kgsmotorcycles

Going for a full service soon and might try the cops again..

Engine blueprint on the cards as i have rebuilt so many boat engines this year, my vfr rebuild should be fun, saving a fortune...

Spark still running poor (im down 1 pot) after putting genuine coils back on end of last year...

so....more updates be interesting from any1 else who has tried the stick coils.

Just removed my k8 gsxr1000 cops.

The engine stall at 2000 seems to have gone. The pops have reduced..

Maybe i should have tried the honda cops?...

The plugs were very dirty and got a swift clean and rough re-gap... Poss not firing proper. leaving excess deposits on plug..

looks like engine runs better now... needs a good run out

but got put off my last track day due to rubber gone passed its wear markers, magnesium Dymags might want replacing ..

forks seals have leaked on one side.... were fine last track day, but that was the start of the season... lack of use?

With a big bore done and new wheels ill be looking at £5000.....

not much gonna happen any time soon...

Have seen fully kitted race Triumph triples for about 3500...

hmmmm

Been there from the start for sure..up to operating temps make little difference to the idle.

no issue when on the boil.....all thru last year that was..

its just a tick over hiccup im feeling...

Have yours become unseated at all?

Mine did and as soon as i pushed them home again i was on all 4...

Nothing to add to the post just thanks for letting me hear the engine. I am having withdrawals. I must fire my motorcycle up tomorrow, tooooooooo loooooooong!!!!!!!!!!

Maybe you mentioned it before douglas, but what coils are you using? Also, out of curiosity do you have a voltmeter on your bike? If so, would you be able to let us know what your readings are at idle before and after the mod? I'm still confused why certain aspects of this mod didn't work so well for me. And let us know how it goes!

A good ride on the weekend....

Still had a rough bottom end.. but not an issue when on the go...

Bike was running very well indeed.

Best handling outing so far as i dropped forks from 19 to 15mm showing above top yoke. Stabilized the high speed running no end. The lack of weight was obvious pulling the front up out of tight bends and clearly having power to hit passed bikes down the straight. Enough to get moved up a group after first session to get some competition..

When i got home i checked bike over only to see the RR was showing signs of meltdown on one of the stator 3 yellow wires.. hmm. Caught just in time i hope before more mishap?

But more notable i saw one of the COPS had come loose a little..

I released the bottom boot on the COP and reconnected it to give a more positive connection. Might be the problem?

I thought maybe it is a tad too long and does not sit well enough, maybe only by a few mm, maybe the rubber boot pushes the good connection loose a touch?...As when i fired her up, the bottom end roughness was gone! Tick over fine....hmm...

After i find a fresh RR connector and rewire i will test some more...

How is yours functioning KGS? After fixing the loose coil has the stabling issue disappeared?

Warm up sequence...You can listen while u read..

https://www.dropbox.com/s/w8qvt9din2nk8w9/clutch%20window%20test.AVI

8 mins in to this vid the steam clears and so i assume things are above 100C so bring revs up to 5000....

You tell me if they are firing ok?

When on track the revs sit at 8-10,000 as long as i dare...

The timing cover will be replaced soon. Was interesting too see what was happening behind there, but with a big bore kit looming i will want to get in there often.

I did hear cbr coils give a little different output reading so might be more suited than the gsxr ones i picked up?

So i have heard these fork valve kits are simple to fit, a plug and play cartridge type affair?

Think i may have sussed out why my COPs run rough after a run on occasions...

Have noticed one come loose a little and needs pushing back home to get full power back....

A simple fitting issue i think.

Have tried removing the lower rubber on the cop to see if they are too long and popping off under load?.. but no proper results yet.

Need to look into a way of keeping them fitted more secure to the plugs..

Once on, they run very well..

All the while i am scraping my knees round almost every other bend i gotta say yes the COPs are working just fine after another mega track day on Sunday! So is the wrong 929 rear shock even with wrong spring and valving....

I feel i must add for anyone else happy and skilled to modify their bike that,

I would NOT recommend any modifications over a standard Honda VFR!

The VFR is the best bike in the world as it stands.. have you not read the news?

Some mods do give very different handling characteristics than one would expect as normal without some set up knowledge and experience.

Exactly what, after sitting on a vfr for well over 300,000miles, i have been looking for.

Apart from road directions, memorized from a map or experience, what else do you think i was thinking of cruising all those miles?

Even i had some weird moments with running wide out of corners onto the wrong side of the road at pace! What first adding upside down forks did for me until i tuned the setup to bring things into predictable ride ability. Nothing that was dangerous or caused accidents thankfully. But also not my first vfr/blade mod!

Luckily i have been testing on the local, closed circuit race track and then TT race course second time round as bike was still insured and taxed. Good predictable road surfaces with lots of space and fairly quiet... never pushed things unless 100% comfortable. Which is why i dont push on the track 100% yet.

Im about 75-80% at the moment ere with this latest upside down mod. I cant yet push 100% coming out of bends or going into them yet. Have only just got to grips with high speed chatter.

Unlike my last 3rd gen build which was hit it all i dare and she will pay me back with feedback, grip and fun even using less track oriented rubber at any speeds. Maxed out 140+ for long stretches was comfy!

Real feedback is avaliable when things work well. Which is what i got from my first right way round fireblade front end and rear replacement sport vfr shock.

But that was not as simple as it sounds in reality. Easy for me now yes. But a few hoops to jump through first am afraid, especially for the uninitiated reading our mod forums.

(yer right )

I have done some extensive modifications on both ends of the bike.

And what results did you get from the modifications or experiments.. what failures?

Are there any definitive improvements over any other mod?

Whats the feedback like on the road and track compared to standard set up in your tests?

Any dyno tests with the COPs anyone?

I was looking at pushing the top of the radiator out an inch or so, just pivoting it forward. I know I will have to notch the inner cowl to accomodate this, but that shouldn't be an issue. It should also be a fairly straight-forward mod, just fab up some new top mounts, and that's it, in theory anyway...

Why not keep the standard coils if you still have the standard fairings if it means more farkeling? The weight saving is only about 1/2kg max for the new COPs and you have plenty of space to hide them still...

I plan to put my forks in full lock either direction, then move the rad up as far as possible without interfering with the steering lock. USD's really cut down on steering travel!

Have you not trimmed the plastic rad cover in the relevant places for more lock?

Like I said... My forks are pretty short... 929/954 comes in around 724mm, 1KRR comes in closer to 694mm before I began mods. That's over an inch shorter!

So about a 10mm rise, if the maths worked out linear on the rear shock, should work out about right keeping your forks flush with yokes?

Yes the turn circle is pants with these upside downs, but manageable with practice.

Too much rise on the rear and the shock spring hits the swing arm.

The benchmark on all these mods is the standard VFR itself, if only tuned 7mm up on forks etc to suit. Very good at both low and high speeds.

I still suggest in all my miles testing so far, the best forks are right way round as they offer more flex and feedback.

Like the 98/99 fireblade forks used on my 3rd gen. Can really attack entry to and exits from corners with them, TT quality high speed stability in bucket loads! I did run an EMC replacement VFR shock which worked very well, with especially good feedback.

But im still testing on my 4th gen with the upside downs. Things are definitely getting better than when i started... gradually.

The rear shock prob wants a new spring and valving to suit i suggest.

Or even a dedicated vfr upgraded shock, unlike the untuned spaced 929 ohlins i get by OK with now.

Mine run solid enough... go for it.. just make sure they dont come loose.....

22 kg is a start i guess. I am on about 60kg at the moment. Its an 84kg rear, 94kg front weight spread.

The headlight idea i have seen done before on Ducati headlights, forming plastic with the original unit as a template and some heat. A lot of work for little gain i suggest on our old Hondas. But if done well looks factory.

Best concentrate on reducing rotating weight first for ride results. But it is 'doable'....

Lexan is just a brand name for polycarbonate. This i found out a few month ago buying the plastic for my clear clutch cover job.

Using a drill and a cheap ebay replacement clutch cover for £18. Then ordered 2 clear plastic discs cut to shape from a supplier on ebay also for £16.

When i find time to finish the clutch cover i will use RTV super silicone to glue the disc in place.. hey presto... one clear clutch cover with no welding or bolts.. I will then cut my original and use the other disc so will have a spare.

The tank side panels are carbon from a ducati air box cover. Shaped along the top edge and cut to fit close to the honda tank, held on with one screw and Velcro along the top edge. Works well compared to previous attempts.

The fan is about 2 kilo and no the bike does not run hotter because of its removal.

It is only used when the temp gets over hot, usually when engine is running and bike is static.

So never used 99% of the time. I watch my water expansion bottle to see if things are going to boil over also.

If static i turn engine off anyway.

So long as the bike is moving, cooling is not an issue, even on a hot day on a track at full pelt.

A reposition would work also i presume, but i was working with a theory - less is more, if am removing the standard coils, running a race battery, running mag wheels etc etc, then the fan was fair game.

very easy, i removed fan so used the spare connection. But any positive will do.

www.daviescraig.com.au/Electric_Water_Pumps-content.aspx

I picked up the 15 liters per minute version.

Altho i bought it from Demon Tweeks, a local importer here in UK...

Dont bother with the controller.. just leave pump on when ignition comes on.

So long as the bike is moving and rad is then cooling the water, everything cools well.

With a front end from a 929/954 blade i raised the forks 19mm thru the yokes to speed up the steering that was running silly wide on corners when the forks were level with the top yoke.

Must add my eccentric is also flipped.

So on the last test i reduced the 19mm to 14mm as my high speed stability was quite disruptive and shakey. Thankfully the test showed a small reduction has helped a lot and calmed the shakes at high speed. Altho the steering is not quite as sharp now on the tight bends, with a touch more effort the steering all round performs smoother.

The rad hose was easy enough to join the electric water pump after i chopped a little from one end.

At first i chopped from both ends, but the fit was no good. Thankfully i had a spare hose to try again, then

recovered in steel braid. Also removed the metal water pipe from engine block and trimmed a little to fit other side of rubber hose for pump.

With no price $$ from fellow member tightwad, i have ordered a new RR connector and will try to build a new vfrness chopping out unmelted connectors and use of wire supplies from local auto electric dealer... i hope to crimp and will solder at home, if i can.. just hope i can use the old RR as the current one was not old at all.

A good ride on the weekend....

Still had a rough bottom end.. but not an issue when on the go...

Bike was running very well indeed.

Best handling outing so far as i dropped forks from 19 to 15mm showing above top yoke. Stabilized the high speed running no end. The lack of weight was obvious pulling the front up out of tight bends and clearly having power to hit passed bikes down the straight. Enough to get moved up a group after first session to get some competition..

When i got home i checked bike over only to see the RR was showing signs of meltdown on one of the stator 3 yellow wires.. hmm. Caught just in time i hope before more mishap?

But more notable i saw one of the COPS had come loose a little..

I released the bottom boot on the COP and reconnected it to give a more positive connection. Might be the problem?

I thought maybe it is a tad too long and does not sit well enough, maybe only by a few mm, maybe the rubber boot pushes the good connection loose a touch?...As when i fired her up, the bottom end roughness was gone! Tick over fine....hmm...

After i find a fresh RR connector and rewire i will test some more...

Tried to get an order in for a vfrness from our fellow member tightwad, but with my new specs i have had no reply yet...

Maybe the postage is a bit high or my demands are a bit confusing as i would like to change the lengths of the standard 4thgen vfrness to suit my build....

Need to sort something asap as the Manx GP/Classic TT is coming up soon and i really need to be out on the bike by next month.....

With a lack of crimp tools and connectors right now i am struggling to make my own just yet.

Cop definitely working passed tick over.

179kg wet with side stand still on.

Ready for the off.

Coming back in. Bike is without question becoming competitive now

Not sure heat is the issue as I suggest the engine runs better hot and on the boil.

I also notice a rough idle and feel a need to maybe jet carbs? Needs doing anyway.

But means dyno runs also really and if I even put fuel in bike, I get a war from the misses.

Maybe am way off, but would the timing want looking at if a more positive spark comes quicker to the mix?

The measured voltage difference might be of interest. A full test from standard lead battery to lithium might have come in handy.

The bike will still pull away from a standard 600 on command so the coils don't seem to affect riding at pace.

Also thought the lack of fuel pump Might cause isues, But proved here pump or not, is no difference. There is certainly no lack of fuel up top end, plenty of power on offer there.

So I'm back to where I was when I was a courier many moons ago covering 10000s of miles.

Ride bike hard until i brake it. Which is really hard to do on my Vfrs as they just keep on going, until r/r melts anyway.

are they not held in place with allen bolts?

just carry allen key, small price to pay for secure parking.............

and if after a year they're buggered, buy a new set

Ye, that sounds better.. lol

Move...

get a garage...

or..

remove mirrors..

you look over your shoulder anyway before you maneuver dont you?

No idea on mileage as i have removed the speedo. With 2 track days and a few afternoons motoring around the isle of man i guess 2-3 hundred miles?

No idea on spark plugs as i have not yet have a problem with them... might pop one out later in the week to have a peek if you think its worth it.?..

Have moved on to playing more with the handling, as i know my bike is not yet as good as my last 3rd gen build in terms of feedback and handling in the heat of battle.

I guess right now i have to look at the 929 shock conversion i have... questionable at the least. Altho im assured with Ohlins you should be able to dial anything out?... will see....

All my COP's are running perfect. well they feel and run well with no problems.

Road riding all day or/and race/track time all day long. Perfect throttle response!

In the 4th gen motor that is..Using gsxr1000 8th gen COPs and blade connectors, which are all the same fitting connectors...

YAY.. Old coils gone!!!!

So long as there is plenty of fluid in your res to cover the little hole in operation you should be ok...

i removed the fluid res from handle bar with a new small plate on top yoke bolt and a new pipe to connect. Race style...

Mind you, also using a cbr radial caliper for the now 929/954 forks....