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Posts posted by FotoMoto
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It's cheaper to buy them (#16242) from that same vendor but through Amazon! http://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Well-Nuts-M5-8-Length/dp/B0040D2P7E
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Well Kevin it's beyond your skillz so I won't explain.
Say do you have spare 5th gen motor? Mine's been running a little hot but damn the oil looks good! I shouldn't need to change it for at least 50k miles!!!
BTW you'll need a special tool for this project: http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13&products_id=51&zenid=Z40Abxs5Sk4Vqm9TNzpL30
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Since you guys are so into bypass mods, I'm going to hook you up with another great idea. The oil bypass kit: http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=11&products_id=40&zenid=OFYx5ZRs4FwQYQn1b7iWA3
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Does anyone have any experience with the Delkevic exhaust from Edgewood CO? The price is better than others especially for a full system. Availabilty for 5th gens is great! I ride a 2000 in the fast color! am still running the cat header with a Sanitune slip-on. Comments??
Yeah, I gave 'em a shot and ordered a full system. I haven't put the headers on yet (winter project) but bolted on the pipe right away. I made a tiny bracket to link the muffler clamp to the stock mounting point on the footpeg bracket. Much cleaner look IMO.
I'm one of those weird guys who doesn't like loud so I went with their longest can and also use the dB killer/baffle; even removed, it's still fairly quiet. If you want more, go with something like the OP got. Video is with the baffle in.
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When I was building my RCBVFR (patent pending), I originally wanted to go with an RC45 tail. At the time, one of the track body companies still made one in fiberglass. It was very rigid, not all that light, and would most likely shatter in an accident; however, they are easy to repair when needed. I would look for plastic items.
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What are you going to do about the stock dumbo's?
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Looks good, but honestly, I'm mystified why you would want to make a VFR look like a CBR?
That's a good question. At the time, I had bought my second 4gen which was cheap because it needed all the bodywork fixed. After a lot of research, I narrowed it down to using the second gen CBR600RR bodywork because:
a) 4 gen bodywork was very expensive to replace (now not available in the USA)
b) 4 gen design and materials used were incredibly fragile (you can drop it on the right side and damage parts on the left!)
c) CBR was a huge seller at the time so bodywork was cheap and plentiful on the used market.
d) the red was a close enough match that painting was not needed.
e) mounting points were a close match so very little fabrication needed.
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Sorry to hear you're selling. To help, you should post better closeup pics of the repaired bodywork in your ad.
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I'm not posting this in a fishing for compliments sort of way but I wonder how many replicas I've inspired via VFRdiscussion (the only place I've ever posted it) since I came up with the 2003+ CBR600R bodywork/KOSO gauges concept nearly 10 years ago? Man, how time flies.
http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/32026-rcbvfr-frankenviffer-texas-style/
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Lockhart, less than 30 minutes south of the track, is my hometown. It's home to some really, really good Texas style BBQ joints and cheap motels. Trivia: the HBO series "The Leftovers" is filmed there. Beware of the high speed tollway next to the track, the cops hang out there hoping to catch motogp wannabe's.
The grandstand seating will give you TV type viewing of the race as they have large screen monitors everywhere to watch the other parts of the course. I would also suggest the free, ground seating on "the hill" at turn 1 as it offers views of the the entire track (screens there too).
At that time of the year, the weather can be all over the map from cold and rainy to hot and windy but usually it's mild with cool mornings and sunny afternoons. Not a lot of shade so prepare accordingly. Me and my son did a sat/sun combo and still didn't see and do everything available. As usual, trackside food/bev prices aren't cheap.
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I can't help but stare at the color mis-match, but I have asked other people and they don't even notice. Even when I steer them towards looking at it.
Years ago, I fixed up this 4G when used plastics were still reasonably plentiful and occasionally a good buy on ebay. You can't tell from the pic but nearly every panel had a slightly different hue to my eye.
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It does look sharp! How much does it weigh?
Sorry, no idea but it didn't feel much different from the stocker.
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Any lube is good IF you use it correctly. Start with a very clean chain by using rags and kerosene (harsher chemicals can damage the o-rings), let dry and apply the product.
Choice of product is kinda' a religion with some. I've gone the gamut over the years and now just use wd-40. Why? Because it's a works well as both a light duty cleaner and protector and it has many other uses around the house. I lube via a quick wipe down after rides longer than 30ish miles. Put bike on centerstand in neutral, spray wd40 liberally on a rag, spin the tire clockwise while letting the bottom run of the chain run thru the damp rag. Only takes a minute or two, the chain always looks great because you cleaned and lubed at the same time, and minimum fling. This method also has the direction of the chain spinning backwards so you won't get your fingers possibly caught up in the rear sprocket.
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In order to resurrect neglected finishes (notice poor condition mirror condoms), I do two coats/passes each in this order: rubbing compound, polishing compound, scratch remover, and light wax. First three steps with foam pads and electric drill (used like an orbital) and finally wax by hand. Start to finish, this will take approx. 1 hour PER large panel and tank but obviously less for front fender/seat cowl. I spent even more time on my tank due to some fine cat-like scratches in two spots.
Oh yeah, and start with an absolutely clean finish (at least two passes on the leading edges for bugs/road grime with a good degreaser).
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I just buffed mine today too. Used the road.....not something I'd recommend.
I think you used a little too abrasive of a compound.
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He's been trying to sell it on ebay also. I bought one in similar shape years ago in the same price range but much less corrosion. Fixing corrosion can be either expensive (replacement parts) or cheap (lots of manual labor/elbow grease). It was my second 4G so I knew how cost prohibitive replacing OEM bodywork was and had planned from the get go to make mine a project bike instead of a restoration.
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180 will fit the rear with no implications, the Angel's are great tyres though :)
Well if you install your own tires by hand like I do, there is at least one implication: it's harder to get on because it needs more pinching to fit the narrower rim. The 180 will thus have a more rounded profile but I, like most others, can't really find much of a handling difference. Due to this and for styling reasons, I ran a 5/6th gen rear wheel on my last 4th gen.
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Hey there...just one question,i'd be interested to know which bike you prefer riding,and how the vfr compares to the speed trip
Oh that's easy, I prefer riding the VFR. LOL I'm laughing because that's a trick answer: my current red 98 speedy isn't in running condition due to procrastination. My previous black '06 was a very nice ride indeed but as you can see I made extensive modifications to make it as capable as the VFR is right out of the box. I really like the speedy's better low end kick but overall I prefer the VFR's total package. I'm picking nits here as both are great and fun bikes. I live in a location of long straights and high speed sweepers so an unfaired bike is at an disadvantage.
Cheers.
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Main fuse?
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Had a '92 CBR600F2 back in the day with white wheels. Loved 'em but took a lot care. Hint: use a firm bristle toothbrush with your choice of liquid cleaner to get into the tight spaces. Source a good comfy low stool.
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That bike is looking very nice now!! Do I see you on GM-Volt.com occasionally too?
Yup, still there but sold the Volt a while back for a CMax; needed more room for the kiddo's.
Got some more done this weekend.
Added a used PC3 and installed PC software and maps on an old PC laptop (mac user) to update the PC3 that came with a stock map. Currently running the remus pipe map with my delkevic CF highmount pipe; probably too rich (didn't need choke but it's still summer here) but I have the others to play with.
Found some used OEM 2K mirrors to de-condom my 99. What can I say, I prefer unsheathed!
The last owner had a new OEM stator and R/R installed so to give them an easier life I got new battery tender jr.; a previous Black & Decker unit had stopped working.
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As the 98-99 headers are as rare as hens teeth, this is my best option for cat removal on my 2000. I'm itching to order a set. Unless someone has a set for sale?
Not really, I've seen several used sets on me-pay of late; however, I did go with new over 16 year old stockers. Or better yet, a used "new" set of SS for a great price: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-vfr-delkevic-full-header-system-98-09-/321853703819?hash=item4aeff9c68b&vxp=mtr
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Incidentally, my forks looked exactly like that from front tire sandblasting on Florida coastal roads. The bike had never seen salt. I painted 'em semi-gloss black when I did the RaceTech internals.
Spent the holiday weekend cleaning, sanding, prepping and painting the fork lowers with Rustoleum hammered silver, cleaning and polishing the rotors, and plasti-dipping the wheels black. Just a short term solution until I can get them powder coated but still a big improvement in the mean time.
Before:
After:
Also sourced a rear seat cowl via me-pay:
More stuff coming in the post!
Nuts. Well Nuts, Cowl Setting Nuts, Fairing Nuts
in Fifth Generation VFR's
Posted
Ordered, shipped, and received within 5 days to my door step via Amazon non-prime shipping. Total costs approximately .82 cents/pc.
My local dealer charges MSRP for them: $3.80 each!