Vee-Ef-Ar

9 hours ago, JZH said:

Now, if they only sold the grommets separately...

Surely someone with a 7thGen has or will change their plugs sooner or later... and have a decent set of vernier calipers.

adkfinn - The 129700-4800 sounds promising, let us know

I'm in the VFROZ camp, where prices are somewhat surprising, including the not-so "plug and play" options.

15 hours ago, yogisays09 said:

Denso part number means like this ? 129700-5370

I searched some time ago and got the same pn. 129700-5370

No problems here over the years with several sets.

Don't trim / bend the wrong tab and mount them upside down.

Hi Vee-Ef-Ar,

Thank you for your donation of --. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.

Thanks VFRDiscussion

Very nice VFROZ... and Seb.

Are they rubberised toe pieces?

Replaced both headlights (blew both low beams)

Replaced a faulty LED T10 in the dash too

Getting speedier taking that nose off

Nice one Rob... welcome to dual GDC ownership.

Got a leaky tank?

Hi Uniron81, thanks for the reply.

I've gone ahead and ordered a new carrier and will more than likely do as you will too.

This must be the only topic that addresses the rear wheel bearings... that I could find. Thanks HS

I noticed some play with my rear wheel the other day and was interested to know what bearings/parts I'm going to need to rebuild this.

From my googling it looks like the entire rear end has 3 types of bearing.

The main needle bearing

A double radial ball bearing

And another ball bearing in the sprocket carrier

It looks like you can buy the entire assembly (which is what I'll probably do) to save pressing two of the bearings.

Has anyone done this before, any tips or knowledge I should know before I buy parts. I was thinking Ron Ayers, as locally the assembly is very expensive.

Thanks

I went from 43T to 45T on rear and did not have to add any chain links. '07 VFR.

Same... '98.

I did have to remove/reinstall that lower rubberised chain guard though.

I clean down occasionally with turpentine and hit her with Motul Chain Oil.

Just changed the chain and sprockets... 17/45... love it.

Gave me surprise when it straightened out me elbows leaving the lights.

Should have done it sooner, but the chain lasted 101,000km.

If anyone is interested here is a pic of the chain stretch:

Never cease to amaze me Larry. Beautiful work.

Rotten luck mate, I hope someone can come to the table and help you out.

Failing the dealer in the UK, I'd be inclined to write to Honda (UK/JP) directly.

What did you find for clip ons? Get a set of 1200 stockers?

I have a set of 1200 clips kindly donated from fotodadi as he went with aftermarket.

I actually thought they would be the hardest to find, but turns out these SP1 triples are like gold.

Thanks for your input Bren, I guess once you have the stops lined up nicely, you could go ahead and weld them on.

That's definitely an option I would consider.

I have messaged a few other members on their setup, some have done what's listed above, or chose to go without stops.

I have also started looking at switchgear that is compatible with my master cylinders.

I know I am dragging this off topics again... but the Showa stickers for the forks... does anyone know where I can get these?

Looking at pics here at VFRD, they have the Showa name, but also some numbers/letter associated with it.

This may seem alittle "out there", but does anyone have specs for the 1200 lower?

What's the bet Honda changed everything.

Scratch that... the things flat.

Not much pricer than the SP1 though.

Looking at the second pic, I don't see why a flat 954 lower wouldn't work just as well as the SP1 lower?

I thought this may be the reason, when using SP forks.

Looks to have "better" adjustability with the gullwing.

Bloody Hondas.

Once the rubber side ain't down, all bets are off no matter what stops you use.

Any special bolts needed for the alloy?

Titanium? I'm thinking interactions and corrosion.

Tap depth?

Have they started using metric up there?

I went with the Viffer800Canuck method of drilling and tapping holes then using bolts with nuts to lock them against the triple. Drilled perpendicular to the surface to allow the lock nuts to sit flush for more contact.

Yeah this sounds like the way I'm gonna go.

Now all I need is a link to go back there.

Some good info to go on here folks, thanks.

I had thought the 51 forks had a bulge where the lower clamps to it, but it doesn't.

My upper came with a plastic ignition shroud also.

Looks easy to cut and fit.

Back to looking for SP1 lowers and those Showa stickers.

Bloody price went up on these new, the other week.

vfrcapn, did you manage to change your seals?

Looks like I'll be shimming it down then.

Thanks

For my situation, having the stops are more important than the lock.

Knew I would stall with the clamp.

How many years you been thinking JZH?

And you have two of them, lol.

So the triples can be machined as is, to reproduce the stops?

Still have to make a nuts/bolt list... inta me for that!

Yeah the steering stops are of great concern due to the precise location and fabrication involved.

I think from memory some have used small cam-like stops which can be adjusted to suit and bolted to the triple.

And others have used meaty hex socket head bolts directly into the triple.

I haven't touched on this much as I haven't got the part yet, but I do have concerns about getting it right.

I read the 954/929 flat lower has clearance issues with the frame or other parts so I went with the recommended gullwing SP1 lower on my 5G. I think I also read the RC51 flat upper wouldn't leave enough fork showing for clip-ons, so I went with the suggested gullwing 954 upper. I'll have the forks off this week for new seals and can take pics of the lower clearance issues if needed.

Thanks mate, any pics before I'm wrenching would be awesome.

Got the upper sorted, but finding an SP1 lower has been a long winded exercise.

Oh and now that you mention the forks, does anyone know where can get good matching Showa stickers from.

I have these knarly huge Racetech things on mine, but all I'm finding is dirtbike stuff.

929 and 954 are the flat ones. Seems to me I've read that those are less easy to swap than the gullwing SP1. And of course the SP2 use a larger diameter stem.

Not finding anything right away on why the flat lower is less desirable...

I think it's the 6th gen that has oil cooler mount clearance issues.

Thanks KP... I didn't even see the gullwing difference on the lowers

Going blind, so looks like I am back to RC51 searching again, as I am using the forks.

As for the 954/929 triples being less desirable, maybe it's cause they don't fit the 51 forks properly, or allow a nice adjustment.

Gday MD... start mate? I've almost finished!!

Finished the collection I mean. I have the chart and I know that all the listed triples will fit with the forks.

I was just after the little intricacies of each, as in the steering stops and possibly the pinch bolt placements and stem lengths.

I know there can be some interference with the oil cooler (I think) and just popped the q before I send the cash OS.

I just wondered if one was better/stronger/easier... than the other.

I had alot of this info in my PMs but they went bye bye.