Veefer800Canuck

Something borrowed, something blue.........

Something stainless, yes it's true.

There are also many other factors to consider besides just oil weight all by itself.

Race teams, for years now, have used a "thinner" oil to reduce frictional losses and gain that extra 1.1-1.5 Hp (or whatever it is).

BUT, they also change their oil every 60 miles, and probably rebuild the engine every 2nd race meeting for max HP.

AND, they build the engines "tight" in the top end, and "loose" on the bottom end, for the best combustion efficiency and the least frictional losses.

None of that is practical nor applicable to a STREETbike.

Also, with oils running at the "typical" factory manual's recommended mileage intervals on a STREET going motorcycle, there are things to consider like fuel dilution and perhaps shearing of the oil by the clutch and transmission.

That can reduce an oil's viscosity index significantly near the end of the oil drain interval.

How low can it go before you run into lubrication problems? I don't know, and I don't want to find out.

I'll stick with my Mobil-1 15W50 and if I lose 0.9 of a horsepower because of it, I probably won't mourn the loss.

Last time I had my clutch cover and valve covers off, all the working parts inside the engine looked MINT, shiny clean and perfect. Cam lobes, etc. All PERFECT.

16 years and almost 100,000km and I haven't had a single oil related failure ever. Been using either Motul or Mobil 15W50 exclusively since I bought the bike.

Good enough for me.

Ooh, Sebby clutch cover and Duck wheel!

That thing running yet Murray?

<poke poke>

I got nothing for ya except mine are STILL working great!

Don't forget the turbocharger on that big diesel, spinning away at 100,000 RPM.

I think that qualifies as "high speed".

awesome

this is one bike that I can relate to in flat black

VTR250 trackbike.

Now that will teach you late braking, and corner entry speed.

Because there's no such thing as "making it up on the next straight with throttle".

Haha.

Nice paint scheme, interesting muffler.

I sent him a PM for updates.

As long as the tone ring lines up correctly with the sensor, there's no reason that won't work.

As per ApexAndy's request, yes.

You mean you're not supposed to use a 3/4" impact on the drain plug and a 36" pipe wrench on the filter?

Dammit, I've been doin it wrong.....

Just put in a 1" NPT hex plug for lightning quick oilchanges! haha

:-(

Bump.........

Approaching year 6

Must be over 3000 miles on it now, just from pushing it around the shop, eh?

That's one way to do it!

As a reminder for those with 5th and 6th gens, the clutch cover is identical between both models, as well as the RC45 (RVF750).

Just to help out your Ebay-ing

You're welcome.

Be sure your pedals are properly adjusted and the rear brake is not dragging, and the brake light works correctly.

Other than that, your hips will thank you.

Oh I didn't know.....carry on then.

Would this help??

http://www.emachineshop.com

Where's that dang PUKE emoticon again.......

Oh, here it is!

Good luck! Post pics!

Just finished replacing the stator.

Used shishkebob skewers for guides when putting cover back on. Worked like a charm!

Really really long metric bolts of the same thread, with the heads cut off, make the best install tools for the stator and cover assembly.

Nice!