douglasthecook

Looks good!!! What type of rear sets are those, and where did you get them?

My link

Anyone over there who may help with any knowledge of the company? Any VFRD'ers with experience with them?

They are located a little more than an hour from where I lie, and they have pretty good customer service. I talked to one of the factory reps at the InterMot show n cologne this past November about getting a custom set of rear sets, and they said no poblem, just call for an appointment, and they'll see what they can do. They have pretty high quality stuff. As far as clip-ons are concerned, I got mine from www.oncycles.com. I think that they were made for a Hayabusa, but they fit really well. As far as the steering geometery goe, I have CBR 954 forks with the gull wing top triple clamp. Yes, the forks are shorter, and will quicken up the steering quite a bit. I hve had my VFR to 165 mph (indicated, not accurate) on the track, and did not have any high speed stability issues. The mod is definitely well worth it in my opinion. There are so many different ways to solve the few issues that come up, such as clip-ons, that you can almost do anything that your pocketbook will allow!!!

Ok, so with an aftermarket air filter such as K&N, or a UNI Filter, a full aftermarket exhaust (Headers, and cannister) and a jet kit, what is the approximate horsepower gain over stock? I have all 3, just haven't installed them yet, as I'm looking at other mods aswell. I'm guessing 5-8 horsepower over stock, but again, that's just a guess.

:lurk:

You know what I'm looking for, and what's in the works...

Ok, so with an aftermarket air filter such as K&N, or a UNI Filter, a full aftermarket exhaust (Headers, and cannister) and a jet kit, what is the approximate horsepower gain over stock? I have all 3, just haven't installed them yet, as I'm looking at other mods aswell. I'm guessing 5-8 horsepower over stock, but again, that's just a guess.

I was going to pick up a new gearshift pedal as mine got a bit beaten up.. These aren't really specific to a bike are they? I am not spending the 60 bucks for the OEM one and I was thinking about removing it for the size and then running over to cyclegear to see if they have on.. Anyone else have any experience with this?

Stupid question.

Thanks

As far as I know, they are brand specific. A Yamaha pedal won't fit on a Suzuki ( feel free to substitute brands), as the splines are different in the spacing of theridges where the pedal mounts. You might want to try Dennis Kirk for a replacement.

Those look really cool!!! Streamlined and functional!!! I like the color, and adjust-ability, plus with the turn signals up so high, it should make it easier for the cagers to see you in their rear view mirrors. You said that you weren't sure about blinking, or steady on. If you have room, why not put the clear LED's below some orange LED's. The orange ones could be used for turn signals. I'm terrible with electronics, so I'm not sure how that could be managed. I'd have it set so that the white/clear LED's would go off when the ornage turn signals came on, hopefully increasing visibility. How difficult would it to make the support arms in an airfoil shape?

Thanks for the comment. I made the mirrors small, but replaced the flat mirrors with convex glass for a better field of view. I have the bar ends as turns, and think that I will leave the mirror's amber LEDs at constantly on for better cage visibility. The arms were machined out of 6061. I could get a bigger piece and shape them using radius cutters or I could just get a piece of round. Their profile is small enough that I don't worry about turbulence. neither from the mirror or the mount. I read about motorcycle aerodynamics one time. Stated was that a brick with one end rounded would be more aerodynamic trailing the smooth than leading the airflow, all based on the turbulence. I am going to run some tests for vibrations and have some hair brained idea to use water as the dampening element. If I get that far I will show it.

I was thinking of an airfoil type design more for aesthetics than for any aerodynamic properties that might be gained. How visible are the bar end signals, they're pretty cool, but again, I'm not so good with running wires and getting things like that to work. I have regular delrin type bar ends, but I do track days on my VFR, so it's more of a protective thing, but I do like that idea as well.

Those look really cool!!! Streamlined and functional!!! I like the color, and adjust-ability, plus with the turn signals up so high, it should make it easier for the cagers to see you in their rear view mirrors. You said that you weren't sure about blinking, or steady on. If you have room, why not put the clear LED's below some orange LED's. The orange ones could be used for turn signals. I'm terrible with electronics, so I'm not sure how that could be managed. I'd have it set so that the white/clear LED's would go off when the ornage turn signals came on, hopefully increasing visibility. How difficult would it to make the support arms in an airfoil shape?

What year and model did your shifter arm come from?

RC51; all years are the same. I had to space the rearsets out about 20mm for linkage clearance.

Cool, thanks. If my other option doesn't work, I'll be getting one of those...

A few more mods: CBR1000RR radial front brakes via custom mounts, RC51 clip ons, and RC51 footpeg assemblies. Just got it back together tonight so I haven't ridden it yet but did butt test it in the garage. :rolleyes: The pegs are about in the same location but IMO look better/more modern and replace damaged/rusted stockers. I could have re-installed my buell footpegs but after owning an RC51 for the past year, they now feel too low. The altered clipons are closer to me and have a better angle. The brakes stopped it when I pushed it outside. :wheel:

The footpeg hangers are about 1 to 1.5mm off in bolt spacing but slightly enlarging the holes of the RC units with the next size drill bit did the trick. The rubber footpegs are aftermarket as the stock RC pegs are bare metal. Gear change assembly went on easily; I only had to space the entire mount out about 20mm for the shift rod to clear the frame spar. NOTE: with a shorter rod you could easily go to GP shift if you prefer.

What year and model did your shifter arm come from? I ordered one for/from a CBR900RR, and it doesn't give me a big enough offset to clear the water pump. This is my biggest issue right now for my rear sets. On another note, I was able to get the wiring harness from the CBR1000RR Gauges spliced in, now I just need to get the gauges back in the mail, and get a battery and that should be that for the gauges.

Well, I checked last night by holding a 4th gen right side bracket against my F4i's bracket - the F4i has a smaller spacing. I didn't measure the exact difference, but it's enough that simply drilling out the holes wouldn't do the trick(I wouldn't want to, that is). They're off by at least 10mm - if the 4th gen spacing is 79mm, then the F4i is closer to 69.

Cool, thanks for checking!!! I won't be able to use them, but someone else may need that data!

Doug, FM and I were talking about the footpegs only, not the entire footrest/bracket. That does give me an idea though, I can measure my F4i bracket for you and see if it will work on the 4th gen. I'll let you know later tonight(if I forget, PM me!)

I checked once with an ebay vendor if F4i rearsets would work with the 6gen and they said no (off by several mm). Don't know if they would fit the 4gen.

I do know that R-1 rear sets will fit, although they're a little long on the left side, as they rub against the swing arm. I'm working with a vendor to see of he has shorted mid-plates to install instead. If not, I have 3 possible solutions. Being that my VFR is becoming more and more of a track monster, adjustable rear sets are really something that I could use. FWIW the spacing on the 4th Gen mount bolts is 79mm, so any that have a 79mm spacing will be a start in the right direction. I really wanted to fit RC-51 rear sets, but they're spacing was too narrow if I remember right.

Doug: The koso sensor threads into the thermostat housing. It replaces the stock unit. Hope you have small hands! :biggrin: The sensor on the rad is the fan switch. Best to leave that alone if you want a fully functioning cooling system! :cool:

Seb: Yes, those are aftermarket F4i footpegs (HK knockoffs). They bolt right onto the RC hangers. Years ago, I tried them on my first 4gen as the original metal pegs were slippery plus I wanted to try reducing vibrations with a rubber peg. To get them to fit I needed to grind down the peg's mounting width a slight tad (technical term) to fit the narrower vfr hanger assemblies; no changes needed to pins or springs, etc.

Thanks for the location of the sensor! I really didn't know where to put it looking at what I thought was the temp sending unit. Glad I asked before I ordered a different part, and started taking stuff completely part.

As far as rear sets go, I'm currently experimenting with some R-1 rear sets. The bolt pattern is the same, although they are a little long, and will impact the swing arm with out any spacers installed. There are a few different work-arounds that I'm toying with right now, just gotta decide which direction that I want to go in. I might also look at F4i rear sets, as I didn't know those would fit...

Doug(in TX), those footpegs look exactly like my oem F4i footpegs - with the threaded boss for the feeler and all!

Doug(in Germany) - I think KOSO wants that sensor mounted in one of your coolant pipes, but I don't know the specifics. Have you tried doing a google search to see how others have done it?

A google search...DUH!!! I don't know why I didn't think of that. I'll do that, google is my friend, and I use it alot, not sure why I didn't think of it for this application. I think I was shocked at the tiny little sensor that I got in the mail, that it short circuited my logic circuits. Thanks for bringing me back to the real world, and I'll be hitting up google shortly!!!

Gazman, your 3gen streetfighter is MAGNIFICO! :biggrin: Did the RX2 tachometer function not work properly? That was the only thing the RX1 didn't solved or I would have kept it. My 4gen coolant sensor didn't work correctly with the cbr gauge but the KOSO sensor did so I'm using that one. A cbr temperature sensor might bolt onto the vfr thermostat but I don't know that for a fact and am just guessing. You will also need a speedohealer version 4 (latest) to calibrate the speedometer correctly.

Ok, so I finally got the KOSO Sensor in the mail yesterday, opened up the package, and was quite surprised to see how small it was. Wasn't exactly what I was thinking it was going to be. I thought it would replace the sensor on the aft, left side of the radiator. I'm not sure where this thing goes, can you guys help me out, and point me in the right direction, as I really don't see where this smaller sensor goes. Thanks!!!

Any progress???

How do you like the Vaypor gauges? Were they hard to wire in and get working? There were a few here that tried to install the Koso gauges(I was also going to attempt this), but went with CBR 1000RR Gauges instead.

I have an additional CBR 600RR Tank cover available if you want/need it. Free other than postage....

That's handy Doug! might take you up on that offer! Cheers! :beer:

No prob!!! It has a tab or two missing, as I got it from a friend who dropped his CBR and I was going to use it to practice my painting skills, or lack thereof on, however I don't need it now as I decided to buy a new tank and fairings instead...btw, this one is black, just in case you were wondering...

The aluminum tank + cover idea is one that I have also spent time thinking about. The part I get hung up on, is that I like to hang off my bikes, and that means the tank has to support my weight at times. I would build the actual tank in a way that allows it to support the outer cover when I jam my knee against it and hang off into a turn.

Also, unless you're thinking that you want bodywork, I'm pretty sure that those companies will sell you the tank cover only. I was able to buy the Duc 1098 tail for my 86 project without too much trouble. It was especially cheap, because I had them send it unpainted! :blink:

Thanks Seb,

I've just bought a cheap scuffed cbr600rr 06 tank cover to measure/cutup. Looks like it could save a bit of work fabricating a 'pretty' ali tank. As you say it would need to braced to allow for some chimpanzee action.

I have an additional CBR 600RR Tank cover available if you want/need it. Free other than postage....

What you're doing is incredible!!! And here I was all stressed out about trying to make my RC-51 tail section a bolt-on mod(which it is btw...). Anyway, awesome work you're doing, and I'm really digging the engineering parts especially, and how you're coming up with fixes!!!

Thanks Dude.. Really apreciate the encouragement! some of this design is stressing me out too... wish I was an engineer! :biggrin:

Well...you know what they say about necessity and all that. However whay I did, and definitely what you're doing isn't necessity, but the constant presence of tinkeritis. I just can't leave good enough along, although I'm nowhere near this brave!!! Keep it up, and have a patent laywer on speed dial!!!

What you're doing is incredible!!! And here I was all stressed out about trying to make my RC-51 tail section a bolt-on mod(which it is btw...). Anyway, awesome work you're doing, and I'm really digging the engineering parts especially, and how you're coming up with fixes!!!

Dood!!! Fire that pit crew, or swap with Colin Edwards, I hear he's open to that kind of stuff. Not only did you say you pulled a high-side ala Lorenzo, you also walked away, ala Lorenzo, so there may be something there new R-1 perhaps in your future??? Glad to hear that you're ok, all goofiness aside, take time with the healing, and make sure that you're back to 100% before you start again, or we'll have to start calling you John Hopkins the 2nd....

Very cool indeed!!! Perhaps no license for a few weeks may be a good thing after all!!! I know when I start a project such as this, it becomes all consuming, where that's all I can think about, and anything else is just a distraction. When I installed my RC-51 tail section/subframe, I used all the RC parts, no VFR under seat/undertail/fender, whatever it is being called these days (it's hard for me to keep up on the lingo sometimes). For my tail swap project, all I had to do was fab up a few aluminum extensions, and from there it was a bolt on mod. I wanted to keep it bolt-on, no cutting or welding, just in case I didn't like it and wanted to go back to stock, however I do like it. Saved me 15 pounds of weight out back!!! Plus it looks really sharp in my opinion!!! Your front fairing appears to be Carbon, please, please leave it naked, it would be a shame to cover it up!!!

Your project sounds very promising and interesting, please keep us posted on how she goes together!!!

Try OnCycles.com I got mine from CycleCat, but that company is in the middle of a re-org. You can still get their products from OnCycles, good customer service and good products as well. I believe I got mine were for a suzuki Hayabusa. Hope that helps. You can always tell them what types of front front forks that you have and how much rise you want, and they can even make a combined/custom kit for you, as that's what they did for me. Hope that helps.

. It has been said that the mid 90's Aprilia's have the same distance between mounting points for their rear sets. If that isn't the case, I may buy some Sato's and just have new mount plate made up that matches the VFR's dimensions. Yours are very clean, very nice!!!

What Priller model? My local dealer may have a second hand on the floor so I can go out and measure...

You would have to ask that, as I really can't remember right now. All I can remember right now is that the distance between the center of the bolts is 78mm. I want to say the RSV but could be wrong...