Ranger77

Sounds like the tump over sensor is out of wack. Its behind the headlights.

Well even the R1 FH011AA gets hot in the stock location. Got in on the passenger peg so itll get air flow.

I wired a volt meter and it was pushing 14v the whole time during my trip until I was about 5 miles from my desination and it was high 12's.

"If a bike wont start , you go to eat and it fires right up afterwards, it has NOTHING to do with changing system or STATOR

so you have an additional problem

the o2 model has a unique stator and flywheel , they were all supposed to be upgraded to 03 model level, are you sure yours had the upgrade, if so you can run 03 to 09 stators.

Important to know, you cant order a stator without knowing if you've had the upgrade, there is an entire kit with flywheel and stator available for 02 model to bring up to o3 level"

Wrong. I have the same problem (minus stator grounding). Its the R/R getting too hot. Its dieing. I can ride as long as I want but on long trips all is well untill after hours of riding and I come to a stop, the engine dies. Itll act as if the battery is dead, but let the bike cool off and shell start back up. My R/R is charging the batt at 14.6v but you can cook your meal on it. Also you can see the internals starting to melt through the epoxy on the underside.

That are it. On the 00-01's we have a clearish plug with 5 wires. Two red, two green, and one black (monitor wire).

FYI. That single red wire plug above the black and clear stator plug. Unplug it and make sure the female spade connector inside is tight. I stuck a small flat blade screw driver in it to close it up some so the male fits nice and tight. Some people have that melt on them.

I believe Honda vehicles use wideband O2 sensors.

Based on the video I made of the OEM sensor, the VFR800 uses narrowband sensors.

Vehicles. Not bikes.

Yea. Male plastic connector with female spade connectors in it.

Well you're '98 so what ever yours is. LOL

You for sure know fuel is coming out the injectors? I'd prop the tank up, take the filter out and take a look down the throttle bodies while cranking it.

Some head scratching on hookup of this thing. - The stator wires are an obvious no brainer. But I have read to connect the power wires direct to the battery, fused of course. So, does that mean to leave the normal r/w and green connector that the stock R/R would plug into, open, no R/R connection to that stocker connector?

I bought the NAPA pins for the stator connector supplied from CF, and jeez, thier kinda wimpy. Dunno if I want to use them.

-- Will they be ok? Supposed to be 16 gauge.

Thanks

Just leave the stock male R/R connector alone. Wrap it with some tape and forget about it. I got my FH011AA hooked up directly to the battery.

The only time I had some backfiring was when I hooked up the coils wrong for the back two cylinders. It ran, but the engine sounded mad. LOL

FYI. The dash uses regular bulbs yo light it and for the idiot lights.

You might be able to temporarily fix the starter motor by taking it apart and cleaning it out.

Worked for me a couple times years ago with an old Yamaha before I finally got a rebuilt one and replaced it.

Lots of black dusty grunge in there.

+1. I take my vehicles starter off every few years and give it a good cleaning with electrical cleaning spray. Water, dirt, grime, grease. It all gets in there.

I know theyre not necessary but I like the 90° battery ends on the cables. I have a new set coming in. I just wanted some extras encase i go with a thicker gauge wire.

Everyone says to use these but no one has posted a detailed install on these. Just some far away pics. What exactly do I need to do to wire one of these to my '01 VFR? I saw a pic where a guy used the stock power wires put together then crimped to the R/R and I've read just to ground the negative and put the positive straight to the positive battery post with a fuse in between.

If I go with the direct battery wiring method, what do I do with the stock male harness connector? Do I wire the two positives together and the two negative wires together and just leave the black "monitor" wires alone?

We're no the only ones using this. Ive seen this swap done on other bike forums.

You happen know where to get tye top battery terminals? I want to up the gauge on the bettry cables.

Just switch the wires.

You do know that we get a discount at Mason City Honda don't you? Just go OEM.

Best price I'm seeing is about $180 before shipping.

Anyone know better?

http://www.usmotoman....ystem/-1_17037

$173.39

Shipping will make or break it.

http://www.debrix.com/Voltage-Regulator-For-Compu-Fire-3Phase-System-p/cf55402-mca.htm

$171.99

I see the two "B" are together. Is there an "M" on the other side on the black one? Maybe it's backwards? Is this an OEM one or one off of ebay?

I dont know. Thats Tightwads site.

Sounds like the R/R is kicking the bucket. Mine will get hot and sometimes when I pull in the clutch, the bike will just die. It'll act as if the battery is dead until it cools down enough.

For those that don't like cotton gaze and would rather go paper-

K&N 33-2700 fits the following:

1988-1998 SUZUKI VITARA 1.6L L4 F/I - 257MM x 206MM

1989-1995 SUZUKI SIDEKICK 1.6L L4 TBI - All

1989-1995 GEO TRACKER 1.6L L4 TBI - VIN U

I'm guessing since K&N filter are usaully not as thick, make sure the paper filter you find is less than an inch thick.

(Ironic that it's a filter for a Suzuki)

I know those vehicles. LOL I'm gonna go the paper route. OEM filters are over priced and I've used K&N's on both motorcycles and vehicles and I don't think they filter that great (uh oh argument starter).

I believe Honda vehicles use wideband O2 sensors.

Its right under the FH012 r/r