Auspanglish

 
Just trying to offer a solution that focuses on exactly the weak point in the VFR electrical system being discussed in this thread. 
 
When I offer a more comprehensive solution (one that goes above and beyond the exact scope of the issue being discussed) I usually get blow-back or dismissal, usually related to the price of what I'm recommending.  So in this case I chose to recommend the cheapest, most tightly focused and expeditious solution.

It comes down to a fundamental principle of online forums :

You're damned if you do and you're damned if you don't.

Summa cum laude

My advice is that this would appear to be a separate topic to the present thread and it may be beneficial to start a separate topic for this matter.

Link to 5th gen equivalent:

 

 

https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/66045-urethra-i-found-it/&do=embed&comment=773553&embedComment=773553&embedDo=findComment#comment-773553

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yes to another ground wire.

You can't see electrons so you can't judge the effectiveness of a connector with your eyes. That's why someone invented multimeters.

Again the advice of this thread, is firstly, read the thread... and remove the connector, solder all the wires together PROPERLY, there's more than one way to do this... But cold solder or otherwise poor quality solder jobs are defeating the purpose... and run an extra wire to ground.

Period

5 Gen, 6 Gen, 8 Gen, don't think the bike would be that much to make a HUGE difference in tire performance. That's just my IMO.

Exackery

Theft

I must admit the aesthetics and acoustics of the Deauville were never "saints of my devotion" as they say in Spain.

Yet that blacked out look is not unpleasing to my eye.

I have always advocated that colour and such are unimportant in a secondhand bike relative to the mechanical state and apparent maintenance or upkeep. So I can now appreciate the bike is apt for the proposed purpose.

In Spain the local police ride them so they must be comfortable and reliable.

Trick: Of course you shouldn't go near it with a naked flame. Paper kitchen towel, serviette, tissue, mop it up, step away from the bike and see if the tissue burns (somewhere safe). If it's condensation it will be obviously hard to set fire to it.

 

 

How do you stain a tune?

 

If you think about it, staining something does not sound particularly flattering...

 

Found it! Thanks. Its in good nick. Will wait and see what Honda says, re recall. Then attack it with a soldering iron. In the mean time I've got panels to fix and then paint.
 
How thick a wire did you use from solder job to chassis. And where on chassis?
 
 

Thicker than the existing green wires... Maybe a 12 or 14 gauge I think.

There's a bolt which threads into the main arm of the chassis very conveniently on the left hand side about where the front and side fairings join. Ring terminal and you're sorted.

Sounds like multiple issues not from a common source I would hazard to guess.

 

Firstly, 2003 model... Get in touch with a Honda dealer and have them check via the VIN if the wiring harness recall was done. If not, have it done.

 

Next, it's not the oil temp displayed on the clocks but the coolant temp. The sensor is located on the rear right hand wall of the front cylinder bank. In the V of the engine. Not known to fail but there's always a first. You did well to swap in new coolant and burp the air as that's exactly the symptomatology you would expect from air trapped in the system according to what you described. The VFR can be stubborn to bleed air from, worth reburping.

 

It is possible some of these display related issues are the result of the crappy common ground bus connector which is in the front wiring loom, whether or not it's had the recall, Honda didn't change the connector for a decent effective one, so it is highly suggested you eliminate this connector, properly solder all the incoming and outgoing wires, including a reinforcement to an alternative ground with a decent gauge wire. There's a thread on here about it, I'll post a link A.S.A.P.

 

LINK: https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/62525-faulty-ground-connector/&share_tid=62525&share_fid=35196&share_type=t

 

The tachometer issue may be due to the mechanism which is a nylon female spindle (pardon the contradiction) which is located on the front sprocket nut and prone to gradual wear or breakage, and thus intermittent functioning.

 

It could also be due to the 6th gen's famous stator frying tendencies, search for a thread titled "the drill", or follow the service manual's indications for checking the Stator and charging system. Manual is in the download section on this forum. You will need a multimeter.

 

Good luck, once sorted it's a nice bike!

It's not such a difficult task to remove TBs, just time consuming.

Hope you angled all the screws so you can reach them with an extension through the TBs by just lifting fuel tank and airbox.

For some reason I'm absolutely sure about the future.

If my whatchamacallit doesn't fail me, the SP1 fan is the one you want, not the SP2 one. The info is on the forum in a thread somewhere...if people used the same thread instead of opening new ones the info would all be in the one place and easy to find.

Further Upstream from that blue connector hidden in the front wiring harness under the black electrical tape they use to wrap the wiring loom along the left hand side branch of the front fairing stay or bracket there is a common ground bus connector which is famous for failing even if it looks optically okay check this thread and do the mod...

https://scontent.fmad3-4.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/fr/cp0/e15/q65/36914223_2259554630938904_766663056884236288_o.jpg?_nc_cat=0&efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9&oh=32d146f7afd63ceac7e7f40dac795776&oe=5BCFBFDC

Leon that IS a run off zone and it CAN happen. Less statistically likely but possible.

Jealous, I inherited a 400D... 1100? Them's fightin' words them is!!

Peace!

When I asked what happens when someone drops a bike the question was met with dead silence and the guide quickly moved on to someone else.

Cazzo!!

7 Our Fathers and a bunch of Hail Marys to redeem yourself for even THINKING it!!

Awetastic pics!!

Don't like the thought of hitting those metal guardrails at the edge of the run off zone...

Today used my new TubO’Towels to clean my wheels after a 500mi trip last week. 

90 towels for about $10, took 10 to clean the wheels. So I’ll get nine uses from the tub at about $1 and change each wheel cleaning. 

They worked well. Would recommend. 

 

I'm also into keeping stuff clean but those towels don't break down and aren't recyclable, I know motorsports are far removed from environmental issues but the baby butt wipe towels, furniture cleaning towels, all these towels are creating massive headaches for waste disposal plants. Old rags and some elbow grease and pay it forward into your kids' future a little!!

 

Every little bit counts

It went pretty well except for them freaking out about me having a center stand. The track org made me try to take it off which I was fine with... only to realize I had to remove the whole rear exhaust header section. They let me by with it wired up tight. 

 

Continental sport touring tires performed very well. 

 

Great coaching. Brian knew his stuff. You can see me ride it here: 

 

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Looks like a fun track Urban

The 6th gen is an electricians nightmare

My snorkel never moves and my bike never makes that noise. Could this be a source of my running issues and low idle?

 The snorkel is not a moving part.  

The snorkel (#3) is that forward projecting protuberance leaving the upper right front part of the airbox and which angles downwards at its forward most extreme. Some remove this in the belief that the airbox "breathes" better. It certainly increases intake noise.

 

The part that moves is a trapdoor found on the upper left forward-facing part of the airbox. It is vacuum actuated facilitated by a valve (#8) and solenoid. It's a somewhat unrefined solution to air-petrol mixture requirements as the air pressure and engine requirements vary according to RPMs and actual forward motion. The latter "forcing" more air in due to supposed higher relative pressure outside the box being lower when slower and higher when you're going faster. We've all heard of ram air systems ramming the air in.

 

I personally think Honda haven't measured the pressure differentials where it matters and hence my reference to it as unrefined.

 

The trapdoor, commonly known as the "flapper", is responsible for the "tock" noise one hears at low speeds/rpms as it opens and closes, usually when setting off or manoeuvring around a carpark, for example.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

No, the thermostat has bimetal bits that lengthen or shorten at certain temps. You test it in a saucepan of hot water with a thermometer... Watch it open and close checking at what temps.

 

Temp range is specified in service manual, you can download on this forum.

 

 

Track use with fan running will see bike reach critical temps.

 

Still, check thermostat actually works, sometimes unluckily a new one can be a dud from the factory.

 

You really should install a manual override as fan on over 80km/h will just exarcerbate the nil air flow condition of fan flow direction being opposite to natural incoming airflow.

Find a fan that fits on the RHS rad with decent airflow capabilities. Turn off OEM fan and run your secondary fan in same direction as natural airflow.

 

I have burped a 6th gen up to three heat cycles until finally getting proper purge of all air and correct cooling, working of fan, auto choke function and such. The fucker just traps air everywhere.

 

You have to let the bike get up to roughly 92ºC if memeory serves... so the thermostat opens and you get the full circuit flowing. Careful blipping, you can shoot burning hot coolant into your face or other body parts. Shut bike off before massive gushing occurs. The idea is bring it up to temp, blip getnly a few times and turn off. Rinse, recycle and repeat. Cover all electrical components in the area to protect from getting wet, especially the stator to R/R connector. Bike must be on sidestand during this procedure.

 

Life's a biatch, then you crash, burn, rise like a Phoenix and life's still a biatch.