper foam, I would have tried that. I think I'm going to buy some to play with my dr650. I redid it 2 years ago but I'm not satisfied.