chris2992

Michelin's are not balance marked. Most people think that the barcode is the mark, but the barcode is placed on the carcas before it is cured in the press.

Seb, their website states that for 140 section tires and down, 1oz, and for 150 section and up 2oz. I used about 3/4oz in the front and 1-3/4 oz in the rear.

Quite honestly, it was completely unintentional. But upon further investigation, it is quite comical, so I'll say it was intensional.

So last night I decided to try and mount a new set of rubbers. So I started and hired the assistance of my wife, it took us about 2 hours to accomplish, but it wasn't too hard. Once I got the hang of it, it only took about 25 minutes per tire. But the real moral to this thread is the dyna beads (found here: http://www.innovativebalancing.com/ ), either the tires were perfect from the get go, or they work. Anywhere from 45-90 there were no vibes in the pegs. My only complaint is that when you roll the wheels, you can here the beads inside the tire, now if you are rolling the whole bike, the chain makes enough noise to cancel it out, but still yet a small complaint. I'd recommend these to anyone, I'll continue to update as I get some wear on the tires.

Sorry that my follow up review has taken so long. I have actually only used the gps on the bike 3 times and haven't taken the time to mount it via the RAM kit that is on my work bench, but just tossed it in the map pouch of my tank bag. So far I really "like" the nuvi. I say like because there are some things that I wish it did and it doesn't. Most of which are covered above. Negatives: -No use of breadcrumbs or similar feature -No ability to plan routes ahead on external software -Only being able to plan a route via 2 waypoints -Low screen brightness under heavy sun light I would buy another for the cost savings over the zumo, but if I could swing the zumo, I'd be all over it. For me cost was a big factor, I initially planed on spending around $200-$250, and ended up with a $350 nuvi so buying a $650 zumo was out of the question. After having one, I can say that this is a perfect entry GPS, or a GPS for someone that wants something very *very* simple to use. I wish it had a bit more raz-ma-zaz, but you get what you pay for, and this thing is very affordable for what it does. Regarding satellite strength, the only place that it has had problems was in down town Chicago with my wife, they were walking with it between buildings and the accuracy went up to about 240ft, still good enough to get you close, but lacked that "let you off at the door step" feel. I on the other hand have only seen as bad as about 50ft in a heavily wooded area, and have seen as good as 10ft in the open standing still. It averages about 16-20ft when in normal use moving and such. On a bike it gets a 7/10, for the screen brightness issues and the lack of actual push buttons. Though I don't have any problems with the touch screen with gloves on, it would be simpler with push buttons that you can "feel". Also I feel like I should take some points away for lack of water proofing. In the car I give it a 10/10. It is perfect, never fail direction giving. I have yet to be disappointed by a lack of a certain feature in the car, even have used the phone numbers associated with the address to make a dinner reservation (very nice). All in all concerning cost, performance and durability (so far) I rate it at a 8.5/10, and for the money would recommend it to anyone. But with my recommendation you will also get the descriptions of my disappointments. For me the cost jump to get to a gps that does everything that I would want can't be justified over what the nuvi does for me.

Loosen the forks in the triples and the axle pinch bolts, and re-tighten (axle pinch bolts first) them making sure that everything is square. You might want to take the fender off too, as being out of square it is in a bind and may crack. The key will be to measure, measure, measure, and just when you think you are done, measure again to make for posative that everything is true. Have you made sure that the forks are not bent? Might want to check the runout on the tubes.

Only other option that I know of would be Heli bars, not adjustable, but they are cheeper and still raise the bars up.

Don't have honda do the work for you if that is their price. I had my stator rewound by Ricks Motorsport Electric for $140 and it is warranted for 1 year. I would say after reading your other posts, that one of the legs of the stator went to ground and cooked the wiring and the RR. If you search "stator tests" or "R1 RR" you will see that I used a R1 RR instead of the Honda part, R1 RR's typically go on ebay for about $40, I got lucky and picked mine up for $20. $140+$40+$15=alot better than being gouged by the honda dealer. P.S. You have an '02, has the stator recall been preformed?

Though it may cause a disruption for now, but I promice the small sacrafice now is far greater than taking the risk and winding up sliding down the road on your back side. If you can find a tire locally, that would be your best bet to get back on the road asap. But don't ride the bike there, take the wheel off and take IT in.

WOW!! Please do yourself a favor and read your owners manual. Wear bars in no way refers to anything metal. You burned through the wear bars 2k miles ago. No need for me to continue the flame. No one is trying to attack you so don't take it that way, but a tire that looks like that is very dangerous. My suggestion is to go to a dealer now and buy a tire. Take the hit, if it is your only mode of transportation it is your only choice. A leaking tire isn't safe to ride on, and a tire with the cords showing isn't safe to ride on, imagine how safe a tire is that has both. Like Jeremy said, I don't want to read this evening that your tire blew at 80 on the I-state, and now the bike is totaled and you are put up in the hospital for months.

Did it work out OK?

Yes, Green/yellow. You can tell this because they are taking constant power for the license plate light from the brown/blue wire. Good Luck.

I don't know which color it is, but you could easily check. One wire will have 12v constant on it for the running light, the other will only have 12v when the brake is applied. The one that turns "hot" when the brake is applied is where you need to patch this device into.

There are 3 "legs" of the stator, the 3 yellow wires. Lets lable them 1, 2 & 3. Take your multi meter and set it to AC voltage with a range of 0 to somewhere around 200v (same range you would use to check a 120v receptical in your home). Now take the voltage across 1 and 2, 1 and 3, lastly 2 and 3. All 3 values should be very close to one another and at idle read about 20v and at 5krpm read about 60v. Make sure to do this with the RR disconnected.

Horror stories from electro sport products. Try Ricks products, http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/ then read this thread to see his work. Rick's stator The good thing about rick's is he is cheeper than OEM, and offers a 1 yr warranty. He also uses higher quality wire that is more resistant to heat and stress that a MC engine provides. I can't speek for sure, but I doubt that there will be a compatiable stator.

See the other thread, I replied there. That isn't an oem RR. The black wire is a voltage signal wire not found on the 5g VFR. You may have a RR from a 6g, not sure, but that isn't a 5g RR. On a side note, If you are having charging issues, I highly recomend the mod that you are posting in.

First off, fill in this chart. In brackets are typical good results. Battery voltage with bike off = [12.5v] Voltage with bike at idle = [13.2v] Voltage with bike at 5k RPM = [14.0] AC voltage from stator at idle (all 3 legs checked across themselves) = [20 vac] AC voltage from stator at 5k RPM (all 3 legs checked across themselves) = [60 vac] Those 5 checks really help diagnosis. B. Sounds like your stator is tost, but the AC voltage checks will confirm that. C. No, so long as you didn't run it for a really long time (long heat cycle).

You can buy the craftsman kit on sale for $70. In this case, I'd say the extra bit of money spent on the craftsman (if there was any) would be well worth the trouble you'll save yourself.

In that case, no probably not. Maybe a flywheel. Do this, Battery Voltage = 12.3v Charging voltage at Idle = 13.2v Charging voltage at 5k rpm = 12.1v and lower as time goes on. Resistance between battery ground and frame ground = 0.1 ohm Resistance between all 3 legs of the stator = 0.3 - 0.4 ohm Continuity between all 3 legs and ground = none AC voltage from stator (with rr Unpluged) at idle = 19.6v AC voltage from stator (with rr unpluged) at 5k rpm = 65v AC voltage from stator (with rr pluged in) at idle = 11.2v AC voltage from stator (with rr pluged in) at 5k rpm = 4.2v DC voltage at the battery side of the +/- rr Connector = Identical to battery voltage (Bike off = 12.3v / Bike running = 13.2v @ idle, 12.1v @ 5k rpm) DC voltage at the RR side of the +/- RR connector (connector unpluged, measured directly across the red and green wire) at idle = 0.9v - 1.1v DC voltage at the RR side of the +/- RR connector (connector unpluged, measured directly across the red and green wire) at 5k rpm = 0v - 0.1v Fill that in with your own information. The values given are from my bike with a failed OEM RR. Your values should be different, but that will help to pin point the problem.

Don't do this. You successfuly bypassed the 30a main bike fuse. You now have full battery potential on the bike side of the battery, not good. At this point, dead short somewhere means big fire and no more bike. Secondly, if you are over charging, why would you want to increase the charging capeabilites of the bike. I would say you still have a bad RR. What order did you change the stators and RR's in? See, in the featured mods, my R1 RR thread. Much cheeper than an oem unit and works 10x better.

"this is a super reliable bike I would hesitate to drive it anywhere". Alot of faith in his product.

Well, actually it is more than just hair. I have a buzz cut, so hair isn't the true issue, and when I had hair, It was just the usual helmet hair. But since I have little to no buffer between head and helmet, the padding of any helmet leaves indentions in my head. And the Icon's padding pattern is particualry obtrusave. The "silky" acts like a nice fluffy layer of hair.

I should add that it fits "similar" to a RF-1000. I say similar because they are all different, but the RF1000 feels right on me, as does the mainframe. Secondly, another complaint of mine is that the padding really does a number on my hair. I now just wear a "silky" helmet liner under it and all is well, not to mention that my helmet never gets sweat in it, nor does it ever stink.

I have the exact one. I love it and I paid $170 for it. I have worn it for about 2 years and it still looks nice. The ventalation is very good, never been too aweful hot. My only complaint is noise, it is VERY noisy, but earplugs or in-ear headphones take care of that for me. Safety wise, they were right up near the top of a motorcyclist test of helmets, overall I think they finished 2nd because of "bang for buck". Safety wise they were about 4th behind Shoei, Arai and Shark. Great value. I'd buy one again. I just don't like the new ones with all the spoilers on them, looks silly, but the old design looks nice.

And you wont. Snell will not certify them due to the mobile chin bar.