kaldek

I was going to post this as an appendix to an existing "How to replace your thermostat" thread, but there doesn't appear to be one!

Ah well, enjoy.

Hi there kaldek and others, am going do this but was just wondering if one the us keys will work ? link below

http://www.ebay.com....=item564030318d

They will only work if there is a space for the transponder. I have a spare eight transponders mate so you're welcome to a couple of them for a few bucks.

Bear in mind this key is a true blank and you will have to pay to have it cut. If you use the guys I did in the UK they can cut the key based on a high-res photo of the original. I got two keys cut and delivered for $38 AUD in total, and then I just put the transponders in myself.

Here's the link to the guys in the UK:

http://www.ebay.com....#ht_1573wt_1396

You could also contact them directly. The business website is http://keysinthepost.com. I have no complaints and they were extremely helpful when I discovered I needed to buy some transponders.

Righto those new chips worked a charm! I now have a spare 8 transponders for anyone who wants some. I have a YouTube video showing the process as written up by zRoYz being uploaded right now too.

The '06 and newer bikes still have a weak 30-amp connector, just beefier wiring than the earlier bikes. Essentially there's a wiring connector (one potential source of resistance), followed shortly by a non weather-proof fuse holder (another potential source of resistance). This whole area can corrode, which causes resistance. Resistance causes heat, which can make the fuse holder, wires, and fuse itself overheat and melt. When this happens, you can get heat-induced circuit breaks where the bike will just trip out on you suddenly and then power will come back. This is common behaviour for a high resistance connection.

Anyway, this isn't likely to be your cause of poor charging. You need to hook a voltmeter up to the bike while its running - most likely your regulator or stator is dead or on the way out. What stator tests did you perform? The only valid test is the one where you check the AC voltage with the bike running.

As always, follow the Electrosport fault finding diagram. It is THE source for finding charging issues.

http://www.electrosp...ing-diagram.pdf

Hey folks I found a source for the transponder chips and have ordered a batch of ten for $38 AUD. Only 90% sure they'll work for now but when they arrive I will let you know. The chips are marked as "ID46" transponders, pre-coded to Honda. These chips look to be used by many manufacturers and they need to be pre-coded to that manufacturer or it won't work.

Here's the link:

http://www.auobd2.co...cs-lot-164.html

Try swapping motors - once you've done that, changing the air filter is something you do with your eyes closed. Man, the number of times I've had the airbox off my bike....

OK, so that didn't work. My two spare keys arrived today and I put my existing transponders in them. When programming the keys, the HISS light flashed like so:

• Short Flash
  
• Short Flash
  
• Long Flash
  
• Pause
  
• Long Flash
  

It did this for both of the old transponders in the new keys. After removing the ghetto lead, the new keys did not work. It seems to say on other forums that the programming phase actually DOES write to the key's memory with the ECU's unique password. Ergo, it looks like only blank transponders will work unless there is a way an existing transponder can be overwritten.

Looks like the keys that come with chips in them may me the only viable solution?

That wax unit is definitely stuffed - it doesn't seem to be doing much of anything really! Rode to work and back for the first time today (55 mile round trip) and had no problems.

Something else interesting though is that using my existing thermostat in the new motor the ECT reports 82 degrees C running temp rather than 76 degrees on the old motor. Only difference is I'm running only water at the moment which I'll flush out and replace with coolant once I fix the wax unit.

I had 1 issue though, the idle would not adjust during the starter valve adjustment procedure. Anyone have this problem? The idle would adjust fine once everything was connected and put back together but would not with the MAP, vacuum hoses, air box disconnected. Thoughts??

Never seen that before. When you were adjusting the screw could you see the pistons moving at all, or even the idle adjustment plate move?

Alrighty, a cold start test has just shown that by replacing the thermostat I've cured the excessive richness at startup. Yay me!

I think the fast idle wax unit might be a bit weak though, as while it runs OK the idle is too low when cold - holding open the idle valves improves it so I do believe the problem is around that area. Maybe there's some air in the lines still. Easy enough to test and clean thankfully.

Thats no small job.

You must know these things inside out by now.

I'm at the point where unless you ask me to split the crankcases, I kinda shrug my shoulders and get into it.

Wow, I just pulled a VERY stuck-open thermostat out of the new motor. I mean it was WIDE open; no wonder the motor was a bag of spanners on cold start - the ECT probably saw a decreasing temperature as soon as the engine was spinning and adjusted fuel mixture to "suit". Which of course was wrong and just caused the motor to stall (and stink out the garage with the smell of fuel).

Now THAT'S a stuck open thermostat

This all happened somewhere around the time I removed the old coolant. What is it with VFRs and stuck thermos?

In general though, you gotta love EFI systems which are all super-smart but can't detect things like leaking fuel pressure regulators, and stuck-open thermostats when the intake air temperature has no correlation to it. My kingdom for an OBD-II compliant ECU!

Are you sure it isn't a hydraulic chain adjuster for the cam chain? A lifter tick would be a scary thing since wear would cause the clearance to shrink, not grow, so they 'tighten up' with mileage.

Heck, it could well be the CCTs. Oh wait I just happen to have an almost new set in that engine sitting over there in the corner. WIN!

Having felt a little better today, I did go out to the garage to take a peek at the bike. Cold starting was shite - really rough idle and easy stalling so I pulled the plugs and they were black. Now I've never had that issue on my bike so I swapped out the injectors from mine. Took her for a good hard ride and couldn't really fault it; even pulled the plugs again and they were the good colour with all deposits burned off.

However, it's definitely got a slight tick from one of the valve buckets. Since I'm in no mood to go tearing it down for a while, how long do you folks think I can leave it before tackling valve clearances. I'd hazard a guess and say it's never had its valve clearances checked - it's 10 thousand k's over spec at the moment which is nothing as far as I'm concerned. I know BR has never had his checked but then maybe he's deaf or likes ticking noises?

Diagnosis: Tonsilitis, acquired from my 6 year old. Now on Penicillin. Huzzaaahhhhhhhh....

Yeah but although Kaldek could have gotten it titled, he would have had to pay a bunch of money in fees to have it done, so he went the other way. Now he has a clean title for basically a 2006 with 2002 frame and bodywork.

It's probably cost me more in the long run though. I really ran myself into the ground getting it done, and now have the virus to end all viruses. Have hardly slept, my hips ache, can barely swallow and have a fever which has been coming and going since Monday. Off to the docs in 20 minutes but I'll end up taking the whole week off.

Is this what we call a healty persuit of undiscovered HP, or just the first signs of un- treatable boredom?

Please educate me further :)

Hey man, everybody loves farkles. In ranger's case (and mine) though, I think we're at serious risk of contracting O.F.

OVER FARKLING.

Well I ordered some pre-cut keys without chips from the UK, based on a high-res picture of my 2006 key. They confirmed for me that the chips are not epoxied in, just siliconed in and so they pop right out!

Grand total for two cut keys was 38 Aussie dollars - shipped. Since I already have two spare keys from my '02 bike I'll just pop the chips out of them.

Sent you pm about duct tail, might have been lost with forum update the other day.

Nah I got it, just been too sick to respond. How does $80 plus shipping sound?

What was it - about 2 weeks from locating the donor bike to having it complete? Well done!

Nine days. It was a bad idea, because on Sunday evening I crashed and came down with a terrible virus. I think I was holding up until the job was done.

I keep poking my head into the garage and wanting to tidy up in there but I basically haven't slept much in the last 48 hours. The upshot was that I was awake (4am) to watch the Indy GP!

My bike before teardown

New '06 stripped-right

New '06 stripped-left

New bike ready for the motor to drop out

New bike still waiting for the motor to be dropped

I toyed with the idea of using the jack for a while

My bike ready for the motor to drop

New motor, old frame. Soon to be together!

All done?

Anyone want a chopper?

My poor Motad's couldn't be used for now.

Parts, anyone?

Plenty of spares forever more...

What to do with the old motor?

For sale!

Way to go ! YOu have fortitude my man - good job!!

I know. I'm like a dog with a bone sometimes.

The person who deserves the most kudos is my wife Melissa, for putting up with me in the garage all day last Saturday, most of Sunday, every evening since then, all of yesterday, all of last night and half of today. I have three young children all under seven and a full time job. They're happy, but I feel bad for abandoning them.

It's done. I've ridden it, and she's OK. Mentally, I'm shattered. In 9 days of my free time I have completely disassembled two VFR800s and built one back up with all the electrics and mechanicals (swingarm included) of the new one.

The new motor has a much better clutch - I've had to adjust my lever out for the first time in four years. It may also have a stuck open thermostat - not fully sure about that yet as it's a warm day.

you gonna have a VTEC yard sale afterwards???

Hells yeah. There's the new fuel tank, the ECU and keys from the old bike, a whole bunch of stuff to hit eBay. Roy already claimed the ducktail too.