CornerCarver

Well, I can give you a definite maybe for input.

I am thinking of sending a spare 5G frame to Italy to ask them to modify the triples for me. I may have to purchase a run of them to get them made this way but we would know for sure the yare the factory offset and would be perfect for 54/50 USD forks.

I have the triples in the spare frame right now but don't like the way I had to hack the bottom to clear the frame and stops....

What does a decent set of used Honda triples for a USD conversion go for now?

I don't know, I am in Toronto for a couple of days.

Would it help if I sent a 5G eccentric/hub or a 5G swingarm?

Or do I need to get a Triumph donor axle for machining?

I already have a 848 axle/wheel...waiting to source additional parts like the cone and nut until I know what I need.

Yoshi, do you need a confirmed second for axle conversion to get the machine shop off of dead center on any work that remains?

Shot me a pm if so and I will post some money to your account for the conversion parts. I have to do this in the next month while I am back on the ZX14 fork conversion...

WOW....I have been traveling all month for work and just stumbled across this thread...holy crap.

What a rare RC30 you have, I didn't notice the mods to the seat/tank intersect that provide room for the attachments required to remove every fastener and wire on the bike.

Those Carrillo Ti I-beam rods are even more beautiful than the stock Honda Ti rods if that is possible.

Awesome thread, amazing bike, great to see it being used as intended.

Welcome Aboard. Check you calendar to see if you can make it to North Carolina in late May and if not I will gladly give of my time to show your bike around and answer any questions that others may have of your unique and important piece of Honda Racing History.

Keith

Very FotoDadi that they came through!

I am sure your mate will take the '10 off your hands now after seeing the new engine, no problem.

I didn't notice any change in performance, but what I do like is that I won't have to change them (iridiums) again for a long time. What PIA that job is.

Amen. I thought it was bad on the 90...98 was PIA+

VFRs are an absolute cakewalk compared to a ZX-10R. On that bike, you have to remove both seats, 2/3s of the tail cowling, both side fairings, the inner fairing panels, the entire airbox assembly & ram air tubes, the PAIR system, the coolant overflow tank, and actual portions of the frame (not to mention moving the tank and radiator) just to gain access to them. On a 5th-gen you need to lift the tank and unbolt the oil cooler -- consider us very lucky.

BTW, I use NGK Iridiums in all of my supercharged applications; they're great plugs.

I know cars are different but I tried iridium plugs in my supercharged M3 and it does not like them...Toro, does the forced induction factor in to plug gap at all? I have since been using NGK BKR6E standard copper plugs in this car and changing them every other oil change.

I have Iridium NGKs in my other vehicles including bikes and cars.

I just played with it to recreate a route I took home from Franklin, NC on Saturday and then tried to build a loop ride that we normally take on VFR meets.

A few observations:

1. after you exceed 4 or 5 via points the interface gets really clunky, I had to wait an incredibly long time for the program to digest what was being asked of it.

2. if you know your start point and end point in a generic sense (as your earlier example - London to Glasgow IIRC) then later add a specific address to either end of your already created route, it seems to play havoc with the program as well. For example I put in Franklin, NC to Peachtree City, GA and later - once I saw map took me to city center of PTC - I plugged in the actual address of the termination point it became unwieldy. It did not want me to delete the former termination point, once it finished throwing it little fit and allowed the termination to be deleted and eh last way point to be destination it resized the map up and down 12-15 times...like it was mocking me with bug eyes. lol

3. I also tried to edit to original destination by placing the cursor in the destination text box and typing the address in front of the destination city. it did not appreciate this either.

4. In the middle my route and adding the 11 or so via points to get me routed through my preferred area, when the interface became nonresponsive, I clicked on the "mapping" tab at the top thinking that perhaps there were some settings here that I could adjust and make the map more responsive. I bet you are already laughing because that just erased 20 minutes of work to get to the point where I had invested enough time to make the user interface clunky. I see now that the only settings per se are avoid highways - avoid tolls - miles - km below the route building screen in plain view and you may not want to clutter your main screen but perhaps a redundant tab with settings that would not erase your work but just bring open a drop down window or a quick menu box that allows you to return to route building without erasing all of your efforts would be handy.

5. How do you build a loop? Say you are meeting with group of riders for a week and want to build several loops out and back with a common start and stop point for each route. I tried but it seems to select one of my via points when building such a route as either the start point or the destination...what did do wrong here?

- Arrows meant to reorder the way points did not work for me.

Yeah, you're by no means the first person that's mentioned this one, they're click and drag'able as opposed to just click - we've tried a few different arrows / icons here but still haven't quite cracked the right one yet. Thanks for pointing it out, we need a fix on this one. Out of curiosity, what sort of thing would you think 'I can drag that' if you saw it?

I.e.

L (MO-94) W => 34 miles

R (MO-D) N => 5 miles

It's not fancy, but it is functional and clear for quick glances while riding... if you could export or print something like that you would have something unique... and I would be a very happy camper!

Ah, yes - I can see where you're going with that - that's a really nice, clean and simple way of marking out a route and, I have to admit, a LOT easier to follow at a glance than a big full on list. Excellent idea, and noted - thank you!

On point number 1, when I see the cursor with 4 arrows pointing away from each other I think I can drag that.

On the printout for directions, I like that but will there be any text to speech options for those connected via blue tooth.

I have been working on (what I feel) are some patentable ideas for motorcycle specific routing but have yet to find anyone at Garmin that cares enough to bump me up to someone who can talk about specifics. They just say leave it in your comments and we will look at it eventually.

I am now doubting that anyone at Garmin rides for pleasure, perhaps they commute on motorcycles (in the summer in Kansas City - not the fall, winter or spring?) but I feel that the concept of going out to ride a sporting motorcycle for the fun of riding a sporting motorcycle is a foreign concept to them.

I will play with some route layouts and provide more useful feedback in the coming weeks.

Jim, tough luck on the smashed plastic.

We have had a bit of that here in this garage during the past year as well.

I am not sure what nice cycles body work you are talking about but the general consensus on the Chinese knockoff plastics is that it is very difficult to form abs plastic to the exact same size and shape as factory body work without the factory molds.

So while the ingenuity of those knocking it off is impressive the fit (and thickness of plastic/quality of paint) leaves a little to be desired. If you are color matching an existing fuel tank or other stock parts, some colors are reported to be slightly off as well.

I actually chalk some of the difficulty in mounting aftermarket plastics to our VFRs to the fact that in the drop that caused you to need to replace your stock plastic, you quite probably bent more than one of your mounting brackets.

Still, if it were mine and I were planning on keeping the bike for more than another 3-4 weeks I would check out Mason City Honda in Mason City Iowa and ask for Keith, the sales manager. he gives VFRD members a pretty good discount (some items as much 20% below the already discounted price on their website).

And don't forget to order a couple of new mounting brackets for the side that got smashed, it'll make the new plastics go back on much easier.

Here is a link to the parts drawing, looks like the numbers you posted are correct. http://www.masoncityhonda.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=2526107&category=Motorcycles&make=Honda&year=2002&fveh=132297

And they are complete with holes for the fasteners but no fasteners are included.

@Cornercarver, Pff bad engine or valve my ass...that engine is rock solid

That engine has been rocked alright...

It looks like a bad engine or valve.

all of the smoke is actually due to MiniCarver (being the brokeazz student that he is) grabbing a 5 gal petrol can in the garage that had diesel fuel in it for the parts washer...hahahahahaha

he only put about 1/2 gallon and we added real gas to it but it will burn off soon.

@Kaldek, the info definitely helped and now we will probably ad the PCIII from my 01 5th G and see if we can get a decent result, then scrap it all and go with megasquirt and build a custom map for ignition and fuel.

I am planning an 848 rear rotor and caliper to go with the 848 rear wheel....

yeah, just the rim width.

If he is already running a 180 and has had a 190 mounted then proceed as planned.

you mean aside from it being 1/2" too wide?

search at the auto parts store for a 3 wire Denso coil on plug that is the same height as the 5th G plug wire came up short (lol) and long - even if not as long as the 6G COP.

I think we are going to go with a 2009 Honda Odyssey COP and add an extra gasket to reduce the insertion length. This coil is about 3 mm too long to be perfect.

We also found a Civic COP that was about 3mm too short but also found that Honda had changed the plug style of the 3 wires on this coil.

May try to search some Toyota products as they use Denso coils as well.

You know the rule about no pics = ?????

Yes...we will post the next run, perhaps a video since Rice had gutted the 6G exhaust before we bought the box of bike parts from him....sounds really good, not as annoying as I thought it would.

ok, we have the 5thG engine in 6th G frame running. Everything except the engine is 6th G.

We think we may have a solution to the COP height. Will let you know when we return from autozone....

And that is my point, when was the last time you ran the tire manufacturers recommended pressure on the street? These aren't the bias ply tires of two decades ago.

If it has been more than a the last two or three tire advancements then you should run the correct air pressure on the street and tell us what you find. What ill handling issue are you correcting by dropping your pressures from the tire engineers recommended pressure?

What test data can you provide that shows you have more grip on the street by lowering your tire pressures below the design engineers?

We old dogs with a few decades of riding under our belt will probably just agree to disagree but I don't want some new riders on here thinking that your two decade long riding with your tires below the design specification for air pressure is empirical data that must be followed or they will blow up or slide off the road.

LMAO. Yeah running 34/36 and your tire will delaminate, explode, and slide off the road!!!! Dumbest shit I've read on here yet.

I posted what I run. You can hand down absolutes, myself, I don't deal with them so you'll have to pardon the demeanor.

You must have missed the parts of my post where I spoke to several tire mfr's about hard twisty riding and pressures. 2 different reps recommended 34/36. 36/42 is the max rating, hell it's printed on my bike. It's not rocket science that when you drop a few psi you get more contact patch.

I run even lower pressures at the track (32/32) and I've never had a tire explode or cause me to take a trip in the litter. It sounds like you don't know much about PSI or grip.

What you should do is not blow a gasket when someone doesn't agree with you. Stock pressure for all is nonsense. I ran stock pressure on both of my bikes when new, and one of them was bought this year. That shit didn't last long either.

I apologize for being dismissive with my reading comprehension remark but you are arguing that I am handing down absolutes and that you don't deal in them while simultaneously telling others with less experience than you that they should never run the tire manufacturers pressure unless they are slabbing it or fully loaded...my bolded statement was either glossed over by you as you appear to be ignoring anyone who does not agree with your take or you missed the meaning.

What my bolded statement means is that you are suggesting that if the less experienced rider runs recommended pressures of the tire manufacturer that they will have less grip available and that they may slide off the road. You then missed that and suggested that I said by running 34/36 that they will explode or delaminate.

I did not say that, the tire engineers indicate that the additional heat in the carcass will result in decreased performance, reduced tire life and possibly a deformed carcass. The tire engineers also state that lowering the tire pressure does not change the rubber compound and therefore can not offer additional grip (you can easily argue that slightly changing the pressures for the street could result in a different or better contact patch and that may increase you feeling of grip with the tire and that is a valid point).

Manufacturers recommended cold pressures are the same the world over, but what really matters is HOT ! Also remember that those pressures are recommended at an industry standard 20c ambients temperature ! What was the temp where you live when you last checked them ?

Imagine dragging the bike out on the first dry day of spring in 5c temps checking your pressures at 36/42, then a couple of weeks later you have a mini heat wave of 30c guess where your tyre pressures are gonna be !? Over the recommended setting.

Now imagine the difference between setting the cold pressure in Texas summer temps & running on red hot tarmac & doing the same in Alaska autumn, running on cold roads. Do you think the running temp & thus pressure will be the same ? Simple answer NO.

Now go adjust your pressures to suit your needs !

I disagree with this statement for street riding as well or else we would be directed to set our tires pressure when hot. The engineers have already taken this into account in the design of the tire as the heat put into the carcass by an underinflated tire has more of an impact on the pressure than whether or not the pavement the tire just rolled across is damp and shady from a recent shower or sitting in the midday sun.

^^ sometimes common sense just falls on deaf ears, well said Mohawk.

To many people are like sheep & need to follow, just because there is a spec sheet of recommended settings for everything doesn't mean there the be all & end all of settings. People modify there bikes differently, buy different model bikes, buy different tires, use different oil & the list goes on. The most important thing is to use tires & pressures that YOU the rider feel confident with, it doesn't matter if you can obtain the same grip wear with a harder compound tire or higher pressure than you like to run, the important thing is the rider has confidence in his/her set up. I run a softer compound on the VFR than I need 95% of the time & waste money having to replace my tires due to lower mileage, but I feel more at ease knowing I have lets say an extra level of tolerance if I do push the limits which would probably be less than 5% of the time.

Sometimes common sense does indeed fall on deaf ears but many more times internet wisdom is accepted as proven science. I still say 32/32 for the street is too low for Candy RC46 and that is what started this entire pissing match. Neither LuvtoLean, Mohawk nor Roy are new riders and I know that as a VFR owner you are not like the other sheeple who only make bike buying decisions based on the magazine test or spec sheet and I have no issue with every rider playing with their air pressure settings just as they do fork oil height, rear ride height, tire choice and even, synthetic vs dino oil but to tell a guy that running the recommended tire pressure of the tire manufacturer will not work unless they are slabbing it or loaded down commuting needs to have another counter point.

not trying to continue an argument or end one, to each his own, just trying to provide a different perspective on the statement below.

And you need to put more air in your tires, 36/42

I see those numbers posted often. Those are stock pressure settings and not ideal for twisty work. Perfect for commuting and such but definitely not what I would run if you are throwing the thing through turns with anger.

32/32 is still really low for the street. Street use is where the manufacturers design the tires for, and they design them to work their best at 36/42. For the track lower pressures are fine, but unless you are going fast to the point where you are backing it in every corner, there isn't much of a reason to run 10psi lower *on the street. A couple psi down maybe.

ps...if this is too lengthy to read, just cut to this line, everyone was right, my apologies.

Update:

Under 3k miles. The rear BT-023 is D-U-N done. The front has about 2/3 life left, which is impressive.

$/mile

BT-023 front (est) $100/7.5k-$.013/mile (hard for me to believe if I didn't ride the miles myself)

RS2 front $130/5k-$.026/mile

BT-23 rear $135/3k=$.045/mile (not much of a deal, despite lower pricepoint)

RS2 rear $180/5k=$.036/mile (and better in rain)

Interested to see how you go, I would vote for you to try a RSII rear to see how the 023 front wears.

I've got Pilot Powers. Two seven hundred mile trips of Superslab riding has created an unfortunate flat spot on the rear, but the front is okay. I will try the Road2 on the back. I don't do much riding in the rain so I don't think I need the Pilot Power Road 3s.

Also, I know some of you use a Pilot Power up front and a Pilot Road on the back. I spoke to a Michelin Rep who didn't see the need to have the Power up front; he thought I ought to get the road 2 set. Maybe he was just trying to sell me something.

The Michelin guy probably doesn't understand the desire for the front and rear to wear out at the same rate. Nothing I disliked more before I started using ST tires on the rear with Sport tire on the front than that in between set of tires where the rear was worn out but the front looked ok so I spooned another rear on and the front feel was crap.

nothing feels better than a new pair of shoes on the VFR...

You guys all made some good points. I am going to deflate my tires by 10 psi right now, not sure how I missed this.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/56462-6th-gen-tire-pressure-concern-question/

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/54334-whats-the-diff-between-a-p-power-and-a-p-road-2/

never mind, I think I will re-inflate them after reading these other posts. I am so confused now.

And that is my point, when was the last time you ran the tire manufacturers recommended pressure on the street? These aren't the bias ply tires of two decades ago.

If it has been more than a the last two or three tire advancements then you should run the correct air pressure on the street and tell us what you find. What ill handling issue are you correcting by dropping your pressures from the tire engineers recommended pressure?

What test data can you provide that shows you have more grip on the street by lowering your tire pressures below the design engineers?

We old dogs with a few decades of riding under our belt will probably just agree to disagree but I don't want some new riders on here thinking that your two decade long riding with your tires below the design specification for air pressure is empirical data that must be followed or they will blow up or slide off the road.

LMAO. Yeah running 34/36 and your tire will delaminate, explode, and slide off the road!!!! Dumbest shit I've read on here yet.

I posted what I run. You can hand down absolutes, myself, I don't deal with them so you'll have to pardon the demeanor.

You must have missed the parts of my post where I spoke to several tire mfr's about hard twisty riding and pressures. 2 different reps recommended 34/36. 36/42 is the max rating, hell it's printed on my bike. It's not rocket science that when you drop a few psi you get more contact patch.

I run even lower pressures at the track (32/32) and I've never had a tire explode or cause me to take a trip in the litter. It sounds like you don't know much about PSI or grip.

What you should do is not blow a gasket when someone doesn't agree with you. Stock pressure for all is nonsense. I ran stock pressure on both of my bikes when new, and one of them was bought this year. That shit didn't last long either.

Your reading comprehension is terrible but your distraction and obfuscation is spot on...

And you need to put more air in your tires, 36/42

I see those numbers posted often. Those are stock pressure settings and not ideal for twisty work. Perfect for commuting and such but definitely not what I would run if you are throwing the thing through turns with anger.

32/32 is still really low for the street. Street use is where the manufacturers design the tires for, and they design them to work their best at 36/42. For the track lower pressures are fine, but unless you are going fast to the point where you are backing it in every corner, there isn't much of a reason to run 10psi lower *on the street. A couple psi down maybe.

This is what was originally said this is still the best advice for Candy RC46, he does not need 10 psi below the tire manufacturers recommended pressure for the street, regardless of how much anger he exhibits when throwing his bike through turns on the street.

Feel free to play with the your tire pressures but Yoshi was right with his advice.

And you need to put more air in your tires, 36/42

I see those numbers posted often. Those are stock pressure settings and not ideal for twisty work. Perfect for commuting and such but definitely not what I would run if you are throwing the thing through turns with anger.

This is not true. The stock pressure settings for street tires being run on the street are perfectly fine. Anything more than a couple psi low and you are doing more harm than good on the street.

At the track where you can monitor tire pressures when hot and you are running CONSISTENT triple digits for extended periods of time feel free to play with the tire pressure but even on a 20 minutes per hour track day session the Michelin Engineers say to run the pressure recommended on the sidewalls.

And it has nothing to do with lawyers and everything to do with how the tire is designed.

From my experience over 2 decades with various tires and motorcycles, sorry my experience says otherwise. How is more grip harm over good? I'll just agree to disagree and will keep running my tire pressures that I've run for a decade on my roads. I don't run stock tire pressures unless I'm on a trip with lots of slab.

And that is my point, when was the last time you ran the tire manufacturers recommended pressure on the street? These aren't the bias ply tires of two decades ago.

If it has been more than a the last two or three tire advancements then you should run the correct air pressure on the street and tell us what you find. What ill handling issue are you correcting by dropping your pressures from the tire engineers recommended pressure?

What test data can you provide that shows you have more grip on the street by lowering your tire pressures below the design engineers?

We old dogs with a few decades of riding under our belt will probably just agree to disagree but I don't want some new riders on here thinking that your two decade long riding with your tires below the design specification for air pressure is empirical data that must be followed or they will blow up or slide off the road.

And you need to put more air in your tires, 36/42

I see those numbers posted often. Those are stock pressure settings and not ideal for twisty work. Perfect for commuting and such but definitely not what I would run if you are throwing the thing through turns with anger.

This is not true. The stock pressure settings for street tires being run on the street are perfectly fine. Anything more than a couple psi low and you are doing more harm than good on the street.

At the track where you can monitor tire pressures when hot and you are running CONSISTENT triple digits for extended periods of time feel free to play with the tire pressure but even on a 20 minutes per hour track day session the Michelin Engineers say to run the pressure recommended on the sidewalls.

And it has nothing to do with lawyers and everything to do with how the tire is designed.

that blog is a good read but that guy sounds A LOT smarter than me and he has a year and only gotten the thing to red RPM and fire the ignition....

I may try anyway

Anybody know if this can control the ignition as well as the fuel?

http://www.useasydocs.com/index.html

This is specifically what I am trying to understand...

http://microsquirt.info/indexright.htm

Bullet points 1 and 2 in the bottom link above.