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ProMed

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Posts posted by ProMed

  1. The rear at 5 is not maxed out, max is 7.

    Mine must be set at 7 then, I maxxed it out after one ride on the bike.

    I'm just saying that unless your a professional racer spending money on suspension isnt going to make anyone a faster or better rider.

    It has nothing to do with the speed of the rider, correct suspension settings will only make for a safer, more stable and comfortable bike... I personally didn't enjoy the nose dives when squeezing on the binders or the wallowing when settling into a turn. It seems you would understand this from the night and day difference you felt on the CBR1K.

    With my weight the sag should be way off and there shouldnt be enough rebound and compression dampening! If that is true why am I just as fast or faster than everyone else?

    It is true, your sag is way off at 200+ lbs, the tape measure doesn't lie! Hopefully you will lining up on the grid for the Moto GP at Laguna Seca if you are as fast as you say... I hear there is a ton of money to be made!

    Again I'm just saying that in my opinion the VFR's suspension is better than adequate for any riding except possibly a very advanced rider at the track!

    I will agree that it is adequate stock, but that it also can be made more than adequate for a 200+ rider with just a few quick adjustments and small amount of money. This thread is titled "Low-Budget Fixes". smile.gif

  2. With so many posts about suspension it makes me think there must be alot of you that are track riding alot. I am 6'4" 220 pounds. I increased my front preload halfway from standard setting to full hard. I changed the rear preload from 2 (standard) to 5, and the rear rebound closer to hard. In my opinion this helped alot. I didnt think the suspension was bad before but did notice the improvement. 

    I either pass or leave behind 9 out of 10 riders on bikes that are faster and handle better than my 02 VFR.

    I am 6'1" 215 and recently put the 1.0 Race Tech springs in the forks, then raised the oil level a little. My rear preload is maxed at 5 as well. I also dropped the forks 8mm.

    Huge difference for very little money. I didn't realize how bad it was until feeling it now. Of course this makes me want to upgrade even more.... the rear shock is next on the list. Your sag should be pretty far off with the stock springs at 220#. With the right setup it sounds like you could be passing 10 of 10 riders!

  3. When I checked Axman's 6th Gen, his fork tube height was 44mm [actually, one was 44, the other was 44.5!!], and his was never modified, as far as he knows.  He bought the bike new.

    When I set my 5th Gens's height, it was at 44mm.  My Clymer manual sez 39mm, but I think it's generally agreed that is wrong. I then raised the tubes to 49mm, from the cap flat to the top of the triple.

    My manual says 41mm, never heard or read of a 6th gen coming stock with 44mm. There has been many threads on this subject over at http://www.bikersoracle.com/vfr/

    It seems the 5th gen was first listed with a stock of 39mm and and then it was later bumped to 44mm in the manuals.

    gallery_3942_1316_13613.jpg border='0' alt='user posted image' />

    6th gen fork height

    gallery_3942_1316_26540.jpg border='0' alt='user posted image' />

    5th gen fork height

  4. Stock on a 6th gen is 41mm. For the 5th gen, depending on which manual you have it is either listed as 39mm or 44mm. 44mm is the most recent oem setting. On my 02 I have bumped it up to 49mm, which is an 8mm change, and have loved how it now handles for the last month. I am running 1.0 Race Tech springs with the 6th gen stock 10wt fork oil set just a little lower than the stock volume. Without the drop the stiffer forks were rather harsh, after the drop it smoothed everything out. I am 6' 215.

    I am also using the gen-mar risers, but without the cap. Certainly check out Rogue's spacers, they are very nice.

    +1.gif on the Canyon Dancers.

    Hope this helps!

    Paul

    Tim,

    Yes and no regarding your concerns.? You can raise the fork tubes in your triple clamps a maximum of 5 mm.? Any more, and the bike begins to act "nervous".? I have raised my tubes 5mm (from 44 to 49mm, total from flat cap surface to top of triple) and the bike responded beautifully.? This has nothing at all to do with the risers.

    Now, raising the tube 5mm does indeed give the risers another 5mm to clamp on to, which is a good thing.? But (however!) this is not necessary for safetyl? The Gens or the Rogues still give plenty of bite on the tube.? And, the design has tabs....just like the clip-on itself....that prevent forward rotation of the bars due to hard stopping/weight on the wrists/etc.?? No worries there.?

    So....what you should do it raise your tubes 5 mm in the clamps.? Yes, this lowers your bike 5mm at the bottom of the fairings, but this hardly constitues a "lowrider" stance!? The improvement to the bike's nimbleness will be astounding.? But don't go any further than 49mm, or headshake/instability might result.?? Mind you, lowering the bike/raising the tubes DOES NOT change your riding position, except maybe the fact that your seat is now "leaning forward" a teeny-weeny smidgen due to the lowering, but essentially, the geometry stays the same.? Ths is a hard concept to get your head around...and it's been argued here plenty of times.? Fact is....nothing really changes except your turn-in handling....for the better.

    Lowering your front end (by raising the tubes) has the same effect as slightly shimming the shock to raise the rear.?? Some guys do a little bit at each end to kinda offset big changes at only one end.? Either way, the result decreases fork rake angle, which increases the bikes nimbleness.? There's lots of posts about that subject here.

    Then, if you want, add the risers.? Seat the riser fully on the top surface of the triple, and then seat the bar fully on the riser.? Before tightening the clamp bolts, gently push each bar "out" against those tabs I mentioned, so that there is no chance for any forward movement, ever.?? The whole thing it perfectly safe and sturdy.? You won't snatch the bar off the tube or have any other problems like that unless you are one very large, very strong dude.? The clip-on clamps will do their job, believe me.

  5. REAR SUSPENSION:

    Mod:  Increase rear ride height by shimming under top shock mount

    Benefits:  Improved handling due to steeper head angle, reduced trail, increased cornering clearance

    How to:  Add approximately 4mm of shims under top shock mount to raise ride height ~12mm.

    Time: 

    Cost:  $0

    Permanance:  Completely reversible.

    Could anyone help me find anymore information regarding this mod of shimming the top shock mount? My searches are coming up empty...

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