Auspanglish

Cheers Bro!! I'll pass the tip on, he's not of a grand stature you might say, so the softer spring may not be a problem... unless there's also a big difference in the weight of the bike... a VFR750 from 1990 should weigh quite a bit less than the 5th and 6th gens...

Thanks Rosso, so the bearings on the 90 to 93 models aren't built into the shock lower mount but must be on the lower wishbone or whatever the lower fixation point is on the bike... hmmmm. Wonder what a solution for that would be...

Guys, look at the pics. Belt might not clear the swingarm under tension.

The Buell sprocket (3rd photo) seems to come real close to the swingarm!! So I'm not sure if you've placed the custom-made one to check, but with 4 more teeth it must be getting close to touching... unless the photo is deceiving...

Woooah BLS, you are a man on a mission. Such a shame, you were real close. Emmm, but isn't that (realtively) a lot of dough to be throwing around wantonly??

Now you've gone and done it, one can cheat and use your figures to analyse. Just thinking aloud here, but... by adding 4 teeth you've shortened the distance between centres by 13 mm. So, that roughly translates to shortening the distance 'tween centres by 3.25 mm per tooth. In hindsight we now know you needed to shorten that by at least 3 mm more, to be within the 20 mm tolerance you mention (although I take it the more the better), so in rough theory you need one more tooth. Hmmmm

If we suppose that the ratio between the increase in radius and the number of teeth is constant or a direct relationship, (something tells me it isn't quite, because of the angular math due to the belt), but supposing it were, you would only need one (1) more tooth, or a 77-T sprocket. But like I said, that's too rough so, one could overshoot to be sure and increase it to two (2) more teeth. So that would be a 78-T sprocket instead. In terms of reducing that distance, more teeth is better, buuuuut..... not so for your gearing...

I don't know in real terms how that would affect the power output at the wheel, (compared to stock) that is beyond me... but you've already gone up 4 teeth on the original idea of the Buell rear sprocket which, if you chose the Buell one for a reason... means you're getting well away from that reasoning if you go up a whole 6 teeth...

OK, computing some more math into it to double check things, I'm fairly certain that you would need just 2 more teeth. It comes down to the error margin....

If I calculate the circumference (and thus the radius) of the sprocket based on the distance between teeth of 0.433 (this is rough math) I get a discrepancy of 1.8 mm from your 13 mm difference between centres (prolly due to the angular math the belt supposes, which I did not apply). In other words only 11.2 mm, which would imply 2.8 mm per tooth. which as I said is not quite enough, so you factor in good old down on the farm common sense and go up 2 Teeth!!!

:idea3: :goofy:

Got a money back guarantee on that sprocket??? :goofy: :goofy:

Any math graduates or professors confirm??? I know my calculations are missing a couple of minor factors but I reckon they're negligible enough... jeez, if you're going to cut out your spokes by eye!!! :goofy: :goofy:

Then again, HS' idea might save you money and it's such a small difference it just might work... talk to Toro1... he rigged up a tensioner on his blower. I reckon it'll be cheaper, but you've also got to calculate the specs for fabbing that and find a suitable mounting point and means... unless Toro1's fits already (that would be too much to ask) ... maybe one (1) more tooth AND a tensioner... to save face on the power at the wheel issue...

Do I make sense??

Good luck, we're all anxious to see it work :goofy: :goofy: :goofy:

(I'm gunna regret posting this...)

Lucky bugger having all that work done on your bike for you!!!

Just a quick question: what's the story with those bar risers?? They look like a major rise up, but seems like it defeats the purpose if you're dropping the trees so far down the fork-tubes. Can you explain what's going on there? How do you compensate up back?

Thanks 4 the info JZH.

I have brushed over Veefercanuck's thread, and one of zRoyz' threads as well... I want to have it all clear as a whistle in my head before I go about attempting the mod because once installed, there's no manual to turn to...

I can answer the brakes question.

I can answer some of your questions Auspañol.

Thanks guys. I had forgotten about the difference in offset. So I was thinking... if the forks are shorter, I'm effectively lowering the front end and creating less rake (relatively speaking) and less trail, so why would I want to raise the rear, as it would just exacerbate this even more, and while you could probably handle the change if the offset were the same, jacking up the rear would just make her impossible to handle... :rolleyes: :beer:

Of course it all makes sense now you've reminded me!! The difference in offset outweighs the effect on rake/trail caused merely by the difference in height, so much so that it has the opposite effect... increasing trail!!

No worries!! I actually like the idea of raising the rear a little, I'm 6'4" and could handle more cornering clearance as well...

I reckon I'll go with braided lines, they're not all that exy and I've had trouble with the rear lines expanding under heat on the track!! NOT FUN TO HAVE TO PUMP THE PEDAL TO GET REAR BRAKES HAPPENING ON APPROACHING CORNERS, especially when you're on the track, as you tend to push your limits more there!! Of course I came right on into the pits to let her cool down!!!

I'm collecting info and knowledge on this mod as my VTECker decided to argue with a guardrail, and I reckon it's the perfect opportunity to improve on what is a great base, the VFR!!! Waiting on insurance payout and then must locate bits and pieces, second hand hopefully... if I do decide to Fankenstein her, I may as well go all the way and rip out the Cat guts, deflapperate her and such... it's going to be a long project...

Maybe I should open a thread and collate all the data there as a How-to??? But I mean a proper how-to, photos, videos, data, prices, explanations, vamos, an Idiot's Guide...

Great stuff. I'm always playing with the suspension settings and never seem to get them quite right. Now that I've front ended the VTECker, I am seriously considering this mod. I imagine the SP1 parts and such come cheaper second hand due to their being more ubiquitous right? Anyone?

My main doubts are these two points:

14. Braided Brake Lines Rear (had made 1200mm long x2)

15. Custom Spacer 4mm thick to sit between Lower Triple Clamp & Lower Head Bearing (any eng shop can make it on a lathe)

Perhaps there are aftermarket braided lines long enough not to have to have them made?

What did you have your spacer made out of? What are all its dimensions?

How much height do I loose up front?

It seems you raised the rear as well, while having already lost height up front with the fork swap, thus obtaining an even more radical rake than before. Most people would be inclined to try to do the opposite, would they not? Unfortunately, if I lower the rear, the whole bike is then lower to the ground right? Perhaps without touching the rear I'd just end up with a slightly sportier feel to the cornering right?

Oh yeah, must go look up what the story was with a XX Blackbird rear shock in terms of altering height...

How did you address the de-linking of the CBS braking system up front? Two lines from the master, or 1 into 2, or 1 line: Master to RH calliper to LH calliper????

If you have time to answer would be much appreciated.

I'd love for my '03 to have one like my '98 does, very similar to what you've come up with here.

Of course, I take the lazy-buggar's approach and use a marine grade padlock (even has a little drain hole off to one side from the key entry), which "will not rust under any circumstances"!! Two weeks in the Pyrenees and the rainy autumn weather here have come and gone and it is none the worse for wear!!

I just run it thru the hole provided for the luggage racks, where, before I realized those holes were for said purpose, thought perhaps Honda had been going to incorporate such a device but hadn't got a round tuit.

Yeah, the aesthetically concerned will be right in thinking that it is slowly wearing away that nice anodized finish, but... WHO CARES?? (It's just a little spot). Like HS says, (and it's no HS), I'm too busy getting the most outta her to worry about appearances overmuch.

Hola Tightwad:

I know you said it was a moot point, but in the name of thoroughness and curiosity, I went ahead and tested the R/R's feedback lead on my 2003 European Non-ABS VFR. If I've done it correctly then it's definitely hot. Funnily, I noticed that the said B/W wire is really W/B (more white than black hehehe). Also strangely enough, this wire is not W/B over it's entire trajectory. The wire leaving the R/R up to the connector is solid black. Only once it leaves the connector and heads off to wherever it goes, is it actually white and black. This helped me decide which one to expect a live reading from, as the black one gave no reading. The W/B one did give a reading as you can see in the photos. Again, if I'm doing it right, it's definitely live.

The photos show the red "probe" from my multimeter, sticking onto the female slot of the connector correspondng to the W/B wire. What they don't show is me grounding the negative probe to various parts of the frame (just to be sure). Let me know if I'm doing something wrong, or if it's the wire between R/R and male half of the connector that should give a reading (doubt that for some reason).

I set the multimeter to Voltage D/C. As apparently that's one of the R/R's jobs, converting the A/C from the stator, to D/C which is valid for the battery.

This is the connector here. There are three plastic hoodies with connectors inside.

Under the plastic hoody for the R/R connector there was another connector.

Just so you can see the wire is black from R/R to male connector

Stubborn f&%$er to separate

So good to hear you got to do the install and final design for the 98-99 model. How did the test run home for the generous owner go? Any feedback from him/her? Should I wait for Lobster's run-down before I order the whole kit and kaboodle (1 x VFRness + Fuse box and 1 x Blue-connector fix for my 03 and 1 x VFRness and 1 x Fuse box for my 98er).

Anything else I might need? I figure if you distrust crimping a wire to another, you could always buttonhole and solder, right? Might give more reliable results with the vibrations the V4 produces, not to mention potholes etc.

I don't have a garage, let alone a garage door, let even more alone an automated one!! :S:S:S

Following you loud and clear. I am very interested in doing the mods, the materials are cheap, and if you do it yourself the manhours are too!! I've been reading up on the thread 747Fixer wrote up (based on an older thread) for the same mod to the 6th gens. I can follow most of what he describes although you've answered my main doubt on his way of describing the 2 point socket which fits to the three-connector-stemed bulb issue. I couldn't tell whether he was saying the bulb had three and the socket two, or the bulb two and the socket three but now I have it down thanks to you!! You must have read my mind as I didn't mention that!!! :thumbsup:

I'm also glad you've confirmed most of my postulated basic understandings of diodes and such (although in more precise detail). Good to know I CAN get a grasp of it all if I set my mind to it. I also imagine you're right and the fact our Euromodels only have one side lit up is not via use of a diode on our Euromodels but is simply not connected by using a two connection socket. Cool!!

I'm keen to give it a go, I guess I'll need an ampmeter or such as well. Great explanation of the fuse box set up as well, running it off a permanent (when bike is running) secondary power source. Slick!! I reckon I can follow HS's map for the lights, it's the nitty gritty details of how and what to avoid "hands on" that would come in handy. The required tools etc. as well. I would need a rundown and perhaps a diagram for the fuse box and powerplug set up though. Sounds like a lot of work on your behalf, feel a little squeemish accepting your offer. Would be much obliged. Is this info alread somewhere on VFRD to save you precious time? It goes without saying that there is no ruch, I respect the effort involved from you, please don't let it retract from other more important stuff you might have on your plate!! I imagine it could all be done in a one-day session if I get all that can be prepared set up before actually placing it all on the bike.

Eternally indebted to you!!

Thanks Chris, you've cleared up splicing for me. I was thinking the only way you can influence the direction of flow would be with a diode but didn't want to make any assumptions. What exactly do relays do and how?

Also, if I understand rightly, the higher the number (gauge) the less current (or is it voltage) it will tolerate, right? That is, it will burn out easier? I know voltage and current are different things, I know that it's not the voltage (precisely) that kills you if eletrocuted, but the current, the rate of flow right? (So long as there's a certain amount of voltage I suppose.) So I imagine it's current that will burn out a wire.

As far as the wiring on my bike, a '98 VFR from the UK, I imagine the only difference is they've omitted the supply for low beam to one of the bulbs, (the left one in my case). That is, they haven't run the wire (Blue/Black) you can see in the middle of the three which reach the top of the two bulbs in HS' diagram down to the lower bulb. Right? Or maybe they dioded it!!! I also imagine and hope and pray that the wiring's colour scheme is the same!!!

The manual I have I downloaded off this site which is the Honda Service Manual, maybe the Hayne's would shed some light on the UK issue. Anyway, I would really like to get my mitts into some mods on this bike. Would like to have a powerplug for charging stuff up, like GPS and such, don't need grip warmers here, and the fuse box under the seat sounds good. If only I had step by step, illustrated instructions for doing them all at the same time in order to make the most of having the tank up and the necessary bits and pieces off the bike, thus saving time etc.

Staying on the lower voltage side of the relay means??? Let me make a stab at it, this would be close to the handlebar switch, as I recall reading that it's lower there for stretching out the longevity of the switch, right? On the wire leading to the switch from the relay? Hmmmm, I dig the third relay HS installed, if that makes the system more fail-safe.

I'll see what I can find out about differences in UK wiring and get back to you, thanks a million!!! :thumbsup:

Great stuff!! As you probably all know, my silver rocket is from the UK and has a one-sided low beam which doesn't light much up, although the height at which the headlights sit has them shining right in the rear window of most cars so I'm sure they're well aware of my presence. Maybe it's due to my biking history but I find it difficult to mistake twin headlights on a bike with a car far off in the distance!!! :blink:

Anyway, (my) visibility on dark roads would obviously be an improvement if I could A) have both sides running on low beam and B) B ) optional switch up to High and Low beams when running High beam. So, I've been staring at your diagram Hispanic, and I've finally got my head around which way things flow and such (electrics has been a phobia of mine). What I would love is some MORE inspirational and instructional photos (with arrows pointing to bits etc.), as well as some MORE descriptions of the process. ¡¡¡Por favorcito!!! For example, when you say "splice" is this just twisting the wires together or is there a special connector available? Does the current flow where it has to flow, or is there a particular method to this join to make that happen. (I'm green I know it). Does the relay need a special housing? If so, does it come with that? I'm really keen to do A and B. Perhaps I could even have one-sided and two-sided lo-beam circuitry as well!!

Any other tips to keep in mind if I'm going to do this?? Type of wire, specifiactions for the bits and pieces!! Judging by your nick, you would speak Spanish, the Spanish terms would come in handy as I live in Spain!!

Am I asking too much?? :unsure: I think I am!! I need an idiot's guide to this mod as when it comes to electronics, my battery's flat!!