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FotoMoto

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Posts posted by FotoMoto

  1. The 4gen has both a fuel level gauge and "reserve" light. The cbr1000 gauge only has a low fuel light. So, on the schematic you will need to trace the three vfr wires coming from the tank sending unit and see which one goes to the reserve bulb. That's the wire you'll connect to the the cbr unit. You don't need to buy or adapt anything. The other two vfr wires won't be used. The cbr low fuel light should come on with about 1 gal left.

    Good luck and lets see some pics!

  2. Yeah, I was thinking more of the USD fork guys.

    When mounting these fork clamps above the triple to add handelbars, the benefit I immediately see is not having to drill the top bridge (triple) to mount risers for handlebars in the typical fashion. The negative I see is having to cut up a perfectly good set of handle bars BEFORE one is certain they will like the results thus it can't return for another set and they are effectively ruined.

    Another area of concern is with wide mounting points that unless you use a flat drag style bar (and what would be the point of that?), the overall bar width increases even more than standard handlebars. When I added handlebars to both my 4 and 6gen VFR's I cut them both shorter. Granted I know he is not simply cutting them in half and bolting them in. Rather he did cut some of the middle out but there still needs to be enough straight section left before the rise for clamping purposes. I'm guessing this method is adding two maybe three inches of additional width over the traditional method. It's hard to tell from just one pic though.

    I hope this doesn't sound like I'm dissing the idea/concept rather I see it as another tool in the chest of the modders' arsenal but I think it does need some further thought and "testing". Go for it Seb! +1.gif

  3. Whatcha think?

    :angry: on thinking outside the box.

    But in terms of an alternative to bikes with stock fairings, I don't think it would be as versatile as one might think mainly because of the clamp location. Being in front of the forks and below the triple is quiet a disadvantage to overcome when you want to add both rise and pull back yet still clear the fairing uppers. BTDT In my experience, the higher and further back you can start the easier it is.

    Now if the idea is too keep the clip on type of forward reach but with a tad more height (still remain inside fairing uppers; no trimming, etc), this should work OK. For streetfighters with little or no upper fairings, they won't have this limitation so the skies the limit. I'm thinking ape hangers! +1.gif

  4. Jordan,

    Simply adding SS lines won't eliminate the LBS system but will; however, improve your braking feel. You can search here and the interweb in general for ways to "de-link" the system as that subject has been around just about as long as LBS has. Basically, it's not as simple/easy as you'd think; especially on the 6gen.

  5. That looks great, well done. :fing02:

    I think we might like to see pictures of the work in progress, rather than just the finished product.

    +1.gif

    +1.gif

    Yeah, lets see the nitty-gritty details.

    GOOD JOB! :tour:

    Oh, and here's a thread that might be of interest to you :goofy: :smile: :

  6. Ha, I came here to ask whether something like this could be done to a 5th gen... I'd like a more modern look, but I really want a v4.

    I would think you might have issues with the side radiator airflow and cbr fairings. RC51's have side rads but one member (Kevin Perham) said they don't fit. Dunno' myself.

  7. OK ladies and gents I think I'm through with it. Of late I've added a new upper from the 2005 cbr600rr which has a much neater air intake over the 03/04 cheese grater design I used previously. The black plastic intake needed some minor trimming to clear the oil cooler seen in the background.

    gallery_611_2920_195354.jpg

    But what I'm really liking are the new side covers. These were also pirated from the 600rr but greatly cut down to fit. I had to make some minor brackets for the bottom bolt and the upper tank screw utilizes a slightly new design. I now realize I don't have the closeup pics of those on this computer so I'll add them later. Anyway this is the finished look as of today approx. 3 years later. I can't believe it's been that long.

    gallery_611_2920_89038.jpg

    Poke it with a fork, I think it's FINALLY DONE! :fing02:

  8. Hello, all..

    I see that there's a lot of exprerience in this posting and I have a question. I have a 2003 954RR, and I would like to install Ohlins forks on it, the thing is that the they don't make them anymore. I can see here that it's possible to change the triples, if it's possible, how would I do it? I was thinking of using 1000RR triples, would they fit in my bike? Do I need to change the stem? What would happen with the brake setup? Would I have any problems with the front wheel (aligment, will be centered)?

    Thank you for your time.

    WOW, only VFRd has non-vfr owners joining. :blink: +1.gif

    Yes, early CBR1000RR Ohlins forks will slip right into your stock triples and should be readily available new. They will; however, be shorter than yours by a few mm's IIRC. This will speed up the handling but will also lower front end height which could lead to dragging hard parts (headers) earlier.

    YMMV

  9. Why couldn't you return the risers for higher ones? Also, a hard rubber spacer should have worked too. Suzuki used that method on the old bandit 1200s I had.

    Another thought: you could have tried lowering the forks down in the triple a couple of mm's to give you the necessary clearance. Lowering the forks should slow steering but the "power steering" effect of much wider handlebars (as you are about to find out) would have negated that. Anyway, that's all water under the bridge now that you have LSL kit or can you still return it? :comp13:

    Adjust the handlebar the way you want, temporarily mount the switchgear tightly but don't strip out the threads and ride it for a while to make sure you are satisfied with the positioning of everything; make adjustments as necessary. Leave switches in place and remove brake/clutch perches so you'll have room to add an alignment index to the bar with a piece of tape. The horizontal line where the two halves of the switchgear come together is a natural reference point to align the tape with. Next, remove switchgear and put a dab of dark grease or similar on the locating pins. Carefully reattach the bottom switch half with the alignment tape and press against bar. Remove and check for the dot. Remove bar, centerpunch the dots, and drill with correct size bit; too large of a hole and switch will move/rock.

    Hope this makes sense without pics.

  10. Doug, FM and I were talking about the footpegs only, not the entire footrest/bracket. That does give me an idea though, I can measure my F4i bracket for you and see if it will work on the 4th gen. I'll let you know later tonight(if I forget, PM me!)

    I checked once with an ebay vendor if F4i rearsets would work with the 6gen and they said no (off by several mm). Don't know if they would fit the 4gen.

  11. Doug: The koso sensor threads into the thermostat housing. It replaces the stock unit. Hope you have small hands! :biggrin: The sensor on the rad is the fan switch. Best to leave that alone if you want a fully functioning cooling system! :cool:

    Seb: Yes, those are aftermarket F4i footpegs (HK knockoffs). They bolt right onto the RC hangers. Years ago, I tried them on my first 4gen as the original metal pegs were slippery plus I wanted to try reducing vibrations with a rubber peg. To get them to fit I needed to grind down the peg's mounting width a slight tad (technical term) to fit the narrower vfr hanger assemblies; no changes needed to pins or springs, etc.

  12. Do I just swap the F4 tubes into my VFR or do I use the F4 steering stem and the VFR upper triple tree? I thought the F4 tubes are 43mm and the 5th gens are 41mm. Do I need to get a different triple tree?

    You are correct and need the f4i triple set as they are 43mm. Even better IMO: get a set of vtec triples (same 43mm size) for closer to stock geometry but they are harder to find since vfr riders tend to crash less than the cbr guys. :fing02: +1.gif

    • Like 1
  13. So Foto what did you use in the end, the 954 or 1000rr? If the 954 Hammer or Grind?

    I'm running a cbr1000r lower (non-gullwing) and 954 upper with sp2 forks. I used a rubber mallet to make it work. :goofy:

    Although mine looked like it was new out of the box, it could just be a coincidence that we both got tweaked 954 uppers. OR the 1000rr triple tree has a slightly different offset. :fing02:

    Next time I have the front end apart, I'll try the 1000rr upper. It's not that ugly, really. :goofy:

  14. Rake and trail is a culmination of headstock angle, triple offset, and fork length, so your assumption is not necessarily correct.

    Nor necessarily incorrect.

    I have a similar setup to Bren and mine was a very tight fit too (954 upper). Since everything was used but sold as "straight", I just assumed something wasn't. Also like Bren, I had another one (in my case a cbr1000rr upper) that slid on smoothly. I run a cbr1000rr lower.

    Again since everything I have is used, I can't say with 100% certainty what is correct but I'm now leaning towards the 954 is a tad different.

    Jamie, the early cbr1000rr uppers are gullwing and will work but they are "cosmetically challenged" because of the electronic steering damper mounting points.

  15. Polished frame on my old superhawk. Made me feel like a harley fag because of all the needless time spent trying to keep it decent looking. The chromed wheels came in a close second. Pretty and low maintenance but they were kinda' like putting steel-toed work boots on a track athlete. :goofy: The wheels I would later replaced for a tidy profit but the frame was always there....... :comp13:

    gallery_611_303_609472.jpg

    KG9K3628.jpg

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