Auspanglish

The honda ccts are just a pore excuse for not a precision made item, the plunger fits loosley in the body, they can rattle brand new or down the road. Its nothing to do with the chain, its the cct plunger in its body that rattles. Some may think its the chain buts its not.

Bonded onto the tip?

And what if it breaks off??

:unsure:

Hola a todos:

Thinking of purchasing a magnetic oil sump bolt.

Have seen several on Ebay.

One thing's clear is they are a M12X1.50 bolt.

I have seen them available in several materials: steel, billet aluminium and the other seems to be some sort of bronze nickel coloured metal.

Which material should I go with? (Price seems to be +/- US$2)

'Nother question... is there a guide on here as to how many links if going up or down on number of teeth up front or up back or both or all cases...

16/43 = 110 links

Stock/+1 = ??

Stock/+2 = ??

-1/Stock = ??

-1/+1 = ??

-1/+2 = ??

Do we have a spreadsheet on the differences in speed compared to stock for each of these combos??

How do I work that out on paper (or in my head, or on a calculator...)

Say for example 120 km/h stock set up = XXX km/h with -1/+2, etc...

The problem still exists on 07's. On the freeway around 80 and the whole dash went out. No tach, speedo, gas gauge. It was daylight so I later learned that I had no taillight or headlight. Bike ran fine but I went straight home as a precaution. First time bothering to read this thread but I'm glad it's here. My 30 amp fuse is not blown and the red wire looks fine but the 30 amp connector is starting to discolor. Sounds like I need to look thru all my fuses. Do I need to run thru all of my wires to look for chaffing?

Check your stator outputs on all three phases... check resistance as well as see if any of the 3 are "communicating" that is, short circuiting beetween them... the specs are in the workshop manual (download it from the corresponding section)

Also I highly recommend you do this: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/62525-byc/?hl=%2Bkentucky+%2Bfried+%2Bconnector

Hi all,

the part number aren't the same; and definitely doesn't look the same, but still seem it might fit

I'm sure they will bolt up, BUT I would NOT run two different design calipers on the same front end as they No Doubt will produce different pad pressure from side to side which is NOT a positive thing!

But we already have differences from one side to the other due to the CBS depending on whether you actuate brake lever or brake pedal separately or both at same time... I don't think you'll have any problem as long as EVERYTHING lines up correctly... and you could use a double banjo on one inlet and run a short line over to the second inlet, like a lot of folk do on the rear calliper when eliminating CBS.

That said, I would send it back, on principle's sake... and then purchase Kaldek's calliper.

I put a 3 row cooler on my 5th gen probably 12 years ago and it's been great ever since. Not as large as an RC 51 unit, but if you are in the desert and it 100 degrees, I could see it being handy for sure.

Riding in near freezing temps, not so much.

When I have ridden in cold temps, my bike goes up to 83'C, the thermostat cracks open, then drops to 79'C, then slowly back up to 83 again.

You can watch the thermostat cycle over and over again. No idea what the oil temp is though, I haven't got a gauge.

I reckon that's where engine temp or coolant temp should be... right where the thermostat is constantly working... that way you are making the most of such a system... if the bike's always so hot that the thermostat never comes into action except when warming up the engine on start up, it sounds less ideal...

Of course the 6th gen requires certain conditions for VTEc to kick in... 64ºC "engine temp" being one of them... in cooler climates or in winter this may become a problem...

I stand half corrected (although it would appear my note has been purged)...

I had stated that the 4th gen requires notches in the mating surface of the rim and this is true... but it would appear the 3rd gen rim has notches that serve the purpose (I thought it did not) and thus does not require machining, albeit the 5th/6th gen rim does not have said notches and does require machining.

3rd gen 8-spoker mating surface:

http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/2251/67142973.jpg

All clear now??

Front wheels from '98-'09 all the same.

ABS equipped VFR's model have an ABS sensor ring on the front brake disc on one side. You can still use it on non-ABS VFR's though; the ABS ring can be unbolted and removed, which has no affect on the braking of a non-ABS bike.

Thanks for the info.

FYI-You will need to use the axle spacers off your 5th gen. I did the opposite (5th gen front on a 6th gen) and noticed the spacers are different widths.

I do believe that they are just switched over, the left one on the 5th gen is the long one and the other way round on the 6th but they're actually the same one's, just placed the other way around... don't know I I explained that properly...

BTW... having recently performed this operation (a U.S. CPU on a Euro 2006 VTEC), I can confirm this is necessary and succesful.

I would like to add the discovery that, at least in my case, it was also necessary to realign another cable that doesn't line up causing the instrument panel and front "parking" lights to not light up.

I don't have the exact details on me right now but suffice to say if you hold the two halves of the connectors side by side, you'll see the one that doesn't line up... that is, it's other half is in a different cell...

I believe on one side of the connector it was a black/red wire... got to hunt down the exact info and post it up...

We jumpered across and bingo, lights are on!! (Fuses are there to protect you, well not you, the electricals).

Dude i just sent you aa private message asking this very question.... you ALWAYS have the answer... looks like you knew I was going to ask...

this is wickedly excellent... thank you!!

The dif appears to be only some 0.4 mm which SHOULD be negligible... TFWHouse claims they sell 50,000 unit a pop batches to Honda fairing manufacturers... so I'm taking the plunge...

No one actually confirms whether the 1/4" clips from The Fastener Warehouse actually fit in the end or not (with the OEMs being 6mm)... I just ordered 1700 pcs for a group buy and am now concerned they don't work...

On the TFWHouse website they state they work on the VFR800...

Well it would appear that going over all the tubes and connectors for the nth time, the problem has been found... the idle adjuster cable was almost completely sheered through and a part that was sticking out was getting stuck as it rotated so... he could adjust the idle higher as it dropped while sinchronizing...

Part has been ordered and as soon as it's installed we'll know if that's all she wrote...

Friend of mine has performed this procedure recently on his 2006-on VTEC...

Since then, it backfires and in fact, even though he manages to get all valves in synch, the values he gets are low (14 mm/hg) and they are usually around double that I think.

What could it be?

Are the two tubes that conect to a brown two-way connector on the RHS of the air-filter box to go in a certain order? What happens if you put them back on switched around?

He can't find anything out of place so we are wondering if the 2006-on models have anything different to keep in mind...

He's probably disconnected another vacuum hose accidentally, probably the fuel pressure regulator hose. It connects to the two right-hand side cylinders so he's probably tried to sync the bike to cylinder #4 when that was already out of whack. There's also the flapper valve vacuum hose on the front left cylinder, and if it's a US-model bike with the evap cannister it has an extra vacuum line again for ALL the cylinders which can also be accidentally disconnected.

Gracias Kal... I'll translate that into Spanish for my fellow Spanish Club member and pass the message on to him... I'm also sending him my carbtune so he can contrast the readings... just in case his carbtune has some sort of blockage or failure (leak or not sealing right or maybe the little plastic cylinders that are moved up and down within the unit are not sliding properly due to dust or something inside...

Will post up any news as we discover it...

Friend of mine has performed this procedure recently on his 2006-on VTEC...

Since then, it backfires and in fact, even though he manages to get all valves in synch, the values he gets are low (14 mm/hg) and they are usually around double that I think.

What could it be?

Are the two tubes that conect to a brown two-way connector on the RHS of the air-filter box to go in a certain order? What happens if you put them back on switched around?

He can't find anything out of place so we are wondering if the 2006-on models have anything different to keep in mind...

I fail to understand why Honda would do this instead of just installing traction control (I know, the new blue VFR's having traction control). I love this bike, but as their technological flagship, it should have had traction control ...

This is easy to understand once you realize that the TC software wasn't fully developed in time for the 2010 release. Unlike other manufacturers, Honda doesn't like to release half baked solutions to let customers do the beta testing, something most of us would appreciate. The short term option was to moderate the power in the lower gears until TC was available.

Are you kidding?? Speaking officially on Honda's behalf...

uilt-in

The VTEC WAS a half-baked beta version which many an owner has had to suffer with the built-in electrical woes...

How do I know?? I own one!!

I lost almost all pressure in the rear brake pedal and front brake lever... (track day)... due to high temps and thus expansion of rubber lines..

Wow that must be one tight track!

Well.. the CBS system also ensures your brakes will heat up sooner as if I only use the front brake lever the rear brake comes into play and thus heats up and vice versa... they get less of a rest in a track environment... so it's easier for a CBS system to overheat than a separate "traditional" brake system to do so... also ambient temps in southern Spain in summer can get up to around 45ºC so that doesn't help... and it was a very tight track... I only had a little pressure left in what would be the separate front brake line and that was surprisingly enough to save my butt when the hammer came down... hasn't happened since, but I'm not really all that keen on a repeat... and any improvement is always welcome.

I would say this job is only cheap if you just focus on the front master cylinder and the five pistons (three right, two left) it activates. There are kits available for this job which are very cheap ($119 AUD), and consist of a long banjo bolt for the front master cylinder and two hoses - one to each caliper.

Essentially that would take care of the majority of braking problems right there.

I lost almost all pressure in the rear brake pedal and front brake lever... (track day)... due to high temps and thus expansion of rubber lines... I think the only line working was the independent front RHS.... and that's not all pots I believe... almost went to plow the fields if you get the expression...

You do know Hel do the kits.

http://helperformanc...=vfr800&x=0&y=0

It was a request I made that Kal is responding to.

Yes I know (and imagine Kal does as well) that a range of companies offer kits, but I have access to braided steel hose (and fittings) to measure at a local parts shop and it will probably cost me half as much as a ready made kit...

Why pay more??

The pic with your foot, is that the line pulled taught(straight)? Or is the line slack in that pic as well?

Incidentally, hose lengths are always measured as the distance between the fittings(actual hose length).

Thanks for that input Seb... so I should take references from the crimps and not from the banjos themselves.

Kal you are THE man... now I need to think of a way to repay the favour...

Thanks!

Wondering if you could slide the ebay seller's details over for the springs and plates?? Hope he has the VTEC equivalents.

I want to say they're the same?

Tricky one that... ron Ayers microfiche don't seem to coincide exactly... the inner disc is supposed to be different to the rest... in the fiche at Ron Ayers site the outer one is also a different reference number and although they mention the same ref for both bikes, they're not for the same position in the order of installation... so I'm stumped.

Do you get dizzy watching that thing spin??

Nice work, both of you!!

Wondering if you could slide the ebay seller's details over for the springs and plates?? Hope he has the VTEC equivalents.

Is VARSOL like Kerosene??