Walker1

I performed this and unfortunately the lights do not come on atall. The bulbs are the correct wattage. I replaced the blown fuse and rechecked continuity which is good for all the lights. But there is no continuity going to the indicator relay. Why could this be?

Hello, Recently my indicators stopped working entirely. The relay would tick when I started the bike l, almost every time.. I pulled the switch housing apart and gave it a good clean and nothing happened. Ordered a new relay and put that on and again nothing happened.. (except the fuse blew) While having the fairings off I checked the continuity.. front and back right is good but the left is no good... Any suggestions? Could be the new indicator relay was no good and that was the original cause but I don't know.. fuse was good before I started this diagnose

The cush drive rubbers look ok; they are not longer attached together but gave the general area a good clean up and put them back in! Wandered what they affected! Much appreciated! Guilty as charged! I suspect a sponge and bucket may be a better option.. Learning more and more! This is an adventure.. one that may not need a hammer again 😝

BusyLittleShop you legend. Got the bugger off. Put the nut on, gave it a belt and bing bang boosh! Lots and lots of corrosion.. the inside of the sprocket looking not so good nor the axle itself.. any tips to clean these bad boys? Also you nailed it on the head.. I use this bike year around and also washed it down a couple times with the hose Next part is to remove the caliper mounting plate.. also wont budge!! Wahoo

Yes sir.. I have it done along with the manual.. I believe that it has corroded on as the full sprocket should slide off and the axle should slide out!

Ok guys.. the chin adjuster seized so I decided to take I apart.. Took off the exhaust, broke the axle nut (with some great force and effort), removed the brake caliper and then I was stuck... The sprocket would not come off.. Using a piece of wood and a lump hammer (and a few days soak with penetrating wd40) and a few wacks eventually the sprocket came off.. wahoo! The unfortunate part is I am now stuck here.. I got a bigger wood and a bigger hammer and have given the axle a few more belts but nothing.. not a budge. Iam stumped.. any suggestions?

Just an update! I have not taken the forks apart just yet.. I have adjusted the sag both front and back and went on a short spin. This has changed handling in corners abit. Only problem is I have full preload on the front and the sag is not low enough (37mm) but pretty close. Will look into proper linear springs for my weight. Then I’ll service the forks! I found these guys here a a potential option for a rear shock. Any experience? https://shock-factory.fr/fr/content/9-amortisseur-m-shock-2

Yes sir. Appreciate your patience. I’ve found the genuine seals €30 a set.. can find 10w fork oil €10 here handy so may give it a go sure! All I need now is pvc piping and a syringe haha. What pvc piping did you use.. have a picture of that?

Thanks guys. Ok, the most complicated part of this job seems to be sourcing all of the parts. The forks may need a servicing and they may also need fresh springs to suit my weight. From what I understand is the stock springs are suited to a 155lb rider. I’m around 180 without gear. I’ve spoken to a specialist here in Ireland and have done some calculations in regards to the title of this thread. Firstly, if I were to go with DMR in America and have it shipped it would cost 800 euro for the shock and 600 for the forks which would still need servicing (new seals, oil etc) totalling 1400 euros plus service (not sure of the cost) The specialists recommended a wilbers (640 i believe) rear shock for 580 euros and wilbers progressive springs for the front for 160 euros. Totalling 740 euros plus service (not sure of the cost) which i may be able to get them to do if I also get them to fit the shocks. What I was thinking is; ordering DMR rear shock =800 euros and wilbers progressive springs for the front =160 euros plus the price of service and fitting =960+?? What are you’re thoughts and opinions on this. Would the difference between wilbers rear shock and DMR rear shock be worth the 240 euros extra?

Ok. My question is then.. how do i find the OEM fork manufacturer!

Would this be what I’m looking for?- https://www.wemoto.ie/bikes/honda/vfr_800_fi-1/01/picture/fork_repair_kit_-_slinky_glide Would this be unnecessary - https://www.ebay.co.uk/c/1574495947 thanks. I might see about an aftermarket spring perhaps.

This thread didn’t load the first time around Magneto, thanks! I am going to look at the nr4 shock and see what those guys at Maxton say. I know its UK but I believe if items are made in the UK they may not be subject to some form of tax (i could be wrong)

Exactly! Ok.. I imagine i should give a go at the basic service before adjusting the weight. Perhaps a job for the mechanics so I can observe how its done.. at least the first time around!

Thats awesome! How do you find it works when riding two up? Thats an awesome collection you have!

Good point! I have 24.5k miles currently. Good idea. I have never done this before. Will check the manual. Exactly what gap am i checking? Also am currently looking into this. From what i understand the springs in the stock are for a relatively light rider. I’m not exactly heavy but 180ish in the buff. Appreciate the response Thumbs. Unfortunately due to brexit I would be warranted to pay 21% for postage both ways for a rebuild. I will check those units out you’ve mentioned!

Hello guys from Ireland ! I have been considering upgrading my suspension and even the forks. The roads here are bumpy and the ride on country roads is not comfortable, either solo or two up! The bike is all stock. Daugherty motor sports is the recommended go too guy and I have spoken to him. Very helpful! The question for me is if anyone has any experience with a rebuild or upgrade that can be done in Europe? The pricing is currently out of my budget plus I’m not sure how upgrading will effect insurance policy (again, any experience do let me know!) Also shipping from USA to eu... 21%ish on top i believe.. ouch! (I could be wrong.. feel free to correct me!) I am planning on keeping this bike for the foreseeable future and intend on riding it. Daily commutes (after restrictions), touring and two up riding. Thankyou

What is this? I haven't a clue!

https://m.louis.ie/artikel/electronic-flasher-unit-2-poles-fuer-honda-vfr-800-fi/10032271?list=a2693496b86112e5eb54afb3583e1f8c&filter_bike_id=0848 is this one suitable would you say? Here in Ireland! I have took the housing apart, gave it a spray down with electric contact cleaner, cleaned it with a q tip and a spray of wd40.. nothing changed unfortunately! Only difference is I have difficulty getting the back screw back in 😂

This. I discovered that it only happens if I leave the Killswitch on when the bike is off. If I leave the Killswitch on and flip it off before turning the bike on there is a delay.. and If I flip the Killswitch after turning the bike off then it starts without the delay Hope that makes sense

How do I go about this? Will try this out!

Hello guys, back again with another issue! Really getting to learn this bike... 01 fifth gen with indicator issues. I noticed they work fine when the weather is warm but when it's cold there is a delay between pushing the indicator and the flashing of the lights. Something I have noticed is the delay happens only when I go from indicating left to indicating right. For example if I indicate left there will be an initial delay and then after canceling it if I indicate left there would not be a delay but there would be if I were to indicate right. I checked the wires. There was a loose connection to the backlight which I fixed when I got the bike but did not resolve the issue. Fuses look good, battery is good and there's a new R/R unit on her. Looked at posts of similar issues and haven't found a solution not anyone mentioning this unilateral delay

Took it for a few shpins.. It has been behaving just fine and battery is maintaining the charge! I am still having the issue of a delay in the indicators. There is also a delay between turning the key on and being able to start the engine. Both seem to only happen when it's not warm out and both are intermittent. These must be a separate issue!

Thanks for your patience! The technique was appropriate but the meter... I used my neighbours and the reading I got seem more appropriate So battery voltage was 13.3-13.5 at idle.. 14.5 at 5000rpm The stator was 15-17 at idle and 55ish at 5000rpm for each of the pins.

I got a steady 5.92-5.96volts over all pin to pins I have got the new rectifier and have tested the battery voltage again. It's now around: 13 with engine off 14-14.5 idle 10-11 at 5000rpm. Bike sounds healthier with new r/r.. not sure if that's normal but I know the volts at 5000rpms are low!

Ok I done this! Pin to pin came back 0.2ohms just as before and for the ground to pins I got no reading whatsoever. So stator is good! Double checked the R/R and still, just as before there is back flow from one of the diodes! Ordered the piece. Should be here by Monday and I’ll be good to go hopefully. Could a faulty R/R also be causing the delays on my indicators? Thanks again for the help guys!