Auspanglish

What is your psychologist's opinion?

JT

This post just will not shrivel up and crawl away...

Where there more physical sensors added to the engine on the '06+? If not, then I don't see why you couldn't just straight up use a '06+ harness and ecu and been done.

There are no additional sensors. Essentially what you're suggesting is what I'm doing, except that I have Aussie headlight switch and indicator hardware which needs some tweaks to the front harness.

Believe me if I could just plug an '06 main harness into an '02 front harness I'd freakin' do it, but the other member (CBR600F4i) who has already done this mod said that's not possible.

Just for posterity's sake (and because I'm looking for some info on here regarding Euro - US CDI compatability, for a buddy), I plugged my '03 front harness directly into an '07 harness with no compatability worries whatsoever (although the '03 front harness DOES have the crappy yellow connector... but they are compatable)... just sayin' in case anyone ever has to consider doing it.

Ground control to Major Tom...

OK so I recently grafted my 03 chassis onto an 07 VTECker 6th gen... now I found one of my yellow stator wires all crispy and bubbly yesterday, from overheating... I had already elminated the OEM connctor and used a screw-down connector block... well actually a buddy did the work in my absence and I think maybe one of the wires wasn't screwed in well... at least I'm hoping that's all that's wrong cause my 03er already fried 2 stators in its 95,000 km lifespan.

Anyway... this old new inbred summer-mix frankenbike has the 07 main and rear harness and the old 03 front subharness with the shitey yellow ground connector removed and replaced with a profesional soldering job... although during the chassis-grafting procedure we found some browning of the Green ground wires around the soldering job and decided to excise and heal it all up... reinforced to an alternative grounding point on the chassis with an extra nice'n'thick gauge wire.

So I'm thinking maybe it's time to get a new front subharness... but I'm not sure which one I need as the CDI is from a US 2007 VFR, but the optics and relays and such on the front cowling bracket, as well as indicator lamps are from the old 03 model... so maybe the connectors for the lamps won't be the same... I know they changed the housings from 02-05 to 06-10...

Whatchall reckon??

Powerlet is about to launch a USB unit to plug directly into their socket, I implored them to make one and they replied they would get onto it. I'll post up the part reference number in a mo:

Edit, ref no is PAC-069, or will be as soon as it's out.

PS I do not work for Powerlet

So... wouldn't 6th gen ECU mean VTEC mapping for an engine with no VTEC hardware...???

Jeez Phantom... chronic procrastination is one thing... but actually seriously injuring yourself in order to have an excuse is completely another dimensión!!!!

:unsure:

I have 5 slipped discs so I can say "back pain"!!! And it really sucks the pus!!!

... well now you've gone and buggered it... I was enjoying this... neverending stooooooooooryyyyyyyyy... but you've just gone too far this time mate!!

No seriously, this thread is like those books you used to get where you could choose between 2 or 3 different courses at the foot of the page.

:beer: Get well..

Air filters are just to keep intake noise down?

Now that IS funny!!

Love to see how the air intake system deals with Christmas beetles for example.. and we could then assume that Marc Marquez' motogp bike doesn't use an air filter... I'll be removing my K&N then 'cause I actually dig that intake sound.. reminds me of a supercharged motor!!

With the cat con up to temp and a stock bike, pair activated... at idle, my 6.5 gen emits 0.05 CO2... the permisible level is 0.5... my catless 5th gen ('98) gives out 2.5... that's a 50000% difference... my buddy's 6th gen with Pair and Flapper disabled and O2 sensors switched over (apparently installed switched around at the factory), runs smooth but it is yet to bee seen that his emissions will pass roadworthy restrictions.

Sorry I know it's off topic... this thread is about why your reed valve casing melted, I guess we should leave the discussion regarding PAIR and such for the designated threads.

I think the question is whether or not it is not adviseable to remove the reed valves as regards the risk of getting cross-over leaking between cylinders, just as Coderighter is pointing out... thinking out loud, cylinder 1 and 3 in one bank and 2 and 4 in the other, do not have their exhaust ports open simultaneously... so exhaust from cylinder 1 could hang out in the section common to both cylinders upstream of the reed valve (one reed valve for both cylinders right?)... but I think you need not be concerned CR, as the exhaust port of the other cylinder would be closed, would it not? Not posible for those gases lingering in the comunal zone to enter the other cylinder, they will get forced through the reed valve when the other exhaust port opens and new emissions issue forth... neither do the cylinders in the one common cylinder bank fire one immediately after the other... also if I understand correctly and as an estension of the aforementioned, the reed valve doesn't separate one exhaust port from the other, but there is a "meeting of the ways" just prior to reaching the valve. Right?

Yet, if as Bassie sates, your block off plate has a leak, this would allow even fresher 02 on top of the reed valve... causing combustion on the upper side of the reed valve (when PAIR allows this to take place from underneath the reed valve)... this would definitely deform the rubber part as it's not designed for the combustion to come down from on top, but up from below...

Don't know if I'm making myself clear or not.

CO2 mafia crap!!

That's funny chit!!

I have always adjusted the idle to 1400 on all 3 VFR800s I have had.. remember, the manual says 1200+/-100.. so I'm only a smidgen over that spec.. The weak charging system on these bikes also benefits from this slight increase, compensating for low charge at idle when fan comes on.

I must say though, my recent substitution of the OEM exhaust for Laser Extremes really backed the engine braking off considerably, to the point where I have had to conscientiously adjust my braking habits to avoid blowing corner entry.. had a few heart in mouth experiences at first.

I didn't get the guides or shims, with my new chain... the ones that stop you from overpressing the faceplate on and binding the link up... anyone know the thickness of these guides so I can fab some homemade ones up...???

We want this project fully documented and photographed for posterity!!

A conmutator to change fan rotation direction with led indicator (thanks to holleros)

The power/current draw will fry up your switch. Not sure how much is the amperage of the blower's motor but for sure the switch from the picture won't last for long. Not to mention that the blade-s made to have better efficiency in one direction only.

Variable rot/min don't thing is an efficient idea.

My thought is on lower set temp for the temp switch, manual override for on position and, if so much like, a VTR blade.

I'm not so sure the switch won't last. One thing is for sure though, there is absolutely no point in reversing the stock fan's rotational direction, it will be very ineffecient.

Gentlemen, let's all keep in mind that several folk from this forum have already performed many experiments in a very thorough manner.

Swapping the thermoswitch out for one with a lower trigger temp has been tried and tested. The only thing one achieves with this mod is having the fan come on much more often, and this puts the electrical system under load, despite all the comments about it being an advantage running devices that use up the power the stator puts out in order to save the R/R from having to shunt it off to the frame... in theory it sounds good but I quick reminder to folks that the VTEC is famous for having a rather delicate wiring harness and many folks have seen how turning on the highbeams has fried their bike's electrical installation. Even if it is truly an advantage and does provide respite to the R/R, the problem isn't whether the fan comes on or not, it's being able to control WHEN it comes on, according to the conditions: slow traffic, traffic jams, lots of red lights, as when the bike has already heated up and the fan cycled 5 or 6 times, it has been demonstrated that it then becomes much more difficult for the fan to lower the temperature... it gets to a point where the fan is rendered useless (the temp no longer drops)... especially in hot climates like southern Spain or southern US.

The fan is also rendered useless once the bike is in forward motion. I have confirmed this time and time again on both my 5th gen and 6th gen. Above 25 km/h (approx), the two opposing flows cancel out. Nill effectiveness. Reversing the fan's direction will not help, if it doesn't match the natural airlfow it will only hinder the latter (at higher speeds... at lower speeds it does improve the cooling effect). It is far more effective to have the fan shut down.

Obvoiusly there is a danger to leaving the fan off. A timer or some other variable that would automatically revert the fan to normal OEM functioning would be ideal... in the absence of that, an idiot light would also be advisable.

So there is an advantage to being able to control the fan on demand, both forcing it on when off and forcing it off when on as previous posters have explained. Tightwad's idea is most excellent... especially the idea of the device advising the rider that the bike's OEM installation would prefer the fan were on, and also some sort of failproof function that reverts a manual override (off when on) after either a specified period of time or some other sort of parameter like a higher, more critical temp...

Obviously it is a perfectly attainable project...

I have personally swapped the OEM fan blade out for the VTR one which creates an airflow in the opposite direction, which favours the natural incoming airflow when the bike is in motion... up to a certain speed... once up at over 80 km/h, it's better to just have the fan turn off. On the other hand, with the bike at a standstill, it is hardly effective at all... if the weather is warm to hot, it works for maybe 2 cycles and then the temp just climbs ever so slowly. The fan never turns off... I don't know about the shunting business but my VFR has burnt out TWO stators so far.

Hopefully Josh will have one free hand someday and get this project up off the ground... I reckon it'll sell.

A conmutator to change fan rotation direction with led indicator (thanks to holleros)

Holleros isn't here!!

Is he??

A friend of mine has The Ducati Panigale, virtually every parameter is adjustable on that baby.. including engine braking.. and IIRR this adjustment was achieved by the system modifying The exhaust valve position.

cool!!

Isn't there an extra spare 10 amp wire on this wiring harness that I can tap into? One that has power only when the ignition switch is on? I have an 98-99 Honda repair manual. I don't see a "spare" wire listed anywhere in the wiring diagram.HELP.The 80's model Hondas had a brown "spare" wire usually located in the head light bucket or in that vicinity.

why not just tap into The front parking lights.. they're switched.. and that way If something goes wrong, you won't End up without headlights

Bimetal spring... the spring contracts and relaxes according to temp... pulling on the starter valves to allow more or less air into the mixture just as a choke would.

In my experience the idle drops when the bike's instrument panel starts to register a temperature. Which means around 36ºC. Below this temperature my VTEC's screen displays two hyphens. As soon as 36ºC pops up, the idle drops to the regular rpm I have my idle set to.

Lately my bike is NOT activating the fast idle as it should (temps are cold enough). SOMETIMES IT DOES AND SOMETIMES IT DOESN'T. The only thing I've done to the bike lately was to synch the starter valves and I wish I hadn't, even though it was idling rough and had a lumpy response to subtle on-off-the-gas throttle inputs... 'cause since I did, the bike started backfiring and then when I resynched (had gone too far with the front left adjuster), the fast idle stopped working.

The only thing I've managed to find is the rod that connects front row to rear row was slightly bent. Oh yeah, and now my idle adjuster doesn't want to be turned.

Bloody VTECs... someone should blow VTECs up!!

BTW Kal... no wax in that unit... it is apparently some sort of layered sandwich of unusual sounding metals that undergo some sort of change in shape or properties at different temps... read about some guy who took his apart with the idea of cleaning it and found there was no sight of wax... and on investigating he said that at some stage in the past, wax was used in such devices

More a MotoGP mod than a WSBK one!!

That bike is too sexy to call it a Mr...

That shock has the same adjustability as the stock shock... preload and rebound. Fullstop.

Can you not angle your bike just enough to pass through the gate and wiggle one mirror though, then the other?

I can confirm that constantly folding them in n out will lossen them and see them fold back at speed on the road...