tsmitty

I pulled the trigger on the YZF pump. Thanks for your help looking Captain.

I would love to talk Jay into riding the bike to Vintage Days at Mid Ohio this year. She's not a show piece but she aint no slouch. 😉

1 hour ago, bmart said:

Still asking about the Chinese ones. 

Yes it was a 30 dollar made in china sold in US and it still took a month to get here. I thought...how can china fuck up a fuel pump! 

Well I'll be looking while Jay decides how he wants to go, I did encourage a new mitsubishi or D&L as the Captain mentioned as an option.

I would love to have some lucky fucker to just get on her and go for a day or two without a chase vehicle... 

But, on a positive note, slowly the bike is getting sorted out as best I can, it only has about 25 or so miles sense her rebirth last fall, unfortunately I can only account for about a mile of that. 

Thanks again Captain, I spent some time this morning web shopping and will see what Jay wants to do, he got the cash, my budget was blown on that tail cowl from sixdog, hell I'm selling shit off no-a-days! haha Don't regret buying that tail cowl one bit though...that piece is so pretty!

I saw some new Mitsubishi pumps you mentioned as well...it wouldn't hurt me if Jay wanted to go that route too...

8 hours ago, bmart said:

You put a Chinese $10 one in it? 

I did...😔

8 hours ago, Captain 80s said:

I look for used genuine Mitsubishi pumps of the 18-5529 style on eBay.

Thanks, I'll do that. Thanks!

So my son Jay calls me up and says "the bikes dead, it acted like it was out of gas so I turned on the pump switch and that helped for a while then it ran out of fuel, dead"! Well the repair vehicle (me) with the I'll fitting, extremely loud back up pump to the rescue with success! What frustrates me is, the flipping thing was brand new, not 10 miles on it!

Is there a distributer that carries decent fuel pumps or am I rolling the dice on ebay again??

Thanks...

On 4/21/2024 at 3:34 AM, keny said:

Other headlight faster is broken 

keny, I don't think my US model came with the nuts installed on those posts from the factory. I never used the nuts on those two spots regardless. 

Awesome Dude, it looks good! 

If I could operate a spray can, I would go back to white.

Save your money, the fronts are probably close to the same condition.

https://vintagemotorcycledays.com

8 hours ago, Dutchy said:

4 years ago I found a prisine VF500F2 tank amongst a see of Italian parts... €150 on day 1, bought it for €50 on day 3.....

That is so cool, hope I have the same luck;

I'm going to try to make this years AMA Vintage Motorcycle Days here in Ohio at Mid Ohio Sports Car Course, one of the last times I was at that track was some 30-35 years ago...I was riding the very same bike I'm bringing back from the dead now. I'll have to 4-wheel it this time though.

Those old Benelli valve springs are so cool! Thanks for the close up... Break a spring there and it curtains.

That's so awesome keny! 

9 hours ago, Lorne said:

Sadly, no, sold it in early '97 after 4 years & 80,000 km. Would love to have been able to keep it, though.

My son found mine 15 or so years after I sold it... There's still hope! 

The painted wheel looks awesome keny! I would love to put my wheels back to white, but I don't do very well with a spray can. I looks like using paint stripper is the way to go. Nice job!

Nice pic Lorne, framed up perfectly.

19 hours ago, Captain 80s said:

I was even planning on making some plastic "donuts" to go around the mounts on the back side for additional strength.

The stuff won't adhere to any epoxy. But still a great idea.

This is what I guess would be plan 1... 

This is what I was thinking; I have some ABS sheet. ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BJDKZWDF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 )

Making a new counterbore bottom, using the cloth as double sided sticky, then filling the back with more sandwiched abs and that plastic repair powder. Cant remember the name right now...Plastex or something.

The con's of this would be loss of counterbore depth. The "shoulder screws" would need spacers to make up for the thickness change so the pretty infill still floats... 🙂

The pro's are top ascetics around the screw (hope) new pliable plastic to float around that shoulder screw.

Whats your thoughts?

Yes! on the same track!

I'll talk later with you about it.

Cap. have you played around with that piece of fabric I sent you? the reason I asked is one of your in-fills; the left lower mount screw well is disintegrating at the bottom. Both the top and bottom screw locations have been epoxied. Well I'm thinking of that cloth material, it bonds so well to that abs plastic. I'll get some pics tomorrow, I know my description is pretty weak. 

Too cold in the garage to spray the clear...and waiting for the UPS dude...

12 minutes ago, Cogswell said:

either the 8 VTEC valves are working, or they're not.

I personally would explore mechanically jamming that "locking pin" so you don't have to play with the electronics, thats if the system won't throw an error code.

I use to love packing her up every year for, at least, 1 week camping trip and several weekend excersions

; loved the bikes torque in the mountains, and the sound the little bitch made accelerating under a load. I had one of the first "general public" Kerker White Tip exhaust (I rememberer calling those guys once or twice for status reports; you racers took priority) Of course I had a cruise control on the bike...that was fun shit! When bike to bike communications came out; that was a game changer for my friend Ace and I. 

This Yosh. tail piece was off one of Ace's bikes when I finely retired the Kerker can

Old dude rambling...

25 minutes ago, Captain 80s said:

I typically put my fan switches on the left so I can "work the controls" in flight.

I never thought of that. haha 

The plug on the fuse box is where I originally had the fan switch back in 87, it was still there and wired in when the bike came back home. I found out real quick how fast the bike heats up in summer construction.

I'm still waiting on terminals come in for the two harness sets.  

Any thoughts about this? 

So my thoughts for location for the toggle switches.

from the cockpit...switches are hidden but with the spring loaded safety covers, the two switches can easily be found (with cold weather gloves on), manipulated and closing the cover turns the switch off. The switch safety cover can be seen from the rider if the switch is on and i'm hoping will be somewhat illuminated at night. Who knows...if it too rude looking from the parking lot, it can all come off.

I'm waiting for the paint to dry on the switch plate and it may get a clear along with my home made lower cowl stays. 

The black wheel paint says 6 days to cure. Do I have to wait until then to apply that 2x clear? 

1 hour ago, Captain 80s said:

They are not terrible, but they also don't just fall off either.   Once you start, all of sudden your VFR looks like this!

Do I have to disturb the rear brake fluid? I'm not out in the garage today, too damn cold. 

1 hour ago, Captain 80s said:

Whatcha got goin on in the last pic?  Fan and Fuel Cut toggles?

Yes, mounted on that 2x1/8 piece you see. Thats the motor mount that will hold it with the red reflector (my lock out tag out system; matching tag on keychain.)

its going on the mount above the oil fill. I'm making the wiring to plug into and out of the stock harness so there is no splicing. Here is the harness for the fan; it plugs into the radiator fan temp. switch.

I'm doing much the same for the fuel relay using in and out plugs.