Walker1

Reviving an old post.

does anyone have any idea if these would fit the fifth gen?

https://www.amazon.ie/gp/product/B0BX3WSLY7/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A37QSFXISPSOHL&psc=1

10 hours ago, Grum said:

 If they don't you know you don't have a Turn Relay fault.

I performed this and unfortunately the lights do not come on atall. The bulbs are the correct wattage.

I replaced the blown fuse and rechecked continuity which is good for all the lights. But there is no continuity going to the indicator relay.

Why could this be?

Hello, 

Recently my indicators stopped working entirely.

The relay would tick when I started the bike l, almost every time..

I pulled the switch housing apart and gave it a good clean and nothing happened. 

Ordered a new relay and put that on and again nothing happened.. (except the fuse blew)

While having the fairings off I checked the continuity.. front and back right is good but the left is no good... 

Any suggestions?

Could be the new indicator relay was no good and that was the original cause but I don't know.. fuse was good before I started this diagnose 

On 7/20/2021 at 5:59 PM, daved said:

How are your cush drive rubbers looking? mine (@ 80k miles) needed replacing, made gear changes much smoother.

The cush drive rubbers look ok; they are not longer attached together but gave the general area a good clean up and put them back in! Wandered what they affected!

On 7/21/2021 at 6:35 PM, BusyLittleShop said:

are my axle care notes

Much appreciated!

On 7/21/2021 at 6:51 PM, BusyLittleShop said:

tantamount to bike abuse...

Guilty as charged! I suspect a sponge and bucket may be a better option..

On 7/21/2021 at 9:27 PM, Mohawk said:

then they wouldn't need a hammer !

Learning more and more! This is an adventure.. one that may not need a hammer again 😝

2 hours ago, BusyLittleShop said:

you are dealing with are the negative effects of of corrosion...

BusyLittleShop you legend. Got the bugger off. Put the nut on, gave it a belt and bing bang boosh! Lots and lots of corrosion.. the inside of the sprocket looking not so good nor the axle itself.. any tips to clean these bad boys?

Also you nailed it on the head.. I use this bike year around and also washed it down a couple times with the hose

Next part is to remove the caliper mounting plate.. also wont budge!! Wahoo

3 hours ago, Skids said:

Are you following the Service Manual (downloadable from this site)?

 

I haven't taken the rear hub off a VFR for a few years and I can't remember any differences from the 5th Gen, but I thought you needed to remove the brake disc assembly?

 

I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will be along soon.

Yes sir.. I have it done along with the manual.. I believe that it has corroded on as the full sprocket should slide off and the axle should slide out!

Ok guys.. the chin adjuster seized so I decided to take I apart..

Took off the exhaust, broke the axle nut (with some great force and effort), removed the brake caliper and then I was stuck...

The sprocket would not come off..

Using a piece of wood and a lump hammer (and a few days soak with penetrating wd40) and a few wacks eventually the sprocket came off.. wahoo!

The unfortunate part is I am now stuck here..

I got a bigger wood and a bigger hammer and have given the axle a few more belts but nothing.. not a budge.

Iam stumped.. any suggestions?

Just an update! I have not taken the forks apart just yet..

I have adjusted the sag both front and back and went on a short spin. This has changed handling in corners abit.

Only problem is I have full preload on the front and the sag is not low enough (37mm) but pretty close. Will look into proper linear springs for my weight. Then I’ll service the forks!

I found these guys here a a potential option for a rear shock. Any experience? https://shock-factory.fr/fr/content/9-amortisseur-m-shock-2

15 hours ago, Magneto said:

Alright 👍 from what I can tell oem seals directly from Honda are cheapest at 17 bucks per set, per side at Partzilla. That is cheap. 

Assuming you can do the work yourself I would do front forks - oil and seals, take it for a spin to see how it ride and go from there...

Yes sir. Appreciate your patience. I’ve found the genuine seals €30 a set.. can find 10w fork oil €10 here handy so may give it a go sure! All I need now is pvc piping and a syringe haha.

What pvc piping did you use.. have a picture of that?

7 hours ago, Magneto said:

Based on quick search I am thinking those are Showa forks, have some of the owners here confirm it though. I am lucky to have Kayabas (KYB) forks on all my Japanese bikes.

6 minutes ago, Dutchy said:

SHOWA

Thanks guys.

Ok, the most complicated part of this job seems to be sourcing all of the parts.

The forks may need a servicing and they may also need fresh springs to suit my weight. From what I understand is the stock springs are suited to a 155lb rider. I’m around 180 without gear.

I’ve spoken to a specialist here in Ireland and have done some calculations in regards to the title of this thread.

Firstly, if I were to go with DMR in America and have it shipped it would cost 800 euro for the shock and 600 for the forks which would still need servicing (new seals, oil etc) totalling 1400 euros plus service (not sure of the cost)

The specialists recommended a wilbers (640 i believe) rear shock for 580 euros and wilbers progressive springs for the front for 160 euros. Totalling 740 euros plus service (not sure of the cost) which i may be able to get them to do if I also get them to fit the shocks.

What I was thinking is; ordering DMR rear shock =800 euros and wilbers progressive springs for the front =160 euros plus the price of service and fitting =960+??

What are you’re thoughts and opinions on this.

Would the difference between wilbers rear shock and DMR rear shock be worth the 240 euros extra?

18 hours ago, Magneto said:

get the OEM from fork manufacturers to save bit of money for exact same goods

Ok. My question is then.. how do i find the OEM fork manufacturer!

18 hours ago, Magneto said:

Service would include fork and dust seal replacement.

Would this be what I’m looking for?- https://www.wemoto.ie/bikes/honda/vfr_800_fi-1/01/picture/fork_repair_kit_-_slinky_glide

Would this be unnecessary - https://www.ebay.co.uk/c/1574495947

thanks. I might see about an aftermarket spring perhaps.

1 hour ago, Magneto said:

there shocks available on used market from newer bikes that are commonly swapped for the fifth gen?

This thread didn’t load the first time around Magneto, thanks! I am going to look at the nr4 shock and see what those guys at Maxton say. I know its UK but I believe if items are made in the UK they may not be subject to some form of tax  (i could be wrong)

31 minutes ago, Magneto said:

trying to tell us that UK shops are price prohibitive due to current duties.

Exactly!

32 minutes ago, Magneto said:

basic service and proper bespoke weight adjustment

Ok.. I imagine i should give a go at the basic service before adjusting the weight. Perhaps a job for the mechanics so I can observe how its done.. at least the first time around!

9 minutes ago, Captain 80s said:

installed 3 YSS shocks now, and I am very happy with them.

Thats awesome! How do you find it works when riding two up?

Thats an awesome collection you have!

45 minutes ago, Magneto said:

how many miles you have on the bike

Good point! I have 24.5k miles currently.

46 minutes ago, Magneto said:

start with changing fork oil with proper viscosity one and making sure gap is correct

Good idea. I have never done this before. Will check the manual. Exactly what gap am i checking?

47 minutes ago, Magneto said:

suspension adjustment to your specific weight

Also am currently looking into this. From what i understand the springs in the stock are for a relatively light rider. I’m not exactly heavy but 180ish in the buff.

12 minutes ago, Thumbs said:

Brooks Barn have rebuilt a shock for my CBR @£160

 

Given the age I’d go for a Hagon or YSS unit @£300

Appreciate the response Thumbs. Unfortunately due to brexit I would be warranted to pay 21% for postage both ways for a rebuild. I will check those units out you’ve mentioned!

Hello guys from Ireland ! I have been considering upgrading my suspension and even the forks. The roads here are bumpy and the ride on country roads is not comfortable, either solo or two up!

The bike is all stock. Daugherty motor sports is the recommended go too guy and I have spoken to him. Very helpful!

The question for me is if anyone has any experience with a rebuild or upgrade that can be done in Europe?

The pricing is currently out of my budget plus I’m not sure how upgrading will effect insurance policy (again, any experience do let me know!)

Also shipping from USA to eu... 21%ish on top i believe.. ouch! (I could be wrong.. feel free to correct me!)

I am planning on keeping this bike for the foreseeable future and intend on riding it. Daily commutes (after restrictions), touring and two up riding.

Thankyou

On 10/5/2020 at 1:21 AM, Grum said:

a shorting wire

What is this? I haven't a clue!

On 10/6/2020 at 12:15 AM, DannoXYZ said:

Solid-state replacements exists for pretty much any bike. Trick is finding one with proper connector. Typically I just chop off wiring and solder in pigtail that fits new flasher. This one may fit 5th-gen without mods:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NO49SR0

https://m.louis.ie/artikel/electronic-flasher-unit-2-poles-fuer-honda-vfr-800-fi/10032271?list=a2693496b86112e5eb54afb3583e1f8c&filter_bike_id=0848 is this one suitable would you say?

Here in Ireland!

On 10/6/2020 at 4:40 AM, dschafer said:

Don’t fire the parts cannon just yet.

I have took the housing apart, gave it a spray down with electric contact cleaner, cleaned it with a q tip and a spray of wd40.. nothing changed unfortunately! Only difference is I have difficulty getting the back screw back in 😂

On 10/5/2020 at 9:32 AM, Grum said:

 

Or you turn ignition on but for some time pressing the Starter Switch does nothing? 

 

This. I discovered that it only happens if I leave the Killswitch on when the bike is off.

If I leave the Killswitch on and flip it off before turning the bike on there is a delay.. and If I flip the Killswitch after turning the bike off then it starts without the delay 

Hope that makes sense

5 hours ago, DannoXYZ said:

You can also replace with solid-state relay. Much more reliable and not temperature dependent. Also works with LED indicators if you get them in future.

How do I go about this?

11 hours ago, Grum said:

Keep us posted on how you go.

Cheers

Will try this out!

Hello guys, back again with another issue!

Really getting to learn this bike... 01 fifth gen with indicator issues.

I noticed they work fine when the weather is warm but when it's cold there is a delay between pushing the indicator and the flashing of the lights.

Something I have noticed is the delay happens only when I go from indicating left to indicating right. For example if I indicate left there will be an initial delay and then after canceling it if I indicate left there would not be a delay but there would be if I were to indicate right.

I checked the wires. There was a loose connection to the backlight which I fixed when I got the bike but did not resolve the issue.

Fuses look good, battery is good and there's a new R/R unit on her.

Looked at posts of similar issues and haven't found a solution not anyone mentioning this unilateral 

delay

On 9/10/2020 at 12:29 PM, Grum said:

Now you're talking. Charging volts are ok, go ride. And bin your voltmeter!

Took it for a few shpins..

It has been behaving just fine and battery is maintaining the charge!

I am still having the issue of a delay in the indicators. There is also a delay between turning the key on and being able to start the engine.

Both seem to only happen when it's not warm out and both are intermittent.

These must be a separate issue!

12 hours ago, Grum said:

Walker.

Again your voltages are erroneous and not good, for the Stator Check at 5000rpm. As "The Drill" states you should be seeing 50volts AC or greater between any two pins of the Stator output leads. Unplugged from the R/R.

Was your meter set to AC Range? Remember, it's AC voltage out of the Stator and DC voltage out of the R/R.

Again I'm suspicious of your technique or your meter!

 

If you are only seeing 5.92v AC at the Stator leads then your Stator is Definelty NOT Good.! And your DC charge voltage at 5000rpm is not good.

 

Suggest confirming this test again, perhaps with a known good meter.

 

 

Thanks for your patience!

The technique was appropriate but the meter... I used my neighbours and the reading I got seem more appropriate

So battery voltage was 13.3-13.5 at idle.. 14.5 at 5000rpm

The stator was 15-17 at idle and 55ish at 5000rpm for each of the pins.

On 9/5/2020 at 11:17 PM, mello dude said:

What is the AC voltage of each leg of the stator at idle and 5000 rpm?

I got a steady 5.92-5.96volts over all pin to pins

I have got the new rectifier and have tested the battery voltage again.

It's now around:

13 with engine off

14-14.5 idle

10-11 at 5000rpm.

Bike sounds healthier with new r/r.. not sure if that's normal but I know the volts at 5000rpms are low!