kaldek

Tank pad & corbin are for touring, standard seat solo cowl has also been resprayed black.

The R1 forks are specials as I do work for a suspension tuner (he does the valving etc, I strip out the shocks forks etc when he needs a hand) the valving is nothing like standard R1 valving & has been specifically designed for road use as I'm the test monkey.

I'm a blue freak sorry all my cars are blue, well even my new tool box that was my xmas gift to myself.

Hey rock on brother! Blue oval all the way - love that toolbox mate it must have cost a fortune. I sure hope you own the accompanying BF or BA series FPV, XR8, or XR6 turbo as well! Personally I have a BFII XR6T which is just the ducks guts.

I know you are planning on a 98 + kit but I am hesitant about slapping on a kit designed for a 5th gen bike onto a VTEC setup. Will there be a 6th Gen test bike to make sure this will work? I am not the expert here but I do know that fuel mapping is VERY important in forced air setups.

I'm pretty sure a PowerCommander is a requirement for this setup, for various reasons:

- Bigger injectors

- Bigger fuel pump (as I recall)

- An airflow that the stock ECU map would probably have no calculation for

The biggest problem I see with the 6th-gen will be VTEC itself. Forced induction removes any of the so-called benefits of two-valves and better combustion swirl, so it would be best to switch the bike back to non-VTEC. This could be done either mechanically or electrically via a circuit which forces the oil solenoid on all the time. I'd prefer a mechanical solution personally, by replacing the VTEC valve componentry with the components (buckets & shims) from the other valves. Someone needs to make a project of it (until I have a spare bike, it's not likely to be me!).

I have an 02 vfr all stock and at the last track day I noticed a surge or hesitation while in 2nd gear between 9500 -10000 rpm. Last weekend on the street in the twisties I noticed the same problem at exactly the same rpm's and while in 2nd gear. Shift to third and it goes away.

I've had that problem on my '02 once or twice too: 2nd gear - Wide Open Throttle and high revs. The engine appeared to cut out for a heartbeat and then come back. This was way back in 2002, and it's never done it since.

My bike does the same thing, really bad when its hot and im in traffic thats moving slow, 10-40mph and in 1, 2, 3gears my bike has always did this and is stock. i just removed the 02sensors and it ran great for a few days, then today in town it was acting up really bad, makes me nerves to ride it. It will also do this at highway speeds, feels like its slowing down so you give it more throttle but nothing happens then a little more and all the sudden it jumps forward.

This is the exact behaviour my '02 exhibits. You give it a little and there is nothing, you give it some more and then suddenly the power appears in an instant.

Somebody mentioned stuck fast wax idle units. I so wish I had a wideband O2 sensor in my pocket all the time so I could just stick the fecker down the exhaust pipe and see if it's running lean, or rich!

OK, I performed the monitor wire and front harness ground bypass mod this afternoon. The monitor wire mod did buy me a few tenths of a volt but the voltage drop still occurs with the high beams and cooling fan running. At 2000 RPM it drops from 14.3 to 13.7 with both running and the grips powered. This is very acceptable so I'm not going to fret the drop. Dunno why it behaves differently than Jeremy's (and I don't care as long as it isn't discharging.) :goofy:

I would suggest that a voltage of 13.7 with all those things pulling juice is a VERY good result. You would find that it can't maintain over 14 volts since at those revolutions the stator can't pump out enough to keep the volts up that high. 13.7 is still charging the battery - so this is excellent. As for myself, my charging system can't reach 12.6 volts at idle when the engine is hot, and I think it's the stator. At all other conditions (higher revs, or cold engine at idle), mine hits 14.3 volts.

I've got no idea what the frame slider actually saved.  Its hard to imagine the right side of the bike having any further damage without the frame slider installed.

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I guess that impact exceeded the shear strength of the bolt. It's 12.9 tensile strength steel so it's designed to bend rather than snap clean off.

Is it possible the slider dug into a hole/bump on the road and was asked to deal with 200kg of motorcycle sliding at 60km/h? I reckon that would snap off a lot of stuff!

I think Nathan rides his bike (2005 SV650) just because it's economical. Talking to him about bikes is just like talking to someone who doesn't understand what motorcycling is all about...

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Gah!! I hate that! There's a guy I work with who has a 2 hour drive from his house to the client we're both working at - and bitches about it constantly when he owns a Ducati 998 and could do the trip in 40 minutes!

I constantly berate him about his lack of riding but he complains that it's really inconvenient to put his motorbike gear on and off. Bloody cafe racers, the lot of 'em!

P.S. My first child is a boy and he absolutely loves the bike. Sits on it and goes "rarr! rarr!". So cute!

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He can't walk yet, but already wants to ride!

http://www.thefastenerwarehouse.com/catalo...361/2509109.htm

100pc bag $23 shipped.

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Suh-weet! This is one of the reasons I wish I lived in the USA - awesome cheap stuff everywhere. Here, I have to contend with businesses run by hairy bikers who sound like they're inbred. And if you want it from the USA - wait 10-14 days and hope customs doesn't get you.

Our roads are twistier though, and we have more of 'em.

Did that too. Tore it off. (easily). D-oh. Wasn't gonna chance it. (That's just me). All C.A., now! Seems fine, need lots more ride time, to be certain.

Watch your mail, week after next, Bone.  :beer:  LOL.

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I did mine with basic household silicon sealant, and it's been fine for ages now. Maybe my bike vibrates less than yours. Gasp - you must have a camchain problem/piston slap/evil gremlin/Harley Engine on your bike!

Kaldek

Right. I've fitted my replacement fuseblock tonight and encountered no problems. I'm not sure what other people have done but I used the existing Red/Yellow wire from the battery and spliced that into the wire provided with the fuse block. I could not remove the wires from the connector that connects to the ECM (and other electrical subsystems), so I just cut it out and directly spliced this wire into the fuse block as well.

I'll have to attack it later with some connectors (and sometime other than a weeknight!) and tidy the job up.

As for symptoms, my bike was cutting out whilst riding, and it started happening yesterday afternoon on the way home from work. No EFI fault codes lit up because the symptoms were of the EFI system losing power completely, then coming back. If I stopped the engine would idle at very low revs then stall unless I gave it some gas. My existing 30-amp fuse block was yellowed, with burn marks in places. The lead from the fuseblock into the connector (to the ECM/front of the bike) was extremely stiff and brittle, and so was its sheath. Today when I managed to get to work I noticed that this fuseblock was extremely hot. My fuse was also partially melted.

My only concern now is whether I have fixed the problem or merely moved it from one location to another. I hope that the old fuseblock wasn't acting as the pressure release point in the system - and now some other weak part will now suffer?

Kaldek

30 AMp fuse with 10 guage wire:

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Hey Ken, that's the exact same fuse block I bought today from "Autobarn" here in Australia. I think it was "Narva" brand.

I'm curious how you ran your wiring though. The Narva fuse block has two short wires coming off it - did you solder joint these to longer wires?

Kaldek

Trace has been trying in vain to get Motovation's help developing a kit for the 5th gen, but they blew him off oh so harshly, so we're gonna do it on our own. We need some info, though, if one of you fairing-drilling maniacs would be willing to grab a ruler...

How long is Motovation's 6th gen slider (6" plus would be good, as with many things in life :P )? And what is the diameter of the machined insert that fits the recess in the frame?

Also, if you know anyone who has these for an RC51, it would be good to have the same info for it.

Thanks in advance!

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I have a complete spare set of sliders for a 6th-gen. My bet is that they will just fit straight onto a 5th gen. I will measure them up for you, but I'd say they are at least 6", plus the smaller diameter bit that slots into the bolt recess.

Kaldek

I found a nice little power source and ground coming off of the bank angle/engine shutoff/tilt sensor thingo.

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Indeed! I just used this very same power source to feed my SmarTire pressure monitoring system, which I'll be writing a HowTo on very shortly. I was lazy and sliced off the insulation before splicing into the wires, whereas I should have just put some money into some 3M ScotchLok splice connectors which do all the work for you just by clipping them over the wire.

Kaldek

B) I hope no one  "needs" sliders, but as one who has used them, I offer a few bits for thought. I had rear engine bolt located sliders on my 97, plus bar ends and buttons on the passenger peg brackets. I slid out on the track at 40 or so and as long as sliding was going on there were no problems. When the bike hit the grass though, the frame slider dug in and  flipped the bike violently onto the other side, smashing a great deal more plastic than any slide would have done alone.

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I see your point. Then again, there's so much stuff on the side of a VFR that could dig in and flip it,a nd it also depends whether it digs in with the "top" of the bike facing in the direction of the slide or the wheels are travelling in that direction. In the latter case the bike would just stop. It's only the former case where the bike would flip.

Anyway I consider the footpegs, bars, centre and side stand as all likely flipper culprits.

Kaldek

Why would anyone want to use a slider that has to bolted to a bracket? Where is the strength in that? Where is your protection? The bracket is just going to bend as soon as the bike hits the ground. Sounds and looks like the Motivation sliders are purely cosmentic and perhaps only good in a no speed tip over in the driveway.

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Wow are you smoking weed or something? There must be about 15 pics in this thread which show the Motovation sliders bolting to the engine via 6 inch bolts with a 12.9 tensile strength.

The Motovation sliders do not bolt to any brackets. They bolt directly to the engine and frame and are extremely strong. The bolts are specifically designed to bend rather than snap under extreme pressure.

The only mention in this entire thread about brackets was referring to the bracke that the EVAP purge cannister solenoid uses. It sits right where the frame sliders need to go, so Das Bone made up a new bracket for the solenoid.

Kaldek

No, with the MV's you do not have to remove the sliders to remove the fairings.

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That's odd, because I find it rather tricky to get the fairing off without removing the sliders first. I suppose that's because of the way I remove them - I remove all the bolts and then lift the fairing away from the frame while pulling backwards gently to unlock it from the clips at the front.

Kaldek

I had an empty model engine fuel jug laying around. its made of thick plastic, approx 1mm thick. i actually cut out a piece from the side of the jug, so there is a seam when installed. i placed the seam under one of the edges that is created by cutting the hole in the tank and sealed it well.

any plastic gallon jug should work except for milk jugs.

good luck!

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Mate, that is a really nice and clean install job. Makes mine look like crap! You must have a steady eye my friend. :beer:

Kaldek

does the motovation instructions list a torque value for the bolts?

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Kaldek

Damn, that's some impressive work. I wish I'd spent my youth actually working with machine tools because I'm quite nifty with the mechanical stuff, but don't have the background I guess I need to get to this level.

Although if I'd gone into a workshop/engineering career I wouldn't have met my lovely wife and have such a great family life. Can't go tugging at those loose strings in the ball of twine that is your life!

Kaldek

I used the blue painters tape to completely cover the outside of the fairing in the area to be drilled for safety reasons.

I actually did this, but was lucky that the scratches were on the bit of fairing I was just about to drill out. :huh:

Kaldek

Hmmmm ... Kaldek I honestly thought that it is the right side bolt that is the longer one. But then again it could be another case of old age short term memory loss. Anyway, they are definately different lengths & you'll work out which one fits where easily enough.

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Kaldek

Question for those that bought the Motovation kit for 02+ VFR.  Did you have two different length bolts in the kit.

I got mine several days ago and have two different length bolts.  Just wanted to confirm before I go through the installation and realize I have to get other parts and drive around with holes in my fairing.

Kaldek, thanks for the photo write up.  It's especially welcome since we lost Das Bone's from the database.

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Honestly, Motovation USA really need to state this on their website because I think a few people have asked them this question repeatedly!

Kaldek

I had 2 50km/hr+ & 80km/hr+ low skid on my vtec with the motovation sliders.

Luckily I was without my panniers.

The damages I had were:

Scratched LHS head cowling and side cowling.

Scratched front brake lever.

Bent rear brake pedal.

Slider mounting screw was bent.

I think a quarter of the slider was gone.

Surprisingly mirror, bar-end and tank were not affected.

The main impart were on the slider and head cowling.

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I suppose as long as the tank isn't damaged that takes a lot of the worry out, but then 80km/h is pretty fast and I'd expect to see major damage regardless at that speed.

I thought there was an option to purchase a smaller coolant bottle with these sliders? No? Was it some other companies sliders?

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Kaldek

I fitted mine about 2 months ago and boy I am sure glad I did since I dropped it about 2 weeks later while waiting at some lights (I had dropped it a number of times before fitting the sliders but always got away with minimum damage).

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Kaldek

Just use a straight edge of some sort to draw a few diagonals to find the centre & then drill a small pilot hole.

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By the way, did you use anything to seal the inside of the hole where the paint meeds the bare plastic? I'm a bit concerned that over time the paint will start to peel away because it finishes at a hard edge rather than wrapping around?

Kaldek