vic28222

PS. I am most interested in what pad is best for the rear on a 5th Gen. I like OEM pads on the front but my rear brake has always felt a bit on the weak side.

What pads do you recommend Hispanic Slammer? OEM, EBC, etc.

I am about to replace my rear pads. Any recommendations on pads? OEM, EBC HH Sintered, Galfer, others? I would like to get a little more bite on the rear than I get with OEM pads but I do not want to alter it enough to cause a problem nor do I want to put in pads that damage rotors.

I am seriously considering going with EBC HH Sintered. Please let me know if that is a good or poor choice.

Thanks,

Vic

I put Buell pegs on my '98 over a year ago. They dropped the peg height a full inch. I had to do some minor grinding but, as I recall, it took less than an hour to install both sides. Inexpensive, too. I adjusted the shift lever and heated and bent the brake pedal. I've been very happy with the result.

You can save yourself $10 by getting the pegs as a package set #N0006.1AD. Also, go to your local machine shop and get a bronze valve guide. There is a common size that will adapt the peg to the bike. It will fit into the peg by heating the peg in the oven and putting the bushing in the freezer for a couple hours. I forget the size of the guide, just take the peg and pin with you, one guide cut in half will work. I did end up slightly enlarging the center of the guide. The easiest way to do this is to put the drill bit in a bench vise and chuck the guide in the drill motor, before you cut it. If you try to do it the normal way, you'll ruin the guide trying to hold it.

I believe I paid $32.00 plus tax for the pair at the local HD dealer. I did not have to use an insert bushing. Works great without it.

If you use the part number N0006.1AD at the HD, you get the pair together for $25.00. The valve guide gives a nice fit with no modes to the bike, using the stock pin.

The N0006.1AD package is for the XB9R and XB12R. While they work, they require some grinding to fit. One person said the Ulysses pegs fit without any grinding. Can anyone confirm this and give me the part number? It would be great if they offer the pegs as a pair at a reduced price as well.

When you say you heated and bent the brake pedal, please tell me how you did that. I have a propane torch but am not sure how hot to get the shaft, where to apply the heat, etc. I would hate to weaken the pedal and have it fail when I need it most.

Thanks,

Vic

This weekend i decided to put on my new foot pegs i bought a month ago(procrastinator). I also had my Corbin seat "redone" by someone who reforms seats for the crew at the ST-1300 site www.st-owners.com. Putting on the foot pegs was a breeze, to make them solid just use the washer that is normally on the outside of the OEM pegs and put them between the new pegs and the bracket, they are solid after that, not wobbly at all.

So when it came to adjusting the brake and shifter, the shifter was no problem, the brake, a bit more of a problem. I took off the adjusting nut to get more threads. I went for a ride today to test it out and to scrub in my new D220 rear. During the ride the rear felt like i was locking it up sometimes, a bit unnerving. When i got home, the rear brake rotor was HOT, and very difficult to turn. It was fine when cooled down.

I believe that the extreme adjusting of the pedal is what did it. I had the screw turned all the way in, and there was no delay before the cylinder was engaging, and i backed it off a little and it "seemed" the wheel turned easier. Has anyone run into this?

I am going to heat and bend the pedal to get it where i want and not turn the adjuster all the way, i want some slack.

The good news is that the seat and pedal combo has done the trick of eliminating "Butt Burn", something long legged skinny thigh people deal with on M/C. The seat reforming entailed of sending it to Fla, along with pictures of you sitting on the bike.

Basically he dishes out the seat area and builds up the thigh area. PM me if anyone would like to get a hold of him.

So, if I am reading this right, the Uly foot pegs can be installed without any grinding and did not require adding a bushing due to the holes in the pegs being larger than the VFR pin. Is that correct? If so, does anyone know the part # for a pair of Uly pegs? Apparently most people go with the XB12R or XB9R pegs (part # N0006.1AD which is a pair of pegs for about $26 + tax) but the pegs have to be ground and the hole in the pegs is larger than the VFR pin and a bushing has to be added to take up the slack. The less "rigging" the better in my mind.

Also, I am NOT a metalurgist. Please tell me how to go about heating and bending the brake pedal. I don't want to weaken it and have it fail when I need it most. I do have a propane torch. I just don't know how hot to get it before trying to bend it, etc.

I am an older rider (63 yo) and during the summer I often take long trips, sometimes coast to coast, and lowering the pegs on my 99 VFR should help my knees a lot on long trips. I have a Sargent seat, which I like a lot, but you sit lower "into" it which made the seat/peg distance even less than stock and takes a toll on my knees. I find I have to stand up and do other calisthentics (sp) from time to time while riding just to get circulation back into my knees. Has this conversion proven to be a good one for those of you who have made it? Any downsides to making it?

Vic

I am considering swapping my footpegs on my 99 VFR out for some Buell pegs but have a couple of questions:

1. Which Buell Pegs fit best? (From the reading I have done I think the Buell Ulysses pegs are the right ones to get but I am not "sure" so I thought I would ask. One of the listers who said he used the Uly pegs did not have to grind them to fit whereas one who used the XB9R pegs did. Which ones fit best

2. Did anyone ever come up with a brake pedal and brake light switch modification that lowered the pedal enough to work with the Buell pegs without having to "jury rig" anything?

3. How many of you who changed over to the Buell pegs have stayed with the mod? (ie. did you like the difference enough to stay with the change?)

4. Are the metal pegs without rubber like the OEM pegs comfortable? How much more vibration do you feel if any due to not having rubber pads on top?

Thanks,

Vic