jeremy556

Ohlins all the way. :laugh: Can't wait to get the forks on. :cool:

Your profile shows an RC51 as gone. Did you do a RC51 on your VFR and are installing RC51 R&T forks? What calipers are you using?

Rusty I know you got a 6th Gen, sorry 6.5 :laugh: , but where is your compression damping remote adjuster fixed? The hose looks very short?

Bren, waiting on "his" Öhlins

The compression adjuster is the black knob on the end of the remote reservoir closest to the hose. The hose on the Ohlins is short, wish it were an inch or two longer.

Interesting.

Why not go with an RC51 or F4i complete front end instead? Should have better suspenders, brakes, and wheel options either way.

Why bother with an aluminum fuel cell on such a heavy bike? Wait, let me guess, you are a welder. :fing02: Nice beads.

Seriously though, Isn't fuel cell technology water based in some way??

Fuel cells are real. They chemically convert a fuel into electricity.

The "water fuel cell" was one of the many scams.

ETA Wikipedia info:

Water Fuel Cell

The water fuel cell is a device invented by American Stanley Meyer, which he claimed could convert water into its component elements, hydrogen and oxygen, using less energy than can be obtained by the subsequent combustion of those elements, a process that results the reconstitution of the water molecules. Thus, if the device operated as claimed, the combustion cycle would start and end in the same state while extracting usable energy, thereby violating both the first and second laws of thermodynamics, allowing operation as a perpetual motion machine. Meyer's claims about the Water Fuel Cell and the car that it powered were found to be fraudulent by an Ohio court in 1996.[1]

Real Fuel Cells

A fuel cell is an electrochemical conversion device. It produces electricity from fuel (on the anode side) and an oxidant (on the cathode side), which react in the presence of an electrolyte. The reactants flow into the cell, and the reaction products flow out of it, while the electrolyte remains within it. Fuel cells can operate virtually continuously as long as the necessary flows are maintained.

Fuel cells are different from batteries in that they consume reactant, which must be replenished, whereas batteries store electrical energy chemically in a closed system. Additionally, while the electrodes within a battery react and change as a battery is charged or discharged, a fuel cell's electrodes are catalytic and relatively stable.

Many combinations of fuel and oxidant are possible. A hydrogen cell uses hydrogen as fuel and oxygen as oxidant. Other fuels include hydrocarbons and alcohols. Other oxidants include air, chlorine and chlorine dioxide.[1]

FYI They are not running 100% on the Hydrogen gas made. The Hydrogen gas is added to the motor in addition to fossil fuel. My customer is adding his Hydrogen gas via I think vacuum line that all ready hooked in to the air in take of the motor. He is expecting to get better gas mileage not stop using fossil fuel all together.

The issue is, where does the hydrogen come from?

If using electrolysis to get hydrogen from water, you are using the engine to power an alternator, which powers the electrolysis, to power the engine. :fing02:

This, and all of the “run on water” stories are BS. They are all scam artists trying to con people out of money.

Separating Hydrogen from Oxygen takes more energy (in the form of electricity) than can be gained by burning the hydrogen.

The keys to not messing up the bike during transitions are to keep your butt off the seat (as Rice said), you should be sliding over the seat, not sitting on it, all your weight should be on your legs. The other thing is you may be supporting weight on your arms, if so, when you move your body you will inadvertently counter steer the bike.

Another issue most people have when starting to hang off is they are crossed up, which eliminates the benefits of hanging off, while still adding the complexity. Make sure to concentrate on moving your upper body down and try to kiss your mirror. Keep your outside arm loose and rest it on the tank. Lean forward so your chest is near the tank. You can do this with your butt planted in the seat so you can work on one thing at a time.

Like Bailey said, the upper body position will probably do more for you than hanging off.

Perhaps you had some other underlying problem that it would not drop from 225+ degrees? In routine 110 degree ambient temperatures mine would kick the fan on at 220 and would drop to 200 or at least stay between 210 and 220.

Start with setting your static sag. There is a How To in the How To section.

Right through the NACA duct!!!????

NEIN!! NO GOOD!!, BLECHHH!

WHAT WERE THEY THINKING??

That the engine mount was behind the naca duct, would be my guess

Just like your face on a swimsuit model. :wheel: :goofy:

Touche

Just came across this and thought I'd bump it up. :wheel:

Why? That is one ugly mother f#$%er

Took mine in last Wed. for the recall. Running just fine as usual. Picked the bike up later that afternoon......bike ran like crap.

Frustrated <_< but had to leave bike at the dealership. Two days later the service manager called and explained that they found a burned connector that's part of the main wire harness(not part of the two being replaced under the recall) and that he had contacted Honda's techline and sent pics etc. to them.

At this point, I'm told that a new main wire harness should be sent out for my bike hopefully this week.

Here's the burned connector...left side just forward of the the battery compartment

Burned connector after recall

That is one of the ground blocks. Others have had the same problem with them.

What kind of rotors are those?

kill it with fire

IBTL

I think a couple members here have them, and at least 1 has tested them out and they did their job.

They are incredibly expensive, and will be less effective than radar or r&g sliders.

Sweet... thanks! He wants to get the warranty stuff done before I add the VFRNess... but I will post pics when we get to that point. Thanks for taking such good care of me/him!

I would go ahead and install, since it is plug and play with factory connectors it shouldn't be any issue.

I have 04, and was wondering after I get the recall on the electric harness done, will I need to do the mod? or will the replacing of the harness fix this problem

I would say that Honda's recall is extremely unlikely to fix the monitor wire and the 30 amp fuse problem. They make no mention of these issues, and will only replace the main harness if it has damage from the ground issue at the blue connector.

I was wrong. The recall does appear to fix the blue connector, r/r monitor wire, and 30 amp fuse problems.

i seen the blue connector ground wire fix somewhere in all this reading so i know what your reffering too.

i think its in this thread so ill backtrack and find it.

found it: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...st&p=402525

this one?

Yep, that is it. I used some of those crimp on quick splices into the wire on each side of the connector and grounded it...

Easiest way to the monitor wire fix is to remove the wire from the connector on the R/R side with a small screw driver, then use an insulated female quick disconnect to connect to your fused wire from the battery.

does the 06 & 07 not need this? Do they have different wiring?

Everyone that has seen them side by side says that much of the wiring has been changed/upgraded. I would still install a volt meter.

Great post - I'd really like this mod, but it's just not something I'm willing to do myself. Any drawbacks to adding just the voltmeter to a stock system? ('02)

The volt meter will allow you to see low or high voltage before you get stranded or things fried, but it will do nothing to prevent or fix these problems.

Excellent post and how-to talus :thumbsup:

You can measure the voltage at the batter terminals.

Ken pretty much summed it up. The R/R will see that your battery voltage is low and pump out higher voltage in order to charge it. As the faulty monitor wire gets worse it will give lower and lower voltages until the R/R is pumping out over 16 volts which will burn up wires, light bulbs, fuses, and your battery (probably not good for things like the PGM-FI either).

If your R/R is putting out more than 15 volts at 5KRPM with the brights on, I would recommend doing this fix. I have so far not seen any 05+ model with this problem. I don’t know if that is because they fixed the wiring problem, or there are simply no bikes with enough miles to yet experience any symptoms. Mine took 20K miles before it had noticeable symptoms.

You need a wide angle lens :thumbsup: