WDIV

I volunteer to mod to get rid of spam accounts if that'll help. I know Seb usually does it. I just know that when I get to work (5a EST) and hop on here, I always see the spam and start reporting lol. I'm not sure how much it'd help but I'd be willing to do that easy peasy. I only just got here a few months ago but this place has been invaluable to helping me get my new-to-me VFR sorted out.

What would make it doable though? A TB doesn't sound like a lot in terms of today's storage even if moving that between servers would be a chore.

I hope so

Chain and sprockets are in good condition but the feeling was definitely not chain/sprockets. I've read way too many oddball threads pointing to a lean cruise situation thanks to Honda's mapping so of course I want to change as many things as I can so I can never figure out the issue 🤣 (joking, of course). That said, I'd never felt the surging until I threw these new pipes on so... I ordered a PC6 hoping to richen the mix up a bit and help and two days into the PC being installed and the bike is smoother overall. Very interesting. I know in the car that I own, adding something as simple as headers can cause it to run lean and a tune is not optional but now i"m wondering if I'm not in the same boat with the VFR.

Since the new fan motor went in... the bike has seemed like it's pretty normal on temps! It's been kicking on with no weird fuse pops for no reason! Huzzah! That said... now that I've been commuting in warmer weather, I found a new thing it likes to do lol. So when cruising between 3-5k rpm, sometimes it feels like I cut the throttle and then roll it back on. Over a second or two. It's really weird. I've been looking online for what might cause this "surging" that most people seem to call it so... new spark plugs ordered, new fuel filter ordered, and I need to take the time to figure out what the previous owner did besides delete the snorkel mod and leave a bunch of capped/tapped off vacuum looking lines. *facepalm* All of that said, I still really like this bike 🤣

New fan went in and I ran the normal test in the driveway. Thermostat opens at 176, fan kicks on once the temp rises again to 190. She spun up perfectly and everything seems normal. I'll do this every day this week and get back to commuting next week. We'll see if the fuse pops. If it doesn't, I'll assume this mystery has been solved. If it does, I'm going to wire the hot side to it's own circuit outside of the fuse box and skip the wiring harness altogether. Not ideal but it's something.

I am not 100% confident of that so... new fan will FINALLY be here on Tuesday. I had 4 good days of riding before it popped again so I'm really hoping the fan motor has a short in it or something. I guess we'll see after I swap it. This has been an ordeal. On the progress size, the relay is in place for the volt meter now and working swimmingly. A small win is a win!

I mean... you're not wrong 🤣

It might be your lucky day. I'm not sure if you've seen the most recent slew of ... um... "help" available on the forums but it seems we have some new members that are dead set on making sure you can get your printer hooked up to print your flight tickets 🤣

After being on here for a couple of months, I noticed some 6th gens had clear turn signals and I LOVE the look over the amber turn signals. So much that I bought a used tail light off of ebay to throw onto the bike. What I didn't see on here (initially) is what to do about the different connector on the newer tails. So if you're looking to update, you'll definitely need to order "Sumitomo part number 6189-0890" aka Sumitomo HX .040 - .090 Connector and Terminals (cycleterminal.com) from cycle terminal dot com. Step 1: order the newer style tail light and clean it up. I just used a random orbital buffer wtih some swirl and scratch remover to clean the light up. You can see buffed versus unbuffed below. Step 2: Realize the new taillights have different turn signal connectors and order the ones linked above. Step 3: Get your connector kit in the mail Step 7: The old connector can be taken apart with a connector pin removal tool. I tried to take a picture of the pin catch below. You just need to insert the pin tool from the same side the wires enter the connector. I used a screw driver to push the pins out while I had the pin remover inserted. Step 11: Add the new connector. Once you've gotten the new pins crimped on, make sure to press them into the connector until they click. That'll guarantee they won't just fall out. The little plastic piece that goes on the front of the connector to align the pins is pretty intuitive. STEP 99: Verify the lights are working and enjoy! I should have taken video instead of trying to take a pic while the lights were flashing but meh. EDIT: This was the original thread that helped me find the connector part. This was a referenced thread in there to a much more complicated way to do this.

I'm very seriously thinking about running a fresh cable over just to see if that doesn't mitigate the issue. I also ordered a used harness off of ebay to pull the fuse box from as a just in case back to every crazy idea that's popped in my head about this.

Did this. Shook the ever living snot out of the handlebars/headstock. Nothing. UGH. Rolled the bike into the driveway to run it until the thermostat opened and then the fan kicked on. 175 for the thermostat (the temps started dropping which I expected until all the coolant heats up and then at 180 like 5 minutes later... fan kicked on no big deal. I hopped on and started having a spastic fit on the bike to shake everything and hopefully move something to cause something and... nothing. Double UGH.

Thanks guys, I'll give that a shot this week when I get a chance (sundays are never good).

I just did the visual inspection and shook the piss out of my headstock (with the key on and a jumper to ground on the thermistor plug) trying to get it to pop. I guess next is to throw the volt meter on and let that watch it for me.

This is what I'm afraid of. I just took the bike out, pulled over at 220 and sure enough, popped. Threw another one in, fan immediately kicks on. I'm thinking a short in the wire. Boooo. Oh, I absolutely do. Good catch! Thank you! Coolanol it is!

"Red Line 80205 Engine Coolant Additive Supercool with Waterwetter" Allegedly great for bikes. Recommended in a few places. 🙂 So far it's been random. The only additional wiring the PO installed was a volt meter that was run to the fuse box but I'm not sure how he HAD it setup because in the time I've been screwing around with swapping fuses... it's fallen out. I'm kind of hoping what you might be thinking. That wire wasn't solidly in place and may have cause the fuse to pop. Because of that though (and the wire falling out), I've decided to use a relay running off of the headlights to run the voltmeter. I doubt the voltmeter could draw enough excess voltage to cause it to pop but who knows. Looks clear to me Spinning as freely as she did before I removed her and put her back. 🙂 If it wasn't pouring outside, I'd try cycling the bike a few times... which means... 100 mile round trip jaunt tomorrow to see if everything is alright? lol

Yup, yellow 20A mini fuse, not to be confused with microfuses... learned that lesson already lol EDIT: The fuses I put in place for the first two pops were two fuses that came with the bike. They could have been 20 years old and on teh verge of dying anyways. I have thought of this as a possibility but I've only heard age being an issue with home fuses, not with car/bike fuses.

On my list for tomorrow 🤘 Like the stator, the new fresh motor can be a future backup if worse comes to worst

I've got coolant in my Amazon cart and I'm going to replace the coolant also for piece of mind (following the manual, of course) I hope the fan isn't really failing but after popping two fuses (but absolutely fine on the two rides since??) I can't really figure out what's causing it shy of tearing into the wiring harness and going through that nightmare. RRs is upgraded. Stator is putting out the correct amount of juice for now. The Battery is new. The fairings are new chinese oem copies. Clutch cover is a seb piece. There just aren't a lot of reason for a fan fuse to pop.

I was hoping to do just this but everything I read says the RC51 fan is useful in stop and go for a handful of degrees. An override switch is easy and just an extra grounding path which sounds good to me as a backup in case the thermistor ever does fail. A second fan you say? Hmmm. Honestly, if there was a front mounted radiator that fit well and could do the job, I'd be all over that. I'll start digging.

Welp. Time to burn more money 🤪

So that's exactly where I'm at. The fan spins freely. Nothing is touching it and everything is smooth. Tested the thermo switch (before I swapped the fuse, hilariously) since that's the first thing everyone recommends. When the fan kicked on I laughed a bit cus I started riding the bike in winter and never had issues with heat so the fan never needed to turn on. Holy balls is it loud lol. If the motor has an internal short... my fear... it'll be another 240 for an oem motor bleh

Rad fan fuse popped and I don't know why. Got the bike to 234 in traffic trying to get gas and just headed home. Replaced the fuse and it popped the next day. I'm pretty sure replacing the fuse was the first time the fan has been on since I got the bike which doesn't make me feel better about the previous owner's work... replaced the fuse a second time and rode it to work and back today without issue. Have 5 spare fuses on me just in case. I took the fairings of and traced the obvious parts of the fan circuit wires and didn't see anything suspicious like nicks in the wiring or obviously loose connections. This bike is as much fun in the garage on stands as it is on the road LOL. Cheap exhaust for the temporary win. It's hard to find slipons that aren't ebay/amazon. I picked the wrong time to get a bike that seems to have little aftermarket support. Thanks for coming to my TED talk 😛

Warmed up the bike, tested at 5k RPM and 60v+ are being out put which is great. Sitting at idle, 20v steady between all three legs. I got zeros at first because I had my multimeter set at DC cus I'm a dummie but good to go on AC. Thank you all! (also, went ahead and orderd an OEM stator/gasket as a just in case for the future)

This doesn't instill confidence but it is motivating to make sure everything is squared away first. Thanks!