jeremy556

The white pegs, heat shield, and front fender look like, ass. Sorry I think the white wheels and white stripe on red could work without those aforementioned parts.

Don't ban me, bro!

The heat shield white is actually primer, and so is the front fender. I am going to probably keep the heat shield that way but the fender no gonna do the red with white strips there too as soon as its cured completly, its a different kind of paint so I will have to wait till it cures. Ass he says, dont hold back Jeremy tell me what you really think. I like it and thats all that counts.

My opinion's worth what you paid for it.

Cheers

The white pegs, heat shield, and front fender look like, ass. Sorry I think the white wheels and white stripe on red could work without those aforementioned parts.

Don't ban me, bro!

Race only slip on. Way too loud. Vibrations and back firing from the lean condition.

Disconnect the PAIR system to get rid of the popping. The back fire has always been there, you can just now hear the combustion that takes place in the headers as the PAIR valves open and allow oxygen to mix with unburned fuel and hot headers.

Kanadian Ken

Buy the newer Michelin Pilot Road 2. There are twice the tire the original Road was and provide better grip, handling & wear.

They cost more but are worth it. :unsure:

Run 36/42 always on the VFR period!

ps qualifiers suc

If he is getting 10K miles out of Qualifiers, Road2s are going to dryrot before they wear out

ETA = Edited to Add.

Water is non compressible, which is why a lot of it ends up in air compressors as you compress large volumes of air. A water separator will be more than good enough for any motorcycle uses.

Is Nitrogen, as delivered, better for tires, than air out of a regular air compressor? Yes. Is it worth the hassle unless you happen to have a handy, free supply? Unlikely.

I adjust my air pressure way too much to use nitrogen. Typical day, I head to the Gap at 42 pounds of pressure, drop to 32-38 depending on the temp, road condition, and what kind of riding I'm doing. Then at the end of the day I fill back up at the store to about 42 and head home.

I do the same, and make good use of the air hoses at the CROT gas pumps.

Anybody out there running Nitrogen in their bike tires? I have been using it in the cages for it's claimed benefit of not changing pressure/volume aas much with air temp. Seems to work well. The pressure in the car tires are very stable. Just wondering if anyone has tried.

Jim

I use about 78% nitrogen. :goofy:

The changing pressure/volume thing (along with pretty much every other benefit to Nitrogen) is a myth. Read up on Ideal gas law, Nitrogen performs the same as every other element in gas form. The only benefit of nitrogen tire fills outside of aviation (oxygen being flammable), is lack of moisture, which can easily be achieved with air as well, without paying a premium.

ETA: What is your PhD in?:biggrin:

If you are getting nearly 10K out of a set of Qualifiers, I would run Pilot Powers. For freeway use 36/42 f/r as recommended by Honda is ideal. Your previous bike was much lighter than the VFR I would bet, and calls for lower tire pressure.

Your tire wearing out after you increased the pressure was just coincidence. Tires last much longer at higher pressure, but produce greater grip at lower pressure. Lower pressure means more carcass flex and increased heat.

^ Did you try and recharge the battery?

One of my clients sells batteries. I called him and he's going to check my battery tomorrow. If it's not the battery than I'm going to replace the RR. I let my bike sit for 3 weeks with no battery tender and it fired right up. This time I let it sit for a week and the the items in my OP occur. My uneducated guess is the RR but I'll find out soon enough.

I would recommend doing diagnostics to find out exactly what the problem is, rather than throw parts it. You may get lucky on the first try, or you might end up replacing good parts.

Could be battery, stator, or R/R.

Fully charge the battery and have it tested to start with. Then, check your voltage at 5500rpm. If it is low, check the stator.

For all you racer types out there: Do any of the track day sanctioning organizations have a problem with solid mounted pegs? I know at one time WERA rules required folding pegs. Supposedly somebody, sometime in the distant past put a footpeg through their calf muscle when they went down.

I haven't checked the rule book, but I would say no. Don't see too many bikes without solid rear sets, and those are running stock parts.

Tell tale sign of R/R over charging. My "sealed" AGM would whistle as it off gassed when I was running 16 volts.

Start the bike up and check the voltage with the bike running and at 5500RPM.

Stator would not likely be a problem in this instance.

Having done that before, I would sell it and pickup a used race bike.

Steering bearings. Get some tapered rollers from AllBallzRacing. There is a how to guide on this site for installation, just make sure not to over tighten.

What is a "Proad1" or "Proad2"?

Pilot Road, Pilot Road 2

I have run those and the Dunlop Qualifier. Qualifier got maybe 1/3 the mileage of the Road 2, are a real PITA to mount because of stiff sidewalls, and they suck after about 80% tread wear. Unless they are free, or nearly free, I wouldn't recommend them. In the same class as the Qualifier, the Pilot Power, M3, and Diablos are all much, much better tires in every way. I have not used the road smarts.

Jeremy,

Hey are you talking about the PR2 or PR? You know in Florida we have to get a harder tire to make it at least 4k miles :biggrin: I've really been happy with my Avon Storms, they do great in rain/dry and still have plenty of grip for the yearly trip to NC. Although I would love to run a set of PP.....I doubt they would last 4k miles in FL. I'm seriously considering the PR2 to try them out....

Road2, the regular Roads would have probably last forever, I would end up changing them before the tread was worn out because they suck so bad. Try a set of Road2s and they will feel like sport tires after running Roads.

Not the best pics, taken in the trailer while loading it up.

Broken footpeg hanger, trashed center stand and shifter

Upper and side fairing, bar end and lever of course. The crackling in the fuel tank paint is my crappy rattle can clear coat that didn't last very long after fixing damage from a previous crash. The fairing did not touch the tank, radiator, or frame in this case.

What was left of the frame slider, and one of the reasons I would prefer Radar's. It is difficult to remove the slider when the nut and the engine mount bolt have become one. The bike took a very long slide, it never left the track, just slid on its side straight down the back straight at Jennings.

What is a "Proad1" or "Proad2"?

Pilot Road, Pilot Road 2

I have run those and the Dunlop Qualifier. Qualifier got maybe 1/3 the mileage of the Road 2, are a real PITA to mount because of stiff sidewalls, and they suck after about 80% tread wear. Unless they are free, or nearly free, I wouldn't recommend them. In the same class as the Qualifier, the Pilot Power, M3, and Diablos are all much, much better tires in every way. I have not used the road smarts.

I was under the impression that the frame was on the inside of the fairing. Guess my bike was made different.

I also learned that a dented gas tank totals a bike. I thought total meant total loss.

Guess I have a lot to learn about bikes. :cool:

When you tip over, the fairing stay will bend, and the fairing will crush the fuel tank, radiator, and the frame itself. My bike was totaled for this exact reason, when the fairing scratched the frame.

Try this link:

Frame Sliders Search Results

If that doesn't work, hit search at the top of the forum and search for "Frame Sliders." The topic has been done to death, usually about once a week since the forum started.

If you want effective frame sliders, you have to drill your fairings.

Charge the battery, see if the the bike starts with it. If it does not start, take the battery to a battery store or auto parts store and have it load tested to rule it out.

With the battery verified and fully charged, put a multi meter on it and see what the charging voltage is at idle and at 5500RPM with the bike warmed up. It should be in the 13.8-15 volt range.

Post back with your results. If it is under 13.8 then you will begin testing the stator, if it is over 15 volts you will begin with the R/R and wiring, if it is within spec, check for parasitic loss when the key is off.

15 volts is high, but probably won't do too much damage. It will keep getting higher as the resistance in the ignition circuit continues to lower the voltage on the monitor wire at the R/R. Eventually mine went up to over 16 volts and was causing ABS codes, and burning out bulbs, and frying batteries.

Another quick and easy way to test, is to simply use a volt meter to check the voltage at the monitor wire. Just stick the probe into the back of the connector and compare that voltage with the voltage at the battery.

ABS model? I'm betting it is the monitor wire problem, and the R/R is just fine.

Put your volt meter on and start the bike up and let it warm up. Check voltage at 5500 RPM, then turn on brights and check voltage, then wait until the rad fan comes on, check voltage, turn on brights and check voltage. The voltage will probably increase with load.

Another test you can do, and a solution if you wire it permanently is to run a test lead from the battery positive terminal to the monitor wire at the R/R. Your voltage will probably be close to 14.4 at all times with it in place.

The VFRness is an excellent plug and play solution if you determine this is the cause.

Possibly, but more likely due to non OEM seals, or not replacing worn bushings. Order some Honda seals and bushings, and they shouldn't leak for a long time.

If the FI light is on, you can short out the black connector under the right meter panel and count the flashes to get the stored code(s). Probably not going to help with your problems, however.

Download the factory service manual from the downloads section on this site and break out your volt meter. The wiring schematics are at the end of the service manual.