Auspanglish

So dragging this out of the annals....

Does it matter if the internals are F4... or F4i.... that is ¿what year model must they be from to gain rebound adjustment in 6th gen vfr800 forks?

I'm keeping the lowers as I'm too lazy (don't have access to proper working space) to have to fiddle with the brakes (lose the LBS),

What valves and shims and so forth should I get and what configuration should I install them in to make the appropriate improvements in hydraulic action to make this worth doing???

I'm in the south of Spain and looking at slightly bent forks to save on costs. This must be easy on the wallet for me to take on the project.

Jamie Daugherty I see you have a wealth of knowledge on the mattter and figure you do this stuff for a living... you're too far away for me to make use of your services but if you or anyone else were to whisper some advice in my ear (ie MP me) I would be eternally grateful. I understand this is probably like asking a chef for his secret recipe, but I'm a DIY kind of person and will eventually work it out for myself... trial and error etc... the great thing about VFRD and my local Spanish forum is the generous sharing of knowledge... I have been known to write up how-tos on ClubVFRSpain. So here's hoping that what goes around comes around.

Was just flipping through the manual looking for front wheel bearing specs and discovered an error in the 6th gen workshop manual.

In the secton on assembling the front forks, right after detailing the 100 mm gap from the top of the fork upper to the level the fork oil should come to (100 mm), It mentions to remove the cylindrical spacer (collar) and seat (washer).

The error obviously lies in the use of the word "remove" instead of "install". It's quite obvious as it is right smack bang in the middle of the assembly instructions but if someone were to follow the manual blindly...

I like the high-security fence to keep people who covet others' possessions out.

Congratulations Leon!!!

Which one of you was Purring like a Lion??

So instead of reading impossible volumes of threads, I figured I'd throw out this question:

Is it possible to drop the F4i internals + fork cap into my 6th gen's forks to gain rebound adjustability?

Or is swapping out the entire fork(s) necessary (i.e. tube-cartridge assy and brake callipers)?

That way I could keep the original CBS brake set-up (roadworthy inspections are getting stricter and stricter in Spain)

I've put up with the sloppy front end on this thing for too long now and seeing how the new 8th gen has rebound adjustment I figure that's all that's really missing.

No real interest at ClubVFRSpain.es I'm afraid Seb... bloody crisis!!

I'll ask At the VFR forum here in Spain.

If I manage to get a job I'm in.

I reckon so.

What say yea all?

They do in Spain

I believe some folks have swapped out the OEM oil cooler for the SP1 which has an extra tier. Obviously in cooler climes this might have the bike running too cold for VTEC operation. Too cold is equally as bad as too hot.

I have been tempted many a time due to the extremely hot temps of southern Spain. But found that using a good quality and slightly more expensive coolant with a wider range of temperatura tolerance has solved the issue of overheating.

Don't thank me yet as the Replacement harness for the 02-05, may have a Yellow One.

I'm not sure if this will help but the shoddy common ground bus connector on the front subharness on the 2002-2005 is yellow and on the 2006-2010 it's orange... bit of a PITA to get to as it's on the front left arm of the bracket that holds the front fairing/headlight assy. You would have to disassemble somewhat.

... and you removed the mufflers...

I'm using a PC RACING FLO reusable filter

http://m.ebay.com/itm/180549242959?_mwBanner=1&rmvSB=true

Just rinse, recycle and repeat!!

Someone doesn't get the point!!

Nice write up!!

Want to mention I never did the Manual pumping of the SMC and never had any Dramas.

Thanks Grum...

It's not Winter by any means at the mo here in southern Spain (40-50ºC). But my VTEC is not idling right...

I synched the valves a couple of months ago but must have done something wrong... it gets worse the more I use the bike... wierd... or is that weird?

Tightening up the tensioner springs is all about trying to get more life out of the existing tensioner before spending the bucks on new ones.

A manual one has the inconvenience of not having BMW spring or hydraulic damping, so it won't absorb any chain lashing if this were to occur. The greatest risk I can see in a manual one is if you overdo it when dialing in the amount of turns as you may be forcing the guide too hard up against the chain causing premature wear and stretching it to The point you are back not at square 1 but -1 as you would then need to swap out the entire timing chain and gear assembly. Expensive remedy.

You may be able to er on the side of caution until you manage to get silent operation but you will always have an unforgiving threaded rod up against the chain guide. Some people swear by them. I guess the forward one will be a bit of a pain to adjust due to the tight access but... your decision.

You want this: 16044-MAT-E01

_OK

I don't quite follow you Rice.

Idle al 10,500 rpm?

Idle should be 1,200 rpm.

I never adjusted the fixed cylinder.. I understand that one not to be adjustable.

I just plugged the manometer in, and adjusted the 3 adjustable cylinders to align with the fixed one and then adjusted the idle to 1,200

I have never understood why the damn cap has to be so loose-fitting.

Chin up and try a supermagent on a string or thin wire.

Maybe removing the sump would suffice instead of entire engine out.

I believe tightwad is perfectly capable of including a timer feature which reverts back to OEM functioning after a period of time and/or idiot lights for those easily distracted or forgetful types.

I'm sure several options from simple manual off override to more complex manual off and on override options, even as coderighter has done with a speed based revert-to-OEM function..

The facts are facts.

The fan airflow hampers natural flow at speeds above 25 km/h. City traffic will see your VTEC and 5th gen VFRs overheating and the fan putting the already delicate charging system and wiring harness under unnecessary extra load. Then when finally out on highways or mountain roads, the fan is on and the temp doesn't drop and the fan's motor suffers as does the bike's.

VTECs fry stators like marshmallows at summer camp. This is heat related as demonstrated in another thread around here somewhere. Also related to shoddy wiring... All the more reason to avoid the fan running longer than it should and in hot humid climates it does.. A foolproof manual override is the ticket.

I got the powerlet USB adaptor a few weeks ago and have made good use of it since. Keeps the smartphone charged up really well.

Surprisingly it came apart on me. I wrote to Powerlet and they're sending me a new one free of charge and exempting me from having to send the Humpty one back as shipping costs from Spain would be an even greater loss for them.

Excellent customer service.

Jealousy is an understatement!!!