Chev

What are you going to make the main frame members out of? 4130 or 4140? And seeing as how I'm a civil engineer and we build things out of concrete, asphalt paving, and lots of dirt, what exactly is the difference between 4130 & 4140?

Are you having a hard time finding the correct metal? I've been ordering a lot from an outfit called "On Line Metals" (I think). They have just about every metal in any size there is. Best thing is they will sell in quantities as small as 12" long. There is nothing I hate worse than only needing 6" of a certain size tube for one of my projects and some place like MSC only has it in 6 ft quantities.

Sometimes it boils down to what grade is commonly available in the size/shape you need. In this case, 4130 is nomally what you can get in thin-walled tubing. 4140 is supplied in bar stock for machining use. Because of the lower carbon carbon the 4130 is not as strong but is also more ductile (less brittle) than 4140.

Try checking for a Metal Supermarkets in your area. I love that place!

Both are hard to weld properly. Make sure the proper welding rod is used as well as a proper pre-heat and post weld heat.

I wonder,

Do you plan on going around a 15 ft radius turn at 35 mph or 75....... the forces between the two are drastically different.

Maybe somewhere in between?

15ft? that's a pretty tight turn to be doing at 35mph? but understand what you mean I think! Can you analyze an assembly of parts with solidworks?

I can analyze assemblies.

I wonder,

Do you plan on going around a 15 ft radius turn at 35 mph or 75....... the forces between the two are drastically different.

Maybe somewhere in between?

Rule of thumb........... overload the model and see what breaks. :cool:

I'm looking forward to playing with another type of problem. :blink:

I use Solid Works about every day. Well, ok my drafters do. I mainly use it for stress analysis.

Send me your part file, detailed material/heat treat specs, and some potential loads and I will do some analysis for you. I can probably do some fatigue analysis if I take the time to learn that part. :cool:

Looks good Seb.

You may not like the sprocket black there, but you are more than welcome to come clean the sprocket on my 1R sometime. I am sure you will do it once.

BTW........ are you going to ride this thing? It may a bit too clean for that. :cool:

hmm,

let's see. I guarantee that they will wear. If you believe that they will not wear........... err nevermind.

Ti is so hard that it will act like a grinder on the chain surface and wear the chain a bit faster. So you put a new chain on when the chain wears out and after a few chains, the sprockets are a bit worn and wear out the chains faster and faster, yet the sprockets are not "worn."

Sorry, but sprockets are cheap, chains are expensive. I would not consider making an expensive part wear faster to save the cheaper part.

I don't have a dog in this fight (4gen); however, the "V" word is beginning to form on the tip of my tongue but...... I haven't said it!

Knowing what little I know about the US patent office, just that alone could take some serious time. Although, I know hearing that would probably rest the worried minds.

I'm very patient in my interest, since I have 147 other projects moneypits to tackle before I think about hoping for a ToroCharger for my 6th gen.

I am truely amazed at the temperatures that you are all seeing. But, I have yet to see the highway, at rushhour, in the scortching heat. Hell, it's not even 80 here yet. :beer:

So, just out of curiosity, what is the next step? Bigger radiators? thermo switch that turns the fan on sooner? Addition of a second fan on the right radiator? or a manual fan on/off switch?

Enquiring minds want to know....

I would suggest a fan on the right side. In fact I would go so far as to suggest a computer fan on the right side. They are small, lightweight and move a good amount of air. I would wire in a manual switch controled but keep it controlled by the other fan. In the heat of the summer, turn the switch on, and when the temps drop back to liveable, turn it off.

I hear that 6th gen rads are bigger, but you are looking at a big expense there as well as some possible machine work. Just move the air past the heat exchangers faster. :goofy:

Hard reset: First turn the unit OFF, then HOLD your thumb on the furthest bottom right hand corner of the screen, push as far into the corner as you can on the screen itself. While holding your thumb/finger on the screen press and hold the POWER ON button until you see the ZUMO splash screen, once the splash screen is up you can release the power, but continue to hold your thumb in the right corner of the screen for another 5 - 10 seconds, you should see a window that pops up and asks "Do you really want to erase all user data?", make sure to answer YES to this window

This is interesting. No one at Garmin mentioned that. I tried it and it didn't work either.

I've thought about it, and I have decided that Garmin needs to get my data back. It is their obligation to me at this point. I will publicaly thrash Garmin for a long time if they do not.

I cannot believe that they would allow such poor quality control on these units. I could understand if this was a $100 or even a $250 dollar unit, but this is the flagship. It is simple production control. Keep quality highest on the most expensive/lower output units. There is no excuse for low quality control here, absolutely none.

I even heard one of the first people tell me that something must have vibrated loose....... understandable, except that they advertise this as vibration resistant/proof. I ended up hanging up on that guy when he sarcastically told me he wasn't allowed to hand deliver a unit to my vacation location.

Speaking of which, call Garmin customer support sometime. 30-35 minute wait is standard, and they do not have a separate option for Zumo. So you wait in line behind all the grocery getting units not stranded on the side of the the road a thousand miles from a computer or home, as the hold music switches to 'get online and there is no waiting." That's just insulting if you are at a Burger King asking them if you can use a plug-in to try the wall charger anyway.

Ohh and the guy I spoke to yesterday told me he would call me back in 30 minutes while I looked for my paperwork (I did just move and that was a challenge), but he never called me back. I called his direct line and left a voicemail. If he doesn't call by noon, I may just storm into Garmin HQ and show them my level of irritation personally.

.......... They replaced it free, and said they had that problem with some units.

My exact point here. They know they have a quality issue on thier top of the line units and they still sell them as is? No no no. There is no excuse for that.

I finally got in touch with someone from Garmin, he seems nice, but I am screwed for my trip data. I have over 4,200 miles of trip on there from before the crash that I will never see again.

My once in a lifetime trip was supposed to have trip and route data to prove where I had been, maybe even go back to some of the best places. I should have bought a Tom Tom

I just got back from my 4 week trip and I'd have to say.

Don't bother spending your money on a Zumo, or any other Garmin Product!!!

Mine failed on me. I tried everything.

-remove from the bike cradle.

-reset

-plug into the wall

-remove the battery

-reset while trying all of these things

The damn thing will not turn on.

So, I called Garmin. I sat on hold for over a half an hour wasting my cell time. When I told the first person what had happened, they said hold on one sec. Then they hung up on me.

I called back several hours later and only had to waste 10 minutes of my cell time on hold to get the response "yep it sounds broken, you'll have to send it in for repair/replacement."

Well fuck Garmin!!! I was in Indiana and had just learned to rely on the damn thing when it failed on me. Was I supposed to put my road trip on hold? Nope, I had to lug around a dead peice of gear because Garmin makes a shit product.

If you buy the 550 and you should, don't do a me and cheap out on the 450, which on top of bluetooth does not come with all the car mounts a $120 package like the 550 does.

In the box you get the parts all the you need to connect it to your tank, other than some longer bolts

I've already found the pleasure in the handsfree bluetooth mount for car use. For some reason my 550 came with the brake clamp mount. Thanks for that part number. I ordered from Ram-Mounts.com that day.

You need the 231 for a 5/6th gen ............Cyclegadgets has them. But not sure for your bike ...........measure the bolt pattern width.

The 5.25 is the longest arm and my ARM of choice for the Tank Mount...............especially if you have a tank bag!

Thanks Bonus. Check my garage. My touring steed is a 6th gen. :biggrin: I might try and get this thing mounted on my 1KR, after...... I do a bunch of other stuff. When I do, I'll post up my fitment findings.

Could someone please verify the mount I need to get my Zumo mounted on my tank?

Do I need the RAM-B-238? Linky

Also, is the medium arm the 5.25' arm?

Thanks

Geeze all that stuff for 4 days?

All you need, sorry Dutchy, is

4 t-shirts.

5 pair socks

some tools

rasins

I-Pod

My pic here is after being on the road for a week and planning on being on the road for another week, ~1500 miles from home.

That's a big tank bag full of snacks, camelback, and electronics. Everything was packed in ziplock for that trip. Rain covers work ok. Zip-Loc keeps your stuff dry and lets you squeeze air out to save space.

Sounds like you may have a winner. Let us know if you experiance in traffic is similar.

For the next person with my question. I found the Givi part number M5 in another thread and ordered the plate from twisted throttle.com

Here

Yea, I wanted to dig this thread up since it is on topic with my question.

What do I need to mount a top box to one of Ken's mounts? I'm not dead set on an OEM top box, but having them all match would be cool.

So let's look for two types of replies....

If I go OEM what part number plate(s) do I need to mount the box to rack without modifying anything?

If I grab a universal GIVI what do I need to mount this thing?

Thanks

Zack

This is awesome!!!!!

I don't think I could say I would have done more or less. You've got a nice scheme there.

I do wonder what something like this woud look like on an asphalt......... :beer:

It's all done now, and it looks completely amazing in person. I won't steal George's thunder, though. Hurry up and post some pics, man!!

Yea, I'm really anxious to see how this turned out.

I actually have a WP shock on my VF, for what it's worth :P

I had one on my VF700 as well........ there should have been a thread on that install............ somewhere.

I liked it, and the service I got was absolutely top notch.

Looks great Chris.

I love your method, less money on tools = more money for mods. :thumbsup:

Speaking of bolts...... I bought a box of VF1000R engine bolts off ebay earlier this year. Let me know if you need somethiing. :thumbsup:

OH, I see now. Now that I ran poor old SA3713 (Jim, big thanks) all over the place with trades and parts, you volunteer parts. Sure send me all the engine mounting bolts, from the crossbolt to all 3 side bolts (each side).

BTW, since you volunteered. Have any idea how to plumb the oil cooler up. There are cast in holes waiting to be tapped, but is that all I need to do? Which is high side?

I checked my box this weekend Larry, and no mounting bolts. All I have are case covers and inward.

I couldn't tell you about the oil cooler, I didn't think we had one at all on the 1000R. Or are wanting supplimental cooling?

Speaking of bolts...... I bought a box of VF1000R engine bolts off ebay earlier this year. Let me know if you need somethiing. :thumbsup:

Ohh you know I'm interested in this.... very cool. :blink:

Have you seen the 1KR with the sweet exhaust on EBay right now?

I bet if someone wanted a nice header for a 1KR they might buy it at the stupid low price and sell it with a factory exhaust for the same amount.