BrianF

I like it! If only it sounded good...

:+1: on what others have said, but I find that I have to drag the rear brake a little bit on the DCT. With the electronic throttle and its odd responses, things can get weird at very slight throttle openings when the clutch doesn't know when to engage or let go. I spent quite a bit of time practicing in an empty parking lot. Full-lock is especially tough to the right, when your wrist is right down by the tank. As many others have said, turn your head and look where you want to go. Keep your head up as well. But more than anything: practice practice practice. Unlike high-speed braking when a deer jumps in front of you mid-corner, this is one you can practice for hours until you feel comfortable, then go take a course to practice in front of your peers. Comfort = confidence. Go get 'em.

God it sounds good! Can't wait for mine to arrive.

Just out of curiosity, what's he telling you for a ship date? They seem to be pretty busy lately...

"+ or - 9 May." I've heard from others that David is conservative about shipping dates and is often on the early side. On a side note, please let me know if there are any tricks to installation. The pictures look pretty easy.

Just ordered mine last night. Got the matte. Can't wait to hear the sound in person.

Nicely done! Glad you got a chance to ride both first. Wish I had been able to do that. I installed my Givi V35's with the SW Motech quick-release racks yesterday. Going for a test ride with them in about, well, now. Enjoy your new ride!

Hey Manny, I went through the same process you did, and I happen to be 28. Looked at the ZX, ST, C14, Multistrada etc etc. I paid 11k for the DCT before taxes etc. Looking back, I probably should've just bought the standard shift, but I knew that if I did, I'd always regret not having the DCT. The "paddle" shifiting is seriously slick, and I love it. I have used the automatic shifting exactly once, and I hate it. I use the buttons every time. I don't think it's worth the extra $1000 it cost me though. My personal thought in your situation would obviously be to ride both if you can, but if you only have to pay an extra $400 for the standard shift (assuming it's new), go with the standard, get some bags and Z-bomb, and enjoy. You won't regret it either way. Good luck.

not sure about the quality of that particular CF cover, but $143 will buy you a lot of 3M tankslapper film. When you scuff up one set, rip it off, and toss on a new one. Plus it covers the sides as well. Just my $.02.

Thanks everyone. Change went off without a hitch.

Sorry to bother everyone with a simple question, but I've searched the site and the web to no avail. What's the torque spec for the bolts that hold on the clutch oil filter cover on the DCT? I have the service manual for the standard clutch and it doesn't say. Thanks.

Hey grandall, though late to this thread I want to add one thing: really consider a custom foam upgrade from Sargent. I'm 6'1, was rather miserable on the bike for the first 600 miles, and the new seat cured all that ailed me. I decided not to get heli bars and I sit deeper in the saddle for less buffeting. The flat profile is a bonus in that I slide forward less and the material is quite grippy. It's pricey ($375 or so), but it's a million times better in my opinion. Mandatory pic:

Mine was replaced under warranty through East Bay Motorsports in Hayward, CA. Their floor model also had the same thing done, both with 0 miles. Take that Honda a****** "customer service" guy. Makes me wonder why I bought another Honda product. Shoulda learned from the 800.

The saga continues: went to the dealer today to swap out the panels and whaddya know!...the floor model's was cracked as well. That bike has been out of the crate for two days. The sales manager is doing a warranty claim on both, and I told him about the problems mentioned on vfrd and gave him the link. Hopefully he'll raise a stink up the Honda chain of command.

Picked up my new DCT from the dealer last week, washed it and noticed the crack. 0 miles. Hadn't seen this thread previously, but my dealer is swapping it out for the panel on a floor model at no cost.

Thanks a bunch I just finished taking em off using the above info. :idea3:

Some quick background: On a trip this past summer, some ______(insert colorful descriptor), knocked/pushed/whatever my '03 over on its right side while I was in a restaurant at night. Didn't see it happen, but shortly after a customer came in and asked if I was the owner of the "fancy silver motorsickle" outside that was laying "like a dead horse." :o Ran outside and picked it up ASAP. :rolleyes: After much anger and cursing, I finished my now-cold dinner and continued the trip with just cosmetic damage. Now, however, it's time to sand and paint the bag lid. The bags would be awkward at best to paint as a whole, so I'm trying to remove the lids, but I don't see how. There's a small rod that runs through the three cylindrical pivot points (2 lid, 1 base), but it only comes out about 1/4" before it gets stuck. WD40 has done nothing. Any ideas on what to do? Or should I just take them to a paint shop and let them solve the puzzle and do the spraying? Do they even come off? Thanks.