Jump to content

lazyfish

Members
  • Posts

    7
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

lazyfish last won the day on December 7 2021

lazyfish had the most liked content!

Profile Information

  • Location
    Hong Kong
  • In My Garage:
    Honda VFR800F, Honda NC750X DCT, Kymco Racing King 180

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

lazyfish's Achievements

Rookie

Rookie (2/14)

  • Dedicated Rare
  • Reacting Well Rare
  • One Month Later
  • Week One Done
  • First Post

Recent Badges

5

Reputation

  1. Thanks everybody for the replies. I've finally found a shop that could straighten out my rotors. They are currently about 4.1mm thick so they still have some life left in them. At 30USD per rotor this seems to be the most cost effective option. This was in fact an issue. It still had tires from 2016 which were completely bald and dried out. After installing a fresh set of Bridgestone S22s it handles like a dream. Yesterday I took the bike up to 200km/h and there was no abnormal vibration. Besides the braking vibration stopping power is normal. After the holidays I'll send off the brake rotors and also the right fairing which I cracked because I'm an idiot. All in all really glad I could save this amazing bike from rotting to death.
  2. I already cleaned the rotors as one of the first things I did to the bike but to no avail. The vibration happens at any speed, but is most noticeable when coming to a stop from high speeds. I actually had a stuck piston on another bike of mine, but this feels completely different.
  3. I actually found a local shop that claims they could repair brake rotors. But they seem to be more focused on bringing severely damaged rotors back into working condition, rather than fine tuning them to get rid of a vibration. Although the bike 'only' has 10k miles on it, it seems it had quite a rough life and was also used on the track. So I don't think there's that much life left in the original rotors, especially after having them rotated. I guess this could be compared to that local rotor factory quality wise. They would also produce them with 5mm thickness, and incorporate the same floating design as the original one. Coming in at 170USD for a set, that fits right in the 150-200USD price bracket. Sound like the best (cheapest 😁)option so far. Thanks everybody for the replies.
  4. So last month I bought a 2014 VFR800F that had been sitting for 2 years. After giving it some love it feels pretty fresh again, but now I'm stuck on the last issue. What me and my mechanic initially thought would be solved with new front wheel bearings (which indeed were shot), turns out to be both front brake rotors. One of them is severely out of shape, and the other one isn't exactly straight either. Now I'm looking to replace both brake rotors and a quick search reveals: 300USD for one rotor! Are they made out of diamonds or is it just good old company greed? That's just insane. I'd rather go for second hand ones with decent life left in them, but turns out there are none. Just found one set for a non-ABS bike, which uses a different rotor. Our brake rotors not shared with any other bike, making it basically impossible to find second hand rotors, since there are so few 8th gens around. One alternative I found was EBC, but they're still 210USD, and there are zero reviews to be found. That especially worries me because they claim left and right rotors can be used interchangeably, while Honda maintains different part numbers for the left and right rotor. A local motorcycle brake rotor factory claims they can manufacture a 1:1 copy if I send my brake rotors to them. The price they quote is much cheaper than originals or EBC, only 85USD per rotor. But I'm not sure/convinced their production processes and materials used are at a level comparable to EBC or the original rotors. Am I missing out on anything here? Is there some cheap (magic?) fix I could do to fix the braking vibration? Anyone has a lead on a used set of front rotors for the ABS version VFR800F? I'd rather buy a pair of original used rotors than having to gamble with EBC or a local factory. P.S. Could anyone confirm the factory thickness of the original rotors? Searching brings up different numbers. Thanks!
  5. Thanks everybody for the responses. I decided to go with a 2014 VFR800F in white with 10k miles on the clock. It had been sitting for 2 years and the owner agreed to let it go for 3200USD. To be honest at this price it seemed like a no-brainer as the alternatives are way more expensive.
  6. Honda bikes are definitely supported and a good amount of them are even produced locally. Just not the VFR1200F... A couple were imported officially but most of them are grey imports from Japan, US and Europe. Except for basic parts such as air filters you're completely on your own. Answers are indeed no, so I guess I should get the VFR then. 😁 I just don't want it to fail in a couple of months and waste 5000USD without getting a good riding season out of the bike. My NC750X has been completely solid without any issues which really has been a breath of fresh air compared to my previous BMW (driveshaft failure) and Yamaha (cylinder scoring).
  7. I am looking to replace my current bike (NC750X DCT) with something a bit more sporty and capable. I really like Honda's DCT system and therefore consider getting a VFR1200F with DCT fitted. Now what's really holding me back is the driveshaft issue that has been subject to the recall. I've looked at several bikes locally but none of them had the recall done. Worse still, there's no way to get the recall taken care of as there's zero support from Honda in my country. Looking at current local second hand prices, having a new driveshaft imported and installed would total the bike in case it would fail. How long could an original driveshaft realistically last? Should I expect that it just fails randomly or is there a pattern to it (for example any obvious wear indicators)? I once had a BMW driveshaft fail on me and it was pretty frighting to completely lose power when doing 100mph with traffic coming up from behind. Now that one could be fixed relatively cheaply but after that the bike never felt right again. I don't want risk the same with the VFR. Alternatively I'm considering the 8th generation VFR800F or Kawasaki Z1000SX (Ninja 1000). I absolutely love the looks of the VFR800F and if it came with DCT I wouldn't even consider the VFR1200F. The Kawasaki is more comfortable but it just feels a bit less well put together which I feel would annoy me over the long run. Would love to hear your input on the driveshaft. Is it worth the gamble or should I just forget about the VFR1200F? Cheers!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.