jeremy556

The site says for double side s/a though? :wub:

I think their site is wrong. It is listed for a double swing arm, lists as fitting F4i also, and shows a wheel that uses bearings and has the sprocket mounted to it.

I added fuse holders to the direct-charge wires that go to the positive cable. What is a "safe" fuse size for the output going through each wire?

I just put 30amp fuses in them since thats what the factory harness has in it. The biggest change in voltage from what I've seen on my bike and others is when replacing that 'black' voltage monitor wire from the R/R. Theres a major major progressive resistance problem in that wire somewhere. Someday I want to take the front end off and track that wire down to see exactly whats the problem in the wire from the ignition to the R/R. Mine has a major issue with about 9.3 ohms of resistance from the monitor wire to ignition, which was upping voltage output to 16V +. Since replacing that wire, I can remove the fuses from positive side running to the regulator to the battery to test it and it only causes a 0.6v voltage drop. So basically by rerunning that black wire to my battery allowing correct voltage monitoring, solve a lot of overcharging issues in that alone.

I seem to have somehow missed this thread for the last 2 months.

Jason, regarding the monitor wire, the schematic in the service manual is BS, take a look at the wire harness than Ken was nice enough to cut apart for me to see where the monitor wire goes... Farking nowhere.

Well, I read the whole post, and I think he's out loving life with his new shock right now!! :thumbsup:

I just hope he doesn't get too happy and bottom that resevoir out on his chainguard... that could be bad... or just a bad angle on the camera? :goofy:

It probably won't hit. My res is mounted further forward than that attached to the sub frame and it doesn't seem to hit

After installing a new chain and sprockets today, I had developed a coolant leak which required me to take off my left side panel to track down a loose hose clamp.

While I was in there I took a close look at the forward and rear engine mount bolts that the Radar/RG sliders use and that the Motovation sliders use.

I had not noticed before, but the rear bolts are relatively small tabs coming off the frame and the bolt does not go all the way through, they just mount to more tabs coming off the engine case. The front bolt has a much larger tab from the frame and goes all the way through the engine.

This sort of shows the difference in size of the rear mounting tab versus the front (this is also the hose clamp that was leaking)

Where the rear engine mount bolts to a mounting tab on the engine case

Forward engine mount bolt goes through the frame, all the way through the engine, and out the frame on the other side

http://www.bikersoracle.com/vfr/forum/showthread.php?t=80779

awesome stuff!!! but why go to all that trouble to have an engine WHINE at you ?

:warranty:

To avoid having to replace cam chain tensioners?

Looks good, but damn that was pricey.

You should have hired a couple tweekers to polish up the wheels, probably could have saved $400 on that part :thumbsup:

Lookin' good man!! :thumbsup:

I highly recommend painting the radiators too!

Just need to paint the frame, swingarm, fork legs, and get a dark smoke windscreen...

I predict a sharp near term increase in the price of 98-99 headers. :thumbsup:

HI all, sorry if I missed the answer to this question, but I'll ask anyway

I'm having an overcharging issue on my 02 vfr, the battery will get so hot that it actually makes a buzzing noise for 20 minutes or so. I found that out because I had to ride it home, and it hummed for quite a while.

Now, after researching, I'm thinking it's the regulator, my question is this; Is there anyway to test the R/R without the bike running?/battery fully charged? The reason I ask is that now my battery won't hold a charge, and I didn't want to buy a new battery just to do the test, and then ruin the new battery also somehow. Any help?

Buy the new battery to do the test. You are not going to fry the new battery in the time it takes to do the test. Just hook it up and turn it on and check the system voltage immediately. If it is under 16 volts, let it warm up and test it with high beams at 5500rpm. If it is over 16, check the R/R monitor wire, and go through the troubleshooting for the R/R and stator.

If you are really worried about frying an expensive Yausa, any 12v battery will do, I think you can get generic 12v batteries at wall mart for $20-$30 that would work fine to test it out with.

Fuse Stock 2002 fuse holder

Please help me replace this bugger!!

1. Am I supposed to replace the larger red wire on the left of the photo with 10G wire? If so where does it lead to or terminate?

2.The other small connector that has red/white coming out of both ends does all of that wire get replaced with 10g wire and again where does the end that disappears lead to or terminate?

3.Do the metal clips inside the main fuse and the other smaller connector just pull out?

4.I am assuming that if I am replacing with 10g wire that I have to get new male or female connectors?

5.Does the new fuse holder from RadioShack support the use of 10g wire and connectors?

6.How much dielectric grease should be used, where does it go, and how is it applied?

I would also like to know if the stock fuse holder is typically just kind of tucked away or is it supposed to mount some where or attach to something. Thanks

you are replacing the thick red wire, the fuse holder, anf the red/white wire.

clip off the connector on the wire harness side on the red/white wire.

remove the fuse holder and thick red wire which goes to the battery+.

connect your new wire to battery+ terminal and run it to your new fuse holder.

from the new fuse holder solder splice to where you cut off the connector on the wire harness side

just tuck the new fuse in where the old one was

My bike and I are unscathed thanks to trail braking as last ditch obstacle avoidance. On a ride earlier this year I was going into a long left turn rather hot and I saw some tar snakes that made me panic/freeze for a split second and my line started to go too wide. The night before I had been reading an EXTENSIVE write up on the FS school. I had been impressed with the writer's description of using the rear brake to change direction. In my moment of panic I was still slightly on the brakes but I then applied the rear brake heavily. Over she went even further and we went inside the tar snakes and safely up the road.

Careful with that rear, front is much more effective

I am now on my 3rd R/R on my 6th gen because of voltage of 16 or more. Seems, the voltage is in the 15.3-15.9 range for a couple of months and then it starts going up to 16 -16.5 causing ABS system to freak out and batteries to die, until a new R/R brings it back down to the 15s again.

I have done all of the electrical system test including the stator and all have always checked out fine pointing to a bad R/R, but now that I have had 3 I think the problem lies elsewhere. My only guess is the stator so I am going to get a replacement. Is there any other possible causes that I am not thinking of?

What to do?

OK, I have to replace my shock now. Rebuild/revalve/respring runs $400 and will leave me with no shock for over a week on my primary transportation.

WP 4014 Fusion with remote res and preload is $850. Ohlins 46HRCS is similar, but not sure if it will fit vtec. Ohlins 46DRS is $650 and it fits VTEC.

Which one should I get? Right now, I am slow, and ride in Florida. I should be moving to North GA in the next couple of months so will have good roads and should get better. I plan on doing some track days, but not racing. I know little about suspension other than that my shock sucks.

Here are my symptoms and solutions...

Symptom: ABS light flashing when brights are turned on

Solution: New R/R

More Info: Read code from ABS ? charging system problem. Discovered 16+ volts when brights were on above 6K RPM. Normal voltage when brights were off.

Symptom: Idle would drop to 600 for a few seconds and engine would stop.

Solution: Replaced 30 amp fuse and wire at battery

More Info: This would happen very randomly, only at idle. Not 100% sure the fuse is what fixed it, but it has not happened since it was replaced.

Good luck on the front sliders, but I doubt it is possible to have front sliders that would be strong enough to withstand a crash without cutting anything. You must also keep in mind balance points, and if a location would lever, for example the front end into the ground, etc, etc.

Finally took pictures:

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The bolt was something that I had laying around, will change it to a nice round headed bolt.

Diameter of the ball is 32mm (1?inch)

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Did you highside or flip or something? My bike the lower part of the rear pegs toucheddown and a little on the rear fairing, didn't seem to come close to the exhaust.

I am guessing you also got frame sliders for the front of the bike.

I took a quick look through all the post so far and it looks like the '02 model has the most responses as having electrical harness problems. Is this just because it's been out there longer or was there something different about the "early" VTECs?

Also, it would be interesting to see if others (outside the US) are having the same problems. If I remember right, Honda sells a lot more VFRs in Europe than they do in the US.

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I compared all of the part numbers for all the wiring harnesses, battery, etc. between 2002 and 2005 models. The only changes were the part number for the battery was updated several times, no other wiring had changed according to the fiche at Ron Ayers.

I am very glad that Baily brought this issue back to life as I had never noticed it before. After reading the initial posts in this and another thread on this topic I found my fuse was melted and the wires were very burned and brittle. I replaced that part with new 10g wire and some wire loom, and am working on cleaning and greasing all my electrical connections. I still have yet to do the ones under the front fairing but have the sides and rear done.

I also just had to replace my R/R as it was putting out 16+ volts over 5500rpm with the brights on which may have contributed to the melted fuse. The bike is a 2002 with 32K miles, I bought it in September 05 with 14K miles.

i recently got the quest also, I like it so far. Make sure to go to Garmin's web site and order latest version of map software, you get one upgrade free. Also be sure and download the latest firmware, and if you want it, you need to download the latest voice software seperately and install it. I just got the version 2 voice and it is much less irritating than the one that came with mine.